Starts but dies

Ok so I just got my car from the shop they put in a new lower intake mainfold. The car ran so good home. When to pull in my drive way and the car idle really hard (like it was out of gas) and died. went to start it back up it start but runs like crap and dies when it cuts off it makes this noise like when and bus or big truck stops its a pushhh sound. I called the shop back and they said its nothing they did the car ran fine on the test drive so i dont no what to do now


thanks for all the help ahead of time

Ok so I just got my car from the shop they put in a new lower intake mainfold. The car ran so good home. When to pull in my drive way and the car idle really hard (like it was out of gas) and died. went to start it back up it start but runs like crap and dies when it cuts off it makes this noise like when and bus or big truck stops its a pushhh sound. I called the shop back and they said its nothing they did the car ran fine on the test drive so i dont no what to do now


thanks for all the help ahead of time

Have it towed back to the shop and tell them to fix that crap man. Doesn't matter if it ran fine on the test drive or not, the fact that you could only get it home before it crapped out still leaves them responsible to fix it if you ask me. Sounds like a vaccum leak though.

p.s... please post threads like these that have to do with problems in the "problem diagnosis" subforum. Thx

I agree with blindxeyed. Hopefully they didnt mess up anything important.

I dont understand why i would run fine all the way home then crap out

If they messed it up, thats all you should have to understand if you payed sombody to fix it and they messed up somwhere along the assembly.


If they didnt put a seal in right or somthing and it took it that long to show its butt, or if it took the computer of the car a little while to realize somthing was wrong, could explain it.

prolly something fell off after you drove er home...i agree with both of em.. make those guys fix what they broke ;D

Update took the car back yesterday they are saying its the mass air flow sensor thats back and is going to cost about 140 bucks to replace or i can just unplug it for now and the car will run fine tell i can replace it. so two question would the sensor cause the car to act the way it did and two if i can unplug it and the car will run fine why do i need it


Thanks for eveyones help

Update took the car back yesterday they are saying its the mass air flow sensor thats back and is going to cost about 140 bucks to replace or i can just unplug it for now and the car will run fine tell i can replace it. so two question would the sensor cause the car to act the way it did and two if i can unplug it and the car will run fine why do i need it


Thanks for eveyones help

yes it can make them run stupid like that. If it worked okay before and never had the problem then they are still at fault IMO. You can get them way cheaper salvage (30 day gurantee), and they arent too big of deal to put in. For all i know they could have hooked the hoses up wrong, causing it to flash a code....

A MAF sensor can cause what you describe. If you unhook it and it starts and runs, check the wiring to the MAF for shorts and or breaks. If the wiring is good, the MAF needs to be replaced. It is not good to run it without a MAF because the ECM is running "dumb" and just using default fueling tables to allow you to "limp home". Extended running without a MAF isn't a good idea, especially if you still have your cat. converter. It can cause the cat to plug up since the car will be running rich. The default table runs on the rich side to ensure the engine is protected from detonation.

Update took the car back yesterday they are saying its the mass air flow sensor thats back and is going to cost about 140 bucks to replace or i can just unplug it for now and the car will run fine tell i can replace it. so two question would the sensor cause the car to act the way it did and two if i can unplug it and the car will run fine why do i need it


Thanks for eveyones help

Please tell me you have either a Formula or a T/A.. because the V6's from 1995 don't have MAF's.

Let's not forget, MAFs cannot help the PCM determine trim if there is a intake leak past it :thumbsup:

Thats exactly what i was thinking it was wrightz28. Although ive seen them freak out because hoses misrouted. On this one the cruise control hose was switched out for the washer fluid hose or somthing like that, towards the back of the intake manifold.

Please tell me you have either a Formula or a T/A.. because the V6's from 1995 don't have MAF's.


whats the sensor going into the side of the air intake thats what they are calling the mass air flow sensor

If it is a V8 as blindxeyed said ,the MAF could just be dirty from being taken off and exposed to a messy environment, such as being layed on the floor or somthing while it was up at the shop. I would remove the MAF and inspect/clean it first and see if that helps. Its easy to make one dirty, you dont even have to try.

You can be checking an air cleaner and one tiny fiber will fly down the hole and get on the MAF. This is no good. K&N air filters have an oil in them, and it gets on some MAFs and it will trip a car pretty much out. Being careless probably kills more MAF's that anything else.

Another thing, MAF are like a lightbulb in a way. Once they get old if they get shook around too much or bumped they can stop working pretty fast. Like instantly.

If you do remove it for inspection, you might as well pick up some type of electronic cleaner in a spray can to spray it off with. Make sure it says on the can you can use it on sensative electrical equipment, and that it leaves no residue. I use CRC but a lot different people make it.

EDIT: i was just thinking somthing as i was typing. On my 97' Crown Victoria, You can change out the MAF and air box with one out of a Mercury Marauder. When you do it adds HP with no other parts applied(supposedly). Might be somthing worth looking into.

question for owner. why was the lower intake replaced? problem or upgrade?

question for AF crowd: if its an upgrade could it be possible changing the lower intake could have somhow thrown off the MAF?

