Spring Update

Just thought I would post what I have planned this year. I'm bored at work today and don't have anything to do. :icon16:

I got the Spyder uncovered and out of storage on Saturday only to find that I had a battery dead enough that it wouldn't start the car. I expected the battery to be dead, since I don't start the car over the winter. I leave the battery on just to keep the security system on while she sits. It has a 24 month replacement, so I just went and picked up a new one from the parts store. So I get the new battery installed and she fires up first try. Woo Hoo, things are looking good. :naughty: Well, almost.......

I take a look at the SAFC and see that the voltage to the ECU is 12.2v. Something isn't right. I decided to go get my logger, which I left at the freakin' house, just to be sure. Get home to find out that I forgot to charge the Palm over the winter so now I have to load pocketlogger on the palm again. Damnit. Then I realize that I got a new computer and forgot to download and install the desktop software. Anyway, I get the logger all fixed up, grab some lunch and go back over to the storage garage.

Plug in the logger and see the same 12.2v. Crap, now I need to have the charging system checked. I run the car down the road (about 2 miles) to AutoZone only to find out that they don't test charging systems. Dirtbags. :disappoin So I decide to call Advanced and order a new alternator. I didn't want to drive the car too much because I was too lazy to get another battery and didn't want to get stranded with the car.

They were able to get the alternator ordered and I picked it up on Sunday.....$202 down the tube. Anyway, I get the car to my parents house, since I don't have a garage at my house, and start yanking out the old alternator. It took about 1 1/2 hours to do the swap and we were all ready to fire it up. Works like a charm!!!! Consistent 14.1v on both the logger and the SAFC.

Now it's time for the rest of the stuff. I checked for leaks and didn't find any, then decided to take a look at the FT's. Everything was fine last year, but I noticed that the the LT and ST were running about 8 - 10% higher than they were before and my idle was down to 650rpm when the car was warmed up. I dialed down the correction on the SAFC and had them back to 0 in no time. Oddly enough, the idle came back up to 750 when I got the FT's taken care of. I never thought there would be a correlation between FT's and idle. :confused: I guess it's time for a PCV valve. That should bring them back to where they were last year.

Took her out for a spin at 23psi and had forgotten how fast she really was. Holy crap, I think I started giggling. :grinyes: Anyway, the tune is solid, drops to 8 degrees as the boost hits and peaks around 21 or 22 degrees. No dips, or big flat spots. Nice! Time for a beer.

Today I decided that I was going to order everything for the timing belt job. I had it done about 5 years ago, but I have only driven the car about 4k in the last 5 years. I wasn't sure it was necessary, but better safe than sorry. Picked up the timing belt, balancer belt, idler pully, water pump, tensioner bearing and the BS tensioner. Got everything from Extreme MotorSports for about $325. I was a little shady about using non OEM belts, but Sean assured me that I would have no problems with them. Apparently they use Gates belts on their race cars and he promised that he had never had a problem with them. Now that I'm having the water pump replaced I can finally get rid of that damn antifreeze drip. Apparently the o-ring where the water pump meets the water pipe is shot and I get a very slow drip when driving. That's probably what took out the alternator.

I also decided to pull the trigger on a cat back, which should shut some of you guys up around here. :grinno: Everyone used to pick on me all the time for refusing to upgrade the catback.........for those of you who wern't around back then. I talked extensively with Sean Glazer at Extreme and he was helping me pick an exhaust. I wanted something as quiet as possible and as inconspicious as possible. I had hear a lot about the Thermal R&D, which he said wasn't that quiet. He told me that quietest exhaust was the Greddy EVO 2. He also said that the tip was smaller than most of them, coming in at 4". He also told me that the tip was located at the bottom of the muffler, thereby hiding the muffler under the car more. All that sounded good to me, so I pulled the trigger for $615.

Thank god the wife didn't give me any crap when I told her what I spent. Not that she has any room to bitch, since I have to spend about 10k putting new windows in the house this summer. Anyway, I was out the door $945 later. I called my mechanic and told him everything was on it's way, since there is no freakin' way I'm going to do the timing belt myself. That and I did a bunch of computer work for him over the years so I have about 12h of free labor that I'm going to cash in.

