Front end clunk

Got around to looking for the clunk and squeak in the front end when the brakes are applyed and released. Checked caliper mounts, all bushings and found nothing. I cannot get it to make the noise without driving it, I tryed locking the brakes with a rod between the pedal and the seat and rocking the van back and forth, still no noise. I put another car on the back bumper and pushed on the van then let it release (brakes still locked with the rod) and it made the noise. Got someone to rock it for me and went under to look for the noise. I found the right front strut bushing had broken loose from the crossmember.

Removed the nut and pulled the washer and bushing, yep the steel part of the frame that the bushing crushed against was loose in the crossmember.

Luckly I was in our shop at work and we have a real nice wire feed welder, While I am not the greatest welder I said why not. I practiced on a few scraps of metal and under I went. I first tacked it in 4 places, cooled it off with water (did not want to burn the bushing on the other side) and repeated the tacking and cooling 6 more times. By the time I was done I had a bead of weld all the way around the loose part.

Put the front bushing/washer and nut back on and took a test ride, no more noise.

I was lucky that I was in the shop and had a Pit to work in and a welder otherwise I would have had to put it back together for another day. Guess I should do the other side before it breaks loose also. It looks like it's only crimped or crushed from the factory, I wonder if the oil soaking it gets every time I change the oil filter helped it work loose?

It was a tough one to find as it only made noise when the full weight of the van (or my push car) was pushing on it.

Great Kevin. I have yet to weld mine, but would like to - I have access to a wire fed welder. Interestingly, Moog now sells kits to fix this problem - actually to replace corroded or damaged strut mount bushings. Clearly your fix is easier and cheaper if able. Rockauto showed $69 for the Moog kit (cross member repair kit), which may only be for one side.

http://www.moogproblemsolver.com/downloads/PSL200411CorrodedStrutMounts(EngSpn).pdf

I never thought to look for a kit, rock auto is my favorite place to buy online parts. Looks to me like you would have to drop the lower arm to remove the strut, way more work than I had to do to weld it up. The bushing was not badly rusted, just loose where it was crimped to the crossmember.

If you have a wire feed welder just go for it, just clean it up good first to get any oil from the filter changes off it if it's the right side. Keep it cool between tacks and all will be good.

I just came back from another ride and the van feels much tighter and no more noise!!!

Thanks, I'll give it a whirl. Do you do all the welding from the "back" side? i.e. the engine side?

No I welded the front side, to do it from the enging side would require removal of the rod. It looks like it was crimped into the crossmember at the front so it should be fine.

Thanks, I'll give it a whirl. Do you do all the welding from the "back" side? i.e. the engine side?thanks from me busboy,i bought the repair kit from moog,had to get a loaner tool from advance to put it in--a spanner socket(2 3/8"),feels alot more solid.also,first time i've used rock auto,very easy and quick.thanks again

thanks from me busboy,i bought the repair kit from moog,had to get a loaner tool from advance to put it in--a spanner socket(2 3/8"),feels alot more solid.also,first time i've used rock auto,very easy and quick.thanks again

Hey glad it worked. Just so I know, was the Moog kit for both sides, or is it one kit per side?
And, how did it go removing the original "sleeve" in the frame?

Thanks

Hey glad it worked. Just so I know, was the Moog kit for both sides, or is it one kit per side?
And, how did it go removing the original "sleeve" in the frame?

Thanksthe kit could be used on either side,and the sleeve came out fairly quick.i just used my $15 grinder from our local trader horn store from the front and popped it out through the back.i checked the other side but it is still tight.thanks again--did not even know there was a kit,until you mentioned it.

Again thanks Busboy for your comments, just wondering if this problem is exclusive to 95-98 windstar or does it include 99 and up. The reason I ask is because the MOOG part is designed for 95-98. Thanks

Again thanks Busboy for your comments, just wondering if this problem is exclusive to 95-98 windstar or does it include 99 and up. The reason I ask is because the MOOG part is designed for 95-98. Thanksi don't know--i am just glad i replaced the sleeve since i have been dealing with the clunking for couple years.i replaced ball joints,tie rods struts,strut bearings trying to find it.now that this problem is solved,i'm trying to track down an occasional rough idle--maybe after '98 they improved,i hope for you marzbx.

Again thanks Busboy for your comments, just wondering if this problem is exclusive to 95-98 windstar or does it include 99 and up. The reason I ask is because the MOOG part is designed for 95-98. Thanks

Hi
I think you will find that the '99's and up went with more of a "wishbone" style setup, eliminating the need for a strut rod. Only working from a hunch, and a glance at a '99 and a '00.

Hello

Just to add a bit to this thread. Wiswind has a collection of pics which includes this bushing fix. There is a link to his pics in my siganture.

Regards

Dan

Hi,
I also have this problem, kept thinking after I changed the bushings that I didn't have it tight enough because the clunk was still there. I tried to weld them yesterday but they are not tight against the frame when I jack it up so I couldn't get it to stick. I don't have a pit. Should I try it on ramps? I would hate to have to take it all apart again just to get the sleeve tight on the frame. I know some people on this forum in similar threads said to leave it and put up with the clunk but there is no way I could do that! Besides wouldn't that eat up your tires? The Carquest problem solver bulletin says when they are loose it affects your alignment.

Just in case someone wants to go the other route here is the link to Carquest's bulletin. http://www.carquestchassis.com/downloads/PSL200411CorrodedStrutMounts(EngSpn).pdf
I have yet to call my local Carquest to see if they still carry these kits and get a price...but am I the only one who thinks $70 is a little high for something similar to a piece of plumbing pipe with threads?? My husband suggested getting some small exhaust pipe, flare one end and cut lines in the other (so you can bend it once its in) and pop it in there! I guess innovative ideas really are valuable, nobody at Moog is starving!
Regardless I will try the welding again first. Doesn't get easier than that if I can get it to work...on the labor and the wallet!

I took the van to a mufller shop and had them do the spot weld. It cost me $40.00 to do both side. It took them less than 30 min to do the work.