Where is the starter?
xborg99
09-19-2006, 05:48 PM
Hey All
Can some let me know where is the starter. I jack up the truck (use stands) and look all over for the starter. I purchased haynes repair guide 47017 but the under side is in the guide is different. I purchase a NAPA starter 44-6639. So I am ready to go. I do not mind spending a few days on it. So if someone can walk me thru the process or just point out the location (picture will be great) All advice will be appreciated.
I have a 1999 Rodeo 4W4 LS DOHC 3.2L
Thanks in advance
cheers
Can some let me know where is the starter. I jack up the truck (use stands) and look all over for the starter. I purchased haynes repair guide 47017 but the under side is in the guide is different. I purchase a NAPA starter 44-6639. So I am ready to go. I do not mind spending a few days on it. So if someone can walk me thru the process or just point out the location (picture will be great) All advice will be appreciated.
I have a 1999 Rodeo 4W4 LS DOHC 3.2L
Thanks in advance
cheers
Gizmo42
09-19-2006, 06:00 PM
Its on the drivers side just in front of the bell houseing. If you take off the drivers side wheel and look between the back of the wheel well and the frame you will see it. I bent the metal in that area out and went through there to get to the wiring. The metal bends easy by hand and was easier to me to go in that way.
You will have to take the exhaust loose on that side to get the starter out. Take it loose from the exhaust manifold and also the flange after the cat converter where it connects to the Y-pipe. Then you can maneuver it around to get enough room for the starter to come out. This was the hardest part with mine. The bolts for the y-pipe flange were rusted solid and I ended up having to cut the heads off the bolts (even with a 24" breaker bar and easy-out sockets I couldnt get the heads to break off). I just have it clamped together now.
Look for alignment dowels on the old starter before taking the core back. Most reman starters dont have them on so you will need to swap them to the new one. Didnt know about that when I did mine.
You will have to take the exhaust loose on that side to get the starter out. Take it loose from the exhaust manifold and also the flange after the cat converter where it connects to the Y-pipe. Then you can maneuver it around to get enough room for the starter to come out. This was the hardest part with mine. The bolts for the y-pipe flange were rusted solid and I ended up having to cut the heads off the bolts (even with a 24" breaker bar and easy-out sockets I couldnt get the heads to break off). I just have it clamped together now.
Look for alignment dowels on the old starter before taking the core back. Most reman starters dont have them on so you will need to swap them to the new one. Didnt know about that when I did mine.
xborg99
09-19-2006, 08:06 PM
Thanks Dave
I found it. Man it's in tight quarters. Ok so is this the steps
1. Disconnect the battery
2. jack up the truck and put it on stands
3. Remove driver side tire
4. Disconnect the power and ground leads from the starter through the wheel well
5. From under the truck beside the starter unscew the 3 bolts from the pipe on the left
6. Unscrew the other end of the pipe. Y-side
7. Unbolt 2 bolts from the old starter
8. wiggle the starter out past the left pipe
9. reverse the procedure with the new starter
Is that correct?
I just want to confirm the procedure before doing it.
How long did it take you?
Your advice is apprecited
cheers
I found it. Man it's in tight quarters. Ok so is this the steps
1. Disconnect the battery
2. jack up the truck and put it on stands
3. Remove driver side tire
4. Disconnect the power and ground leads from the starter through the wheel well
5. From under the truck beside the starter unscew the 3 bolts from the pipe on the left
6. Unscrew the other end of the pipe. Y-side
7. Unbolt 2 bolts from the old starter
8. wiggle the starter out past the left pipe
9. reverse the procedure with the new starter
Is that correct?
I just want to confirm the procedure before doing it.
How long did it take you?
Your advice is apprecited
cheers
trooperbc
09-19-2006, 09:44 PM
i suggest change Number 1 to
1. disconnect the battery ! ! !
1. disconnect the battery ! ! !
Cat Fuzz
09-19-2006, 11:18 PM
i suggest change Number 1 to
1. disconnect the battery ! ! !
Not just yes but HELL YES! :grinyes: :grinyes: :grinyes:
1. disconnect the battery ! ! !
Not just yes but HELL YES! :grinyes: :grinyes: :grinyes:
Gizmo42
09-20-2006, 12:06 AM
Thats the proceedure with trooperbc's addition.
Took me over 6 hrs :banghead: because I was fighting with the y-pipe bolts. If yours arent rusted solid it will be much much quicker then that. Went pretty quick for me on the 2nd day when I brought home my sawzall to cut the bolts off. Most of my time was spent trying to get the pipe undone and trying to figure out a way to do it with out removing the pipe.
Took me over 6 hrs :banghead: because I was fighting with the y-pipe bolts. If yours arent rusted solid it will be much much quicker then that. Went pretty quick for me on the 2nd day when I brought home my sawzall to cut the bolts off. Most of my time was spent trying to get the pipe undone and trying to figure out a way to do it with out removing the pipe.
redbug
09-20-2006, 06:24 AM
Purchased nut removers from sears to get my y pipe off... Worked great. I am not talking about the socket with little pins on it. It was a set that fit inside of a socket and screwed istself onto the rusted nut. Put a super amount of tourque on the remover and it held enough to loosen the nut.
xborg99
09-20-2006, 06:40 AM
tropperbc & cat fuzzfor the advice I modified the order.
added disconnect starter
redbud - cool
do you still have the part number of the nut remover you bought from sears?
thx all for the great advice
cheers
added disconnect starter
redbud - cool
do you still have the part number of the nut remover you bought from sears?
thx all for the great advice
cheers
Gizmo42
09-20-2006, 11:16 AM
THIS (http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_SessionID=@@@@0717809764.1158768723@ @@@&BV_EngineID=ccicaddiljgiggkcefecemldffidfko.0&vertical=SEARS&sid=I0093600100004900085&pid=00952162000) is what I used. They grip really well but even with a 24" breaker bar I couldnt get them to move or break. Would have been so easy if I could have used my nut splitters and just break the nuts off, but some genious at isuzu decided it was a good idea to weld them to the flange :banghead:
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