Caliper Anchor Plate Bolts/Spark Plugs
pperrichetti
08-01-2007, 09:18 AM
I am getting ready to replace the rotors and pads on my 2001 Ford Windstar. The service manual tells me to discard the caliper anchor plate bolts and replace with new. The local parts store did not have any but said it would be fine to reuse. What do I do?
I am also getting ready to do the whole P0171/P0174 TSB repair. In the process, I plan to change the spark plugs. I have a set of NGK double platinum plugs. I was given a gap setting of .054. The box of plugs says do not set or adjust gap due to possible damage to the fine center electrode. Do I leave the gap alone? Did I go overboard with the NGK plugs?
Thanks in advance for any help.
I am also getting ready to do the whole P0171/P0174 TSB repair. In the process, I plan to change the spark plugs. I have a set of NGK double platinum plugs. I was given a gap setting of .054. The box of plugs says do not set or adjust gap due to possible damage to the fine center electrode. Do I leave the gap alone? Did I go overboard with the NGK plugs?
Thanks in advance for any help.
Freakzilla69
08-01-2007, 09:56 AM
I didn't change the bolts when I replaced my rotors... I'm still alive so I guess it's OK.
As to the spark plugs, the guys here are probably going to tell you to use the Motorcraft or Autolite double platinum plugs. Those you have may be better and work but I don't know. I used the Autolite ones when I replaced mine and they work fine.
As to the spark plugs, the guys here are probably going to tell you to use the Motorcraft or Autolite double platinum plugs. Those you have may be better and work but I don't know. I used the Autolite ones when I replaced mine and they work fine.
Ed_Strong
08-01-2007, 11:24 AM
About the rotors... what service manual are you referring to? I have a 2000 Windstar LX and none of my manuals (Chilton, Ford CD & Ford Service Info) talk about discarding the caliper anchor plate bolts and replacing with new ones. Then again it could be one of those year specific deals.
I know on my 2000 LX most of the suspension parts DO need to get replaced if removed. Like when I replaced the right front wheel bearing I had to replace a lot of the suspension parts fasteners... (wheel hub retainer nut, tie-rod end cotter pin and the castellated nut, stabilizer bar link nut, ball joint pinch bolt and nut and the wheel bearing assembly bolts.
But in the process the caliper needs to be removed and the manuals I have don't say anything about replacing the caliper anchor plate bolts. I think you should be OK on that one!
BUT... If it makes you feel any better by replacing those bolts I would get them at the dealer. Of course they're going to charge an arm and a leg but if you go to Genuine Ford Parts (http://www.trademotion.com/storefront/index.cfm?action=contactus&siteid=213787) you'll get the parts at a fraction of what the dealer charges. Thats where I got all my fasteners at and saved a lot of money. I would call them cause their online parts catalog system don't always lists the part you're looking for.
On the spark plugs I would check the gap on the plugs because Ford calls for a specific setting and theres no way you'll know it unless you find out/check! I used the Autolite Double Platinum plugs when I did the P0171/P0174 TSB repair on mine and I'm very happy about their performance, but they were not set at the .054 gap. I had to set each one of them my self at the proper gap before installing them.
Unless you're trying to jam something in there other than a gap tool or using brute force, I don't see how you could damage to the fine center electrode if you know what your doing, unless they use saw dust and spit glue to put them together. Anyone with common sense can do it, but if you don't feel comfortable doing it, take them to a mechanic and have him check or set them for you at the specified gap. Think about it for a moment, if they're not set right and you have problems, you'll have to do the job all aver again for something that only takes a few minutes to do. Just take your time and be very gentle. If it was me and I could I would trade them for Autolites, they've been tried and tested here by us many times.
Hope everything works well for you. Post back if you need any help.
PS. I also recommend you get a spark plug wire removal tool... trust me you'll thank me later. And also remove the cowl and water spout from the back on the fire wall, it gives you a whole lot of room to play.
I know on my 2000 LX most of the suspension parts DO need to get replaced if removed. Like when I replaced the right front wheel bearing I had to replace a lot of the suspension parts fasteners... (wheel hub retainer nut, tie-rod end cotter pin and the castellated nut, stabilizer bar link nut, ball joint pinch bolt and nut and the wheel bearing assembly bolts.
But in the process the caliper needs to be removed and the manuals I have don't say anything about replacing the caliper anchor plate bolts. I think you should be OK on that one!
BUT... If it makes you feel any better by replacing those bolts I would get them at the dealer. Of course they're going to charge an arm and a leg but if you go to Genuine Ford Parts (http://www.trademotion.com/storefront/index.cfm?action=contactus&siteid=213787) you'll get the parts at a fraction of what the dealer charges. Thats where I got all my fasteners at and saved a lot of money. I would call them cause their online parts catalog system don't always lists the part you're looking for.
On the spark plugs I would check the gap on the plugs because Ford calls for a specific setting and theres no way you'll know it unless you find out/check! I used the Autolite Double Platinum plugs when I did the P0171/P0174 TSB repair on mine and I'm very happy about their performance, but they were not set at the .054 gap. I had to set each one of them my self at the proper gap before installing them.
