WIP Aston Martin DBR-9 Model Factory Hiro
Jamme
10-19-2006, 10:51 AM
Hello to everybody,
While i'm busy with the FXX's WIP, i've started another one.......
Here are a few pictures from the body primed:
http://wisup.net/File_7/SKY_BE/2006/Images2/061019/Skynet-157D19102006171930366283.jpg
http://wisup.net/File_7/SKY_BE/2006/Images2/061019/Skynet-157D19102006171931157553.jpg
http://wisup.net/File_7/SKY_BE/2006/Images2/061019/Skynet-157D19102006171933963786.jpg
The difference between the Renaissance and MFHiro are big.
On the Hiro, the cover on the front wing is a White Metal piece that needs to be glued in place, as is the front panel. This means that, for MFH, it is quite easy to make other versions without having to make another body...
http://wisup.net/File_7/SKY_BE/2006/Images2/061019/Skynet-157D19102006171935416615.jpg
All the vents are closed on the MFH model, so I decided to open them:
http://wisup.net/File_7/SKY_BE/2006/Images2/061019/Skynet-157D19102006171937591585.jpg
http://wisup.net/File_7/SKY_BE/2006/Images2/061019/Skynet-157D19102006171938496233.jpg
I also opened the exhaust hole, with a 3mm drill, to insert later a piece fo Tube for the exhaust.
http://wisup.net/File_7/SKY_BE/2006/Images2/061019/Skynet-157D19102006171940743173.jpg
That's all for the moment.
Thank you for looking
Thank you also for your comments and critics.
Nest step: sanding, white primer and sanding, painting and first coat of varnish.
Cheers,
Jamme
While i'm busy with the FXX's WIP, i've started another one.......
Here are a few pictures from the body primed:
http://wisup.net/File_7/SKY_BE/2006/Images2/061019/Skynet-157D19102006171930366283.jpg
http://wisup.net/File_7/SKY_BE/2006/Images2/061019/Skynet-157D19102006171931157553.jpg
http://wisup.net/File_7/SKY_BE/2006/Images2/061019/Skynet-157D19102006171933963786.jpg
The difference between the Renaissance and MFHiro are big.
On the Hiro, the cover on the front wing is a White Metal piece that needs to be glued in place, as is the front panel. This means that, for MFH, it is quite easy to make other versions without having to make another body...
http://wisup.net/File_7/SKY_BE/2006/Images2/061019/Skynet-157D19102006171935416615.jpg
All the vents are closed on the MFH model, so I decided to open them:
http://wisup.net/File_7/SKY_BE/2006/Images2/061019/Skynet-157D19102006171937591585.jpg
http://wisup.net/File_7/SKY_BE/2006/Images2/061019/Skynet-157D19102006171938496233.jpg
I also opened the exhaust hole, with a 3mm drill, to insert later a piece fo Tube for the exhaust.
http://wisup.net/File_7/SKY_BE/2006/Images2/061019/Skynet-157D19102006171940743173.jpg
That's all for the moment.
Thank you for looking
Thank you also for your comments and critics.
Nest step: sanding, white primer and sanding, painting and first coat of varnish.
Cheers,
Jamme
Decs0105
10-19-2006, 12:03 PM
Oh that's a great WIP! Which version is it, it looks like Silverstone 05? And what color will you use?
I ordered mine (lemans 06 version) from Hiroboy couple days ago, can't wait till I get the package :grinno:
I ordered mine (lemans 06 version) from Hiroboy couple days ago, can't wait till I get the package :grinno:
Jamme
10-19-2006, 12:15 PM
Oh that's a great WIP! Which version is it, it looks like Silverstone 05? And what color will you use?
I ordered mine (lemans 06 version) from Hiroboy couple days ago, can't wait till I get the package :grinno:
Hello, and thank you for posting.
It's the Le Mans Version 2005
(the silverstone version has the louvers on the front wings)
The color will be Middlesex Green with smal metallic parcels, from Dupont, mat basis (Centari 600).
You will see when you get it.........it's a great kit.
By the way......incredible work on your Mc Laren, I love it.
Hope to see it one day......As you live in Germany and I in Belgium, we are neighbours.
Cheers,
Jamme
I ordered mine (lemans 06 version) from Hiroboy couple days ago, can't wait till I get the package :grinno:
Hello, and thank you for posting.
It's the Le Mans Version 2005
(the silverstone version has the louvers on the front wings)
The color will be Middlesex Green with smal metallic parcels, from Dupont, mat basis (Centari 600).
You will see when you get it.........it's a great kit.
By the way......incredible work on your Mc Laren, I love it.
Hope to see it one day......As you live in Germany and I in Belgium, we are neighbours.
Cheers,
Jamme
klutz_100
10-19-2006, 01:07 PM
Jamme, great to see you working on this kit!!
Very good start.
