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Hideous Squeak from my '94 SL2


Casuality
07-07-2007, 06:19 PM
Yo, first thread/post -

I've got a '94 SL2 with under 50k mileage on it. I know for a fact I need to replace the serpentine belt; I'm incredibly lazy so I really am bad about maintainance of my vehicle.

So I start up my car, it sounds fine, idle is normal, I put it in gear and then start to move, the moment the wheels start to turn I hear this high pitched squeaking -- it sounds almost like it's coming from under the hood leading me to think that it is the serpentine belt or the tensioner. It doesn't squeak when it idles however, just in motion and if I take a wider turn the squeak stops momentarily; occasionally the squeak is totally gone but usually it comes back.

I'm kinda get nervous since it's been squeaking for almost two weeks. I'm replacing the serpentine belt next Friday and when I do, I'll check the tensioner. But I'm hoping it's nothing pricey and not something I can't fix on my own.

I'm just curious on what else it may be, I know the alternator was replaced last December and prior to this, my ride just had a light squeak when I braked. Dunno...

Any ideas?

My e-brake light is on too but I think I just need to adjust the cord, the e-brake is kinda weak though (doughnut).

Casuality
07-07-2007, 06:31 PM
Also, my car vibrates a fair amount. I never really thought about it, but bearings maybe? I'll check all the pulleys when I take off the serpentine belt.

Except wouldn't my car squeak when it's idling? It doesn't ever squeak when idling only when moving and when I'm driving the sound almost sounds "circular" making me think something about my rotors. The squeak dies down when I come to complete stop or when I'm slowly moving or slowing down (1-5MPH).

Could my rotors/brakes be an issue? Even the calipers if they're too tight? Also if I drop by and get a free inspection from Meineke or Les Schwab are they just gonna try and bullshit me and make me do it? I hardly like trusting my car to Jiffy Lube even though they have yet to screw me.

Now it's just bugging me.

One more: would my e-brake light indicate my normal brakes need to be checked?

Cat Fuzz
07-07-2007, 08:17 PM
Could be wheel bearings or worn brake pads or something else rubbing. Don't take it to either of those places you mentioned. They will tell you that you need your entire brake system replaced.

yaz4real
07-07-2007, 08:49 PM
Sounds like your brakes need some attention. You should do it sooner then later if the brake warning light is on.

Since the Saturn is an economical vehicle, the only parts on it that seems to fair well in an accident when it can't stop is the headlights. With that in mind, pads and rotors are a likely remedy along with the rear brakes readjusted. If you can do the work yourself, you'll save over $100, if not, pay the piper.

Casuality
07-07-2007, 10:09 PM
I can afford to buy pads, I can't afford rotors though.

I'm just gonna jack up my car or old SKOOL it with a curb and take off one of my front tires. Best way to know, is to check.

I checked my serpentine belt and I feel that the Jiffy Lube jackaninny was lying when he told me it needed to be replaced. He said it was cracking all over -- the deepest crack was less than 1mm so I'm calling BS on that guy, especially since no other symptoms of a bad or worsening serpentine are present. I'll check it out again in a month. Man, I liked that guy too, he gave me a canned soda.

They also told me they topped off my coolant (LIES!!!).

I hate Jiffy Lube but they do change my oil well. I hope at least.

I'm definitely leaning towards the brakes being the issue. I appreciate the tips.

Also, does the finger test for serpentine belts still apply? Like applying pressure to test it's elasticity?

Thanks you guys!

sierrap615
07-08-2007, 12:26 AM
Also, does the finger test for serpentine belts still apply? Like applying pressure to test it's elasticity?

except for V-belts, thats more for checking the tensioner, the key with serpentine belts is checking the ribs for cracks

Casuality
07-08-2007, 02:59 AM
Gotcha.

Would the edges of the belt be frayed?

Also, I'm almost positive the squeak is coming from my brakes or around them. But if someone could confirm -- would my squeak occur if the car was idling or if I rev my engine, assuming it's the serpentine?

My squeak is only when the car is moving. It occasionally stops when I drive over a speed bump or take a wider turn. The squeak sounds faster as my tires spin faster, it also sounds slower when I'm going slower; not when my RPM rises or declines.

I looked under my car when it was still a bit light out and there was tons of gunk around just about everything, I'm taking my tire off tomorrow then some truth will be revealed.

Casuality
07-08-2007, 07:48 PM
I'm quite possibly the biggest loser in the world.

When I took off one of my front tires (right side) I noticed a scrape on my rotor, not deep but a single obvious line. I felt around the pad/caliper and saw a little thin piece of metal caught between the pad and the rotor. It looked like it was attached to the pad on the side. I bent the little thing out and KAZAAM! my squeak subsided. My brakes are still a bit whiney, not grindy, but whiney.