Everything should be installed and running in about 2 weeks, depending on when the parts arrive. Hopefully I don't hate the exhaust. I'm just so afraid that it's going to be really freakin' loud and I'm going to have to rip it off and put back the stock cat back. If so, I'll post it in the classified section before sticking it on ebay.

Wow, my fingers hurt, so I'll stop for now. :p

:lol: Nice man. Another thing you can do to keep it quite is either leave in the cat or get a new high flow cat, or put a resonator in there. You'll like it dude, trust me :).

Thanks Thor :) I plan on keeping the high flow cat in and was told by Sean that it would bolt right up to their cat. I just realized that I forgot to ask if there was a bung for the rear O2 sensor. Crap!

going from 2.5 to 3in ehhh? I'm going to have to take back what I said a couple years ago.. :D

yes there is a bung.

you will love the exhaust. even with no cat it purred. sounded like a V8 most of the time. it's not highpitched loud, but rather very rumbling loud. very deep low tones. you will see...

yes there is a bung.

you will love the exhaust. even with no cat it purred. sounded like a V8 most of the time. it's not highpitched loud, but rather very rumbling loud. very deep low tones. you will see...

I'm guessing that you used to run the EVO 2? I'm just glad to hear that there will be no bumblebee associated with this exhaust. :)



going from 2.5 to 3in ehhh? I'm going to have to take back what I said a couple years ago.. :D

Yep, finally going to replace the cat back......I'm courious to see how much airflow I'll pick up with no changes other than the exhaust. Seeing as I did the exhaust pretty much last, as opposed to doing it first. We've all been hearing forever that the exhaust is such a huge restriction, I guess I'll find out soon enough.

Hummm......That could be a pretty interesting poll.

Damnit!!!!!!!!!!!

Well, I was taking her to the garage last night and jumped on the expressway. My wife was following and I decided to give it hell when I pulled out. The tach hit 4k or so and guess what.......my clutch is smoked. The tach went right through the roof.

I guess it's time for a clutch. :banghead:

Hopefully I can have one overnighted so my mechanic can get all this work done by Friday. He isn't open on the weekend and I leave for business trip on Tuesday.

Yikes!!!!

Well, I just got off the phone with Extreme MotorSports and ordered everything I need for the clutch job.

-Hyperdrive C2 Clutch disk with a 6-puck Pressure Plate (http://www.extrememotorsports.com/catalog/Hyperdrive-C2-Street-Strip-Full-Clutch-Kit-90-99-Eclipse-Talon--p-32872.html)

-Hyperdrive Metalfly Lightweight Flywheel (http://www.extrememotorsports.com/catalog/Hyperdrive-Metalfly-Lightweight-Flywheel-90-99-Eclipse-Talon-Ga-p-32873.html)

-Stainless Steel Clutch Line

-Clutch Fork and Fulcrum

All for the low, low price of $882.87 :banghead: Damn, I'm going to hit the $3,000 mark in not time. Maybe the wife isn't getting new windows for the house this year.

Maybe the wife isn't getting new windows for the house this year.

DSM > house upgrades. :p

DSM > happy signifigant other

my GF let out the truth about the Spyder after it was gone:

too loud, smelled like exhaust way too much, too loud, not enough things to hold on to, and i was always tinkering with something on it [everytime i walked by it i was drawn to grab a tool of some sort, DSMitis i call it]

god i loved that car.

and yes i was the very happy owner of an Evo 2. best. exhaust. ever.

but i would really go with the ACT 2600 and a Fidanza Flywheel. just my opinion though.

DSM > house upgrades. :p

Yeah, that works for me, but try and tell that to my wife. :grinyes:

but i would really go with the ACT 2600 and a Fidanza Flywheel. just my opinion though.

That was what I had in mine initially, but after talking to Sean at Extreme, he convinced me to go with the Hyperdrive setup. His explanation was that the additional leverage needed for releasing the clutch wasn't directed at the thrust bearing.

Sounded good to me, although I can't find any information here, at tuners, or talk about the Hyperdrive. I guess I'll be the first. :uhoh:

I'll tell your wife that car upgrades far outweigh upgrading anything else :grinyes:.

I was hoping I wouldn't have to post something like this, but here it goes:

My mechanic, and friend, I've had for 6 years is never going to see my car again. I'm also planning on asking the 8 or 10 customers I've gotten him never to go back again.

