97 Astro Van stalling and sometimes restarting
chadcraigsmith
12-19-2007, 05:23 PM
Hi, I have a 97 Chevy Astro van with 180,000 km on it V6 engine.
Current scenario and occurrances
1. Cold winter night climbing a hill and the van loses power, surges again then stalls and dies on the side of the road. Cranks but won't start. Added 2 bottles of gas line anti-freeze and get towed home.
2. 1 day later added 20 Litres of gas (Now have almost 3/4 tank of gas + 1 more gas line anti-freeze
3. Took off the dog house and tried again and it started!
4. Next day it wasn't starting again. Took off distributer cap and cleaned and sanded the contacts, still doesn't start.
5. Took to a garage where they scanned it and suggested it was the fuel pump.
6. Did a tune up (replaced the spark plugs, distributor and wires), replaced the fuel filter and it started again and seemed to run well on the highway. Didn't replace the fuel pump.
7. Took home and ran for 2 days no problem
8. On highway coming home and it stalled again. Restarted and went for 1 km, stalls again. Restart and go 100 m and stalls again and won't restart.:banghead:
9. Towed back to shop. When Tow truck dropped it off, it started ok.
10. Wasn't starting next morning. Replaced the ignition module and thought it was working again. Backed it o ut to the parking lot and it stalled again.
11 Mechanic not sure what could be the problem.:shakehead
Q. Should I go ahead and replace the fuel pump? I've seen threads on this forum that said they replaced the fuel pump but saw no difference. Trying to decide whether to have the fuel pump replaced ($1000 job), or whether there is anything else I can try?
Current scenario and occurrances
1. Cold winter night climbing a hill and the van loses power, surges again then stalls and dies on the side of the road. Cranks but won't start. Added 2 bottles of gas line anti-freeze and get towed home.
2. 1 day later added 20 Litres of gas (Now have almost 3/4 tank of gas + 1 more gas line anti-freeze
3. Took off the dog house and tried again and it started!
4. Next day it wasn't starting again. Took off distributer cap and cleaned and sanded the contacts, still doesn't start.
5. Took to a garage where they scanned it and suggested it was the fuel pump.
6. Did a tune up (replaced the spark plugs, distributor and wires), replaced the fuel filter and it started again and seemed to run well on the highway. Didn't replace the fuel pump.
7. Took home and ran for 2 days no problem
8. On highway coming home and it stalled again. Restarted and went for 1 km, stalls again. Restart and go 100 m and stalls again and won't restart.:banghead:
9. Towed back to shop. When Tow truck dropped it off, it started ok.
10. Wasn't starting next morning. Replaced the ignition module and thought it was working again. Backed it o ut to the parking lot and it stalled again.
11 Mechanic not sure what could be the problem.:shakehead
Q. Should I go ahead and replace the fuel pump? I've seen threads on this forum that said they replaced the fuel pump but saw no difference. Trying to decide whether to have the fuel pump replaced ($1000 job), or whether there is anything else I can try?
old_master
12-20-2007, 06:46 PM
Two things:
#4) When the distributor cap and rotor are replaced, a small amount of silicone dielectric grease is applied to each terminal. When the engine is running, the electric current crystalizes it and appears like corrosion. It needs to be there.
#5) A scan tool cannot determine if a fuel pump is faulty.
As for your question: If the no start is caused by ignition, obviously the fuel pump will not fix the problem, and, if the problem is fuel related, ignition parts will not fix the problem either. We need to determine what is causing the no start condition, (lack of fuel or spark) and diagnose it. The symptoms sound like lack of fuel pressure, check it before replacing any parts. Key on, do not start the engine, fuel pump running, pressure needs to be 60 to 66psi. The pump will shut off after 2 to 3 seconds, pressure must not drop below 55 psi for 3 to 5 minutes. If it passes this test, we can move on to ignition diagnosis.
#4) When the distributor cap and rotor are replaced, a small amount of silicone dielectric grease is applied to each terminal. When the engine is running, the electric current crystalizes it and appears like corrosion. It needs to be there.
#5) A scan tool cannot determine if a fuel pump is faulty.
As for your question: If the no start is caused by ignition, obviously the fuel pump will not fix the problem, and, if the problem is fuel related, ignition parts will not fix the problem either. We need to determine what is causing the no start condition, (lack of fuel or spark) and diagnose it. The symptoms sound like lack of fuel pressure, check it before replacing any parts. Key on, do not start the engine, fuel pump running, pressure needs to be 60 to 66psi. The pump will shut off after 2 to 3 seconds, pressure must not drop below 55 psi for 3 to 5 minutes. If it passes this test, we can move on to ignition diagnosis.
boatbuster
12-27-2007, 03:28 PM
Don't pay $1000 for the fuel pump replacement. Check on google for astro fuel pump and you get a bunch of part places that sell them under $400. I found one on EBAY for my 1998 for $119 brand new, including delivery and 1 year warranty. They always have them on EBAY. As long as your tank is close to empty, it's not that bad of a job to do, I found the worst was getting the tank down.
Automotive Network, Inc., Copyright ©2025