Field report: DIY strut replacement

I spent this past Saturday replacing the front struts on my '00 Windstar, so I thought I'd share what I learned.

First, some background: I've got a fair amount of mechanical experience, and learned a lot from replacing the struts in my '95 Contour recently (which was my first strut/spring replacement - my '86 Mustang has struts in the front, but separate from the spring, so no spring compressor required).

- I've got a decent selection of tools, including a 1/2" impact wrench (which really helps on this job). I got the cheapie Harbor Freight spring compressor - on sale for $8.99! It works fine for Windstar struts.

- I've seen Windstar strut replacement procedures that call for removing the ball joint from the knuckle, and removing each halfshaft. After looking at it for awhile, I decided that, with care, the struts could be replaced without removing either of these items. I was right - which simplifies this job.

- I decided that part of the key to replacing the struts without removing other hardware was partially compressing the spring while the strut was still in the van. I slightly modified my spring compressor to do this (see pics, linked below). It worked fine - though, in retrospect, I probably could have removed the struts without compressing the spring at all, by removing the brake caliper and the wire mount for the ABS sensor.

- The clearance on my van is slightly different between the driver and passenger sides. I didn't have to remove the brake caliper on the passenger side - but the brake line would have been stretched on the driver's side, so I removed the caliper (and ABS wiring mount) to gain access space.

- I replaced my struts with OEM Ford Motorcraft units, purchased on eBay. I re-used the original springs. Some people on this board have used "quick strut" kits, that include a strut packaged with a new spring. I didn't find the extra step of compressing the spring to transfer it to the new strut to be a big deal.

- I removed the struts without removing the van's cowl (the plastic pieces that are between the hood and the windshield). This meant it was a tight squeeze to loosen the bolts at the top of the strut. I learned my lesson by the end of the job, and removed the cowl to ease installation, which only takes a few minutes, and makes the job much easier. My scratched knuckles are reminding me of this lesson as I type.

- The impact wrench makes the bolts on the end of the strut rod easy: No need to fool with finding a way to keep the strut shaft from turning; just let the impact wrench do it all.

- Use penetrating oil on all fasteners before trying to remove them! I used PB Blaster.

Overall, the job wasn't as hard as I first thought it might be. This isn't a project for a beginner, but if you're confident handling jobs like shock absorbers and brake pad/shoe replacement, you should be able to handle Windstar struts without too much difficulty.

Here's a link to some pictures of my strut replacement project:

http://good-times.webshots.com/album/560513401mTnRfu

MUCH LATER EDIT: Webshots no longer hosts personal photos. Pictures for this job are now here:

http://s892.photobucket.com/user/e39701/library/Windstar%20strut%20project?sort=6&page=1

Nice work Phil! How's it ride? My dealer replaced both front struts, the stabilizer bar end links and the entire steering rack at just under 75Kmi on my 2001. All under the a/m warranty I had thank gawd. I noticed a tad better bounce control, but my front-end has never been clunkier (on rebound). I've never been able to locate the source.

Joel

Hey Phil

Good job friend. One question: how does the Wife feel about you doing the job on the dining room rug? :)

Phil-l,
Thanks so much for posting your experience with changing the struts.
I had always suspected that the job could be done without dropping the half shafts and lower control arm.....and it is good that it can be done without that.
I was not comfortable with my skills on those items...(things tend to not go as smoothly as the instructions state).
I had the Monroe "quick struts" installed this past spring, because one of my springs was broken (outside the 10 yr warranty).
I could not see having them put new springs on 11 year old struts with 183K miles on them.
I was going to try doing the job as you did, but was having other work done at this shop....and was not certain that my modified method would work....so I had them do the job.

rodeo02 - I haven't driven it much since replacing them, but the ride isn't terribly different. The old struts weren't in awful shape - but at 95K, it was time to replace them, plus I was trying to work this job around the need for new tires and a planned wheel alignment. I also recently replaced the rear shocks, which also helps.

Regarding front end clunks: You've already replaced the stabilizer bar ends (which is one potential source), so I'd check the stabilizer bar bushings.There are several places in that area that could cause clunks.

busboy4 - Doesn't everyone have an oriental rug in their garage? Quick story: A friend's basement flooded, and they were getting rid of the rug. I cleaned it up - and was surprised how nice it looked. My wife didn't agree (I wanted it for our basement) - so I put it in the garage. She now parks the Windstar on it!

wiswind - I was emboldened to try the Windstar struts after doing my Contour struts. To be honest, the Contour was a good bit more difficult: The ball joint must be removed from the knuckle to get enough access. You're right: Things don't always go as planned with such projects.

Regarding springs: I'm aware that some of the earlier model Windstars are noted for spring failure (I'm familiar with this: some Contour models share this affliction). But this problem seemed to disappear later on. My springs looked to be in fine shape, so I opted to re-use them.

Phil,

Great post. I was thininking about doing mine as well until I noticed that the CV boots were cracked and need replacing also.

Did you also replace the strut bearings as well?

jgattian -

I re-used the strut bearings (also known as the strut mounts; basically, the hardware at the top of the strut). There's really not much to them, and mine looked to be in fine shape.

In my (admittedly limited) experience, worn strut mounts are rarely a real problem. Auto parts places seem to push them; looks to be a good profit margin item...

CV boot cracks put you in the position of either replacing both the struts and the halfshafts - or just let a shop handle both while they've got it apart. No doubt about it: replacing the shafts is a big job. I'd be tempted to just let a shop handle it.

My method of extending CV boot life: I periodically wipe some CV joint grease on the outside of both the inboard and outboard boots (being careful to work the grease into the folds and make sure grease can't sling onto brake hardware). The grease slows the degradation of the plastic (Experiment: Next time you've got a cracked CV boot, look at the plastic *inside* of the boot. Still in nice shape, isn't it?). I carefully checked the boots on my 12 year old Contour during the strut job; they still look great, having been cared for this way since new.

Hey Phil, good for you, I still work on the concrete. I think you are onto something......

Anyway, like you I re-used my springs and strut mounts (125K) and all seems pretty well. No noise with the strut mounts now or before. I did the job per the book and pulled/disconnected everything as I had one CV shaft to replace at the same time. It was not too bad as I have had the lower suspension apart on a few other occasions.

Probably, if cash is not a huge problem I would suggest your technique for assembly/dis-assembly and the use of the quick strut replacements as probably the easiest way to tackle the job.

Good work.

busboy4 -

Did you have any problems removing or replacing the halfshaft? Does it really just slide out of the hub after removing the axle nut, or is a puller required?

busboy4 -

Did you have any problems removing or replacing the halfshaft? Does it really just slide out of the hub after removing the axle nut, or is a puller required?

Hi Phil

Yeah a puller is absolutely required. Due to a wheel bearing issue, I had the right half-shaft out at about the 100K point and it came out nicely with the puller. At 125K when I did the struts, I went ahead and changed out the left half-shaft. But that side was really tough - I actually stripped the threads of the puller! Now, I had not soaked it overnight with penetrating oil or anything, but clearly that would have been a good idea. Just after that long, it had really seated itself and with a little corrosion........That was the third or fourth shaft I had done and the only one to give me much grief.

Mel

busboy4 -

Thanks for the info. I haven't had to replace a halfshaft yet, but your warnings will be useful when that day comes.

Well, Webshots exited the personal photo hosting business, leaving my links to be yet another internet dead end.

I've since posted the same pictures here:

http://s892.photobucket.com/user/e39701/library/Windstar%20strut%20project?sort=6&page=1