1996 Explorer Power Windows not working.

I just purchased a 1996 Explorer XLT with a 4.0 L engine. None of the Power windows work. I checked the fuses in the power distribution box and all are OK. I swapped the Accessory Delay relay and there was no change. I opened up the LH door panel and the connections seem good. I understand that the GEM is involved. What wire(s) can I probe at the GEM to see if voltage is going out? Thanks.

Have you checked to see if there is current to the master switch? If current is getting to the switch and none coming out, replace the switch. Start diagnosis with the easiest first.

way2old, Thanks for the quick response. I assume the master switch is on the drivers door? Are you saying that voltage going back out feeds the other doors window switches? Also the drivers door lock switch only works in the down position. Not sure if there is a common cause. Bob

Yes. The drivers switch feeds all the other switches. If you have a test light, test to see if current is coming in and that it goes out to the others when the switch is moved up or down. Go to www.fleet.ford.com and go to maintenance, owners manual and enter info. Download manual and go to roadside emergencies. There are diagrams of the fuse panels and tells what each one is for. Look for power windows and locks. There are relays that work them.

OK I will check for voltage at the switch and also look at the fuse chart. Thanks again.

To WAY2TOLD, Sorry I am WAY2LATE in getting back to you. It has been WAY2COLD to work on this problem until now. Anyway, I confirmed that there was no voltage going to the window switch panel. I found the input wire and jumpered 12V to it and the windows worked. The Accessory Delay Relay normally provides the 12V to the power window switch panel and the relay is picking. I have 12V on 2 of the terminals with the relay removed. A continuity test on the transfer contact shows good continuity. I may have a loose connection somewhere or maybe I am back to the GEM module. I plan on running a wire from another circuit to the window switch panel. Temporarily I used the power mirror feed but that fuse will blow after a while since it is only protected by a 7.5 AMP fuse. I will poke around to see if there is 12V somewhere else in the door so I do not have to run another wire. Maybe the power door lock circuit will do. A lot cheaper than buying a GEM.

Before you condemn the GEM, check the wiring joint in the door jamb. I've seen wire connections break in those blocks before.

-Rod

Rod, Eureka!!!!! I pulled back the boot at the door hinge and out pops the LT B/BK wire that must have been previously repaired with a crimp connector that did not hold. I'm going to solder in a splice. Thanks for the tip!

Bob

Congrats on the find, and thank you for the follow-up post!

-Rod

I have a 96 explorer and the windows just stopped working they only work when just the ignition is on and the engine is not started , once the engine starts the windows stop working I changed the accy delay switch , no luck.

any Ideas?

Do they work when the key is in "Run" without the engine running? This would be the same position that the key would be in once the engine is started. If so, this may indicate an issue with the ignition switch.

-Rod

Well, thanks to this thread the windows on my 96 are working again!! The windows became intermittent several months ago, but I found out that opening and shutting the door several times would usually get them working again so I knew I had a short. Then yesterday they stopped working completely.

I pulled the boot back today and sure enough the blue/black wire was broken along with a couple smaller ones. (which explains why the power mirrors don't work and the doors won't lock from this door)

thanks shorod! same problem as bob mayo and phipps. blue/black wire broken. would sure love to know how to splice back(what size splice,etc.)love the forum,so educational and money saving! thanks again.

If you're good with a soldering iron, I'd suggest you solder the broken wire, insert a short jumper length if necessary. If you really want a lasting repair, insulate the soldered repair with adhesive-lined shrink sleeving as well.

-Rod

this post may be 3 years old, but it solve my window problem along with the right side power mirror. Installed a jumper, soldered, taped and shrink tubed the connections. The daughter is happy she can open the windows after a long winter w/o windows. Thanks Again for the post.