87 caprice hesitates when cruising And A Few Questions

It's a 1987 305 5.0L

if you've read any of my other post, i've got most of the stuff fixed but when i'm cruising at around 40 mph, the car hesitates(dont know if that's the rite word it kinda like jumps). but when i give it some gas it boggs down then speeds up, but when i cruise at higher speeds around 65 i dont fell it happening

But this is what i have done
- New Carb
- Tuned The Carb
- Replaced Spark Plug Wires and Plugs
- New Pcv Valve
- New Air Filter
- Oil Change

This is What is Still Wrong
- Car Hesitates
- A/C Blows Cold But When Given Gas Blows Warm
(someone said earlier this was a vaccum leak not sure how to check all the lines) And The Cold Air Can Be Felt Inside The Engine Bay


In A Different Post Someone Said Putting 87 Octance Is Better Then 93 Octance Is This True?

Also Is The Cats Removed A Bad Thing For The Car?

Thanks for any help

As far was the cat goes, I think it's fine... I did it to my car, and it did nothing but helped it.
87 Octane is better b/c it costs less, and doesn't reduce the amount of power or efficiency produced by then engine unless the engine was re-tuned specifically to run on higher octane. Higher octane is good when you have detonation/piston slap/pinging at proper ignition timing with 87 octane fuel (sometimes common in older engines). All higher octane does really is release its energy a little slower that lower octane, but they still both give the same amount of energy.
When giving the engine gas, it's RPM's increase including the RPM of the A/C compressor. If the freon coolant is a little bit low, the pressure will drop at higher compressor RPMs and trigger the low pressure shut off thus shutting off the compressor clutch. This could account for the warm air. Another possibility, and this is only something I've heard and have not confirmed it, is that at WOT the compressor will automatically shut off to give the engine as much power as possible.
The hesitation could possibly be caused by a faulty EGR valve, or EGR control unit.

Lower-octane gasoline is "more explosive" than higher-octane fuel is - it yields its power more readily. This is why high-octane fuel is used in high compression engines - the lower volatility of it helps reduce detonation - which is an explosion of the air/fuel mixture within the cylinder due to hot spots or high compression, or pre-ignition - which is a collision of flame fronts within the cylinder due to a hot spot igniting fuel just before the spark plug does. You want the fuel to have a rapid, clean burn that propagates evenly throughout the chamber, not an explosion. Higher octane is not as likely to detonate, because it takes more energy to ignite it!

Removing the cat from your car won't hinder performance, but it is federally illegal to remove it, and if the cat is performing as it should, there should be no noticable change in the cars power with or without it.

The vacuum issue you touched on is the reason why your A/C is behaving the way it does. Low engine vacuum is the largest culprit here - make sure that the engine is not misfiring on any cylinder and has the proper amount of static timing as detailed on the VECI label on the radiator fan shroud. Also, check all vacuum lines to make sure there are none that are cracked and there are no other vacuum leaks. Make sure the carb is bolted snugly to the intake, and that a new gasket was used.

How did you tune the carb? There are three things that you need to check - one is the air valve over the secondaries. If the spring tension on this is too light, opening the secondaries will cause the engine to crap out - fall out - bog down due to a lean condition (too much air too fast). The other two things you need to check are M/C solenoid duty cycle and the idle air bleed adjustment. These two adjustments are interdependant and require the use of an ignition dwell meter.

How did you tune the carb? There are three things that you need to check - one is the air valve over the secondaries. If the spring tension on this is too light, opening the secondaries will cause the engine to crap out - fall out - bog down due to a lean condition (too much air too fast). The other two things you need to check are M/C solenoid duty cycle and the idle air bleed adjustment. These two adjustments are interdependant and require the use of an ignition dwell meter.

i didn't tune the carb myself a shop did it for me, i'd like to replace every vaccum line on the motor is there a way i can order all of them?

So should i use 87 or 93 octane?

Use 87.

You can get the vacuum lines at Autozone.

thanks, and 1 more question i floored it today and the gas pedal got stuck down until i picked my foot off it and slammed it again then it popped up scared the S**t out of me, got any suggestions on that?