rebuild 350 project

ok guys
i have a very good 350 doner engine,and i want to rebuild it for my chevelle.
i love to drive the car so i need it to be bulletproff, but i love the old school sounds,and yes i like a little more hp then stock.but their seems to be so many combination that i getting confuse. has anybody rebuild a 350 and is happy with it and a build sheet with what they put in to it? cam, piston,crank.etc.

How much money are you willing to spend? There are many crate motors out there for less than 2 thousand.

A good ignition, fuel system, and exhaust need to be in place before you build. The combination of carb, intake and cam should be matched to these choices. Then you need to consider rear ratio and transmission.

Tell us what you have now in the car and what you are going to keep. How do you plan on using the car?

hi
well the plans are to a 2.5 inch exhaust,with y pipe and header,the fuel system will be a mechanical fuel pump. carb will be a 650 elbrock and a performer manifold with a hei ign. i realize that a crate are cheap and fast to get,but i want to do this one this way and then i know what in it. i heard of peopleording crate motors and then things go wrong and who do you turn to?you need to sent back and pay all that shipping.then do you really get what you paid for? maybe but this way i know what in it and i can say i did it myself.their is a 307 in the car now so everything is coming out except for brackets and such. i will spend about 1500 to 2000 i thinks when all said and done. this car will never see the strip i not into that,just street use only.trans will be kept it a powerglide.maybe later a 350 but for now i like the powerglide.the rear end will be a 10 bolts with a change of gears.

What year is the 350? A lot of the mid to late 70's are Ah, so,so to rebuild.

The best ignition, fuel system,exhaust,carb, intake or cam won't do you any good if the following are not up to snuff and wasted money for your engine.

What heads are on it? How much compression are you looking to push?
These are the questions you need to ask & answer first.

First thing you need to do is take a compression check and go from there. If low or inconsistent between cylinders are the pistons or rings shot? How much are you willing to sink into it if you need to spend all the cash in internals, bearings ,etc....?

Check out my signature link. I have many Chevy guys that are on top of there game. STRICTLY Chevy guys......

Good luck.

well i have two motors to choose from one is dated code 1968,and the other one is a 1974.i already tolk myself that i will go with new bearing and a steel crank,30 over and new piston and rods,also have a set of humpback heads that already need to been redone.i still have all the stock heads too.just in case they can't be work right.i would also replace the lifter and cam and rocker with something more solid.

sorry click more on once

Cool,
Just make sure you do a compression check. Cheap and easy to do. Very expensive if you don't have good or unballanced compression......

Good luck, Ain't it fun doing rebuilds ???:grinyes: :grinyes: :grinyes:

well it alittle too late for a compression check,but what i have measure i looking at good doner.the block will go to to machine shop soon,and be check for cracks and what not, then clean and bore .030 over with new crank bearing and cam bearing.and fitted with a steel crank and new piston and rings. but you have me thinking about compression and so i am looking into that,and what would be best for what i need.

I suggest going with this kit from Scoggins Dickey.
http://www.sdpc2000.com/

SD8060AG $880. Their part number for Vortec L31 heads and air gap manifold. This is a good street combination. Will breath well with a 650 and a mild performance street/strip cam shaft. When you buy pistons make sure they know you are using these heads. You need 9.5 to 10 to one compression.

These heads come with standard rocker arms. You need to keep you cam lift below 450. Which is more than enough for the goal you stated. Also they are cast iron which keeps cost low.

12556121 this is a GM short block. $1230. add kit $880. = $2110.

12486041 this is the block with heads and cam minus intake $2390.

PS on you rebuild steel crank is a waste of money stick with your stock crank. get a quote from the machine shop first. See if they will buy your old blocks and put your money towards the engine I suggested. Do they offer a 12,000 mile warranty?

thanks mdcamaro
i will follow your advice,i figure out that i want a 9:1 compression which should serve me good as far as durablity.one question on the crank? do you think i can keep the stock crank and still pull this hight compression and not worry?i think i will ask the shop that question about buying the two block and see what he say. as far as warranty good question??????? i will find out
thank

The stock crank is good to 7000 RPM. If they need to turn the crank over .30 is to much, then replace the crank. You want the block align bored and decked. This will square your block. The crank will be staight with the top of the block.