They FU$KED up my car so bad it isn't even funny. Let's see where do I start......

1.) Apparently they didn't put a support on the jack when they jacked up the motor to work on the timing belt and caved in my oil pan.

2.) They didn't tighten the alternator properly which caused the belt to jump and shread.

3.) The shreaded belt from the alternator took out the PS pump belt, so I had to replace that as well.

4.) They screwed up my perfect paint job, not horribly, but bad enough.

5.) They stripped the stud on the transmission that bolts to the passinger side motor mount.

6.) I found 2 bolt holes in the tranny that are missing bolts.

7.) Apparently they bent the transmission spline when doing the clutch installation.

Needless to say, the car is basically undrivable from a stop. It shakes violently when I try to pull out in 1st gear and when I try to downshift. I am so freakin' pissed off I can barely think.

Nothing like taking an absolutely perfect car to a mechanic and getting back one that's so fu$cking screwed up I want to puke.

A$$HOLES!!!!!!!!!

Wow im sorry to hear that man...all those mistakes sound pretty amatuer too...

Wow...thats fucked up man....they better be paying for the repairs that need to be made....they need to pay whatever shop you take to.

That was my wife's thinking, but I'm not so sure. They want me to bring it back and let them do the repairs, but frankly I don't trust them anymore. How can you be so blatently irresponsible. Like WaFFeL said, those are amateur mistakes.

I called Sean at Extreme and he told me that he can get me fixed up for about $530. So I'm thinking that spending that at Extreme and having it done properly, is worth not having to fight with them to get the money back.

How in the hell do you bend the spline? How the hell do you ef something up that bad and expect the customer to be happy? When the bolts were missing from your tranny, were they like "o well, were not getting paid for this anyway" thats bullshit.

I'd have Extreme do it, they've hooked you up and they probably not out to screw you.

sry to hear it man... That's why I do the work on my DSMs...

I made the mistake of letting my close friends doing my clutch, when I first bought the Talon... Couple of months later, I found out that was a mistake. Missing dowel pins destroyed two trans, a clutch, and axles...

GL on getting things straightened out

Anyone out there with a sprung 6-puck clutch? I'm trying to figure out if my excessive chatter is normal. Can you list your experience?

Thanks!

4-puck DD, no chatter... TOB noise was extremely excessive, but I was a cheap ass and used clutch kit TOB... the TOB later was destroyed...

The clutch was fine though... if it wasn't for flexing hydraulic lines, the engagement would have been very direct, a little heavier on the clutch pedal (not unbearable though), and great holding capacity (never slipped)

I guess you aren't local to Central PA??

Is there anyone out there running a 6-puck disk that would mind giving me a ride in their car?

I guess you aren't local to Central PA??

Is there anyone out there running a 6-puck disk that would mind giving me a ride in their car?

Sry, in NC... and I couldn't give you a ride if you got here... I've torn apart the motor in the FWD, and the trans crapped out (as did the clutch, but not due to manufacturer's flaw).

The AWD is ATX(for now), and motor's apart for a build... so it'd be a no go on either Talon... sry.

Dude if you go to extreme have them fix everything and have the other shop pay the bill as long as the work is to fix their shitty job they are legally responsible for the repairs whether its at their shop or not

Good god Spyder.. Thats fawked^

Well, 4 weeks later and I'm still dealing with this. I took the car back to the original shop because of the conversation I had with the owner, who has been a really good friend of mine for years. He apologized about 30 times and said that there is no way the car should have ever left the shop like that. I'm not sure his head mechanic is going to like me anymore because the owner gave him an ear full.

The owner told me that he would do whatever it took to fix all of the problems. He said it didn't matter how much it cost and that he would take care of everything. I can deal with that, since I understand that shit happens.

As for the clutch, that's something we need to take a look at. He said they are going to go ahead and pull the tranny again and remove all the clutch components. If it was a problem on their end, he said that I wouldn't get charged for anything and they would buy me whatever clutch I wanted to replace this one if this one was damaged because of an installation problem. On the other hand, if it's just an inherent thing with this 6-puck clutch, the I'll have to pay for the labor.

