Running Rough no CEL code

The van was running rough and I had an CEL, misfire on #1. Changed the spark plugs, wires and ignition pack. Started the Van no CEL but still running VERY rough. Tractor like! any suggestions????

I assume it may be running rough more than before you changed the plugs and wires..If so go back and check wires for right cylinders fire order also Vac lines. Also what year do you have?? Could be a number of issues. Dirty injectors also could give a misfire reading.. Other than that check fire order first.

It is a 2000 3.8L. I have checked the wires to make sure they are in the correct order. And yes it was rough and missing before I did the work, and now it is just running rough. Rough in the sense of vibrating. Went to Goodyear, wanted $250 just to try to discover the origin of the problem. OUch!

It is a 2000 3.8L. I have checked the wires to make sure they are in the correct order. And yes it was rough and missing before I did the work, and now it is just running rough. Rough in the sense of vibrating. Went to Goodyear, wanted $250 just to try to discover the origin of the problem. OUch! Anybody have a suggestion as to why the CEL is not on when it is running rough?

The CEL may come on later. Until it gets and stores the code its under check mode and this can takes time.. Being its a 2000 have you had the isolator bolt /port seal problem yet??? Also the IAC idle air control valve can cause rough idle..Does it run rough all the time under load as well.???

Thanks for the information. Not quite sure what the "isolator" problem is? It doesn't seem to be as rough once I get up to past 40mph. In Idle and starting off it is very rough, shudders!

The van was running rough and I had an CEL, misfire on #1. Changed the spark plugs, wires and ignition pack. Started the Van no CEL but still running VERY rough. Tractor like! any suggestions????
??What type of coil pack did you buy.. Just curious..
As for the IAC it can be cleaned with carb cleaner.. Also your MAS airflow sensor you can clean with MAS air flow cleaner only not hard to find. Some have used electrical contact cleaner to do this. I have not plus MAS air flow cleaner was cheaper and came in a bigger can..As for the isolator bolts and port seals. You would have had a 171-174 CEL code..I would not worry about that until the CEL comes on.. If you have time you can clean the IAC with carb cleaner and use MAS airflow cleaner on the MAS sensor to see if that helps.

Just for the heck of it... Check the IMRC (intake manifold runner control). This a black box at the front of the motor above the water pump. There should be 2 bent metal rods coming out of both sides of the box. These are known to fall off. I found mine the other day laying on top of the engine. The rods are held on by plastic bushings that wear out.
My engine was acting up because the butterflies that these rods control were left slightly open when the rods fell off. It was not enough to throw a CEL, but it was definitely running poorly. The bad news is that Ford wants about $6 a piece for these chinsy little pieces of plastic. (I need all 4!) I currently have the rods off and I just closed the butterflies. It runs fine, but I don't get that extra pep from the motor when the RPM's kick in.
Just a thought.

Thanks, Funnily enough I spotted that little rod lying on the block. One side was attached the other was not. I will attach that and see if it helps.

The coil pack was bought at Advance Auto parts. When I put the wires back on, I used that grease like substance made for the contacts, was that OK to use?

As you can tell, A mechanic I AM NOT!!

Thanks, Funnily enough I spotted that little rod lying on the block. One side was attached the other was not. I will attach that and see if it helps.

The coil pack was bought at Advance Auto parts. When I put the wires back on, I used that grease like substance made for the contacts, was that OK to use?

As you can tell, A mechanic I AM NOT!!
Got mine from Advanced as well.. Not sure on the lube but dont see it hurting anything..JP Soreson or somthing like that I think was the brand.. BUT YEA check that IMRC ..

Had the Injector service done yesterday helped ever so slightly. I am going to attach the IRMC today and see if it helps. I did notice on the recently replaced plugs that 5 had a fair amount of deposits on them and #1 plug did not have any, and the code I got on the CEL was Misfire on #1. Do you think it is a possiblity that the injector for that cylinder could be clogged. If so, can a single injector be cleaned, and if so, is it a big job. I have my Chilton's manual at my side. Thanks for all the suggestions, it allows me to go through the process of elimination myself without having to hand over $250+ to the Goodyear man. Thanks again.

For a 1999 and newer 3.8L Windstar....give this site a visit.
http://leckemby.net/windstar/windstar01.html

IF this TSB has not been done, then the vaccum leak could be causing your problem.....just not enough to light the CEL yet.
The sticky post at the top of the windstar room has a lot of discussion on this as well.

For cleaning the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor.....don't use "contact cleaner" as most of those leave a oily deposit that prevents oxidation.
That is good for CONTACTS, but bad for the MAF sensor.
The "MAF cleaner" or non-residue electronic cleaner would be the way to go.

What kind of spark plugs were used?
The fancy multi-prong Bosch plugs that they have displayed so nicely at the auto part stores.......don't do so well in the Windstar.
The correct plug would be the Autolite or Motorcraft brand "double platinumn".

The "Grease" for the plug wire to spark plug connection would be "Dielectric grease", which is a good thing.
This seals the connection from moisture, and also makes it easier to remove the spark plug wire boot from the spark plug.
One thing worth note.....to remove the spark plug wire.....grasp the spark plug boot....not the wire....and rotate the boot on the spark plug 1/4 turn in each direction to break it free.....then pull out...again grasping ONLY the BOOT.

I have had a "GP Soreson" coil pack on my '96 for about 5 years with no problems.

Now......I chased a "slight misfire" for a few months.....throwing a number of parts at the problem (including the coil pack).
Due to the age of my vehilce (1996), I did not mind replacing many of the items that I replaced.
Finally, it lit the CEL.....P0302, and I found that the spark plug for that cylinder was "cleaner than the others".
I bought a new fuel injector ($75) and took things apart to get to it....and replaced it.
Problem solved.
I looked at the injector that I took out.......and was amazed at the junk that was built up over the spray end of the injector......inside the "cap".
I had used a few brands of fuel system cleaner.....was even using a "Maintenance dose" of Redline Fuel System Cleaner with each tank of fuel....
Several years later, my mechanic (yes I do take my old '96 to the shop) told me about Berryman's B-12 Chemtool.
It does work.
You can get it at most auto part stores......I get it in a metal can.

For what it is worth, $250 at a shop is not a lot of money.
Some shops will estimate a little high to give a little buffer.......but at $80 and up an hour......you can get there in a hurry.
Without a "smoking gun" in the form of a CEL.... it could take some time to track down the problem.
Hopefully they are paying their mechanics a good rate....which will attract and retain good people....and then they have to mark up from there to make a profit.

If you have read a couple of my posts......you will know about the fuel system cleaner.....because the injectors on the Windstar are pretty reliable...but the windstar DOES seem to build up this deposit over the spray end of the injectors.
It is a combination of the oil vapors from the PCV system and the carbon from the EGR system.
The Berryman's product is a sovent based cleaner that will cut through that crud.

The other thing that I keep mentioning is routine maintenance items.
Some people stay on top of that....others drive until a problem crops up.
With a 2000 year vehicle.....7....almost 8 model years old......the original battery would be on borrowed time, the spark plug wires should be replaced, PCV valve should be replaced.....along with the fuel and air filters being up to date, etc.