Correct Fluids for 96 Windstar

What are the correct fluids to use with the 96 Windstar?

Transmission: I understand Mercon V is now the recommendation?

Coolant: green, ethylene glycol coolant?... is anything else acceptable?

Power Steering: Type F ATF transmission fluid ?... anything else acceptable?

Thanks,

Dana

For your tranny, Mercon V is now the choice. Your year may have originally reccomended a standard Mercon blend, but V would be an 'upgrade'.

You can use any coolant, really, assuming you have flushed out all the old forumla if you're switching. I've done a few drain and refills with the newest Prestone/SuperTech blend FWIW.

Type F is what's specified for your PS system, but you might as well use the same Mercon/Mercon V you're using in the tranny.

For your tranny, Mercon V is now the choice. Your year may have originally reccomended a standard Mercon blend, but V would be an 'upgrade'.

You can use any coolant, really, assuming you have flushed out all the old forumla if you're switching. I've done a few drain and refills with the newest Prestone/SuperTech blend FWIW.

Type F is what's specified for your PS system, but you might as well use the same Mercon/Mercon V you're using in the tranny.

The latter is the one I wonder about... no harm from going to the Mercon V?

I just change my tranny fluid with vavoline dex/mercon III, run and shift smooth on my 1995 windstar 3.8l.

The latter is the one I wonder about... no harm from going to the Mercon V?

No harm at all.

Power Steering fluid, what you DO NOT want to use is "power steering fluid" from the auto part store.
That is totally the wrong fluid.
The power steering system in the Windstar uses Automatic Transmission Fluid.
I have Redline Synthetic Power Steering fluid in mine......as it lists the exact FORD specification number that is in my owner's manual.
I also 'suspect' that using the Mercon / Mercon V fluid would cause no problem.
If so, you might use Mobil 1 ATF as it is a quality synthetic fluid.
The Windstar seems to cook the power steering fluid.....even with the power steering cooler.
The synthetic will take the heat better.
It will also give you improved cold flow in those cold winters.
It is a real good idea to replace the power steering fluid.
It will help you to avoid problems.

IF you do a search on "grease needle" or read the "general windstar information" post at the top of the forum, you will read about how to get some lubrication into the tie rod ends.
Dry tie rod ends can add a significant load to the steering system, as well as wear out.
As the factory tie rod ends do not have grease fittings, this is a way to get some grease into them and extend their life.....as well as reduce the load on the power steering system.

FORD back specified 5W-20 oil for older years of windstar.
You are still fine with 5W-30, but can also use 5W-20

I switched my coolant over to G-05.
This is what Motorcraft 'GOLD' is.
You can now get Zerex G-05 coolant at AutoZone.
Your '96 came with "traditional green".
You can still get traditional green coolant, but you have to look for it.
Zerex still makes it....as well as a couple of other brands.
Prestone "All Makes All Models" will also work, but is a OAT (Organic Acid Technology) based coolant.....Dexcool is another OAT type of coolant.

G-05 is a Hybrid Organic Acid Technology (HOAT) type of coolant.
It has some silicate which provides imediate protection, as well as the Organic Acid that provides long life protection, but takes some time to build up a protective layer.

OAT and HOAT type coolants are usually "long life" with a rated service life of 5 years.
Traditional Green (silicate, but lower level of silicate than in the past) has a rated service life of 2 years.

If you put a long life coolant into a traditional green system, and don't get all of the old coolant out, the rated service life of the new, long life coolant, is 2 years.
All of these type coolants are Ethylene Glycol coolant......it is just the additive package that is different.

So, in your case.....the IMPORTANT thing is to CHANGE the coolant.
I would personally recommend either the traditional green that your vehicle came with, or the G-05 coolant that is similar, (but improved), to the coolant that your vehicle came with.
Then, change it again in 2 years.


I found that my '96 3.8L vehicle was difficult to get all the air pockets "burped" out of the system.
So be careful to avoid overheating your engine ....which can happen when there is air in the system.
If the temperature shoots up, just turn off the engine and let it cool for at least 30 minutes.
If your thermostat is in there correctly, there is a small pin hole (I show this in my pictures) that will let air pockets slowly bleed through the system.
When the engine is fully cool, you can remove the radiator cap to add fluid if needed.....if it is so low that you cannot feel fluid in the upper radiator hose when you squeeze it.
A small amount of air will work its way out through the overflow bottle....but a large amount will need the additional help of adding it directly to the radiator.

Not knowing much about synthetic oils, any harm moving to a synthetic after 97,000 miles using regular oil?

Does the TSB actually exist that says it is okay to substitute mercon v for mercon? I have not been able to find it. The shop that does my car repairs does not know anything about it and won't consider putting in mercon V in my 96 Windstar.

The TSB is 06-14-4 issued July, 24, 2006

It is still OK to use Mercon, but FORD discontinued licensing Mercon as of July of 2007.
They say to use Mercon V in all vehicles that specify Mercon.

This is why you now see Mercon V specification, and the recommendation for use in Mercon Specification on ATF labels now.

It is very understandable that your shop would not want to put Mercon V in if they are not aware of this latest TSB....
FORD has issued a few TSB's in the past that say NOT to use Mercon V or a product that is listed as Mercon / Mercon V in Mercon applications.

This TSB, 06-14-4, supersedes those earlier TSB's.