No problem, since it wouldn't be their fault if I was lead "astray" by Extreme. I talked to Extreme and was told that I could get the C1 full disk clutch for $145 and it would work with the existing PP and flywheel. They are going to have everything pulled apart for me on Tuesday and he wants me to stop in and verify that everything looks good before we attribute the problems to the clutch being a 6-puck.

If it is a problem with the 6-puck, I'll go ahead and have the full disk shipped while they take care of installing the new oil pan. The goal is to have everything done by Friday, so I can have the car back for the weekend. Too bad I leave on business again next Monday for a week. Damn, the car has been out of storage for a month and I've only gotten to drive it back and forth to the shop.

Oh, I'm thinking about picking up a Methanol Injection this week.....Just don't tell my wife. :)

I have a 6 puck in mine and its been by far the best clutch/disk combo i've ever had

Do you have a problem with clutch chatter?

Well, even after spending a dump truck load of money on the Spyder this year, I just pulled the trigger on a CoolingMist Water Injection kit. I got the 150psi pump with a single nozzle. I also opted to get the clogged nozzle detector along with an upgraded, angled injector.

I had to purchase some extra high pressure hose since I'm going to be using the stock tank and it only comes with 10 feet. Hopefully I can find a way to get the hose and wires from the trunk through the top area. Don't know if that's possible, but we'll see.

Total bill was just shy of $300 with shipping.

Niiice... lemme know how that works out. I'm interested in injection, just don't know too much about it.

I typically give a shop that screwed up one chance to make it right before I go elsewhere. Sometimes things just happen. New guy works on it, etc. Shit, I've done 100 clutch swaps and I still end up with stripped studs on the tranny mount sometimes. These cars are old rusty shitboxes now. :)

A 6 puck is going to chatter a bit when new, hard to get around it. My 2900 lb twin metallic was nearly impossible to drive for about 300 miles. I sitll find it quite aggrevating most of the time start to get the car moving, but part of the problem is Revolver cams, 8" of vacuum, and AEM running speed density... Any pucked clutch is a bit aggressive for a street car, you have to be willing to deal with the BS, especially during break-in.

Sounds like you're making some nice progress with the car, nice work.

I typically give a shop that screwed up one chance to make it right before I go elsewhere. Sometimes things just happen. New guy works on it, etc. Shit, I've done 100 clutch swaps and I still end up with stripped studs on the tranny mount sometimes. These cars are old rusty shitboxes now. :)


At first I was pretty pissed, but after talking to the owner I have cooled down. They are getting me a new bracket for the tranny because of the stripped stud. He is also going to purchase a new oil pan and gasket from the dealer to take care of the dent in the old one.

I was also told that he is going to re-imburse me for the price of the shreaded belts, the time it took me to install them and knock down the price because of my aggravation. So I'm happy now. :)


A 6 puck is going to chatter a bit when new, hard to get around it. My 2900 lb twin metallic was nearly impossible to drive for about 300 miles. I sitll find it quite aggrevating most of the time start to get the car moving, but part of the problem is Revolver cams, 8" of vacuum, and AEM running speed density... Any pucked clutch is a bit aggressive for a street car, you have to be willing to deal with the BS, especially during break-in.


Sean at Extreme told me that there was no break-in required with the C2 clutch kit and that the engagement wouldn't get any better with time. From tons and tons of research, after my purchase :disappoin , I've come to the same conclusion about the 6-puck. They finished pulling the tranny yesterday and said that everything looked fine. I'm going to go ahead and pick up the C1 full street disk today and have it overnighted. Sean told me that it will engage just like the stock clutch did.

Sounds like your twin metallic is even more of a bear to drive. I just couldn't handle something like that.....Plays hell on the Sunday drive with the wife, especially if she would want to drive.


Sounds like you're making some nice progress with the car, nice work.

Thanks!!!! :)

I'm getting there. Actually, I'm almost done. After I install the WI, the last thing I have to get is a chip to control the excessive timing from the SAFC. But then again, if I can run a 50/50 mix with the WI, I might be able to get away with that timing. I'm hoping to get the car back from the shop on Friday, so I can install the WI kit over the weekend before I have to leave Monday on business.

As of right now, that's pretty much all I plan to do.....Well, at least until I blow up the 7-bolt. Anything more and I'm looking at big bucks to try and get the thing to stick to the ground.

