Battery Kill Switch Needed - 94 'Burb

I'm tired of pulling fuses, checking battery drain issues etc. and it's getting that time of year where I hate working on cars. I have a battery drain issue (posted somewhere on here), that I give up on, lol.

At work, I manually pull the neg cable off the battery, just for the sake of kepping it from draining. (its a slow drain, dead in 7 days if the car isn't driven).

I don't mind setting the clock/presets, so what I want to do, so I don't have to pop the hood and turn a wrench.. is install a switch. A battery kill switch.

Searching the net, I see the same one on the heavy machinery I drove at the mill (50 Ton Euclids). Do I use the NEG cable and would that be ok to have that much length of cable going to the glove box? Right now, I believe the neg is grounded at an intake bracket, so if I put the switch in the glove box Id probably need like 3 foot of cable (ground to switch then switch to battery).

Its not a security issue.. I doubt anyone would steal it if the keys were in it, lol.. I just want an easier way of killing the battery than poping the hood.

Suggestions?



edit..

here's one I had in mind (http://www.db-starter-alternator.com/Items/2484)

What size cable would be recommended?

I'm tired of pulling fuses, checking battery drain issues etc. and it's getting that time of year where I hate working on cars. I have a battery drain issue (posted somewhere on here), that I give up on, lol.

At work, I manually pull the neg cable off the battery, just for the sake of kepping it from draining. (its a slow drain, dead in 7 days if the car isn't driven).

I don't mind setting the clock/presets, so what I want to do, so I don't have to pop the hood and turn a wrench.. is install a switch. A battery kill switch.

Searching the net, I see the same one on the heavy machinery I drove at the mill (50 Ton Euclids). Do I use the NEG cable and would that be ok to have that much length of cable going to the glove box? Right now, I believe the neg is grounded at an intake bracket, so if I put the switch in the glove box Id probably need like 3 foot of cable (ground to switch then switch to battery).

Its not a security issue.. I doubt anyone would steal it if the keys were in it, lol.. I just want an easier way of killing the battery than poping the hood.

Suggestions?



edit..

here's one I had in mind (http://www.db-starter-alternator.com/Items/2484)

What size cable would be recommended?

Go to a electrical supply shop and see if they have a high amp throw switch.

If so you could hook it up on the neg cabel for a battery disconnect.
MT

I have a battery drain issue (posted somewhere on here), that I give up on, lol.?

On your other thread it does not say whether you did the fuse pull test or not.
Did you?

You might try getting a starter solenoid for a Ford. Just mount it near the battery, and run the small wires inside the cab. I always get nervous runing un-fused wires through sharp sheet metal.

On your other thread it does not say whether you did the fuse pull test or not.
Did you?

Yes, I did the fuse pull. I didn't use a voltmeter, used a test light to jump in between the neg cable and the battery. The suspect fuse (I forget the circuit off hand), is supposed to be hot at all times.. and that was the only one (when pulled), turned off the dim test light.

It did control all the inside lights, dome, cargo, glove box etc. At night, when I can see the lights if lit.. none were lit. None were 'stuck' on. I gave up on finding the faulty circuit or whatever until the weather gets a little warmer.. so for now, I just want the kill switch.

Like what kind (to handle the load without melting)
Bigger cable? (to offset the length I need to mount inside the cab and reach the battery)
And any other info that might help.

I know its pretty straight forward, but I don't need a melted cable or switch to burn down the burb, lol.


As per J-Ri.. I thought of that because I once had a 78TransAm and the headers caused excessive heat to the starter (causing hard starts when the car was warm). I bought a remote solenoid and mounted it on the fender well and all was good.

But as for this vehicle.. I'm going for the cheapest cost and the least time to install.. so that means some cable, a switch and one side post. I just want to get the right stuff.

I think he's talking about something like this.
http://www.standardbrand.com/web_app/catalog/images/SS598.jpg
Less than $10.00 here. (http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?carcode=1139565&parttype=4188&a=FRc1139565k942988)

What ever you go with I would keep it under the hood close to the battery.

If you use the solenoid setup mount it on fender or close to battery.
And just put switch in cab.
Some of them have to be grounded to work.
Also I am not sure how long they would last switched on all of the time.

But it might be best just to find the short or battery drain problem.

What ever you go with I would keep it under the hood close to the battery.

If you use the solenoid setup mount it on fender or close to battery.
And just put switch in cab.
Some of them have to be grounded to work.
Also I am not sure how long they would last switched on all of the time.

But it might be best just to find the short or battery drain problem.

So you wouldn't recommend a heavy duty switch with some extra cable? Why? I wouldn't think I'd have problems (as opposed to the solenoied setup with it being on most of the time) because some people relocate batterys to the trunk and they'd need a real long POS cable. I wouldn't think the NEG being roughly 2 - 3 feet would be that much of a problem. I assume getting a thicker cable would satisfy any loss of cranking power because of the longer cable.

Or am I over thinking this whole situation, lol.