This will be my next project so I look forward to learning from you. Give lots of details please :D
What are your plans for the rear diffuser? It looks VERY out of scale to me.
@ TheSaint111 - I got paint from hiroboy. Did you?
BTW, I'm your neighbour on the other side - I'm in Poland ;)
Very good start.
This will be my next project so I look forward to learning from you. Give lots of details please :D
What are your plans for the rear diffuser? It looks VERY out of scale to me.
@ TheSaint111 - I got paint from hiroboy. Did you?
BTW, I'm your neighbour on the other side - I'm in Poland ;)
5ynergyx
10-19-2006, 01:38 PM
This is a very cool kit!
davesans
10-19-2006, 02:44 PM
Great start I will be watching this one close.
Regards,
Dave
Regards,
Dave
KevHw
10-19-2006, 07:55 PM
Can't wait to see this finished. One of my all time favourite cars.
Decs0105
10-20-2006, 08:20 AM
@ TheSaint111 - I got paint from hiroboy. Did you?
BTW, I'm your neighbour on the other side - I'm in Poland ;)
hey neighbours :grinno:
I ordered the paint from Hiroboy too, I think it's mixed from the color code so it should be a good match.
BTW, I'm your neighbour on the other side - I'm in Poland ;)
hey neighbours :grinno:
I ordered the paint from Hiroboy too, I think it's mixed from the color code so it should be a good match.
drunken monkey
10-20-2006, 09:53 AM
fantastic.
i was hoping to see someone build one of the newer MFH kits.
I've been eyeing up the Aston Martin DB4GTZ kit for ages....
i was hoping to see someone build one of the newer MFH kits.
I've been eyeing up the Aston Martin DB4GTZ kit for ages....
sam01contact
10-20-2006, 01:10 PM
Nice bodywork! I will follow this thread closely!!
Decs0105
10-21-2006, 02:45 PM
I got my DB-R 9 today and your're right, it's a great kit!!! But I noticed something I have quite a big gap between body and chassis at the back of the car. That results in a problem that the chassis won't be on the same level as the body, I hope you get what I mean :grinno:. Do you have the same "problem"?
http://foto.arcor-online.net/palb/alben/88/52588/1280_3234316139396439.jpg
http://foto.arcor-online.net/palb/alben/88/52588/1280_3361303238393136.jpg
And one more thing what did you do to get these sharp panel lines?
http://foto.arcor-online.net/palb/alben/88/52588/1280_3234316139396439.jpg
http://foto.arcor-online.net/palb/alben/88/52588/1280_3361303238393136.jpg
And one more thing what did you do to get these sharp panel lines?
klutz_100
10-21-2006, 03:53 PM
But I noticed something I have quite a big gap between body and chassis at the back of the car. That results in a problem that the chassis won't be on the same level as the body, I hope you get what I mean :grinno:. Do you have the same "problem"?
I have the same thing on mine.
I haven't ally studied the kit yet but my guess was that it will be fairly easy to fix with some sanding.
I have the same thing on mine.
I haven't ally studied the kit yet but my guess was that it will be fairly easy to fix with some sanding.
Hiroboy
10-21-2006, 05:03 PM
I 've waiting to see someone working on these, I keep meaning to save one for myself but they all sell out to fast, Maybe this time as a new shipment is on it's way from Japan.
The paints I supply should be 100% correct, I have a freind who does work for Aston Martin in the UK and he got me the info for the paint.
I will ask MFH about the fitemnt problem with the base.
The paints I supply should be 100% correct, I have a freind who does work for Aston Martin in the UK and he got me the info for the paint.
I will ask MFH about the fitemnt problem with the base.
Decs0105
10-22-2006, 04:46 AM
I will ask MFH about the fitemnt problem with the base.
Thanks Steve, please post it here when you know something.
I have the same thing on mine.
I haven't ally studied the kit yet but my guess was that it will be fairly easy to fix with some sanding.
So I am not alone with this :smooch:. I am not quite sure about fixing it, the diffusor lays tight at the body and I don't know how much you can sand away without "ruining" the shape of the back... btw that reminds me that I need some more DB-R 9 pics :iceslolan
here you can see that it's just the middle that doesn't fit good, the back with the diffusor is quite ok.
http://foto.arcor-online.net/palb/alben/88/52588/1280_6165396563393336.jpg
but now back to the progress please :iceslolan
Thanks Steve, please post it here when you know something.
I have the same thing on mine.
I haven't ally studied the kit yet but my guess was that it will be fairly easy to fix with some sanding.
