Problems with my 2001 Kia Sportage
sweetqtpie12
11-11-2006, 09:13 AM
We parked it on a Monday night and didnt drive it till Thursday. When we went to crank it it tried to turn over but wouldnt. We replaced the fuel pump and also the fuel filter. The pump acts like its not getting any electricity to it so we changed the main sensor and also the fuel sensor. Still will not crank but tries to. Any suggestions?
LMP
11-11-2006, 12:03 PM
I understank it CRANKS with the starter but it does not FIRE UP..right?...or is it ?
If it does not CRANK with the starter, check battery connections.
If it does not FIRE UP..then there are more options...more when you come back.
If it does not CRANK with the starter, check battery connections.
If it does not FIRE UP..then there are more options...more when you come back.
sweetqtpie12
11-11-2006, 02:00 PM
I understank it CRANKS with the starter but it does not FIRE UP..right?...or is it ?
If it does not CRANK with the starter, check battery connections.
If it does not FIRE UP..then there are more options...more when you come back.
Yes thats right it just wont fire up.
If it does not CRANK with the starter, check battery connections.
If it does not FIRE UP..then there are more options...more when you come back.
Yes thats right it just wont fire up.
sweetqtpie12
11-12-2006, 03:26 PM
Yes thats right it just wont fire up.
Fire up meaning run. It tries to crank but the engine will not turn over and run
Fire up meaning run. It tries to crank but the engine will not turn over and run
LMP
11-12-2006, 05:47 PM
Common issues are crank position sensor www.geocities.com/lmp4203/kiasport/cam_crank_sensors.jpg
and timing belt (see adjacent post) . The fact that it ran the last time until you turned the key to off and not the next time takes me on the electronic side. My other car just did the same last spring. BUt the fact "it tries to turn over " makes me think it has some spark....but that would have to be tested...a bit awkward with this engine setup ..reaching the spark plugs means removing the intake duct then the plastic cover under...annoying but not really a big job.
If you think it cranks faster than usual with the starter though, this would be a clue about the timing belt. As said in the adjacent post, past 70,000 miles, changing the belt is a must...proven time and time again.
However, this car model has an history of broken/corroded connectors (sensors and key engine control wiring) so you can check for moisture, may be if there was a lot of rain dry out all connectors with a hair dryer...including the coil pack area if you open this section....sometimes it takes just this to have it on the road again...at least temporarily because this would tell there is some work to do in those areas.
and timing belt (see adjacent post) . The fact that it ran the last time until you turned the key to off and not the next time takes me on the electronic side. My other car just did the same last spring. BUt the fact "it tries to turn over " makes me think it has some spark....but that would have to be tested...a bit awkward with this engine setup ..reaching the spark plugs means removing the intake duct then the plastic cover under...annoying but not really a big job.
If you think it cranks faster than usual with the starter though, this would be a clue about the timing belt. As said in the adjacent post, past 70,000 miles, changing the belt is a must...proven time and time again.
However, this car model has an history of broken/corroded connectors (sensors and key engine control wiring) so you can check for moisture, may be if there was a lot of rain dry out all connectors with a hair dryer...including the coil pack area if you open this section....sometimes it takes just this to have it on the road again...at least temporarily because this would tell there is some work to do in those areas.
sweetqtpie12
11-12-2006, 06:38 PM
Common issues are crank position sensor www.geocities.com/lmp4203/kiasport/cam_crank_sensors.jpg (http://www.geocities.com/lmp4203/kiasport/cam_crank_sensors.jpg)
and timing belt (see adjacent post) . The fact that it ran the last time until you turned the key to off and not the next time takes me on the electronic side. My other car just did the same last spring. BUt the fact "it tries to turn over " makes me think it has some spark....but that would have to be tested...a bit awkward with this engine setup ..reaching the spark plugs means removing the intake duct then the plastic cover under...annoying but not really a big job.
