Location of Aveo Oil Drain Plug?
aveo2007
11-02-2006, 03:58 PM
I just purchased a 2007 Aveo5 hatchback and would like to do my own oil changes. I tried ordering the maintenance manual from Chevrolet but they told me it wouldn't be published for the 2007 model until sometime next year.
Can anyone tell me where the oil drain plug is on the Aveo? Please be as explicit as possible so that I don't confuse it with something else such as the transmission or coolant drain.
I assume it is on or near the oil pan on the bottom of the engine, any tips on identifying the drain plug and oil pan would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Steve
Can anyone tell me where the oil drain plug is on the Aveo? Please be as explicit as possible so that I don't confuse it with something else such as the transmission or coolant drain.
I assume it is on or near the oil pan on the bottom of the engine, any tips on identifying the drain plug and oil pan would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Steve
jerryp58
11-25-2006, 06:52 PM
Well, this will be my first post, but since I just changed the oil in my daughter's 2006 Aveo for the first time yesterday, maybe it's a good place to start.
I'd have to stick my head under there again to check for color, shape, etc. of the oil pan, but on my daughter's automatic LT, the oil pan is a finned aluminum piece pretty much in the center of the engine/trans assembly. It's towards the back of the pan and I didn't check the size, but I know I used a metric socket on it. The auto oil pan is pretty much in front of the driver, so if you see only two plugs down there, it's the one closer to the passenger side.
The shop did the first oil change (she just turned 6k on it) for free, but I figured I'd do this one for her. I had to tap on the wrench with a hammer since they had the plug so tight. It has a metal washer (copper or brass color) that, according to the owner's manual, can be used until the first 42k believe. Also, I could not get the filter off by hand (I hate when the shop tightens stuff down too much). Luckily, I was able to get a strap wrench on it and get it loose.
Finally, when I had the new filter and the plug in place, I filled it with just over three quarts of oil. I had primed the filter by putting a bit of oil in it first and letting it soak into the filter material before installing it. Anyway, I was surprised that it didn't take closer to 4 quarts (since it's supposed to take 3.96 qt with a filter change). So, I started it up, let it run for about 10 seconds, then checked it later. I added a little more than a half a quart (just under 4 qt all together) more to bring the oil back to MAX on the stick.
Sorry for the long first post. Good luck with the oil change. BTW, if you know the torque spec on the oil plug, I'd appreciate the info. The only thing I could find in the OM was the torque spec on the wheel lugs (which was good since I rotated the tires too).
I'd have to stick my head under there again to check for color, shape, etc. of the oil pan, but on my daughter's automatic LT, the oil pan is a finned aluminum piece pretty much in the center of the engine/trans assembly. It's towards the back of the pan and I didn't check the size, but I know I used a metric socket on it. The auto oil pan is pretty much in front of the driver, so if you see only two plugs down there, it's the one closer to the passenger side.
The shop did the first oil change (she just turned 6k on it) for free, but I figured I'd do this one for her. I had to tap on the wrench with a hammer since they had the plug so tight. It has a metal washer (copper or brass color) that, according to the owner's manual, can be used until the first 42k believe. Also, I could not get the filter off by hand (I hate when the shop tightens stuff down too much). Luckily, I was able to get a strap wrench on it and get it loose.
Finally, when I had the new filter and the plug in place, I filled it with just over three quarts of oil. I had primed the filter by putting a bit of oil in it first and letting it soak into the filter material before installing it. Anyway, I was surprised that it didn't take closer to 4 quarts (since it's supposed to take 3.96 qt with a filter change). So, I started it up, let it run for about 10 seconds, then checked it later. I added a little more than a half a quart (just under 4 qt all together) more to bring the oil back to MAX on the stick.
Sorry for the long first post. Good luck with the oil change. BTW, if you know the torque spec on the oil plug, I'd appreciate the info. The only thing I could find in the OM was the torque spec on the wheel lugs (which was good since I rotated the tires too).
napa1978
12-20-2006, 10:33 AM
DO NOT PUT "Just over 3 quarts of oil" in your Aveo! The aveo takes 3.93 quarts. Put in four. The residue on the walls of the oil containers will count for the missing 0.07 quart. FOUR quarts. Check your manual. It will confirm this.
Correct on the oil drain plug location. Your transmission is side mounted, so it is pretty much behind the driver's feet. Your drain plug is kind of angled on the pan so if you are not on your back under your car, you might not see it. The plug is on the oil drain pan, directly beneath the ENGINE. Makes sense.
