Clearing up oxidized headlights

Hey everyone.

I was bored and decided this weekend to concentrate on detailing my 99 Sonoma. I noticed that the headlights were pretty cloudy and decided to make a how to on how to clear up those oxidized headlights.

http://www.nixonservers.com/brett/project/before.JPG
This light has been worked on before, I just never finished it. It was 5 times worse.

Materials Needed -
800 Grit Wet Sandpaper Cost 3.50
1000 or 1200 Grit Wet Sandpaper Cost 3.50
2000 Grit Wet Sandpaper Cost 3.50
Water Cost Unknown
Meguiar's PlastX Cost 3.96

http://www.nixonservers.com/brett/project/mats.JPG
http://www.nixonservers.com/brett/project/mats2.JPG

Total 14.46 (Estimate) Prices may vary.
Time = 10 to 25 minutes per light. Depending on level of oxidation and how well you want to lights to look.

First its better if you remove the light assembly from your car. That way you don't have to worry about overshooting and scratching your paint. :nono:

Step One - The key for this to work right is to keep the surface wet, so you want to have running water on the light at all times. I found out if I put it in the sink and get the light wet and turn it on low so a small stream is hitting it you get faster results.

*IMPORTANT* DO NOT USE A BELT SANDER / ELECTRIC SANDER. It will cause little circles etched in the light and you will have a bad day.

Step Two - With the water still on the light take your 800 grit sand paper and with an identical continuous motion (preferably the length of the light). You will notice a bad smell and white residue come from the light. Thats just the oxidized plastic. You want to do this for a awhile till the light looks pretty clear and its smooth.

Figure 1. http://www.nixonservers.com/brett/project/proc.JPG

Step Three - Now you want to do the same thing in step to with the 1000 or 1200 grit sandpaper. This will start to smooth out the scratches that were implemented with using the rough grit paper. After done for awhile you want to dry off the light and see how clear it looks. The clearer the better, its ok if it still looks cloudy.

Step Four - Now you want to take the 2000 grit and do the same as step two and three. This will smooth out the light. Dry and check your progress to get the best results.

Step Five - The light still wont look perfectly clear but will be pretty clear. Now you want to apply a generous amount of the PlastX onto the light in a swirling motion. Let it sit for about a minute and remove the residue. Repeat 2 to 3 times for best results. Now your light should look pretty darn close to new.

http://www.nixonservers.com/brett/project/finished.JPG One coat applied.

Now this light will stay pretty clear but it if starts clouding up, go ahead and apply a coat of PlastX.

Hope this helps you guys out

nice how-to. moving to FAQ section.

WOW, What a big difference...
Nice How too job with your pic's....

what about the 2000grit paper? use it after the 1000grit?

Yea, it will smooth everything out.

I've also had moderate success with a lambs-wool pad on the buffer and a low-abrasive polishing compound, followed by a non-abrasive high silicone compound on the foam pad. What works very well for a final polish (and if you don't mind a strange or minty odor on your buffer pad) is toothpaste. It has a very fine and soft abrasive which will clean and polish plastic very well.

The protective coating afterward is a good step, but it will likely require reapplication after time.

Rubbing Compound. $2.49 Works miracles on oxidized headlights.. You may need 2 applications on severe oxidation... Fast,easy,cheap...