2.7L V-6 Oil Weight

OK, I have a 2003 dodge stratus with the 2.7L V-6 with 35,000 miles on it. .The owners manual says to run it on either 10W-30 or 5W-30 depending on the outside air temperature. Seeing how I live in the southern plains I've always used 10W-30. For many years now I've noticed that whenever I have the oil changed it will knock for about a week afterwards, and then go back to normal. This is kind of an off beat non-constant valve knock. For example (“knock, smoother for a few seconds, knock-knock, smooth for a few seconds, knock-knock-knock, smooth, ect). Ok, so the last time I took it in the dealer claims that Chrysler has revised the lubrication requirement for the 2.7L V-6 and now it is better to run it on 5W-20. So that is what I got. This time I noticed my engine knocked harder than usual and for about 2 weeks before going back to normal. My question is; I know Chrysler has made several improvements to the 2.7L over the years. At first it had a problem with crank case venting and oil sludge build up. It is also said that the oil pick-up tubes were too narrow and had to many bends in them for adequate flow, and some of the bearings in the engine spun which caused it to knock. My understanding is that most of these problems have been corrected, and atleast some before and incorporated into the 2003 model year. So is this new oil weight only for the current production 2.7L or is it best for mine too. I’m somewhat weary about changing to a lighter oil on an engine that is already several years old, especially since it made it sound worse, atleast at first. So what should I do? Go back to 10W-30 or shoot for a middle ground of 5W-30 or take the manufactures recommendation of 5W-20. Comments, Suggestions, has anyone else with a 2.7L experienced these issues?
By the way, it also pings in the summer regardless of the octane of the gas I use. But not in the winter when it is cold outside.

Thanks,

You can try varying your oil grades based on the season. Try the 5-20 if you have cold winters. And the 10-30 in the summer. In more extreme climates like where I live near Phoenix, or up north with colder winters, I can see a use for a slightly different viscosity. However the change the dealer mentions is so small, I would think the benefits are rather small as well. I'm not accounting for the design flaws you spoke of when I make these assumptions. They're just generalties that can apply to most cars. Did you try switching back and did you have similar issues again in the first 2 weeks on the other grade? In different seasons? The grades have more to do w/ viscosity variations. (you know, higher number, thicker oil, etc) Auto makers are also using thinner oil to increase the fuel efficiency to meet the EPA requirements (or whatever agency regulates the avg MPG for a fleet). If you live in a temperate climate like the coastal areas around Los Angeles or San Diego, you could even use plain old 30 weight. Not many people would do that, but you can, and I did in my older cars for quite some time when I lived there. That's just an example btw.

As for the knocking, well keep in mind the possibility that those issues may not have been fixed as well as you are led to believe. It is a dodge after all. They could be fixed as you said, but keep that in the back of your mind while you try other possibilities. Sounds like it's time for some shade tree troubleshooting. Take a long screwdriver, or metal rod (not close to the fan or the belts though) and use it like a stethoscope to try to pinpoint the source. Touching one end to your earlobe, and the other on different parts of the engine block.
Also listen to see if there is any constant rhythm to the knocking sound. If so, maybe an accessory, or the even belt itself. Then there's also the much loved warranty method of getting it repaired ;) It should still be covered under a drivetrain warranty at the vary least. Should being the operative word here. Also swing by the dealer right after the oil is changed and have them listen to it.