If it is a V8 as blindxeyed said ,the MAF could just be dirty from being taken off and exposed to a messy environment, such as being layed on the floor or somthing while it was up at the shop. I would remove the MAF and inspect/clean it first and see if that helps. Its easy to make one dirty, you dont even have to try.

You can be checking an air cleaner and one tiny fiber will fly down the hole and get on the MAF. This is no good. K&N air filters have an oil in them, and it gets on some MAFs and it will trip a car pretty much out. Being careless probably kills more MAF's that anything else.

Another thing, MAF are like a lightbulb in a way. Once they get old if they get shook around too much or bumped they can stop working pretty fast. Like instantly.

If you do remove it for inspection, you might as well pick up some type of electronic cleaner in a spray can to spray it off with. Make sure it says on the can you can use it on sensative electrical equipment, and that it leaves no residue. I use CRC but a lot different people make it.

EDIT: i was just thinking somthing as i was typing. On my 97' Crown Victoria, You can change out the MAF and air box with one out of a Mercury Marauder. When you do it adds HP with no other parts applied(supposedly). Might be somthing worth looking into.

question for owner. why was the lower intake replaced? problem or upgrade?

question for AF crowd: if its an upgrade could it be possible changing the lower intake could have somhow thrown off the MAF?


NO is a v6 but I have a sensor on the side of the Air Intake. I took the car in cuz it had an oil leak. They look at it and said it leaking from an o ring to the oil pump drive shaft. They said it was going to be 150. They started to take things apart and called me the next day and asked me if my lower intake manifold has ever been machined. I told them no not since I have had the car. well he said whom ever had the car did and did a bad job cuz they machined it was to much and there was a step from where it was supposed to line up with the valve covers and how they fixed that was silicone it which later made it start to leak oil. So I had to have a new intake manifold put in

NO is a v6 but I have a sensor on the side of the Air Intake.

That would be your IAT (Intake Air Temperature) sensor. It's used to calculate how much fuel to feed the cylinders. I don't see that causing a huge problem like the one you have, at most I would say it would cause your car to run rich or lean, and highly doubt it would cause your car to die and make a "psh'ing" sound. Still sounds like a vaccum leak to me. As for replacing it though.. go to advance discount, napa, etc etc and buy one.. It's no more than $20. That's rediculous that they're wanting $150 for that. I don't know about you or anyone else here, but if I had a shop tell me that they wanted $150 to change out a MAF that I didn't have, when in reality it was an IAT sensor... I'd be taking my car to a different mechanic. Almost sounds like they're taking you for a ride and trying to fork out a heap load of cash from you.

BTW.. did you use that lower intake that you posted in the other thread that you got from a salvage yard? The one that didn't match up exactly with yours? And hey, let me know if you need any other parts for your engine man, I have a whole disassembled 3.4L sitting in my garage. Was originally going to rebuild it.. but cant find any rebuild kits or specifications for the engine. Plus I'm broke :icon16:

That would be your IAT (Intake Air Temperature) sensor. It's used to calculate how much fuel to feed the cylinders. I don't see that causing a huge problem like the one you have, at most I would say it would cause your car to run rich or lean, and highly doubt it would cause your car to die and make a "psh'ing" sound. Still sounds like a vaccum leak to me. As for replacing it though.. go to advance discount, napa, etc etc and buy one.. It's no more than $20. That's rediculous that they're wanting $150 for that. I don't know about you or anyone else here, but if I had a shop tell me that they wanted $150 to change out a MAF that I didn't have, when in reality it was an IAT sensor... I'd be taking my car to a different mechanic. Almost sounds like they're taking you for a ride and trying to fork out a heap load of cash from you.

BTW.. did you use that lower intake that you posted in the other thread that you got from a salvage yard? The one that didn't match up exactly with yours? And hey, let me know if you need any other parts for your engine man, I have a whole disassembled 3.4L sitting in my garage. Was originally going to rebuild it.. but cant find any rebuild kits or specifications for the engine. Plus I'm broke :icon16:

Yes i did use the one i posted on here they said it would work they just seald up the whole with a frez plug do u think that could be the problem???

Thats strange. Have sombody other than them look at it, as fault finders. Ohter than that, hit a salvage yard up for one. I think the last one i bought second hand was around 30 bucks. Somthing just doesnt seem right tho. Has it ever had a problem like that? how long have you had the car?

Yes i did use the one i posted on here they said it would work they just seald up the whole with a frez plug do u think that could be the problem???

Well, here's the definition for a freeze plug:
An expansion plug located in the side of an engine block that is supposed to protect the block against freeze damage. Water expands when it turns to ice, and if the coolant doesn't have enough antifreeze protection it can freeze and crack the engine block. The freeze plugs (there are several) are supposed to pop out under such conditions to relieve the pressure on the block. Freeze plugs can often be a source of troublesome leaks as a result of internal cooling system corrosion. Ease of replacement depends on accessibility.