If you think it cranks faster than usual with the starter though, this would be a clue about the timing belt. As said in the adjacent post, past 70,000 miles, changing the belt is a must...proven time and time again.
However, this car model has an history of broken/corroded connectors (sensors and key engine control wiring) so you can check for moisture, may be if there was a lot of rain dry out all connectors with a hair dryer...including the coil pack area if you open this section....sometimes it takes just this to have it on the road again...at least temporarily because this would tell there is some work to do in those areas.
Thanks sooooo much for you advice and suggestions. We are off to try these now. Will let you know how it turns out. Again thanks sooo much.
and timing belt (see adjacent post) . The fact that it ran the last time until you turned the key to off and not the next time takes me on the electronic side. My other car just did the same last spring. BUt the fact "it tries to turn over " makes me think it has some spark....but that would have to be tested...a bit awkward with this engine setup ..reaching the spark plugs means removing the intake duct then the plastic cover under...annoying but not really a big job.
If you think it cranks faster than usual with the starter though, this would be a clue about the timing belt. As said in the adjacent post, past 70,000 miles, changing the belt is a must...proven time and time again.
However, this car model has an history of broken/corroded connectors (sensors and key engine control wiring) so you can check for moisture, may be if there was a lot of rain dry out all connectors with a hair dryer...including the coil pack area if you open this section....sometimes it takes just this to have it on the road again...at least temporarily because this would tell there is some work to do in those areas.
Thanks sooooo much for you advice and suggestions. We are off to try these now. Will let you know how it turns out. Again thanks sooo much.
LMP
11-13-2006, 07:21 AM
.mmm..another easy done check that is also part of normal maintenance is the Idle AIr Control valve, reported to stick and cause a lot of starting and idle problems. Just remove two screws and clean with gaz or carb cleaner.
www.geocities.com/lmp4203/kiasport/IAC.jpg
www.geocities.com/lmp4203/kiasport/IAC.jpg
sweetqtpie12
11-14-2006, 01:17 PM
.mmm..another easy done check that is also part of normal maintenance is the Idle AIr Control valve, reported to stick and cause a lot of starting and idle problems. Just remove two screws and clean with gaz or carb cleaner.
www.geocities.com/lmp4203/kiasport/IAC.jpg (http://www.geocities.com/lmp4203/kiasport/IAC.jpg)
We cleaned the idle valve and even replaced the battery because we were having to boost it off or let the battery charger set on it. We checked the battery cables and post and made sure all was really good and tight and clean. Still doenst crank though but still tries to. In an earlier post you suggested drying something with a hair dryer. Where is this located and also if the spark plugs need replacing could it they be causing it not to crank. Sorry to be so much trouble and we appreciate the advice greatly. We are trying to do everything possible before we have to have it towed to a dealership or mechanic.
www.geocities.com/lmp4203/kiasport/IAC.jpg (http://www.geocities.com/lmp4203/kiasport/IAC.jpg)
We cleaned the idle valve and even replaced the battery because we were having to boost it off or let the battery charger set on it. We checked the battery cables and post and made sure all was really good and tight and clean. Still doenst crank though but still tries to. In an earlier post you suggested drying something with a hair dryer. Where is this located and also if the spark plugs need replacing could it they be causing it not to crank. Sorry to be so much trouble and we appreciate the advice greatly. We are trying to do everything possible before we have to have it towed to a dealership or mechanic.
sweetqtpie12
11-24-2006, 10:25 PM
We tested the wire running to the fuel pump its not hot. The 10 amp fuse inside the car is not hot at all and so we are wondering if it could be the computer. Also the battery is drained everytime we try to do anything with it. Does this help tell what is wrong with it?