So I am not alone with this :smooch:. I am not quite sure about fixing it, the diffusor lays tight at the body and I don't know how much you can sand away without "ruining" the shape of the back... btw that reminds me that I need some more DB-R 9 pics :iceslolan
here you can see that it's just the middle that doesn't fit good, the back with the diffusor is quite ok.
http://foto.arcor-online.net/palb/alben/88/52588/1280_6165396563393336.jpg
but now back to the progress please :iceslolan
Jamme
10-22-2006, 10:14 AM
I got my DB-R 9 today and your're right, it's a great kit!!! But I noticed something I have quite a big gap between body and chassis at the back of the car. That results in a problem that the chassis won't be on the same level as the body, I hope you get what I mean :grinno:. Do you have the same "problem"?
http://foto.arcor-online.net/palb/alben/88/52588/1280_3234316139396439.jpg
http://foto.arcor-online.net/palb/alben/88/52588/1280_3361303238393136.jpg
And one more thing what did you do to get these sharp panel lines?
Hello, I got the same problem.
When you "push" on the chassis, to the body, it is better, but, anyway, it is not flush.
Personally, I think I will leave it as it is, because Ithink the sanding will be à Problem.......
Greetings,
Jamme
http://foto.arcor-online.net/palb/alben/88/52588/1280_3234316139396439.jpg
http://foto.arcor-online.net/palb/alben/88/52588/1280_3361303238393136.jpg
And one more thing what did you do to get these sharp panel lines?
Hello, I got the same problem.
When you "push" on the chassis, to the body, it is better, but, anyway, it is not flush.
Personally, I think I will leave it as it is, because Ithink the sanding will be à Problem.......
Greetings,
Jamme
Gamerxz
10-22-2006, 11:09 AM
Man.... Thanks GUYS im really grateful that this thread was started! I almost made a purchase for this kit... but now that i seen that gap... im hoping someone could find a way to fix it... it looks really big! i hope hiroboy could get a response from MFH on this issue so i could get the kit and start building this car.. Been waiting a long long time to get my hands on a aston martin DBR9/DB9 kit.
ScaleCentral
10-22-2006, 11:27 AM
My kit has the same thing. It does though look like you can do a couple of things. You can sand down the front pegs that come from under the hood. The second is sand the rear bumper at a slightly higher angle where it meets the diffuser. Finally, one might just have to add a strip of styrene across the bottom edge. I think a combination of all of these might be the way to go. Overall it is a great kit and I am so glad I got one.
Nic
Nic
Jamme
10-22-2006, 11:34 AM
I forgot to answer......
I rescribed all panel lines with an 11 blade in an X-Acto...
By the way, I just had a closer look at my car.
On mine, if I tighten the screws, it is almost flush with the body.
Really a small difference, so.....
Cheers,
Jamme
I rescribed all panel lines with an 11 blade in an X-Acto...
By the way, I just had a closer look at my car.
On mine, if I tighten the screws, it is almost flush with the body.
Really a small difference, so.....
Cheers,
Jamme
Decs0105
10-22-2006, 03:28 PM
I forgot to answer......
I rescribed all panel lines with an 11 blade in an X-Acto...
By the way, I just had a closer look at my car.
On mine, if I tighten the screws, it is almost flush with the body.
Really a small difference, so.....
Cheers,
Jamme
thanks for your answers
If it fits with the screws tighted than I think it could be ok because I studied the kit + manual a bit more and saw that a PE Part will be attached to the body which probably eliminates the small "step" between body and chassis...
http://foto.arcor-online.net/palb/alben/88/52588/1280_3063356539313930.jpg
I rescribed all panel lines with an 11 blade in an X-Acto...
By the way, I just had a closer look at my car.
On mine, if I tighten the screws, it is almost flush with the body.
Really a small difference, so.....
Cheers,
Jamme
thanks for your answers
If it fits with the screws tighted than I think it could be ok because I studied the kit + manual a bit more and saw that a PE Part will be attached to the body which probably eliminates the small "step" between body and chassis...
http://foto.arcor-online.net/palb/alben/88/52588/1280_3063356539313930.jpg
Hiroboy
10-22-2006, 04:50 PM
I have email them and will post the reply, meanwhile here are a few pics of it completed from MFH's Website.
http://www.modelfactoryhiro.com/shop/model/car/dbr905ss-4.jpg
http://www.modelfactoryhiro.com/shop/model/car/dbr905ss-2.jpg
http://www.modelfactoryhiro.com/shop/model/car/dbr905ss-3.jpg
http://www.modelfactoryhiro.com/shop/model/car/dbr906lm%20017.jpg
http://www.modelfactoryhiro.com/shop/model/car/dbr906lm-021.jpg
http://www.modelfactoryhiro.com/shop/model/car/dbr905ss-4.jpg
http://www.modelfactoryhiro.com/shop/model/car/dbr905ss-2.jpg
http://www.modelfactoryhiro.com/shop/model/car/dbr905ss-3.jpg
http://www.modelfactoryhiro.com/shop/model/car/dbr906lm%20017.jpg
http://www.modelfactoryhiro.com/shop/model/car/dbr906lm-021.jpg
sam01contact
10-23-2006, 10:19 AM
If it fits with the screws tighted than I think it could be ok because I studied the kit + manual a bit more and saw that a PE Part will be attached to the body which probably eliminates the small "step" between body and chassis...
