Easiest way to change plugs/wires in 94 ranger 2.3l

I've recently tried changing the plugs in my 1994 Ranger. It's a 2wd 2.3L 4c and there are 8 spark plugs per cylinder. The problem lies in the fact that on the driver side of the engine, the intake manifold blocks almost complete access to the plugs and the wires. I have a Hayenes manual that says the easiest way to remove the plugs and wires is to remove the upper part of the manifold and then replace it when the plugs and wires have been changed. To me this seems like it would open up a whole new case of worms because then I will have to replace to gaskets on the manifold. If anyone knows an easier way to change the plugs and wires then I would surely like to know!:banghead:

I've recently tried changing the plugs in my 1994 Ranger. It's a 2wd 2.3L 4c and there are 8 spark plugs per cylinder. The problem lies in the fact that on the driver side of the engine, the intake manifold blocks almost complete access to the plugs and the wires. I have a Hayenes manual that says the easiest way to remove the plugs and wires is to remove the upper part of the manifold and then replace it when the plugs and wires have been changed. To me this seems like it would open up a whole new case of worms because then I will have to replace to gaskets on the manifold. If anyone knows an easier way to change the plugs and wires then I would surely like to know!:banghead:

I used extensions and a couple of flexible joints. Make sure you use an air hose (or can of air) to blow out the area around the thread holes before you remove the plugs. The reason you do this is because it is harder to get the plugs back in than out and you don't want to knock debris into the cylinder when stabbing them back in the hole. The heads are shaped so that it is not hard to get the plugs started, just go slow to avoid cross-threading.

I used extensions and a couple of flexible joints. Make sure you use an air hose (or can of air) to blow out the area around the thread holes before you remove the plugs. The reason you do this is because it is harder to get the plugs back in than out and you don't want to knock debris into the cylinder when stabbing them back in the hole. The heads are shaped so that it is not hard to get the plugs started, just go slow to avoid cross-threading.

Thanks for that thats what i was going to try and do. Like I said the Haynes manual said to take the manifold off and that seemed pointless to me. One more thing if you know. I need to know which plug wires go from which stud to which spark plug. I think I messed up the order on cylinders 1 and 2 on the exhaust side.:runaround:

Thanks for that thats what i was going to try and do. Like I said the Haynes manual said to take the manifold off and that seemed pointless to me. One more thing if you know. I need to know which plug wires go from which stud to which spark plug. I think I messed up the order on cylinders 1 and 2 on the exhaust side.:runaround:

I don't know off the top of my head, but I will tell you that you should order a Chiltons Manual (O'Reillys can get it for you for about $16) for that Ranger and toss the Haynes. Chiltons has much better instructions and photos.

Correction. You meant two plugs per cylinder.
OK. Cylinder and Terminal locations for 4 cylinder engines.

Cylinder Numbering: Standing in front of your P/U and looking towards the rear - 1,2,3,4
Coil Pack Numbering: Front to Rear Left Row: 1,4,2,3
Right Row: 3,2,4,1
Firing Order: 1,3,4,2

If I know i'm going to keep a car for a while i get both Haynes and Chiltons.

I change mine in about 20 minutes with a snap on swivel spark plug socket. It really makes it simple. remember to blow out the hole after loosing the plug

No, No, No, No. Do not remove the head, manifold or anything else. I found a way to do this, and it is sleazy easy. Change your plugs, and wires about every thirty thousand miles.

Mac636 has it correct. You can do this, as I do, with a 3/8 ratchet and extensions. The very first thing you need to have though is a spark plug boot puller-do not pull them by hand-they will break. I then use a "wobble" socket spark plug socket attached to an extension, or two, and it will slide beautifully down into the plug bay. Slowly loosen, or tighten. Do not crank on them hard. I have done this for years and it works fantastic.

By the way, this is why my 1994 has 163,000K and stil runs like brand new.