LMP
11-25-2006, 05:02 PM
WEll...beginning with normal 12V supply would be in the order of things....
charge the battery with a battery charger....disconnected from car...then install it with ground connected but use an ammeter to run the +12V to the car..with everything turned off: current should be near zero..maybe 20 milliamps to keep the computer memory alive. IF current is much larger, look for the cause: remove fuses one after the other until current falls to nil. If a severe drain continues, disconnect main wire (normally heavy gauge red) to alternator in case a diode is shot...
YOu did not mention the age of the battery: a 5-6 year old battery draining itself out is almost normal stuff....to check against that, have the battery charged disconnected from car, leave it alone for the night then connect it to try starting....it will speak for itself.
Computer failure is EXTREMELY rare..although several are changed then announced as "another" part that was failed too....most of the time they will not put back the old computer (functional) with a credit note after finding the real problem.
charge the battery with a battery charger....disconnected from car...then install it with ground connected but use an ammeter to run the +12V to the car..with everything turned off: current should be near zero..maybe 20 milliamps to keep the computer memory alive. IF current is much larger, look for the cause: remove fuses one after the other until current falls to nil. If a severe drain continues, disconnect main wire (normally heavy gauge red) to alternator in case a diode is shot...
YOu did not mention the age of the battery: a 5-6 year old battery draining itself out is almost normal stuff....to check against that, have the battery charged disconnected from car, leave it alone for the night then connect it to try starting....it will speak for itself.
Computer failure is EXTREMELY rare..although several are changed then announced as "another" part that was failed too....most of the time they will not put back the old computer (functional) with a credit note after finding the real problem.
hvac1000
11-25-2006, 05:03 PM
We tested the wire running to the fuel pump its not hot. The 10 amp fuse inside the car is not hot at all and so we are wondering if it could be the computer. Also the battery is drained everytime we try to do anything with it. Does this help tell what is wrong with it?
You have a short. Hook up a 12volt light between the positive cable and battery after you remve the battery wire. In other words put the lite in between the battery post and cable. Then pull fuses one by one till the lite goes out. That should tell you the circuit with the ground drawin curent.
You have a short. Hook up a 12volt light between the positive cable and battery after you remve the battery wire. In other words put the lite in between the battery post and cable. Then pull fuses one by one till the lite goes out. That should tell you the circuit with the ground drawin curent.
sweetqtpie12
11-26-2006, 10:59 AM
The battery that came in the car had an 05 sticker on it so we went on and purchased a new one and it has been drained too. Thanks for the suggestions as how to check the short. I will let you know the outcome.
Thanks again.
Thanks again.
sweetqtpie12
11-27-2006, 03:52 PM
We charged the battery back up for 24 hours then we did the 12v light test the fuse that made the light go out is a 30A grey fuse in the fuse box under the hood right behind the big black main relay fuse. Now... what does this mean?
hvac1000
11-27-2006, 05:36 PM
We charged the battery back up for 24 hours then we did the 12v light test the fuse that made the light go out is a 30A grey fuse in the fuse box under the hood right behind the big black main relay fuse. Now... what does this mean?
That means that the circuit that the fuse protects is having a problem. You will need to trouble shoot that circuit.
That means that the circuit that the fuse protects is having a problem. You will need to trouble shoot that circuit.
LMP
11-27-2006, 06:20 PM
Not sure exactly which 30A fuse ..there are a few
However, maybe this can help:
www.geocities.com/lmp4203/kiasport/FusesOUT.jpg
www.geocities.com/lmp4203/kiasport/PowerDist.jpg
I think the ADD fuse it the one you are talking about..in which case the problem is with the A/C section. I do not have the detail of that circuit..if it includes blower, rear defogger..?? anyway just remove the fuse and see what is inoperative....
However, maybe this can help:
www.geocities.com/lmp4203/kiasport/FusesOUT.jpg
www.geocities.com/lmp4203/kiasport/PowerDist.jpg
I think the ADD fuse it the one you are talking about..in which case the problem is with the A/C section. I do not have the detail of that circuit..if it includes blower, rear defogger..?? anyway just remove the fuse and see what is inoperative....
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