Has anyone Opened up the 4WD Hubs and lubed them?

I have a '93 Geo Tracker 4WD.

It is snowing here in Washington State's East side of late!

My right side HUB won't lock in.

The selector goes to "Lock", but doesn't make the connection.

http://img167.imageshack.us/img167/8393/4wdhubsew3.jpg

What follows is how I fixed it, lubed and reassembled it.

It was easy except for two stuck bolts.....which I show how to fix.
Pictures included as per my usual.

DoctorBill

i had a 94 tracker i had opened them up and regreased everything it was kind of a pain because of the spring but not too hard to go, i live in upstate ny so i know the problem with the rust but it can be done. not very hard. dont use wd 40 on it, it work for very long and you cant bash it in. they can be changed out but much easier to lub them. hope this helps out. if you do, do this take one off and use the other one for the way to get the spring but in to show you how. but overall it is farly easy man and much cheaper to do it then to change them out.

The right Hub is the one sticking open, so I started with it first.

Jacked the Tracker up and took the wheel off.

Soaked each bolt with Penetrating Oil.

Tapped each bolt with my Brass Hammer to hopefully vibrate them loose.

http://img519.imageshack.us/img519/8320/opening0002gl8.jpg

Then I used my Allen Head Bits and "tried" to loosen all six bolts.

http://img267.imageshack.us/img267/4251/opening0003vn5.jpg

Only four came loose - two stripped the Allen Head Hole out....!

http://img267.imageshack.us/img267/373/opening0005pw3.jpg

Just read on Google,
http://www.more-mtb.org/forum/archive/index.php/t-2472.html
that I should cut a slot in the head to use a big flat head screwdriver, or better
yet, flatten two sides so I can use a wrench! I like both of those.
Done with a Dremel Tool - I have two of them!

It was dark and freezing cold by then so I will continue later tomorrow, weather
permitting.

Found some Metric Screws here in SPOKANE, WA - went to go to a "Fasteners" store -

http://img90.imageshack.us/img90/2113/ssboltsandwashersrj3.jpg

More pictures to follow......when I can get at the bugger! SNOW and 20 ° Temps....

DoctorBill

I used the technique mentioned in the link I put into the previous posting about cutting
a slot across the screw head with a Moto-Tool and using a big slot screwdriver.

Except I used an Impact Driver with a big Slot Screw Head.

BINGO - out they came! No worries! This method works like a charm!

http://img267.imageshack.us/img267/7562/whatloosenedscrewsbx9.jpg

So here are pictures from Beginning to end....

http://img166.imageshack.us/img166/6496/allscrewsloosepl0.jpg

http://img266.imageshack.us/img266/5199/removingcoverplateke4.jpg

The cover plate was not spring loaded as I had expected - in fact I had to pull it off.

http://img101.imageshack.us/img101/1492/coverplateinsidesrt7.jpg

Take care removing the Gasket if you want to reuse it. Delicate.

http://img338.imageshack.us/img338/2006/insidewheelhubfm4.jpg

The inside was dry - had to pry the Sliding Ring Gear out with a wire probe - a lot
of dried debris was in the outer gear slots.

I put 3-In-One oil in the rotating selector lever slot in the cover plate and worked it loose
and wiped out the dirty oil and repeated doing that until it was cleaned out and worked
easily. Lots of rusty dirt in the mechanism.

I wire brushed the sliding gear (don't know what it is called), the spring and the ring
thing that moves the sliding ring gear in and out (name?)

Here are the parts cleaned and dry....the Gasket is thin, paper-like and costs $5.15 each
from Chevrolet (must be ordered) Part number 96058641. They have a complex shape.

I'll use the new ones to make a template and cut my own after this! I'm cheap!

http://img167.imageshack.us/img167/3076/gutsofhubja1.jpg

Notice in the photo that the Sliding Ring Gear has teeth on ONE SIDE on the inside of
the gear and they are on one side of the ring only!

That goes to the outside when reassembling.

More tomorrow - darkness and cold descend upon my abode....

DoctorBill

I got gutsie and used my long-nosed pliers to squeeze the retaining spring in the
Hub Cover Plate to remove the Locking Lever from the plate itself.

There was so much dirt in it that I thought it best to totally disassemble it.

God - what a mess! Took several paper towels and paint thinner to remove all
the grime.

There is an "O"-Ring seal and the O-Ring is grooved - so take care - bet is is
expensive to replace.

Here is what it all looks like.

http://img263.imageshack.us/img263/9453/hubcoverinsideszt1.jpg

I will use Gear Grease to reassemble it - I have a bucket of it from the old days...

More info! - Chevy wants $336 for new Hub - EACH !

Used ones are probably mostly all corroded to Hell. No idea on what used ones cost.

More coming tomorrow or so.....aahlll be baaack!

DoctorBill

By the way (BTW) - here is a scan of the Outer Cover Plate Gasket if anyone
wants to cut their own out.

You'll have to scale your printout to make it come out at 9.1 cm tip to tip across
the diameter.
Right click the Image below, Save as...., save to a directory and then print it out
using some graphics program (?) Paint?

It is made of paper-like material and is thin as the cardboard in a Cereal Box.

I'd grease the Hell out of it before installing to keep water out. (Soak it)

http://img520.imageshack.us/img520/3565/hubgasketscan72vg9.jpg

I hope this helps someone save a buck or three....

DoctorBill

Today (Friday) after cleaning everything well and slathering grease on,
I reassembled the Hub.

The Outer Hub Selector Plate - the Spring Wire has to be behind that central
ring that goes in and out.
http://img143.imageshack.us/img143/1748/hubcovercleanedgreasedps9.jpg

This is the Hub inside section after being cleaned and wire brushed, blown out
with my air gun - ready for Gear Grease.
http://img143.imageshack.us/img143/952/hubcleanedforgreasecw9.jpg

Here the Grease is in and the Sliding Ring Gear has been pushed in.
http://img515.imageshack.us/img515/9771/hubgreasedgearinsidehi5.jpg

I placed the Gasket on the Outer Hub Selector Plate and slid it into the Hub.
Only goes in one way - don't force it!

I put Anti-Seize Grease on each of the six bolts and tightened them up.

........Finished.
http://img515.imageshack.us/img515/6268/reassembled4wdhubak5.jpg

The selector would not go all the way to "Lock" probably because of all the
Grease I put in there.

After driving a while I expect it will re-arrange itself and all will be 'copacetic'.

I drove it in 4WD in slushy snow and it "walked" right thru the snow like "twern't" there....

Now, since the left side Hub went into lock, I will wait until nice weather or Spring
(whichever comes first) to clean and lube it. Too miserable outside for a dog...

I ordered new Gaskets and will replace the right side hub's gasket when I do
the left side.

I will, of course, trace the new gasket on paper so as to cut my own when
I do this next year.

I plan to Lube these dude's every year now that I know about them and rust...

I sincerely hope that someone can profit from these photos.....

DoctorBill

Yup, but trying to fix up your old hubs, ESPECIALLY IF THEY'RE OEM EQUIP, is NOT worth it. The OEM hubs are junk. For @ $130, I'd invest in a set of NICE Warn hubs. You'll never need to service them again. Easy replacement job.