Halfshaft removal

Hi All,

I'm trying to help a buddy out with his '00 Windstar. We're replacing an oil seal on the passenger side of the tranny, and are having difficulty pulling the halfshaft. We've got a Chiltons, but it's a little vague in parts. We have the rotor off, but not much further. We're hung up on which ball joints we're supposed to remove. Do I essentially unbolt everything that's attached to the strut ??? ( except the cap bolt of course... )

Thanks !!

-Scott

Welcome to the forums Captain-Fixit
This info is right out from my 2000 FORD Repair CD...
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2000 Windstar FRONT DRIVE HALFSHAFTS
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION


Removal

CAUTION:
Do not begin this procedure unless the following parts are available:

A new front axle wheel hub nut.
A new front suspension lower arm ball joint pinch bolt and nut.
A new circlip.

Do not reuse these parts during assembly. Their torque retention capability diminishes during removal.

Note:
This procedure applies to both the LH and RH halfshaft assemblies.

1. Raise and support the vehicle.

2. Remove the front wheel and tire assembly.

3. Insert a steel rod in the brake disc to prevent the halfshaft from turning while removing the front axle wheel hub nut.

4. CAUTION:
The front axle wheel hub nut uses a torque prevailing design. Do not reuse it.

Remove the wheel hub nut and washer.
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e77/Ed_Strong/FrtAxleNut4.jpg
Remove the steel rod from the brake disc.

5. Remove the front brake anti-lock sensor harness from the clip.
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e77/Ed_Strong/FrtBrkSensor5.jpg
6. Remove and position the front brake anti-lock sensor aside.
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e77/Ed_Strong/FrtBrkSensor6.jpg
7. Remove and discard lower arm ball joint pinch bolt and nut.

If necessary, use a punch and a hammer to drive the bolt out of the knuckle.
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e77/Ed_Strong/PinchBolt7.jpg
8. CAUTION:
Position the end of the pry bar outside the bushing pocket to avoid damage to the bushing.

CAUTION:
Do not damage the front wheel driveshaft joint boot.

Separate the front suspension lower arm from the knuckle.
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e77/Ed_Strong/PryBar8.jpg
9. CAUTION:
Never use a hammer to separate the front wheel driveshaft joint from the wheel hub. Damage to the joint threads and internal components can result.

Note:
Position a Puller on the wheel hub.

Using the Wheel Hub Remover (Puller), separate the front wheel driveshaft joint from the wheel hub.

10. CAUTION:
On the right side only, make sure the pry bar does not contact the speed sensor. Damage can result.

Using a pry bar, separate the inboard CV joint housing assembly from the transaxle.

11. CAUTION:
Do not damage the differential seal.

Carefully remove the halfshaft assembly with both hands.


Installation

1. Lubricate the differential seal.

2. CAUTION:
Install a new circlip every time you remove the halfshaft from the vehicle.

On the RH side only, install a new circlip.

Start one end in the groove and work the circlip over the shaft and into the groove. This will prevent the circlip from over-expanding.
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e77/Ed_Strong/Circlip2.jpg
3. CAUTION:
Do not damage the inboard CV joint housing assembly and the differential seal.

Note:
If necessary, use a non-metallic mallet to aid in seating the circlip in the differential side gear groove (RH) or inboard CV joint housing (LH). Tap only on the outboard front wheel driveshaft joint.

Carefully align the inboard CV joint housing splines with the differential side gear splines (RH) or output shaft splines (LH), and push the inboard CV joint housing assembly inward until the circlip seats in the differential side gear (RH) or inboard CV joint housing (LH).

4. Carefully align the front wheel driveshaft joint splines and the wheel hub splines, and push the joint into the wheel hub as far as possible.

5. Using the old nut, seat the front wheel driveshaft joint in the hub. Remove the old nut and discard it.

6. Connect the suspension lower arm to the knuckle.

7. CAUTION:
Install a new bolt and nut.

8. Install the front brake anti-lock sensor.

9. Install the front brake anti-lock sensor harness in the clip.

10. Install a steel rod in the brake disc to prevent the halfshaft from turning while installing the new front axle wheel end nut.

11. Apply a small patch of Loctite or equivalent meeting Ford specification to the last five front wheel driveshaft joint threads.

12. CAUTION:
Install and tighten the new front axle wheel end nut to specification in a continuous rotation. Stopping the rotation during installation will cause the nylon lock to set incorrectly. This will cause incorrect torque readings while tightening the end nut, and lead to bearing failure. Install a new front axle wheel end nut every time after loosening the end nut or not installing the end nut to specification in a continuous rotation.

Install and tighten the new nut to specification in a continuous rotation.

Remove the steel rod from the brake disc.

13. Install the wheel and tire assembly.

14. Lower the vehicle.

15. Check and, if necessary, fill the transaxle to the proper level.
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I hope that helps you in some way

Thanks Ed !! Your pictures are much better than the Chiltons. We had made it all the way to step 8 already without trouble, but seperating the lower ball joint is proving a challenge. We can get it to come out about 1/2" but that's it, it's almost impossible to get it to drop any lower. Any thoughts ? I was using a 5' piece of pipe.

Thanks !!

-Scott

Thanks Ed !! Your pictures are much better than the Chiltons. We had made it all the way to step 8 already without trouble, but seperating the lower ball joint is proving a challenge. We can get it to come out about 1/2" but that's it, it's almost impossible to get it to drop any lower. Any thoughts ? I was using a 5' piece of pipe.

Thanks !!

-Scott

Hi Scott,

On my '96 (which may have slightly different geometry than your '00) I use my floor jack handle (also about 5') to pry the ball joint. As I recall I slip it over the control arm and below the frame and push down. There may be a bit more resistance just before it pops out, but once it does there is quite a bit of free movement of the strut. Also, when time for re-assembly, the ball joint does not go back all that easily. I get mine generally lined up, and then slip my floor jack under the ball joint and then gently lift it to push it into place.

Good luck

Good advice busboy4

And to remove the lower ball joint, you could use the same idea with the floor jack to hoist the whole knuckle/strut assembly up a few inches and the you'll have the extra clearance for the prybar to do it's job.
On my 2000 the lower ball joint came right out without any big effort. It's not mentioned on the Ford CD, but I believe in the chilton manual it states to use a large flat head screwdriver or something similar to widen (spread apart) the space pinched by the pinch bolt and nut (see picture on step 7). That helps a lot too!
Oh and let me remind you need to use a new Wheel Hub/Axle Nut when you reassemble, very important!

The anti-sway bar may be your problem, especially if you have lifted only one side of the car. I find it easier to lift both sides, using jack stands, having both wheels in the air.