Thesaint111, you're absolutely right, If you screw the body to the chassis and put the PE side plates, the "step" is eliminated, and the alignment is perfect.:grinyes:
Thesaint111, you're absolutely right, If you screw the body to the chassis and put the PE side plates, the "step" is eliminated, and the alignment is perfect.:grinyes:
Technoman
10-23-2006, 12:13 PM
Looks like a REALLY nice kit. The Le Mans version looks killer.
klutz_100
10-23-2006, 12:45 PM
Errm, guys...I think we are in danger of hijacking Jamme's thread - sorry Jamme :)
Jamme
10-28-2006, 03:20 PM
Hello,
Here is a small Up.
Body has been primed, painted in Aston Martin Middlesex green(Dupont Centari 600 Mat base, small particles) then it received a first coat of varnish:
Picture in the shadow:
http://wisup.net/File_7/SKY_BE/2006/Images2/061028/Skynet-157D28102006220025318235.jpg
Picture taken in the morning sun (but not on the dock of the bay.....:screwy: )
http://wisup.net/File_7/SKY_BE/2006/Images2/061028/Skynet-157D28102006220027454849.jpg
A close UP....:
http://wisup.net/File_7/SKY_BE/2006/Images2/061028/Skynet-157D28102006220029696519.jpg
The body has then been lightly sanded, and then decalled....:
http://wisup.net/File_7/SKY_BE/2006/Images2/061028/Skynet-157D28102006220030130329.jpg
http://wisup.net/File_7/SKY_BE/2006/Images2/061028/Skynet-157D28102006220032679672.jpg
Next step will be: 2nd coat af varnish, sanding, 3rd coat of varnish, sanding, polishing......
Thank you for your critics.
Greetings,
Jamme
Here is a small Up.
Body has been primed, painted in Aston Martin Middlesex green(Dupont Centari 600 Mat base, small particles) then it received a first coat of varnish:
Picture in the shadow:
http://wisup.net/File_7/SKY_BE/2006/Images2/061028/Skynet-157D28102006220025318235.jpg
Picture taken in the morning sun (but not on the dock of the bay.....:screwy: )
http://wisup.net/File_7/SKY_BE/2006/Images2/061028/Skynet-157D28102006220027454849.jpg
A close UP....:
http://wisup.net/File_7/SKY_BE/2006/Images2/061028/Skynet-157D28102006220029696519.jpg
The body has then been lightly sanded, and then decalled....:
http://wisup.net/File_7/SKY_BE/2006/Images2/061028/Skynet-157D28102006220030130329.jpg
http://wisup.net/File_7/SKY_BE/2006/Images2/061028/Skynet-157D28102006220032679672.jpg
Next step will be: 2nd coat af varnish, sanding, 3rd coat of varnish, sanding, polishing......
Thank you for your critics.
Greetings,
Jamme
Hiroboy
10-28-2006, 04:45 PM
Looks very nice :)
klutz_100
10-28-2006, 05:00 PM
I love it Jamme when you ask for critic :lol:
Work looks good as does the color. What clear did you use?
Work looks good as does the color. What clear did you use?
91p10nizmo
10-28-2006, 06:37 PM
Looks very nice. Im watching with great interest.
Jamme
10-29-2006, 01:06 PM
I love it Jamme when you ask for critic :lol:
Work looks good as does the color. What clear did you use?
Dupont, as usual.
Thank you all for looking and for the comments.
Cheers.
Jamme
Work looks good as does the color. What clear did you use?
Dupont, as usual.
Thank you all for looking and for the comments.
Cheers.
Jamme
WasteGas
10-30-2006, 12:44 PM
That thing is looking sharp! Keep up the good work. Too bad I'm too broke to afford one of these. :)
Samurai75007
10-31-2006, 01:11 AM
Thats one sexy car.
davesans
10-31-2006, 07:33 PM
The body looks great good job
Regards,
Dave
Regards,
Dave
nervestrikes75
11-10-2006, 09:25 PM
Wow guys your work looks great. I too am starting this kit the weekend. I decided to go with modelmaster metalic green for the paint. Do you think that it would be too far off for the color. The reason I ask is because I wasn't able to find the, I think forest green color. If I were to use Tamiya paint what color would be closest?
Thanks
Kevin
Thanks
Kevin
RallyRaider
11-10-2006, 09:59 PM
Super work so far Jamme.
Just ordered one of these myself for Christmas. :) The Middlesex Green looks perfect, would you happen to know the exact colour code?
Just ordered one of these myself for Christmas. :) The Middlesex Green looks perfect, would you happen to know the exact colour code?
ales
11-10-2006, 11:29 PM
Middlesex Green should be 0965 or 90005.
On a related note, Jamme, I was wondering - have you considered the colour called "DBR9 Racing Green" code 5019D? I haven't seen it in person, just wondering if it may be the exact colour used on the race cars.