I've had the 150psi coolingmist for about a year now. Good choice, what size nozzle did you go with..

Apparently there are only 3 options, so I picked the one that was good for 230 - 350WHP. I emailed the guy and asked a couple questions and he said that nozzle that will be shipped would be 6 gallons/hour.

It looks like it will be about 380cc/min, which is about 18% of the fuel delivered at 80% IDC. Most of what I have read says you should be flowing between 15 and 20% of your fuel delivery. so, it sounds like the nozzle is going to be about the right size.

Are you running water, or a mix? I'm not sure if I want to run smurf piss because of people having problems with clogged filters. I was thinking about mixing some Heet with distilled water and running that.

Also, do you have your pump in the trunk and are you using the stock washer bottle? The guy at cooling mist said that the pump has to be below the level of the tank, but I'm not sure if I'll be able to get the pump low enough unless I buy a tank. I see that others have mounted the pump on the other side of the tank (closest to the back seat) and it looks like it might be slightly lower than the tank. What did you do?

I stopped in and checked everything out since my mechanic has the tranny out. Not that I'm an expert or anything, but it looked fine. I didn't see anything obvious that could have caused a problem. I did find a small hot spot on the pressure plate, but Sean told me that unless you can see a high spot using a straight edge, it's nothing to worry about.

I went ahead and ordered the full C1 disk and had it overnighted, so it should be here tomorrow. My mechanic told me he probably won't be able to get everything back together until Monday, since the dealership is screwing him around on getting the bracket for the transmission (the one where the bolt was stripped). I wanted it back this weekend so I could install the Meth injection, but I guess I'll have to wait until I get back from Indiana.

Here is a picture of the hot spot on the PP, if anyone is interested. Sorry for the shitty picture, but I only had my camera phone.

http://img260.imageshack.us/img260/6223/0530071256th6.jpg

Here are some more pictures for anyone that is bored. :)


http://img164.imageshack.us/img164/4210/0530071256cdn5.jpg


http://img164.imageshack.us/img164/2856/0530071258bc9.jpg


http://img164.imageshack.us/img164/3857/0530071258bir0.jpg


http://img164.imageshack.us/img164/7476/0530071258cyj0.jpg

Apparently there are only 3 options, so I picked the one that was good for 230 - 350WHP. I emailed the guy and asked a couple questions and he said that nozzle that will be shipped would be 6 gallons/hour.

It looks like it will be about 380cc/min, which is about 18% of the fuel delivered at 80% IDC. Most of what I have read says you should be flowing between 15 and 20% of your fuel delivery. so, it sounds like the nozzle is going to be about the right size.

Are you running water, or a mix? I'm not sure if I want to run smurf piss because of people having problems with clogged filters. I was thinking about mixing some Heet with distilled water and running that.

Also, do you have your pump in the trunk and are you using the stock washer bottle? The guy at cooling mist said that the pump has to be below the level of the tank, but I'm not sure if I'll be able to get the pump low enough unless I buy a tank. I see that others have mounted the pump on the other side of the tank (closest to the back seat) and it looks like it might be slightly lower than the tank. What did you do?

Ooh, look I just quoted myself. :uhoh:

Scottsee, where are you......... :)

I'm running an M7 (600cc) nozzle and I think it's to small. it controls very well under 22psi on my evo316g, past that it's just to small with a meth/h20 mix.

I run -20deg windshield fluid because it's cheap, like $1.50 or something like that a gallon. I've never had a problem with my inline filter it's still clean. I've run 100% distilled water with every mix of meth/h20 upto 75% meth. And as you'll find out there is a sweet spot for your car. Mine does well on 75%meth & 25% h20. I did the math last year and I think it was 33% meth/perto ratio at 90%IDC on my 550cc's. If I ever get my car back together I plan on trying M10 100% meth, race gas and maybe a 100 direct shot.

I mounted my 1gallon tank on the back of the rear driver side seat with the 150psi shurflow pump t-clamped to the side of the bracket that spare tire mounts to.. If you haven't already I would suggest an inline ignition fuse, LED tank float level, and LED for a nozzle activation light. well worth the extra $35 or so. And just for a heads up the best spot I've found for the LED's are on your A-pillar gage cluster so you never have to take your eyes off the road..

