Daylight running lights

I have a 99 burb and the green indicator light is on at the dash but the lights are not on at the headlights. Checked fuses all OK. Any suggestions??

On my 97 if you push down the parking brake one click it will turn the DRL's off. You might check that. I do know from experience if the fuse is pulled the DRL's are disabled but the green indicator on the cluster stays on.

What "Old Dave" said is true.

If you find the parking brake switch is not the culprit here's a couple of other things to check for.

The most common cause of your problem is the DRL diode and/or the DRL relay.

So, pull the relay out (located in the convenience center ((inside firewall behind the park brake pedal)) bottom center position). Probe the upper right contact for 12v (hot at all times). This is the 12v feed from the DRL/FOG fuse thru the diode to the relay. No other contact should have voltage.

Post back what you find and we'll go from there.

Thanks guys I will check it out today and post back!

Dereck

OK Gents,

I replaced the relay and still no exterior lights. There was a clicking coming from the relay when I put in, probably cause it was getting power.

Dereck

1. Did you or did you not have voltage on the upper right contact with the relay out?????????

2. Did you or did you not have voltage on any of the other contacts??????????

777stickman,

Will a tester light do the trick or do I need a power meter? If thats what I need I 'll need to get it from my neighbor. I should have 12v at that location right?

Since you seem to have knowledge of the burb I have another question for you if you don't mind. passenger seat heater works but the most important one the drivers seat doesn't. Again fuses are good but no heat for my butt, where should I start with that?

Dereck

RE: Heated drivers seat (although it should be a separate post)!!

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=761225&highlight=drivers+heated+seat
http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=671133&highlight=heated+seats

Also need to pull the switch out of the seat and make sure power is getting to it and going thru it.

Sorry, about not being a new post, I tell you these new guys are something else! Anyway, thanks for the info, but there was one more question from last post

"Will a tester light do the trick or do I need a power meter? If thats what I need I 'll need to get it from my neighbor. I should have 12v at that location right?"

Dereck

Either one will do. Yes you should have 12v at that contact with the ign switch off and the headlight switch off. No other contact should have 12v.

No power at top lft post with key off but power when key is on.

Dereck

Just relised that power should be at upper right post, no power there but when key is on there is power at the upper left

Dereck

Most likely the DRL diode. Located to the right of the steering column support. Look for orange and yellow wires. Power at the upper left is correct with the key on.

Regarding DRL's... if you remove the DRL relay, will the headlights still work when the switch is "ON"?

TIA,
Steve

Regarding DRL's... if you remove the DRL relay, will the headlights still work when the switch is "ON"?

TIA,
Steve

Per the schematics--. Only the HI beams will work. The LOW beams go thru the relaxed contacts of the DRL relay. Try it and post back.

Per the schematics--. Only the HI beams will work. The LOW beams go thru the relaxed contacts of the DRL relay. Try it and post back.

You're correct... only HI beams work with the DRL relay removed.

If I unplugged the parking brake switch at the pedal, other than disabling the indicator light, would that also disable the DRL's? If not, what is the "preferred" method of disabling the DRL's.

Steve

If you just don't want the DRL's on pull DRL/FOG fuse. The green indicator lamp will still be active. Unplugging the park brake switch will do nothing for disabling the DRL's.

If you just don't want the DRL's on pull DRL/FOG fuse. The green indicator lamp will still be active.

That's what I thought as well, so I pulled the DRL/FOG fuse. Still had the DRL's.

I assume we're talking about the same fuse, located in the fuse center on the driver's side of the dash panel, only accessible with the driver's door open?

Steve

Huh?? You're in the right fuse panel. Make sure you pulled the right fuse. It's the one below #15 not above. 3rd row down and 3rd fuse from the front. 20a. Just did it on my '98 sub and no DRL's!!

Also you never really mentioned what year and model. All the stuff I've posted is for '99 and older (old body style).

Huh?? You're in the right fuse panel. Make sure you pulled the right fuse. It's the one below #15 not above. 3rd row down and 3rd fuse from the front. 20a. Just did it on my '98 sub and no DRL's!!

Doh! I didn't notice the row of small numbers ABOVE the first row of fuses. Yep... after pulling the correct DRL/FOG fuse, no DRL's.

Also you never really mentioned what year and model. All the stuff I've posted is for '99 and older (old body style).

Sorry about that, I posted that info on another thread and missed it on this one. My Sub is a '98 K1500, 5.7l, 170k miles.

Thanks for the help with the DRL's!

Steve

Thanks to all, I replaced the drl diode (30.00 part) and lights are working fine now.

Thanks ,
Dereck

Dereck: Good job and thanks for posting back the fix.

I'm wondering if there is a connection between the overheating of the tan colored wire at the multifunction switch, and the DRL's constant on.
IOWs, whether pulling the 15 fuse would eliminate the problem, or not.

I have a quick question regarding the daytime running lights. When my daytime runing lights are working they appear to have the same brightness and I assume the same voltage as when the actual lights are on. I currently have a 99 K1500 Sub that I recently purchased with 225K. My previous Sub was a 94 with over 425K on it and I do recall the lights were always dimmer when only the daytime running lights operated and then when you turned on the light switch they became brighter.

This being the case, is there a relay or a resistor that is malfunctioning and should be replaced?

I have a 99 too. Pretty sure they are the same bulb, so same brightness.

Yes, I know that they use the same bulb but usually they run on lower voltage and as a result are not as bright when the Daytime Running Lights are operating. This is to remind you that your lights are not on when operating at dusk and to turn them on and give you taillights etc.

I was hoping that someone could tell me if that is the case with the 99 Sub or if I do have a relay or a resistor that is failing. I will check with the dealer and see what he has to say and advise if I end up with a solution.

I really don't think you have a problem. My '98 Sub lights don't change at all from DRL to regular low beams. The '98 service manual calls the DRL diode a "voltage reducing" diode (only does that one time)?? I think it's there to prevent back voltage to the DRL/FOG fuse when the headlights are turned on and if the DRL relay fails in the low beam circuit.

Also, the thing that reminds you that the DRL's are on is the little green indicator light in the dash and the fact that the dash lights are not on.

When chasing a no low beam but good DRL issue, I ran across many posts saying low beams and DRLs are the same.

Look at them at night. I see zero difference between the two.