I believe the head on the stock plug is a 17 mm. I swapped it out for a better plug at NAPA with a thicker gasket and a larger 19 mm head. The dealership over-torqued it so many times that my original was pretty much rounded off.
Correct on the oil drain plug location. Your transmission is side mounted, so it is pretty much behind the driver's feet. Your drain plug is kind of angled on the pan so if you are not on your back under your car, you might not see it. The plug is on the oil drain pan, directly beneath the ENGINE. Makes sense.
I believe the head on the stock plug is a 17 mm. I swapped it out for a better plug at NAPA with a thicker gasket and a larger 19 mm head. The dealership over-torqued it so many times that my original was pretty much rounded off.
jerryp58
12-20-2006, 09:10 PM
DO NOT PUT "Just over 3 quarts of oil" in your Aveo! The aveo takes 3.93 quarts. Put in four.
Hopefully, my original post...
"I filled it with just over three quarts of oil. I had primed the filter by putting a bit of oil in it first and letting it soak into the filter material before installing it. Anyway, I was surprised that it didn't take closer to 4 quarts (since it's supposed to take 3.96 qt with a filter change). So, I started it up, let it run for about 10 seconds, then checked it later. I added a little more than a half a quart (just under 4 qt all together) more to bring the oil back to MAX on the stick."
... wasn't misleading.
Hopefully, my original post...
"I filled it with just over three quarts of oil. I had primed the filter by putting a bit of oil in it first and letting it soak into the filter material before installing it. Anyway, I was surprised that it didn't take closer to 4 quarts (since it's supposed to take 3.96 qt with a filter change). So, I started it up, let it run for about 10 seconds, then checked it later. I added a little more than a half a quart (just under 4 qt all together) more to bring the oil back to MAX on the stick."
... wasn't misleading.
napa1978
12-21-2006, 10:32 AM
OOOPS. You're right.
Just kinda weird to prime an oil filter on an Aveo. I understand dry starts and all, but I have never primed an oil filter on anything less than a sport car. The oil doesn't ever completely drain out of such a small car... there is lubrication. And the filter design is self-priming (just turn the car on). Oil sticks to the metal. You would have to physically wipe down the bearings and all to make them dry. Then you would have a dry start.
Either technique works, of course. Priming the filter is just playing it a bit ultra-safe. You are typically pouring the oil in the TOP of the motor. It has to drain through everything to get to the pan!
Also... how did you manage to put oil in the filter and KEEP it from pouring OUT, as the filter goes on SIDEWAYS on this car? That would be a good trick.
Just kinda weird to prime an oil filter on an Aveo. I understand dry starts and all, but I have never primed an oil filter on anything less than a sport car. The oil doesn't ever completely drain out of such a small car... there is lubrication. And the filter design is self-priming (just turn the car on). Oil sticks to the metal. You would have to physically wipe down the bearings and all to make them dry. Then you would have a dry start.
Either technique works, of course. Priming the filter is just playing it a bit ultra-safe. You are typically pouring the oil in the TOP of the motor. It has to drain through everything to get to the pan!
Also... how did you manage to put oil in the filter and KEEP it from pouring OUT, as the filter goes on SIDEWAYS on this car? That would be a good trick.
jerryp58
12-21-2006, 08:34 PM
Priming the filter is just playing it a bit ultra-safe.
Ah, now you're being kind; as some would call it anal.
Also... how did you manage to put oil in the filter and KEEP it from pouring OUT, as the filter goes on SIDEWAYS on this car? That would be a good trick.
I put just enough oil in the filter so that as I start to rotate it from 90* (hole pointing up) down to 0* (hole on the horizontal) while slowly spinning it, there is only enough oil to soak into the element and not run out. It's not really that tricky to do (there's that anti-drainback valve/lip on the filter to help too). It just takes a few extra minutes, and as stated above, I typically play it on the safe side. I've done this on all of my vehicles for many years now.
Ah, now you're being kind; as some would call it anal.
Also... how did you manage to put oil in the filter and KEEP it from pouring OUT, as the filter goes on SIDEWAYS on this car? That would be a good trick.
I put just enough oil in the filter so that as I start to rotate it from 90* (hole pointing up) down to 0* (hole on the horizontal) while slowly spinning it, there is only enough oil to soak into the element and not run out. It's not really that tricky to do (there's that anti-drainback valve/lip on the filter to help too). It just takes a few extra minutes, and as stated above, I typically play it on the safe side. I've done this on all of my vehicles for many years now.
aveo2007
12-30-2006, 08:04 PM
Thanks for the added info guys. I'll be doing my first oil change on the Aveo in about three weeks. One last question: If I use wheel ramps on the front of the car only and leave the rear tires on the ground, so the car is on a slight uphill angle, will the vast majority of the oil still drain out of the engine?
jerryp58
12-30-2006, 11:13 PM
Thanks for the added info guys. I'll be doing my first oil change on the Aveo in about three weeks. One last question: If I use wheel ramps on the front of the car only and leave the rear tires on the ground, so the car is on a slight uphill angle, will the vast majority of the oil still drain out of the engine?