On a related note, Jamme, I was wondering - have you considered the colour called "DBR9 Racing Green" code 5019D? I haven't seen it in person, just wondering if it may be the exact colour used on the race cars.
Jamme
11-11-2006, 02:14 AM
Wow guys your work looks great. I too am starting this kit the weekend. I decided to go with modelmaster metalic green for the paint. Do you think that it would be too far off for the color. The reason I ask is because I wasn't able to find the, I think forest green color. If I were to use Tamiya paint what color would be closest?
Thanks
Kevin
I'm not quite shure thie Modelmaster metallic green is OK.
The color I use is the Middlesex Green from Dupont, Centari 600, mat base, fine metal particles and clear coated with Dupont 690S.
Honnestly, I think this color is nearly a perfect match from the original Aston.
It's an amazing color, light not dark (as I saw so many finished models in contests, clubs, and so one, many (for not saying all) where (much) to dark, and the metal particles were much too big).
I think the Middlesex green is one of the most difficult colors to show allright on a model.
I don't think there is a close match in Tamiya colors.
Renaissance sells a can of "DBR9 green" but as I saw one of the Aston's made and pained by them, I think the green is too dark and not enough luminous.
Thank you anyway for looking.
Cheers,
Jamme
Thanks
Kevin
I'm not quite shure thie Modelmaster metallic green is OK.
The color I use is the Middlesex Green from Dupont, Centari 600, mat base, fine metal particles and clear coated with Dupont 690S.
Honnestly, I think this color is nearly a perfect match from the original Aston.
It's an amazing color, light not dark (as I saw so many finished models in contests, clubs, and so one, many (for not saying all) where (much) to dark, and the metal particles were much too big).
I think the Middlesex green is one of the most difficult colors to show allright on a model.
I don't think there is a close match in Tamiya colors.
Renaissance sells a can of "DBR9 green" but as I saw one of the Aston's made and pained by them, I think the green is too dark and not enough luminous.
Thank you anyway for looking.
Cheers,
Jamme
Jamme
11-11-2006, 02:20 AM
Middlesex Green should be 0965 or 90005.
On a related note, Jamme, I was wondering - have you considered the colour called "DBR9 Racing Green" code 5019D? I haven't seen it in person, just wondering if it may be the exact colour used on the race cars.
Hello,
I know the real color of the real car is Middlesex Green. (an old Aston Martin color, as they used on their DB3, I think, but not quite shure it is on that model, could be the DB2 or DB4)
So I'm not quite shure the DBR9 Racing Green is the excact color.....
Thank you for your comment, anyway.
Cheers,
Jamme
On a related note, Jamme, I was wondering - have you considered the colour called "DBR9 Racing Green" code 5019D? I haven't seen it in person, just wondering if it may be the exact colour used on the race cars.
Hello,
I know the real color of the real car is Middlesex Green. (an old Aston Martin color, as they used on their DB3, I think, but not quite shure it is on that model, could be the DB2 or DB4)
So I'm not quite shure the DBR9 Racing Green is the excact color.....
Thank you for your comment, anyway.
Cheers,
Jamme
A_C
11-11-2006, 08:35 PM
So I am not alone with this :smooch:. I am not quite sure about fixing it, the diffusor lays tight at the body and I don't know how much you can sand away without "ruining" the shape of the back... btw that reminds me that I need some more DB-R 9 pics :iceslolan
here you can see that it's just the middle that doesn't fit good, the back with the diffusor is quite ok.
http://foto.arcor-online.net/palb/alben/88/52588/1280_6165396563393336.jpg
but now back to the progress please :iceslolan
I think it's because of the "bented" base...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y159/ac8dl/DBR9/DB9-01.jpg
when I push the front to ground, the curvature can be easily seen...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y159/ac8dl/DBR9/DB9-02.jpg
That's why, as Jamme said, when you push the base towards the body, the gap will be minimized a litte. Hope MFH will have a solution on this issue... :frown:
Jamme, very nice progress!
Cheers,
A_C
here you can see that it's just the middle that doesn't fit good, the back with the diffusor is quite ok.
http://foto.arcor-online.net/palb/alben/88/52588/1280_6165396563393336.jpg
but now back to the progress please :iceslolan
I think it's because of the "bented" base...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y159/ac8dl/DBR9/DB9-01.jpg
when I push the front to ground, the curvature can be easily seen...
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y159/ac8dl/DBR9/DB9-02.jpg
That's why, as Jamme said, when you push the base towards the body, the gap will be minimized a litte. Hope MFH will have a solution on this issue... :frown:
Jamme, very nice progress!
Cheers,
A_C
RallyRaider
11-13-2006, 03:55 AM
Thanks for the code Alex. I'm having some Middlesex Green mixed, will pick it up tomorrow. :)
Has anybody tried straightening the resin base out in hot water or similar? I hopw to get my kit later this week, so will be interested to see if it is bent too. Although, since technically it will be my christmas present I probably should wait until then. :p
Has anybody tried straightening the resin base out in hot water or similar? I hopw to get my kit later this week, so will be interested to see if it is bent too. Although, since technically it will be my christmas present I probably should wait until then. :p
A_C
11-13-2006, 09:34 AM
Has anybody tried straightening the resin base out in hot water or similar?
It won't work because the chasis is so thick & the correction is hard to control. Maybe you try it in Christmas... :P
Instead, I'm thinking to cut a line across the middle of the trunk or somewhere else. Then insert with some resin residue to force the chasis to bend towards the ground. Of course, it would be better if MFH could correct the chasis for us. :)
Cheers,
A_C
It won't work because the chasis is so thick & the correction is hard to control. Maybe you try it in Christmas... :P
Instead, I'm thinking to cut a line across the middle of the trunk or somewhere else. Then insert with some resin residue to force the chasis to bend towards the ground. Of course, it would be better if MFH could correct the chasis for us. :)
Cheers,
A_C
stoiky
11-13-2006, 04:02 PM
Just found this on the Aston website
Dupont
Dupont has worked with Aston Martin Racing to develop the distinctive Aston Martin Racing Green paint for the DBR9. Dupont is one of the world’s leading automotive paint suppliers and provides the high quality paints and finishes for the Aston Martin range of road cars
http://www.astonmartinracing.com/ENG/partners
Dupont
Dupont has worked with Aston Martin Racing to develop the distinctive Aston Martin Racing Green paint for the DBR9. Dupont is one of the world’s leading automotive paint suppliers and provides the high quality paints and finishes for the Aston Martin range of road cars
http://www.astonmartinracing.com/ENG/partners
nervestrikes75
11-13-2006, 04:26 PM
Today I painted the body with Test (modelmaster) Paint 1630 Metal Flake green. I regret painting it this green because the panel lines have disappeared due to the thick consistency of the paint. I haven't removed it yet. I will wait until it dries to see what it looks like finished. I will get you guys a picture of it ASAP. Doesn't look to bad though it is thick paint and the color is a mildly dark green that has the metal flakes to give it some umph. Please God let it dry with visible panel lines. We spend too much money on these resin models.....:banghead:
RallyRaider
11-14-2006, 02:24 AM
Your are going to hate me for this Jamme, sorry. I've just been looking at Le Mans '05 pictures and in none of the pics I've seen did car 59 have the event decal on the roof. Car 58 certainly did, but I can find no evidence one on 59. I guess if you've already varnished over the top it isn't possible to remove it. Or maybe the decal was there at some point during the event? :dunno:
Jamme
11-14-2006, 02:38 AM
Your are going to hate me for this Jamme, sorry. I've just been looking at Le Mans '05 pictures and in none of the pics I've seen did car 59 have the event decal on the roof. Car 58 certainly did, but I can find no evidence one on 59. I guess if you've already varnished over the top it isn't possible to remove it. Or maybe the decal was there at some point during the event? :dunno:
No problem at all, I wan't hate you.
Maybe you are right, for the sticker on the roof.
Now, as you said, the car is allready varnished, but as I only painted a really sall quantity over the decals, and, as I have to sand it smooth before putting the final coat, I still can remove it (by sanding), but, Maybe some time during the race, or maybe before, the car could have had the sticker, so, I think I will let it like that.
Thank you and everybody for looking, anyway.
Now for the fixing problem (chassis/body), on my sample, the only think I have to do to fix it properly, is to remove 1mm on the blocks where the front screws are coming, tightening the 4 scrws and that's it.
Happy guy that I am.......
Cheers,
Jamme
No problem at all, I wan't hate you.
Maybe you are right, for the sticker on the roof.
Now, as you said, the car is allready varnished, but as I only painted a really sall quantity over the decals, and, as I have to sand it smooth before putting the final coat, I still can remove it (by sanding), but, Maybe some time during the race, or maybe before, the car could have had the sticker, so, I think I will let it like that.
Thank you and everybody for looking, anyway.
Now for the fixing problem (chassis/body), on my sample, the only think I have to do to fix it properly, is to remove 1mm on the blocks where the front screws are coming, tightening the 4 scrws and that's it.
Happy guy that I am.......
Cheers,
Jamme
Jamme
11-14-2006, 08:50 AM
Hello,
I just looked at the pictures I have, and it seems that Rally Raider is right.......
So............
I sanded the event decal off.
No problem at all.
I will varnish (last coat) this evening.
Some pictures I hope tomorrow.
Cheers,
Jamme
I just looked at the pictures I have, and it seems that Rally Raider is right.......
So............
I sanded the event decal off.
No problem at all.
I will varnish (last coat) this evening.
Some pictures I hope tomorrow.
Cheers,
Jamme
ales
11-14-2006, 09:53 AM
Ouch...