I'm not too familiar with freeze plugs, and what conditions they can operate under. But If I were to guess, I would say that the freeze plug that put in that hole is leaking out air which results in the loss of pressure in your mainfold.. which very well could be that "pshhh" sound that you're hearing. I honestly don't think freeze plugs were designed to stand up to high amounts of presure that the manifold creates. I'd bet $50 that's your problem.

Thats strange. Have sombody other than them look at it, as fault finders. Ohter than that, hit a salvage yard up for one. I think the last one i bought second hand was around 30 bucks. Somthing just doesnt seem right tho. Has it ever had a problem like that? how long have you had the car?

I have the car for about 3 year now its always had a small oil leak but it has never acted the way it is now. but in the last few months i have been losing about half a little when i ran the car i could not belive all the oil it was losing. when i wouild drive to the super market and get out of the car i could see the oil trial of my car. But i have another question i got the car back today it is running again but the SES was on. my new next door neighbor that i just found out works on car said he will fix the car for me. so i had him look at it for five min. He got the SES light to go off im not sure what he did but he fixed it. now my next question is on top of the upper intake MF there it some type of hose(kind of looks like a spark plug wire) or somthing i dont no what its called but they put trape around it y would do that and what does it do. if you dont no what im talking about i will post a pic

Post up i pic if you can. Would be a big help probably.

Its always nice to have a neibor who works on cars.

That would be the tube for your PCV Valve. It's nothing too major to be concerned with. If anything i would pull the tape off and see if there was any reason to wrap it up to begin with. As long as you can't feel a steady stream of air flowing from it then it shoudl be fine. But again, I would take off the tape to inspect it, and if there is any damage to it, then i would suggest going to an auto parts store and buy a replacement part.

That would be the tube for your PCV Valve. It's nothing too major to be concerned with. If anything i would pull the tape off and see if there was any reason to wrap it up to begin with. As long as you can't feel a steady stream of air flowing from it then it shoudl be fine. But again, I would take off the tape to inspect it, and if there is any damage to it, then i would suggest going to an auto parts store and buy a replacement part.

Would that make the car die because when the car started to act up the first time and i lifted up the hood thats what sound like was making the pushh sound

Would that make the car die because when the car started to act up the first time and i lifted up the hood thats what sound like was making the pushh sound
If that hose is making a sucking sound...yes it'd cause the car to stall because that is one massive vacuum leak.

Does the tape appear to be new? Start up the engine and move the hose around a little. See if it changes how it idles. Check all the other hoses too. Those usually get messed up like that when repairs are done. They get stuck after a long time and when you go to remove them they can be damaged very easy. It doesnt look like the piece in question is mesed up from age/deterioration. Looks more like its been ripped from pulling it. maybe sombody who took off the intake left it attached by mistake, and when they lifted off parts, it tore.

Finding that part might be a task. I dont think they sell those as individual parts, that "T" is assembled with the plastic hoses as one complete piece. They might try to charge you an arm and a leg for the entire plastic hoses with the split already attached to them. Auto parts stores sell hose attachments, but its rare they have the exact right one.

Does the tape appear to be new? Start up the engine and move the hose around a little. See if it changes how it idles. Check all the other hoses too. Those usually get messed up like that when repairs are done. They get stuck after a long time and when you go to remove them they can be damaged very easy. It doesnt look like the piece in question is mesed up from age/deterioration. Looks more like its been ripped from pulling it. maybe sombody who took off the intake left it attached by mistake, and when they lifted off parts, it tore.

Finding that part might be a task. I dont think they sell those as individual parts, that "T" is assembled with the plastic hoses as one complete piece. They might try to charge you an arm and a leg for the entire plastic hoses with the split already attached to them. Auto parts stores sell hose attachments, but its rare they have the exact right one.

If that hose is no longer needed Then I would follow it to the origin and put a cap on it. However I'm not familiar with 3rd Gens and someone with more exp can chime in here. That hose isn't connected to the Lower intake or the upper one? if it is then block it off there too or just reconnect the thing.

If that hose is no longer needed Then I would follow it to the origin and put a cap on it. However I'm not familiar with 3rd Gens and someone with more exp can chime in here. That hose isn't connected to the Lower intake or the upper one? if it is then block it off there too or just reconnect the thing.


1995 firebird is a 4th gen model. third gen is 82-92.

1995 firebird is a 4th gen model. third gen is 82-92.
:banghead: Doh you got me.. I misread his post. I had 92 in my head for some reason.

no big E. Im curious to know if that was the problem.

Let's not forget, MAFs cannot help the PCM determine trim if there is a intake leak past it :thumbsup:

hmmmmm

If that hose is making a sucking sound...yes it'd cause the car to stall because that is one massive vacuum leak.

As soon as that picture came up I said the same thing, then read this:thinkerg: