grand voyager stalling

My daughter just accuired a 92' Grand Voyager with a 3.3 V6. It runs and starts fine but after about 10 minutes of driving it sometimes stalls and can't be restarted for a few minutes. It will then run fine for 10-15 minutes and repeat the stalling again. The error code seems to be a 12 meaning "battery or computer recently dissconnected" but neither has been touched. Any ideas would be a great help. Thanks in advance!

Update:

OK, I drove it until it stalled (at a stop, at idle). It restarted immediately but then stalled again 10 seconds later. It would not restart this time but after 3-4 tries off it went. I checked the error codes again and I get what seems to be a 1211, a 122 or a more likely 14. (it has a analog dash so the codes are flashed by the "check engine light) If I'm not mistaken, the 92' models use a 2 digit code so I'm leaning towards the 14 code.

Anyhoo, the 14 code from what I understand is "MAP sensor voltage below .16V or over 4.96V". Would this cause stalling and if so, how do I repair it?

My daughter just accuired a 92' Grand Voyager with a 3.3 V6. It runs and starts fine but after about 10 minutes of driving it sometimes stalls and can't be restarted for a few minutes. It will then run fine for 10-15 minutes and repeat the stalling again. The error code seems to be a 12 meaning "battery or computer recently dissconnected" but neither has been touched. Any ideas would be a great help. Thanks in advance!

Update:

OK, I drove it until it stalled (at a stop, at idle). It restarted immediately but then stalled again 10 seconds later. It would not restart this time but after 3-4 tries off it went. I checked the error codes again and I get what seems to be a 1211, a 122 or a more likely 14. (it has a analog dash so the codes are flashed by the "check engine light) If I'm not mistaken, the 92' models use a 2 digit code so I'm leaning towards the 14 code.

Anyhoo, the 14 code from what I understand is "MAP sensor voltage below .16V or over 4.96V". Would this cause stalling and if so, how do I repair it?
Replace MAP sensor.

One way to test if it's the MAP sensor is with the ignition off unplug the MAP when it stalls. This forces the computer to substitiute a vaule for the MAP.

If it's better, replace it. But that code sounds like it's dead anyhow.

Get this, I went to a local auto parts store to buy a MAP sensor and I was talking to the gentleman (a retired mechanic) and he told me the symptoms didn't sound like it was the MAP sensor. He said to remove and clean the Idle Air control valve. I did this (it was fouled with carbon deposits (?)) and presto! No more stalling! 2 days of driving and not a hiccup! Thank you bernard and rawtorgue for your suggestions, it led me down the right road to fixing the problem and I saved some money as well!

Thanks for posting a fix. It's a rare event on most forums.

Thanks for posting a fix. It's a rare event on most forums.

lol RIP, not a problem. I was just so damned happy I didn't have to replace a whole bunch of expensive parts that didn't need replacing! Thanks again!

I'm a little late to the thread, but your symptoms do sound like a classic case of a plugged up idle air control valve. No, not a case of hindsight being 20/20, that's what I would have checked as well, given your symptoms.

Glad you got the problem fixed.

Well, I guess I spoke too soon. The problem is back after 4 days. Now I'm getting a "19" code which dosen't make sence becuse from what I can find, there is no such code. It flashes: 1, long pause, 2, long pause, 2, long pause, 1, long pause, 4 then 55 "end of codes".

I swapped out the MAP sensor for one that I know works but no go. Any ideas where to go next? Also, where is the fuel filter located?

Your flash codes are still a little confusing. The first "1-2" is normal and doesn't mean anything. The "5-5" code means "end of codes", so it is also meaningless. The "2-1" code seems to indicate oxygen sensor failure. The lone "4" code doesn't seem right somehow. You should be able to determine double digit codes. There should be a definite EXTRA long period between the double digit codes. For example the first one is 12, the second is 21, etc. (they go in order.) So the lone "4" code should be followed by another number. Maybe it should be a "4-2" code, which would indicate a problem with the auto shutoff relay, or a "4-3" code which would indicate a problem with the ignition circuit?

Your flash codes are still a little confusing. The first "1-2" is normal and doesn't mean anything. The "5-5" code means "end of codes", so it is also meaningless. The "2-1" code seems to indicate oxygen sensor failure. The lone "4" code doesn't seem right somehow. You should be able to determine double digit codes. There should be a definite EXTRA long period between the double digit codes. For example the first one is 12, the second is 21, etc. (they go in order.) So the lone "4" code should be followed by another number. Maybe it should be a "4-2" code, which would indicate a problem with the auto shutoff relay, or a "4-3" code which would indicate a problem with the ignition circuit?
Yeah I'm confused as well lol! I may have miscounted the flashes last time. I was a bit confused as to exactly how they work. I disconected the battery for a minute to clear the codes, drove it until it died (several times) again then checked for codes and all I get now is 1-2. (battery or computer disconnected recently?)

Would a bad O2 sensor cause this stalling condition?

Yeah I'm confused as well lol! I may have miscounted the flashes last time. I was a bit confused as to exactly how they work. I disconected the battery for a minute to clear the codes, drove it until it died (several times) again then checked for codes and all I get now is 1-2. (battery or computer disconnected recently?)

Would a bad O2 sensor cause this stalling condition?

Probably not. It would make it run too rich.

I would say you might have the "clogged screen on the fuel pump" problem. Does it stall like the switch got turned off, or does it "put-put-put" when it dies?

Probably not. It would make it run too rich.

I would say you might have the "clogged screen on the fuel pump" problem. Does it stall like the switch got turned off, or does it "put-put-put" when it dies?

It kind of does both. Sometimes it just shuts off but most times it does sputter a bit before stalling. I am leaning towards the fuel system as well. I guess this weekends job is a fuel tank removal!

Let us know how you make out.

Well, the fuel pump and pickup seem to be fine. A friend did a series of diagnostic tests using a tester (don't ask me what type!) and all of the engine controls checked out fine. We checked all the solenoids, connections etc and still nothing. The problem seems to be heat related because once the engine hits around 200f it starts to act up and stall. When we let it cool to around 170 it would run fine for 5-10 minutes until it got to 200.

It was suggested that maybe the coil pack (ignition module?) was reacting to the heat so I changed it out with a known good, used one with no change. I'm really stumped on this one now! Any more ideas would be GREATLY appreciated!

Anyone??

Two things. Have you rechecked the IAC? Have you checked for spark and fuel when it stalls?

I will throw my 2 cents in on this one, as I had a 92 that did the same thing, and it turned out to be the ignition switch.

Question for you, when you are driving and it dies, does the speedometer and all the gauges drop? Or have you seen them fluctuate while driving?

It has fuel pressure in the fuel rail and spark when it stalls. Gauges are fine. How do I check the ignition switch?

I have not rechecked the IAC but I will tomorrow. Anything i need to look for other than fouling?

Try the trouble codes again. What it the read out? You were getting codes before, but never articulated them clearly.

Try the trouble codes again. What it the read out? You were getting codes before, but never articulated them clearly.

No codes at all now.

Suggest you take it to a mechanic who really knows what they are doing and put it on an engine scope. Your problem is intermittent, and so many components might cause it. Any advice you might get would just be shooting in the dark.

My 97 Voyager does the same thing, but only in the Spring and Summer when it is hot. It never stalled this winter. You won't know it has stalled untill you push the gas pedal and nothing happens. My shop can't figure it out, and they said the code it gave doesn't make sense. Please let us know how you fix the problem.

My 97 Voyager does the same thing, but only in the Spring and Summer when it is hot. It never stalled this winter. You won't know it has stalled untill you push the gas pedal and nothing happens. My shop can't figure it out, and they said the code it gave doesn't make sense. Please let us know how you fix the problem.

That is almost exactly what it is doing! It seems fine in cold weather but now that it's warm all bets are off! lol This thing has pissed me off so it's on the back burner for now. I'll for sure keep you posted.

Problem solved! I was in a NAPA parts store the other day and I was talking to the guy behind the counter about it. He suggested checking the crank position sensor. I swapped it out and viola, no more stalling! Seems to me that this was suggested by a friend soon after the problem arose but for some reason it slipped my mind. Figures, the one thing I don't try for 2 months turns out to be the problem! Thanks NAPA guy and all of you that made suggestions!