I appreciate the help guys.

yaz4real
07-08-2007, 08:44 PM
Looking at your post to think your a winner actually. A 1994 Saturn with 50k... thats big. Secondly, your smart enough to post your problem. get some tips and find out for yourself what the issue is.

THe piece of metal you found may be the warning device installed to tell you your pads need to be replaced.

Your car with the year of 1994 is aging by not only mileage. The vibration you feel is likely the upper engine mount needing replacement. You will need to replace the serpentine belt as advised.

Therefore, front brakes and pads; serpentine belt and an upper engine mount...$200 and your own labor... is a great running car.

You must know that the Saturn is an easy car to maintain but it needs to be maintained to schedule if you want it to last. You are approaching the 60k interval and suggest you start saving for it if a budget is of concern. Without a handle on its maintainence, the car will fail quickly and go beyond economical feasibility to repair.

I like most of the poeple who post here, would love to get their hands on a car like yours with 50k.
Hopefully, these post will help you.

http://autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/19/ac/f0/0900823d8019acf0/repairInfoPages.htm

http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/showthread.php?t=74163

http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/showthread.php?t=24000

http://www.saturnfans.com/forums/showthread.php?t=33273

Casuality
07-08-2007, 09:18 PM
Once again, I really appreciate the help.

I noticed that the pads were fairly thin.

When I get paid I'm gonna just splurge and replace my front axel brakes.

When I do that I'll check out those engine mounts and check out my serpentine a bit more thoroughly.

By the way, I went back to that Jiffy Lube and very angrily asked them to fill up my coolant. That place is full of goobers and people who fear confrontation, so for those who still go to Jiffy Lubes just make sure your in their face or atleast watching them carefully.

Is there anything that this model is notorious for? It's got a DOHC 1.9 L I4 LL0 engine -- not sure if I needed to say that...

yaz4real
07-08-2007, 09:38 PM
Nothing real notorious other than an owner that doesn't maintain it.

Change the oil and filter every 3k without fail. The radiator has a tendency to fail with a crack along the tank on the driver's side. Your model year in the DOHC is sturdy and built to last if maintained. Get use to checking the oil at filling up the fuel. Add oil to keep it at the full level as much as possible instead of letting it down to a quart needing to add. The engine will develop timing chain and other wear issues without a proper oil level.

The original engine coolant temperature sensor was of plastic/resin that cracked and failed allowing the PCM to think the temperature is cold therefore flooding the engine with fuel causing hard starts and rich fuel conditions and their related problems. The sensor is changed easily with a brass one available at the dealer and most auto parts stores for about $15.

Refer the the website with the links posted prior for added info on the Saturn S series. That forum is vibrant with help and experienced owners.

Casuality
07-08-2007, 10:07 PM
Thanks for tips.

Should I use the fancy oil or can I stick with using my cheap-o Chevron bought brand?

I've never known the difference. I've used oil treatment goop before and I've tried to use some products that we're supposed to clean out my engine but I've never really noticed anything audibly different.

yaz4real
07-09-2007, 08:03 AM
I use a common 10w30 in the winter. April thru October, I use a Shell Rotella 15w40. The detergents in this oil help keep its internals clean. I have done a piston soak with Seafoam and also taken the throttle body off for cleaning. The EGR will carbon up whereas taking it off and cleaning underneath to allow the pintle to operate freely and seat properly will help. My automatic transmission went and I swapped in a 5 speed with new clutch. The automatic transmission has some quirks since it depends on electro-mechanical solenoids for shifting. If the alternator begins to fail, the transmission may have issues too. Both type of transmissions have a "dif pin" problem that causes the transmission to go to failure by cracking the housing. Some people have the pin welded in so it can not fall out and do the damage. I use Mobil 1 transmission fluid. If you have an automatic transmission, servicing the transmission fluid and filter every 30k is a must.

Use a common copper type spark plug like NGK, Autolite or Champion. The platinum plug seems to do fine for 500 miles and then cause misfires. The Saturn has a waste spark management system where the cooper plug operates best over the life of the plug.

There is nothing fancy to do with these cars in regards to additives, special parts for efficiency or the like. If one checks the oil frequently, maintains it to the service specs, this little plastic coated car will run for quite awhile.

Casuality
07-09-2007, 01:27 PM
Awesome that's what I like to hear.

I had a 1990 Subaru Loyale with like 200k on it, I drove that car into the ground. I learned from those mistakes with my next car, a 1990 Lexus Es250 with 90k on it -- that car had a cracked engine after I put another 2k on it. I should've checked it out much sooner then I did but I was broke as a joke. By the time I checked the car it was going to cost almost as much as I paid ($1200). Craigslist has some awesome deals.

I'm definitely trying to keep this Saturn up to par.

RickMN
07-15-2007, 04:40 PM
Try this method for diagnosing the noise:

http://free-auto-repair-advice.blogspot.com/2007/07/diagnosis-squeaks-and-squeals.html

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