98 Suburban door lock fuse weird problem

I've searched this forum and found a few folks that have a similar problem, but no one posted a solution, so here goes again:

Every couple of days, my 20 amp cigarette lighter fuse (#13) will blow. It is connected to the lumbar seats, the cigarette lighter, the interior door lock switches (not the key FOB - that is separate). Does anyone have an idea as to why/how this circuit becomes overloaded. I've tried using a 25 amp and that didn't help. Seems a common problem.

Does this happen after you use the door lock switch(s)? Possible bad switch &/or solenoid. Disconnect one solenoid at a time. Do you use your lighter regularly? Possible bad lighter element. Try disconnecting the connectors to your seat controls. Try to isolate an offending item (one at a time) that is protected by this fuse, then repair or replace as necessary. I've had to replace all my door lock solenoids, although I've not had a fuse blowing issue prior, they just did not work. Good Luck!

I agree with your approach. One more thing fuse #13 (cig. lighter) controls is the rear door speakers. The fuse does not blow with continuous use of the right or left front door lock switch. Also doesn't blow with continuous use of the lumbar controls, or with using cig. lighter. Today, I'm trying leaving the radio off and seeing if not using the rear speakers helps.

Would you know if the power side mirrors are controlled by fuse #13 (cig. lighter) on a 98 Suburban?

What do you mean the rear door speakers are on the same circuit? The only reason speakers of any kind need voltage is if they are powerewd by the amp which in reality means the amp needs voltage. I'm not sure if you 'burb has a built in amplifier for your rear speakers or not. Other than that it sounds like something isn't on that circuit isn't grounded properly. Also, whatever you do, I highly recommend you dont use any other fuse than what it calls for. Fuses are designed to pop if the amperage gets too high (in your case 20A) before frying anything else up.

I'd thought I'd read in the factory service manual, but you're right, that does not make any sense. Also agree not to use a higher service fuse than what should be used. What do you mean by the statement: "Other than that it sounds like something isn't on that circuit isn't grounded properly". I thought a bad ground wouldn't pop a fuse, but rather a 12V that is [improperly] touching a ground, such as a bare wire that contacts the vehicle body.

Fuse #13 provides power to: Power Amp, Rear Liftglass, Cigarette Lighter, Door Lock Relay, and Power Lumbar Seat. Your Power Mirrors are off the #3 fuse. This according to the '98 Owner's Manual. Make sure all items have a good connection at it's connector and that items like door lock solenoids are securely attached (ie: grounded. I believe GM riveted them to the inner door structure). Check the radio and seat connectors. You might have a bad door lock relay... it and the audio amplifier along with the radio amplifier relay are located in the cavity behind and to the left of the radio.

Yes, 10-4 to all of that, I just checked Manual #1 of the FSM, 1998 C/K. I don't have rear lift glass (barn doors instead). I'll keep an eye out for all of them.

I'd thought I'd read in the factory service manual, but you're right, that does not make any sense. Also agree not to use a higher service fuse than what should be used. What do you mean by the statement: "Other than that it sounds like something isn't on that circuit isn't grounded properly". I thought a bad ground wouldn't pop a fuse, but rather a 12V that is [improperly] touching a ground, such as a bare wire that contacts the vehicle body.
You are absolutely correct, SuperDanny- poor grounds/no ground have absolutely nothing to do with blowing a fuse. You are looking for a wire carrying (+) 12 volts that is touching ground somewhere. The purpose of a fuse is to open the circuit (prevent current flow) when excess current flow (short to ground) happens somewhere in the circuit.

Chasing grounds will find nothing in your case. You may want to look under your power seat to make sure moving wires haven't chaffed through on the seat frame/ seat track somewhere, and make sure there aren't any loose coins in the bottom of your cigarette lighter socket!

I know this is a bit old, However I just solved this issue I was having FOREVER on my Burb. Mine ended up being a grounding out wire underneath my drivers seat. I disconnected the power to my seat, Fixed the wires and haven't had trouble since!

good luck!