I'm going to bypass my regular shop and take the WS to the Ford dealer for the transmission flush and fluid replacement. Turns out it will cost less. But the service person I spoke with by phone at the dealer did not seem to be aware of the replacement of Mercon with Mercon V as the preferable fluid. I'll have to speak with them when I take the WS in for the service. I get the feeling I'll get Mercon rather than Mercon V if I don't speak up.

I've been told by several people that adding Mercon V to a transmission designed for Mercon will cause problems. That is contrary to what I see on this forum. Has the Mercon V been reformulated to address this? Apparently it must be if Ford is no longer licensing Mercon.

I have been trying to find the actual TSB to print out and take with me but have not had any success uncovering it, even with the TSB#.

I expect the same problems if I decide to go with something other than Mercon for the power steering. Is there a compelling reason to use something other than Mercon? Haven't looked to see if I can possiblly do the power steering fluid replacement myself. Not really confident doing anything but the most basic work on a car.

Dana

From what I understand about the mercon fluids is that mercon is a stock based petroleum product where as mercon v is a synthetic blend type oil which offers better protection.
I recently flushed out my power steering system on my 2000 windstar because the pump was whining when I turned the wheel. If I would have taken it to the dealer, they would quoted me a new pump or rack and pinion ($ouch$). Now the whining is completely gone and the steering is much smoother than before, I used Mobil 1 full synthetic ATF for my P/S system because like Wiswind said; It handles the heat better. It is a fairly easy job to do just have the right tools and bucket to catch the old oil. Some other items you can get to simplify the job and minimize the mess are:
1. Vacuum cap 3/8" (a rubber piece to cap the reservoir with after removal of the return hose, I got it at Autozone)
2. Clear tubing 3/8" ( I bought this at Homedepot to see the condition of the oil coming out of the system)
3. Brass hose mender 3/8" (Also at Homedepot to connect the return hose to the clear tubing)
4. 2-3 quarts Mobil 1 ATF or Mercon V fluid
This minimized any mess and made everything go smoothly for me. Hope this helps.

Maybe I missed it somewhere, but can someone explain how exactly to remove ALL of the old PS fluid to change to a different kind of fluid?

Thanks,
Dale

There are a couple of posts on here that describe how to flush the power steering fluid.

Use care to avoid getting any fluid onto the serpentine belt.
Also be carefull to keep yourself and any objects out of the belt area.

You remove the hose that connects to the bottom of the pump resevoir.....this is the RETURN line from the power steering cooler.
You plug the spot that this hose came off to prevent the resevoir from draining.

You direct the end of the hose into a container to hold the fluid.
You can do this by sliding a larger hose over it as mentioned.

You then make sure that the resevoir has a decent amount of fluid in it.
You then touch the ignition just a bit (helps to have a 2nd person to do this).
You don't want to start the vehicle.....or if started......turn it right off again, as the resevoir drains very quickly.
You then fill the resevoir with new fluid (Type F ATF fluid or Mercon/Mercon V ATF) and repeat the process.....
Do this until you have run about 3 quarts of fresh fluid through the system.
I like to turn the steering wheel a bit each time.......so that I go from limit to limit.

Then you reconnect the hose......secure it with the clamp.

Fill the resevoir to the correct level, don't overfill.

Then start the engine and look it over for leaks.

Turn the steering wheel from limit to limit......not resting against the limit.

Ford dealer did the transmission flush today and replaced fluid with Mercon V. This service person knew what was up in contrast to the one I spoke with on the phone a few days ago. Too early to tell if it makes a difference. I need to find an excuse to do some cruising and see how it feels.

The WS checks out pretty good per their inspection. Replaced the pcv valve and rotated tires while it was in. Thought hard about having them do the power steering while it was in but reserved that task for myself if I feel up to it.

Ford dealer did the transmission flush today and replaced fluid with Mercon V. Just out of interest - how much did they charge for that (parts and labor)?

On your question about switching from regular to synthetic oil: there are a few threads about that on here. As I understand it, there was initially concern that switching to synthetic oil would cause the seals to dry out and leaks to form. "They say" that the oil companies added some sort of substance to the synthetic mixture to prevent this problem and e.g. Mobil stakes its reputation/product on it not being a problem: http://www.mobil1.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Car_Care/AskMobil/Switching_to_Mobil_1_in_High-Mileage_Cars.aspx

From my own experience, I switched from the cheapest possible drugstore oil to Mobil 1, and didn't have any problems. Your mileage may vary (literally and metaphorically).

Just out of interest - how much did they charge for that (parts and labor)?

On your question about switching from regular to synthetic oil: there are a few threads about that on here. As I understand it, there was initially concern that switching to synthetic oil would cause the seals to dry out and leaks to form. "They say" that the oil companies added some sort of substance to the synthetic mixture to prevent this problem and e.g. Mobil stakes its reputation/product on it not being a problem: http://www.mobil1.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Car_Care/AskMobil/Switching_to_Mobil_1_in_High-Mileage_Cars.aspx

From my own experience, I switched from the cheapest possible drugstore oil to Mobil 1, and didn't have any problems. Your mileage may vary (literally and metaphorically).

They got $120 for the transmission flush.

There is a Mobile 1 High Mileage synthetic, but it appears to be only available in 10W-30. It specifically says it has conditioners for seals. I don't see that stated for the other Mobile 1 synthetics, but it may be just left unsaid.