They must be low ramps if they'll only provide a "slight uphill angle"; all of the ramps I've used have been a good 8"-10". I like draining & filling the oil with the vehicle as level as possible because I worry about old oil getting stuck in passages somewhere. I guess I'm lucky my arms are long enough to reach the plug and there's plenty of room under there for the 3"-4" deep drain pan to fit without jacking it up.
They must be low ramps if they'll only provide a "slight uphill angle"; all of the ramps I've used have been a good 8"-10". I like draining & filling the oil with the vehicle as level as possible because I worry about old oil getting stuck in passages somewhere. I guess I'm lucky my arms are long enough to reach the plug and there's plenty of room under there for the 3"-4" deep drain pan to fit without jacking it up.
aveo2007
01-01-2007, 10:51 AM
They must be low ramps if they'll only provide a "slight uphill angle"; all of the ramps I've used have been a good 8"-10". I like draining & filling the oil with the vehicle as level as possible because I worry about old oil getting stuck in passages somewhere. I guess I'm lucky my arms are long enough to reach the plug and there's plenty of room under there for the 3"-4" deep drain pan to fit without jacking it up.
I'm using 11905 Rhino ramps - 12000 lb - and the height of the front tires off of the garage floor is 6 1/4 inches. I just ordered a Fumoto engine oil drain valve - http://www.fumotovalve.com/ - which I will install when I change the oil so future oil changes should be pretty easy and I may be able to get away with leaving the car on the garage floor. I was thinking about trying to build some low ramps out of wood for the back wheels.
I'm using 11905 Rhino ramps - 12000 lb - and the height of the front tires off of the garage floor is 6 1/4 inches. I just ordered a Fumoto engine oil drain valve - http://www.fumotovalve.com/ - which I will install when I change the oil so future oil changes should be pretty easy and I may be able to get away with leaving the car on the garage floor. I was thinking about trying to build some low ramps out of wood for the back wheels.
aveo2007
01-28-2007, 06:55 PM
I did my first oil change on my 2007 Aveo5 SVM this afternoon at 1,351 miles (3 months) and it went well. I let the oil drain for 45 minutes and then intstalled the Fumoto engine oil drain valve. After that I took out the old stock oil filter and put in a Purolator L10111 oil filter after putting just enough oil into it that the oil wouldn't spill out when the filter is horziontal after slowly rotating it to let the oil seep into the filter element. I put in 3 3/4 quarts of Castrol GTX SAE 5W30 dino oil and then warmed the car up and backed it off the Rhino ramps. After 5 minutes I checked the dipstick level and it was in the middle of the acceptable zone so I added the last 1/4 quart of oil and briefly warmed up the car again. Ten minutes later I checked the oil level and it was 1/8" below the max mark so all is well. Using the Rhino Ramps worked out well as the oil drain plug was at the rear bottom of the pan and all the oil drained out of the car since I was able to get four quarts back into the engine without hitting the max mark on the dipstick.
My plan is to keep using regular dino oil until around 5,500 to 6,000 miles and then put in a synthetic blend (Royal Purple) for one oil change and then go to Amsoil synthetic for the life of the car.
We went food shopping after the oil change and the engine ran a little quieter and smoother than before; probably due to higher quality oil than the factory used.
I love the car - it is fun to drive and I can use regular gasoline instead of the premium 93 octane that my old Saab Turbo demanded.
My plan is to keep using regular dino oil until around 5,500 to 6,000 miles and then put in a synthetic blend (Royal Purple) for one oil change and then go to Amsoil synthetic for the life of the car.
We went food shopping after the oil change and the engine ran a little quieter and smoother than before; probably due to higher quality oil than the factory used.
I love the car - it is fun to drive and I can use regular gasoline instead of the premium 93 octane that my old Saab Turbo demanded.
cwf111
08-28-2015, 03:23 PM
The Aveo Drain plug on my 2004 is on the passenger side, on the back side of the oil pan near the bottom. The oil pan is a long aluminum pan behind the catalytic converter. Do not confuse this with the plug for the transmission, which is on the driver side.
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