96 Sebring NO start NO spark

(96 sebring 2.5L) reviewed various posts, looking for input before I start replacing parts

No spark at cyls 2,4,6 (did not want to remove intake to get to rear plugs)

verified voltage at injector at crank
verified voltage at 2-pin distributor connector at crank
verified coil resistance at 2-pin distr connector (@ 1.4 ohms, Chiltons says .6 - .8)
verified secondary resistance ( @7.28K ohms, chiltons says 12-18K ohms)
verified distributor cap resistance ( @5.5K ohms)

Since I still don't have any spark, how can I verify if the crank sensor is good or bad? Is there something esle broken?

I Am Having The Same Problem With A Car At My Shop. IT IS A 98 2.5L SEABRING COUPE. Everything Tests Ok But Still No Spark So I Started Throwing Parts At It. Crank Position Sensor, Distributor, Plugs, Wires, Battery, Everything We Could Think Of. We Did Notice Though That If We Put A Battery Charger On The Car It Would Fire Right Up And Would Continue To Start Even After The Charger Was Removed For A While. Almost Like The Ignition System Doesn't Have Enough Spark Without The Charger. If We Let It Sit The Problem Comes Back. It Almost Seems Like There Is A Capacitor That Is Not Holding The Charge But None Of Us Have Any Clue Where To Go Next. Any Ideas Would Be A Life Saver & If I Figure It Out I Will Let You Know.

My problem was resolved by replacing the distributor. The car started, but I started to notice an ignition miss. Further diagnosis indicated an misfire on cyl #4. The shop suggested that the arcing #4 plug wire could have led to the distributor coil pack failure.

Re: charging the battery and then it starts, perhaps the battery is weak and not enough voltage for the ignition system to funtion properly. Check the battery voltage or take it to the shop and have the charging system checked out.

I Have a 98 limited conv/ with the same problem. I have replaced the distributor and the fuel filter and pump (it needed it anyway 134k) still no start. the weird thing is that it ran fine, pulled in the carport late Saturday evening and Sunday morning it would not start. I have checked the auto shutdown relay by suggestion from a chrysler mechanic but still will not start. I am only guessing that it may be in the ignition switch for the chipped key, I have tried 3 seperate keys but it still will not start, it just turns over. I have no fire and no fuel pressure. Any help would be greatly appreciated before i have to take it to the dealer and refinance the car on repair.

I have the same problem with my 97 lxi 2.5L V6. I replaced the distributor. Plugs/wires, cap and rotor are new. I changed out the crank position sensor and O2 sensors. Sometimes it will start and run fine. Other times it wont. Just cranks and cranks. I used a code reader on it and it said random misfire but the code went away when I changed the distirbutor and other ignition parts. I am getting tired of throwing money and time at. Any suggestions or other things to look at would be appreciated.

I hope this helps somebody. I have a 2000 coupe 2.5 V6 that had the same problem. I replaced the crank position sensor and complete distributor with no help. The car would sometimes start right up, other times it would just crank. I asked at least 3 professional mechanics about replacing the auto shutdown relay, but all 3 said that it cannot be that, because it sometimes starts. They also said that a relay is either good or bad, nothing in between. One day after the car would not start after several attempts, I tapped the relay, turned the key, and it started right up. I installed a new shutdown relay over 4 months ago and the car has been trouble free since. Start with the relay, it is the least expensive. On my car it is located in the engine compartment on the driver's side firewall. There are 3 relays in a row, it is the center one.

same deal.. no spark, no start on 1997 2.5 liter chrysler sebring. Replaced crank sensor and entire distributor and still same thing... HOWEVER.. after brainstorming, friend and I, concerned about crank sensor fine adjustment tried something. Being there are no moving parts on that end, we loosened the crank sensor just enough to move it around by hand, I cranked the engine and he moved the sensor around and WALA ... it fired up. After some trial and error (its hard to access) we found the sweet spot and tightened it up and it runs fine. These crank sensors are very picky on adjustement tolerance. If you have replaced the crank sensor and distributor, try that.

I had the same issue on my 97 sebring 2.5 v6. I performed several checks on the eletrical system. I found after checking the ohms at the distributor and coil and they were in spec. After testing for spark coming out of my coil, I had no spark. So I went out and both a distributor and bench tested it and performed the test and got spark. Installed the new distributor and the car started right up
Hope this helps out.