Decs0105
11-14-2006, 11:30 AM
I will varnish (last coat) this evening.
Some pictures I hope tomorrow.
Cheers,
Jamme
Good luck, I hope everthing goes well and we get some pics tomorrow :grinyes:. Meanwhile I found some pics of the Aston @ LeMans05 click (http://www.matildemodel.it/iconeastondbr9.htm). BTW If anyone has some pics from the astons @ LeMans06 please post them...!
Some pictures I hope tomorrow.
Cheers,
Jamme
Good luck, I hope everthing goes well and we get some pics tomorrow :grinyes:. Meanwhile I found some pics of the Aston @ LeMans05 click (http://www.matildemodel.it/iconeastondbr9.htm). BTW If anyone has some pics from the astons @ LeMans06 please post them...!
Jamme
11-14-2006, 11:45 AM
Thank you for the pictures.
Jamme
Jamme
jaykay640
11-15-2006, 02:32 AM
You can also find pictures in the photo archive at motorsport.com
Tim Lucas
11-16-2006, 02:35 PM
Does anyone know what the three depressions on the wings are for? There are one each on the two front wings and one on the rear offside wing. Are the air-jacks, cut-off switches or what?
Thanks
Thanks
Jamme
11-16-2006, 03:10 PM
Hello,
There are the fittings for the air jacks.
I removed them as I will mage new ones in aluminium.
Cheers,
Jamme
There are the fittings for the air jacks.
I removed them as I will mage new ones in aluminium.
Cheers,
Jamme
fola
12-12-2006, 12:38 AM
any new pogress reports?
racingminiatures
12-12-2006, 10:56 AM
Hi Guys,
I don't want to feed the fires here but just want to post some thoughts. I think comparing the Hiro and Renaissance models is a bit of Apples and Oranges. I have compared them side by side and don't see a huge difference in the bodies. There is some but I think either model built up is a great representation of the real thing. It is perhaps a bit overly critical to look at the pictures that Etienne posted and to say he has made an inaccurate model. The difference in his model's lines to the real car is probably something like 5% in a few spots. Scale that down to 24th scale and you are talking about a difference in fractions of a mm. Is that really a big deal?
I think we should be grateful that kit makers are producing kits of cars we want to build. In comparing the Renaissance and Hiro models they both have advatages over each other. Yes the Hiro body is more symetrical and "accurate". But Hiro has something like $100,000 worth of CAD equipment and 3D prototyping machines to make his masters directly from computer files and a team of designers etc. And even so they make small mistakes too. Hiro's new F2003GA has an exhaust that is not correct. But so what. It will still look amazing when built. To compare though, Renaissance is hand made by one guy. I think the Renaissance DBR9 actually has more detail, a better interior and better decals than the Hiro kit and actually do prefer it over the Hiro one (which has a great body but a bit of a sparse interior). Some of you may not agree but it really depends on what the individual modeler is looking for. I think it is very difficult to find any model that is 100% accurate. And as somebody mentioned, if it were a 100% accurate replica in 1:24 it probably would not look right to our eyes.
So I think constructive criticism for Etienne so he can improve the very few things in the kit that could be made better is a good thing. But I think it is unfair to completely tear apart his model as I have seen far worse kits from much larger manufactuerers.
It all boils down to whether you are a rivet counter or just want to build a model that represents the car. If you are a rivet counter that is your choice and fine with me but I think the majority of modelers are in the second camp. For the rivet counters I don't think you will ever be completely satisfied with any kit out of the box and will always be working to change and "fix" things. For the rest of us models like the Renaissance DBR9 build into a nicely detailed replica that looks just fine to my eye when done.
So Etienne, please don't be overly upset and please continue to produce your great products.
Regards,
Ron
Racing Miniatures
www.racingminiatures.com
I don't want to feed the fires here but just want to post some thoughts. I think comparing the Hiro and Renaissance models is a bit of Apples and Oranges. I have compared them side by side and don't see a huge difference in the bodies. There is some but I think either model built up is a great representation of the real thing. It is perhaps a bit overly critical to look at the pictures that Etienne posted and to say he has made an inaccurate model. The difference in his model's lines to the real car is probably something like 5% in a few spots. Scale that down to 24th scale and you are talking about a difference in fractions of a mm. Is that really a big deal?
I think we should be grateful that kit makers are producing kits of cars we want to build. In comparing the Renaissance and Hiro models they both have advatages over each other. Yes the Hiro body is more symetrical and "accurate". But Hiro has something like $100,000 worth of CAD equipment and 3D prototyping machines to make his masters directly from computer files and a team of designers etc. And even so they make small mistakes too. Hiro's new F2003GA has an exhaust that is not correct. But so what. It will still look amazing when built. To compare though, Renaissance is hand made by one guy. I think the Renaissance DBR9 actually has more detail, a better interior and better decals than the Hiro kit and actually do prefer it over the Hiro one (which has a great body but a bit of a sparse interior). Some of you may not agree but it really depends on what the individual modeler is looking for. I think it is very difficult to find any model that is 100% accurate. And as somebody mentioned, if it were a 100% accurate replica in 1:24 it probably would not look right to our eyes.