I know the right way is to find the short/problem, but right now, that isn't an option. I need a quick temporary fix that doesn't require me opening the hood every time.

You could try a marine battery switch. This one's pretty cheap. (http://www.discountmarinesupplies.com/Battery_Switches-HELLA_BATTERY_DISCONNECT_SWITCH.html)
http://www.discountmarinesupplies.com/32862961.jpg

I ended up with one similar to this (http://www.db-starter-alternator.com/Items/2484). About $23. 4 gauge wire (7 foot), 3 copper connectors and a new side post. Got everything for about $45.

Now I have to wait for the neighbor to get home.. the guys at NAPA said to solder the cable into the connector, crimping is next to impossible with those type of connectors. Neighbor has solder, I didn't want to buy any, lol.

Good thing my Steelers don't play until Sunday night.. this might have to wait until tomorrow.

Quick question.. more like a dumb question.. I installed this type of switch..

http://www.ronfrancis.com/images/part-pic142.jpg

I used both posts (on the back of the switch).. one post from the battery (NEG) the other to the motor (ground). When I connect the battery, both positions of the switch give power to the vehicle. Should I be only using one post on the back of switch?? I reversed the ends and got the same result.

If it is a on and off switch ground should only go threw it in on position.

Did you get any instructions with the switch?

Does the battery neg cabel have a body ground wire on it close to battey post anywhere?

If it is a on and off switch ground should only go threw it in on position.

Did you get any instructions with the switch?

Does the battery neg cabel have a body ground wire on it close to battey post anywhere?

Nah, no instrutctions. And yes.. there is a wire going from the battery post that gets grounded into the body. When I ran the new cable, I put it back (one end into the side post, the other to the body). Should that not be used? Or should it be taken off and the other cable that gets grounded to the intake (coming from the switch).. should I use that body ground wire off of that?

Heres a real quick crude diagram of how it is now.

http://www.eacustomcovers.com/_misc/batt1.jpg



should it be like this instead?

http://www.eacustomcovers.com/_misc/batt2.jpg


eidt:
Is the body ground needed? Any drawbacks if I leave it off?

Nah, no instrutctions. And yes.. there is a wire going from the battery post that gets grounded into the body. When I ran the new cable, I put it back (one end into the side post, the other to the body). Should that not be used? Or should it be taken off and the other cable that gets grounded to the intake (coming from the switch).. should I use that body ground wire off of that?

Heres a real quick crude diagram of how it is now.

http://www.eacustomcovers.com/_misc/batt1.jpg



should it be like this instead?

http://www.eacustomcovers.com/_misc/batt2.jpg


eidt:
Is the body ground needed? Any drawbacks if I leave it off?


You will need to wire the switch to break all grounds.

Remove the neg ground cable from batter and Run a cabel from neg battery post to the switch.

Then another cable from switch from the other post on switch back to the origional battery neg cabel.

You will need to wire the switch to break all grounds.

Remove the neg ground cable from batter and Run a cabel from neg battery post to the switch.

Then another cable from switch from the other post on switch back to the origional battery neg cabel.

The first image I posted is how it is now (not OEM), with the switch installed/new cable ran etc, and not 'killing' the power. (I assume the body ground is why).

The second image is how it needs to be (and is how your instructions say to do it).

Is the body ground really 'needed'? If its absolutely needed, I can ground anywhere on the body? Because Im really not to keen on buying anymore wire and I think (I hope) the existing body ground wire should be long enough to reach from the switch to somewhere behind the glovebox.

You need all grounds engine and body
There may be several of ways to do it.
But I would keep all body grounds as is.
Just break the connection at the battery neg post.

You will need a battery cabel from battery neg post to switch and another battery cable back to the disconnected neg battery post.
Good luck
MT

Thanks MT. Here's more quick drawings, the first one is how it was OEM wise, so the second one is how I will do it with my switch, keeping the body ground point where it is. I'll use the same stud on the intake as it's other point. Guess I need to go and get some more wire..

http://www.eacustomcovers.com/_misc/oem.jpg

http://www.eacustomcovers.com/_misc/batt3.jpg

Yes the last drawing should get it.
The kill switch makes a good anti theft system to.
Good luck.
MT

I wont have time to do it today, so I'll get my longer wire tomorrow. As for the anti-theft device.. I doubt anyone would take it if left running with a sign on it "take me"! ha.

... As for the anti-theft device.. I doubt anyone would take it if left running with a sign on it "take me"! ha.

With steel prices soaring, old beaters are becoming more valuable every day :lol:

With steel prices soaring, old beaters are becoming more valuable every day :lol:

This is true, ha. It is a beast of a vehcile and for a 94 its steel is in great shape. I cant say thats the case for the paint nor interior though :grinno:

The car spent its entire life (up until 5 years ago) living in Texas, so its solid everywhere. With the Indiana winters now, hell.. shouldn't be too long before it falls apart. 173k and still runs great. I'll have to price that beast for its steel net worth, lol..

I've used these for years.
http://www.autoanything.com/driving-accessories/69A1720A0A0.aspx