That clutch looks good. I'm shopping for one right now and probably just get the act2600. The stocker is finally slipping in 3rd after 3 years of abuse.. It's going to be twords the end of June before I get it though. I couldn't resist the temptations of a pollished JMfab sheetmetal intake manifold with nitrous bungs last week..

P.S.
Did you happen to look at the digital progressive controlers they have? Things are sick, computer progamable with 10 diffrent flow maps by varrying the voltage output to the pump.. Last time I talked to David he was also telling me about a new Wideband controller they were working on that was expected to be out at the end of May..

I'm running an M7 (600cc) nozzle and I think it's to small. it controls very well under 22psi on my evo316g, past that it's just to small with a meth/h20 mix.


I might have to look into a bigger nozzle. Do you know what your peak airflow is during a run?


I run -20deg windshield fluid because it's cheap, like $1.50 or something like that a gallon. I've never had a problem with my inline filter it's still clean. I've run 100% distilled water with every mix of meth/h20 upto 75% meth. And as you'll find out there is a sweet spot for your car. Mine does well on 75%meth & 25% h20. I did the math last year and I think it was 33% meth/perto ratio at 90%IDC on my 550cc's. If I ever get my car back together I plan on trying M10 100% meth, race gas and maybe a 100 direct shot.


I decided to get some distilled water, picked up a gallon of Heet and figured I would start with a 50%/50% mix. Only because I saw on the pump I got from cooling mist that you weren't supposed to run anything more than 50% MeOH.


I mounted my 1gallon tank on the back of the rear driver side seat with the 150psi shurflow pump t-clamped to the side of the bracket that spare tire mounts to..


That's where I mounted my pump and I decided to tap the stock bottle only because it already has a light. I drained it so I could clean it out and made sure the sensor worked before I put everything back together.


If you haven't already I would suggest an inline ignition fuse, LED tank float level, and LED for a nozzle activation light. well worth the extra $35 or so. And just for a heads up the best spot I've found for the LED's are on your A-pillar gage cluster so you never have to take your eyes off the road..


I put the LED in the gauge cluster and have that wired to a clogged nozzle detector, just because I wanted some extra protection in case something goes wrong.


That clutch looks good. I'm shopping for one right now and probably just get the act2600. The stocker is finally slipping in 3rd after 3 years of abuse.. It's going to be twords the end of June before I get it though. I couldn't resist the temptations of a pollished JMfab sheetmetal intake manifold with nitrous bungs last week..


Yep, the clutch is in and everything works great now. There is a little chatter, but it's definately workable. I think as it breaks in and I learn how to drive it, everything should be fine.

Ummmm.....Nitrous. :naughty: That should be fun. You'll have to let me know what kind of gains you get with that.


P.S.
Did you happen to look at the digital progressive controlers they have? Things are sick, computer progamable with 10 diffrent flow maps by varrying the voltage output to the pump.. Last time I talked to David he was also telling me about a new Wideband controller they were working on that was expected to be out at the end of May..

I did, but after spending about $3k so far this Spring on the Spyder, I didn't want to piss the wife off anymore than I already had. :lol:

I got everything installed and wired up on Sunday and the damn thing doesn't work. I took a compressor, set it to 15psi and couldn't get the damn pump to kick on. I'll have to call them today and see what's going on, so I didn't even get a chance to play with it. :disappoin

I might have to look into a bigger nozzle. Do you know what your peak airflow is during a run?

I was seeing 35lb/min airflow at 22psi before my clutch started slipping. Now I'm only boosting 8psi untill I get things fixed.

I decided to get some distilled water, picked up a gallon of Heet and figured I would start with a 50%/50% mix. Only because I saw on the pump I got from cooling mist that you weren't supposed to run anything more than 50% MeOH.

I never payed any attention to that stuff. I've never heard of a pump failer becasuse of meth. If one ever does, they're only $60-$90.

that's where I mounted my pump and I decided to tap the stock bottle only because it already has a light. I drained it so I could clean it out and made sure the sensor worked before I put everything back together.

As long as the tank is above the pump you're golden. The pump needs a gravity feed to work properlly. The tanks are only $35 with mounting hardware.

I got everything installed and wired up on Sunday and the damn thing doesn't work. I took a compressor, set it to 15psi and couldn't get the damn pump to kick on. I'll have to call them today and see what's going on, so I didn't even get a chance to play with it.