So I think constructive criticism for Etienne so he can improve the very few things in the kit that could be made better is a good thing. But I think it is unfair to completely tear apart his model as I have seen far worse kits from much larger manufactuerers.
It all boils down to whether you are a rivet counter or just want to build a model that represents the car. If you are a rivet counter that is your choice and fine with me but I think the majority of modelers are in the second camp. For the rivet counters I don't think you will ever be completely satisfied with any kit out of the box and will always be working to change and "fix" things. For the rest of us models like the Renaissance DBR9 build into a nicely detailed replica that looks just fine to my eye when done.
So Etienne, please don't be overly upset and please continue to produce your great products.
Regards,
Ron
Racing Miniatures
www.racingminiatures.com
kingkai
12-13-2006, 04:28 AM
You have said it all.
I totally agree with Ron,
I have both kits and have both have there ups and downs.
And I will enjoy building both:sunglasse
I totally agree with Ron,
I have both kits and have both have there ups and downs.
And I will enjoy building both:sunglasse
klutz_100
12-13-2006, 05:39 AM
Gentlmen.
This is Jamme's WIP.
The DBR-9 story is here (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=524574) or here (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?p=4517128#post4517128) .
This is Jamme's WIP.
The DBR-9 story is here (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=524574) or here (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?p=4517128#post4517128) .
rod_k2
12-13-2006, 06:25 AM
Oh,and don't forget...Build a model without fix,or mod to work right it's not fun!!
Your model looks awesome!
Your model looks awesome!
Tamar
12-18-2006, 07:16 PM
It won't work because the chasis is so thick & the correction is hard to control. Maybe you try it in Christmas... :P
Instead, I'm thinking to cut a line across the middle of the trunk or somewhere else. Then insert with some resin residue to force the chasis to bend towards the ground. Of course, it would be better if MFH could correct the chasis for us. :)
Cheers,
A_C
Hello Jamme
I hope you have not progressed to far with the interior, if not you might want to try this trick to straighten the chassis.
Mount (bolt or screw) the floorpan on a thick piece of MDF (18mm or thicker)
Tighten the screws until the floor is flat with the MDF.
Put the whole contraption in a hot air oven.
Let it simmer for 1 - 2 hrs @ 40-50 degrees celcius.
Should be enough to heat up the whole block of resin en get it to set perfectly flat.
After this backing proces is complete dump it in the fridge for 10 minutes to make it set. take it out and leave it overnight.
If all goes well the whole chassis should be straight as an arrow
Instead, I'm thinking to cut a line across the middle of the trunk or somewhere else. Then insert with some resin residue to force the chasis to bend towards the ground. Of course, it would be better if MFH could correct the chasis for us. :)
Cheers,
A_C
Hello Jamme
I hope you have not progressed to far with the interior, if not you might want to try this trick to straighten the chassis.
Mount (bolt or screw) the floorpan on a thick piece of MDF (18mm or thicker)
Tighten the screws until the floor is flat with the MDF.
Put the whole contraption in a hot air oven.
Let it simmer for 1 - 2 hrs @ 40-50 degrees celcius.
Should be enough to heat up the whole block of resin en get it to set perfectly flat.
After this backing proces is complete dump it in the fridge for 10 minutes to make it set. take it out and leave it overnight.
If all goes well the whole chassis should be straight as an arrow
fola
06-01-2008, 03:22 AM
Hi Jamme....
the world is sooooo small.
I have admired your work for years and only now realise that we have actually met and "know" eachother..... funny.
Keep up the fantastic work, you are a true artist.
Fola
http://lh3.ggpht.com/fola.osu/SCp92-j1MxI/AAAAAAAAM1A/Fo39hlZB_-U/s400/DSC00250.JPG
the world is sooooo small.
I have admired your work for years and only now realise that we have actually met and "know" eachother..... funny.
Keep up the fantastic work, you are a true artist.
Fola
http://lh3.ggpht.com/fola.osu/SCp92-j1MxI/AAAAAAAAM1A/Fo39hlZB_-U/s400/DSC00250.JPG
Jamme
06-01-2008, 03:30 AM
Hello,
Thank you Fola for the kind words!
I must hadmit it was the same for me, looking at your slot bodyes, here on the forum.
I 'm also happy to know you in "person" at Tamar Race!
Keep on the new bodyes!
Cheers,
Jamme
Thank you Fola for the kind words!
I must hadmit it was the same for me, looking at your slot bodyes, here on the forum.
I 'm also happy to know you in "person" at Tamar Race!
Keep on the new bodyes!
Cheers,
Jamme
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