Unless you're trying to jam something in there other than a gap tool or using brute force, I don't see how you could damage to the fine center electrode if you know what your doing, unless they use saw dust and spit glue to put them together. Anyone with common sense can do it, but if you don't feel comfortable doing it, take them to a mechanic and have him check or set them for you at the specified gap. Think about it for a moment, if they're not set right and you have problems, you'll have to do the job all aver again for something that only takes a few minutes to do. Just take your time and be very gentle. If it was me and I could I would trade them for Autolites, they've been tried and tested here by us many times.
Hope everything works well for you. Post back if you need any help.
PS. I also recommend you get a spark plug wire removal tool... trust me you'll thank me later. And also remove the cowl and water spout from the back on the fire wall, it gives you a whole lot of room to play.
RickMN
08-01-2007, 11:44 AM
On the caliper support plate..the reason they want you to use new bolts is because the old ones were coated with threadlocker compount. If you pick up a bottle of threadlocker and re-apply, you should be just fine. Or, you can buy new bolts that are pre-treated with threadlocker from Ford.
On the plugs--this is what happens when you move away from factory parts. If the gap of the NGK double plats is the same as factory spec, then they're fine to use. If the gap isn't adjustable and the gap isn't .054, you're going to have nothing but trouble.
Rick
On the plugs--this is what happens when you move away from factory parts. If the gap of the NGK double plats is the same as factory spec, then they're fine to use. If the gap isn't adjustable and the gap isn't .054, you're going to have nothing but trouble.
Rick
pperrichetti
08-01-2007, 11:24 PM
2001 Ford Windstar LX - Ford factory service manual states to discard caliper anchor plate mounting bolts and replace with new.
Two options, clean the threads and use Loctite, or buy new. Sounds like either will work.
NGK tells me that the gap is preset at .045" and is "close" enough to the recommended .054". So platinum is used to reduce the electrode erosion and give longer life, or reduced service intervals, but so delicate that setting the gap can damage? I am not a mechanic by trade, but have done all the work on my cars for years. I think I'll check and set the gap. Although, I may first return the plugs for less expensive Autolite or Champion double platinums.
I will definitely invest in the plug wire removal tool and post how the job turned out.
Two options, clean the threads and use Loctite, or buy new. Sounds like either will work.
NGK tells me that the gap is preset at .045" and is "close" enough to the recommended .054". So platinum is used to reduce the electrode erosion and give longer life, or reduced service intervals, but so delicate that setting the gap can damage? I am not a mechanic by trade, but have done all the work on my cars for years. I think I'll check and set the gap. Although, I may first return the plugs for less expensive Autolite or Champion double platinums.
I will definitely invest in the plug wire removal tool and post how the job turned out.
RickMN
08-02-2007, 01:30 AM
http://www.lislecorp.com/tool_detail.cfm?detail=934Here's the spark plug wire puller I like:
http://www.tooldiscounter.com/ItemDisplay.cfm?lookup=LIS51750
http://www.tooldiscounter.com/ItemDisplay.cfm?lookup=LIS51750
Ed_Strong
08-02-2007, 12:12 PM
You have no idea how much time I lost trying to get the three back plugs wires removed with my bare hands when I did the Isolator Bolt fix. I was tired and exhausted from the force I was applying trying to loosening them.
The problem is that you can't get a good position and your arm barely fits to grab the wire. The wires create a suction force on the plugs that's really hard to break if you don't have a good grip on them.
I had to use a garden tool that looks like a gasket scraper with a notch in the middle and that's the only way I got them off.
Make sure you break the seal by twisting them by hand first before you attemp to pull them out with the tool.
The problem is that you can't get a good position and your arm barely fits to grab the wire. The wires create a suction force on the plugs that's really hard to break if you don't have a good grip on them.
I had to use a garden tool that looks like a gasket scraper with a notch in the middle and that's the only way I got them off.
Make sure you break the seal by twisting them by hand first before you attemp to pull them out with the tool.
road_rascal
08-02-2007, 07:34 PM
Back plugs are easy to get at with the van hoisted/ jacked in the air and removing them from underneath. Worked for me :grinyes: !
Wa jang chang
03-22-2008, 01:50 PM
My wife's 2000 SEL got almost 100K miles, and I thought it needs new plugs and got me 6 Autolite platnium plugs. When I opened the hood I realized it would be more than I bargained for so I closed the hood. That was about 2 months ago. I still have the 6 plugs and have been contemplating if I should do it myself or take it to the Precison Tune Up. According to Road Rascal's posting, if I lift the van up it should be easy. I am going to take his advice. I know I can use the hydraulic lift at the local auto hobby shop for minimal fee. I will keep you posted on this.
Happy driving,
wa jang chang
Happy driving,
wa jang chang
northern piper
03-22-2008, 03:12 PM
alldatadiy.com does say to replace the caliper anchor bolts but, as well discussed above, is due to the locktite on them. I did buy the oem part the first time and they cost almost as much as the pad and rotors by the time I was done. Red locktite on them when replacing works fine.
Piper
Piper
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