When I installed my injection system my pump leaked from the switch ontop of my pump. I sent it back, David sent me another one. I put the brass fittings in the pump and the plastic thread cracked. I called him again and he sent me a new pump with the quick release fittings pre-installed. Then my boost switch went out, so I feel ya :)

I had trouble getting the pump to switch on too. have you hooked the ignition power dirrectly to a batery to see if it switches on? And, I'll let you know how the No2 works out..

I was seeing 35lb/min airflow at 22psi before my clutch started slipping. Now I'm only boosting 8psi untill I get things fixed.


Based on that, I think I'll be needing an bigger nozzle also. Before the exhaust, I was right around 32lbs/min, but I haven't gotten a chance to log because of the clutch installation. Hopefully when I get back from Chicago this weekend.


I never payed any attention to that stuff. I've never heard of a pump failer becasuse of meth. If one ever does, they're only $60-$90.


I thought it was weird because it's basically plastered all over the CoolingMist website that everything is 100% MeOH compatible. Then I get the pump and read the 50/50 max and I wondered what was going on. I think I'll start with 50/50 and go from there.


As long as the tank is above the pump you're golden. The pump needs a gravity feed to work properlly. The tanks are only $35 with mounting hardware.


My pump is barely below where I tapped the tank. The line from the tank to the pump is only about 8" and there might be about 1" of fall from the spot I tapped to the inlet on the pump. Hopefully it isn't a problem. :)


When I installed my injection system my pump leaked from the switch ontop of my pump. I sent it back, David sent me another one. I put the brass fittings in the pump and the plastic thread cracked. I called him again and he sent me a new pump with the quick release fittings pre-installed. Then my boost switch went out, so I feel ya :)


Well, at least I know that service after the sale is solid. :icon16:


I had trouble getting the pump to switch on too. have you hooked the ignition power dirrectly to a batery to see if it switches on? And, I'll let you know how the No2 works out..

Not yet, I sent him an email today and he told me that if I turn the ignition on and swap the middle wire on the boost switch to the bottom prong, the pump should kick on. I'll try that when I get home from this damn business trip and see what happens.

I figured out the problem, apparently the boost sensor wasn't set at 10psi like the instructions said that it was. I adjusted the screw and have it coming on at about 6psi. I think I need to turn it up a little bit, but I'll see how the logs look.

I have the LED that tells me when the pump comes on and if the nozzle is clogged, but I'm not liking the fact that I can't actually see that it is working. I'll update everyone once I get the tune worked out.

Well, I got everything installed and I'm not quite sure of what to think. The exhaust sounds pretty good (Greddy EVO 2), but the tip is freakin' huge. I could definately shoot a grapefruit out of that thing. It fits pretty good, but the hanger at the can keeps smacking into the stock hanger bracket. Every time I hit a bump it rattles around. I'm going to try and get some rubber and wrap around the hanger so when it hits it doesn't sound like the car is going to fall apart. :)


The full disk clutch is much easier to drive, but it's still a little "grabbier" than the stock clutch. I'm getting used to it and it seems to be getting better the more miles I rack up.

The MeOH injection is pretty cool, but the car smokes when it kicks on. I'm guessing it's because the internals are getting a good steam cleaning. I'll keep an eye on it and see what happens. Anyone else notice this after installation? I'm a little concerned that the nozzle is too close to the BOV. I'm hoping that the mixture doesn't get dumped when the BOV opens and get sucked through the turbo. I know that sustained injection pre-turbo can damage the blades and that MeOH could potentially flash at the temperatures our turbos run. I can definately feel a difference when it kicks on. It seems to have compeletely eliminated any heat soak associated with the SMIC, so I'm not seeing any of the normal dips when I make back to back pulls.

As for performance gains, there really aren't any. :( I have no clue what's going on, but I may have just disproved the theory that the stock cat back is restrictive. I was pushing about 33lbs/min on the stock cat back and I'm pushing the same on the Greddy.

I don't have any boost leaks and can't think of any reason why my airflow is so low. I always assumed it was from the stock catback, but I'm starting to think otherwise. Anyone have any ideas?

Have your car E-checked then take off your exhaust, after all, you don't need it :grinyes: