2002 Explorer Rear Differential

Hey all.

I took my Explorer (4.0L V6, 96,000 miles) to my Ford dealer the other day because I had a vibration and grinding sound when I would turn at low speeds. They told me that the clutch packs were worn and needed to be replaced and that it would cost about $500.

What they wanted to do, however, was rebuild the entire rear differential for $1329, they said it would fix my grinding problem and also fix the whine that I get when I am pressing the gas at 40+ mph (or so).

I know these are both common problems on the Explorer, but should it really cost $1329 to do this? Should I take it to another mechanic to have done?

Thanks all,

Braden

You might want to find a powertrain/drivetrain specialist in your area and have them diagnose it and give you an estimate. These shops typically do limited slip units for high performance cars all day long and know how to set all the clearances accurately. They also tend to have a lower labor rate than the dealer and access to more parts vendors. They likely can save you some money on the parts as well.

-Rod

shorod,

thanks for your reply! i will definitely try doing this... thank you very much for the suggestion. :smile:

Hedy brazzle. Before you invest a lot in the rear end, drain all the fluid and go to Ford and buy a bottle of friction modifier. Change the fluid and put the bottle of modifier. Then find a place where you can turn the thing in tight circles in both directions. Make 10 or 15 complete circles in both directions. This may buy you some more time. We have had good success with doing this on rear ends in Fords. If the modifier is cheap enough, use 2. Good luck.

shorod,

do you know how I can go about finding a powertrain/drivetrain specialist? I tried googling it but no such luck.

way2old,

will using that friction modifier only buy me time or could it be a fix? unfortunately I've seen lots of times where dealers notice a familiar problem and so they use the familiar fix instead of another one that would work (for much cheaper).

thanks

I assume you have a phone book other than Google. Pull out the Yellow Pages and look in the Automotive section. Or, if you don't have a phone book, use qwestdex.com or yellowbook.com and search your area and surrounding areas. There should be powertrain specialists somewhere in your area I'd expect. If you don't find anything, then ask around at a local car show or race track.

-Rod

The modifier may buy more time or it may last for 3 or 4 years. There is really no way to predict or to be sure of the outcome without having my hands on it. Drain the fluid and see if there is any sparkling looking flakes in it. It these flakes are minimal, try the modifier. We use it every time we build a limited slip rearend. The whine you are getting will not be helped by the friction modifier.

In a worst case you can buy a good used rear end at a scrap yard. You should be able to R&R in a days time. Make sure you take your tag when you go so you get the same gear ratios. Have the used unit at home before you start.

You probably just have a bad axle bearing. The bearing will fail and it sounds like your riding on 36 inch swampers! If it goes too long, it will carve out a groove on you axle shaft. Timken makes an axle bearing repair kit in case that happens. The bearing is offset about 3/4 of an inch and rides to the side of the damage.

This is what happened to my wifes sport trac and I had to opt for the bearing repair kit. but, it was a lot cheaper than a new axle shaft!

sassee,

Thanks for the tip! Its a little too late, as I've already had this fixed; however, if it ever happens again, it is good to know about this.

make sure you have the new rear end. During the Summer of 2004 (I think) Ford made a new rear end for that vehicle (at least for the tow package gear ratio).

The original rear end vibrates and is loud. They replaced it but it was not a safety recall and I found only one guy at my local dealership was aware of the new one when I demanded they put it on! Like most every one else they wanted to rebuild it (crappy part swap for crappy part swap).