how to clean ABS sensors...?
Fordina
08-07-2006, 06:25 PM
Can someone please tell me how to clean the ABS sensors? Is there a particular product I should use? If there's rust involved, what should I use? I don't want to mess any of them up by using the wrong product, but I need to clean them to attempt to get our ABS light off. Thanks for any help you are able to provide!
brinkz
08-07-2006, 06:51 PM
well i had this same issue....actually my dirty sensors were causing the abs to kick in when coming to a nice slow stop. Almost got into an accident cause of them. Anyway, all i used to clean then was sensor safe brake cleaner. After that even with the little bit of rust the problem went away. Not sure if a wire brush or steel wool would be a good idea...I am sure someone will correct that if I am wrong. But like I said my accumulation was all brake dust and crap, and brake cleaner cleaned it right up....Good luck
busboy4
08-07-2006, 07:07 PM
Hi
I used brake cleaner on mine ('96) as well. I did, however, on one of the rears use some fine sandpaper to remove some rust. I don't necessarily say it was the thing to do, but it got it working and my Abs light is out. In my case I knew my ABS problem was the right rear and it had a lot more corrosion on its "tab" than the left had. As the "tabs" on the rear sensors are magnetized, they build up a covering of shavings etc. I reasoned that the corrosion along with the build up of material weakened the ability to produce a signal. Time will tell.
I used brake cleaner on mine ('96) as well. I did, however, on one of the rears use some fine sandpaper to remove some rust. I don't necessarily say it was the thing to do, but it got it working and my Abs light is out. In my case I knew my ABS problem was the right rear and it had a lot more corrosion on its "tab" than the left had. As the "tabs" on the rear sensors are magnetized, they build up a covering of shavings etc. I reasoned that the corrosion along with the build up of material weakened the ability to produce a signal. Time will tell.
96wWindstar180K
08-07-2006, 07:17 PM
Hi
I had a problem with both the front and rear. The rear I cleaned with Brake Clean and the front actually had a hole in the sensor caused by the new half shaft that was replaced by Sears. When the sensor hit the gear on the front half shaft. It wore a hole in the sensor and it chipped the gear which caused the ABS light to go on. Check for damage to the gear on the half shaft. No more problems.
I had a problem with both the front and rear. The rear I cleaned with Brake Clean and the front actually had a hole in the sensor caused by the new half shaft that was replaced by Sears. When the sensor hit the gear on the front half shaft. It wore a hole in the sensor and it chipped the gear which caused the ABS light to go on. Check for damage to the gear on the half shaft. No more problems.
Fordina
08-13-2006, 05:01 PM
Thank you all so much for your replies. They were really helpful. My husband thoroughly cleaned all the sensors -- the back two were very caked with iron shavings, he said. The sensors themselves did not look damaged though. The ABS light, however, is still on. Did your ABS light go off immediately after cleaning? I have read posts on this forum that have said that dashboard lights don't always go off immediately, but rather sometimes they go off after so many times of starting the vehicle or driving so many miles, etc. Does anyone know anything about this? If the ABS light is supposed to go off immediately once the sensors are cleaned, then there's obviously another problem. We were thinking probably the brake pads are worn and need to be replaced (thus causing all the gunk that was dirtying up the sensors)...?
busboy4
08-13-2006, 05:57 PM
Hi
The ABS system runs a self test on every power up, so something is still triggering the light unfortunately. I also, on the rears anyway, traced the wiring from the ABS sensor upstream to look for possible wiring issues. I found none, but did open the wire connectors (plugs) for the rear sensors and sprayed them with wd-40 just to head off corrosion and/or clean them a bit.
The ABS wheel sensors seem to be the most likely candidates for the light, but there are many, many other issues that the system monitors and can "flag". Ultimately, you may have to get the codes read at a dealer or other shop. That was going to be my next stop had my light remained on as in the mid-west I certainly want the ABS fully functional going into winter.
Best of luck
The ABS system runs a self test on every power up, so something is still triggering the light unfortunately. I also, on the rears anyway, traced the wiring from the ABS sensor upstream to look for possible wiring issues. I found none, but did open the wire connectors (plugs) for the rear sensors and sprayed them with wd-40 just to head off corrosion and/or clean them a bit.
The ABS wheel sensors seem to be the most likely candidates for the light, but there are many, many other issues that the system monitors and can "flag". Ultimately, you may have to get the codes read at a dealer or other shop. That was going to be my next stop had my light remained on as in the mid-west I certainly want the ABS fully functional going into winter.
Best of luck
wiswind
08-13-2006, 05:58 PM
I would also check the brake fluid level in the master cylinder.
There is a fluid level sensor in there that will also light up the ABS light when the fluid level is low.
On the Windstar, the level sensor is very sensitive, and often indicates low fluid level when the fluid level is right at the full line, so adding just a little more may be needed to clear that up.
It only needs to be very slightly over the line in the full direction....so don't over do it.
It is normal for the fluid level to drop slightly as the front disk brakes wear down....also rear disk brakes, if you have them.
The only way to know the condition of the brakes is to remove each front wheel and physically look at them.
For front disk brakes.....it can be a bit of a pain, but look at both the outer (easy to see) and the inner pad linings.....and do that on both sides.
It is possible, if the rotor is slightly warped (very common) to wear down just 1 brake pad lining, and have all the others look almost new.
You will need to have several cans of brake cleaner on hand to spray them down to remove the brake dust so that you can see things.
Before spraying any cleaner.....look for any signs of brake fluid leakage.
If you see any leakage from the front caliper or rear cylinder, best bet is to just replace the caliper assembly or rear brake cylinder.
For the rear wheels, if you have drum brakes, you will need to remove the drum to look at the linings.
You will need to release the parking brake, and if the drums do not wiggle off, you may need to use a small screw driver to back off the self adjust screws, to pull the shoes in enough to clear the small ridge that often is on the inside edge of the drums.
There are several posts in this forum about this, or your repair manual should also show this.
There is a fluid level sensor in there that will also light up the ABS light when the fluid level is low.
On the Windstar, the level sensor is very sensitive, and often indicates low fluid level when the fluid level is right at the full line, so adding just a little more may be needed to clear that up.
It only needs to be very slightly over the line in the full direction....so don't over do it.
It is normal for the fluid level to drop slightly as the front disk brakes wear down....also rear disk brakes, if you have them.
The only way to know the condition of the brakes is to remove each front wheel and physically look at them.
For front disk brakes.....it can be a bit of a pain, but look at both the outer (easy to see) and the inner pad linings.....and do that on both sides.
It is possible, if the rotor is slightly warped (very common) to wear down just 1 brake pad lining, and have all the others look almost new.
You will need to have several cans of brake cleaner on hand to spray them down to remove the brake dust so that you can see things.
Before spraying any cleaner.....look for any signs of brake fluid leakage.
If you see any leakage from the front caliper or rear cylinder, best bet is to just replace the caliper assembly or rear brake cylinder.
For the rear wheels, if you have drum brakes, you will need to remove the drum to look at the linings.
You will need to release the parking brake, and if the drums do not wiggle off, you may need to use a small screw driver to back off the self adjust screws, to pull the shoes in enough to clear the small ridge that often is on the inside edge of the drums.
There are several posts in this forum about this, or your repair manual should also show this.
Fordina
08-19-2006, 06:53 PM
A big thanks to all of you who posted responses. I think we're getting close to figuring this thing out. My husband cleaned all of the ABS sensors (two of which were very caked with iron shavings). He then checked the brake fluid level and it seemed a bit low, so we filled it up -- all in an attempt to get the ABS light off. We really thought the brake fluid was going to be "it." Well, the ABS light stayed on. We were going to take it in for a free brake check at Meineke today, but then the "service engine soon" light joined the ABS light on the panel so we swung by AutoZone and got them to read the code. It pulled up three things: auxillary imputs, manufacturer's control vehicle speed, and idle control. Any of you have a clue as to the mystery of the ABS light staying on for the past month and then the "service engine soon" light joining it today...? We were thinking one of the speed sensors (are they on each wheel or is there just one?) needs to be replaced, but we're not sure based on the codes pulled. My husband did buy a new sensor to install if necessary, but if that's a good guess as to the problem, then can any of you tell him where the speed sensors are located, what problems to look for, and how to change them out (if it's complicated)...? Thanks!! All of you are so very helpful!!
wiswind
08-19-2006, 07:23 PM
The Check Engine light is separate from the ABS light.
Best to get the actual numeric code from them when they read the codes at Autozone.
You will have to ask them for it.
They will be happy to give it to you if you ask, but they don't unless you ask as most people don't have a clue about the numeric codes.
But you do.....you can do a search in this forum on the code (s) and also post a question about it.
The only code that I will take a guess at is the Idle Control....and I would say to clean the Idle Air Control (IAC) valve. You can use WD-40 or SeaFoam Deep Creep (spray version of SeaFoam) to clean it.
I show the IAC in one of the pictures of my engine....and it will be similar on newer windstars as well.
If the IAC is acting up....you should be having issues with the idle (racing or stalling).
There are several speed sensors for vehicle speed (separate from the wheel speed sensors for your ABS).
One feeds the speedometer....so if it is acting up...your speedometer should be acting up...... That is the tough one to get at to replace.....follow the speedometer cable down to around the middle, back of the transmission.
If you have to replace that one.....get the Motorcraft part....as it comes with the little nylon gear....and it is best to replace that when you do the job.
The other speed sensor is on the side of the transmission...driver's side, and from the instructions, is easier to replace.....although....sadly, most posts have to do with the speedometer one.
It is possible that the "manufacture's code" for vehicle speed has to do with the wheel sensors....but you will need to have the codes re-read to get the numeric code, in order for you to know.
It IS worth the effort.....as the codes will tell you which wheel the problem is at.....and what the problem is.
For ABS, it is possible for the actual sensor pickup to go bad.
Do know that, you would need to make resistance checks, and / or go in and have those codes read....as they will tell you which wheel and what the error is.
There are posts about the pickup part being too far from the gear part.
You can compare from wheel to wheel to find out if one is too far away.
The way that the wheel sensor work is......there is a gear.....and a magnetic pickup unit (the part with the wires). As each tooth of the gear passes by the pickup unit, the magnetic field is "disrupted", creating a voltage. So, as you drive down the road.....each wheel sensor is generating a series of voltage pulses.....which the ABS unit monitors to know that the wheels are spinning, if a wheel locks up, the ABS unit releases the braking pressure for that wheel to let the wheel spin....and then re-applies the brake to that wheel.
If the pickup part is too far from the teeth of the gear.....it will have problems sensing the passing of each tooth.
Also, if you have metalic brake linings.....when the space between the gear teeth fills up with brake dust......it can make it look like a solid disk....and the pickup unit will not generate the voltage pulses.
Rust will do the same thing.
You want to make SURE that you use ONLY brake cleaner to clean the sensors, as you WILL get some of the spray onto the brake surfaces
Brake cleaner has no residue......and is completely safe for braking surfaces, including the lining material.
You do not want a spray that leaves any residue as it will cause damage to the brake linings. It will soak into the lining material......so it cannot be washed off.
All the repair instructions that I have read say that any brake lining that has gotten any oil (including brake fluid, or brake lubricant) onto it must be replaced.
Best to get the actual numeric code from them when they read the codes at Autozone.
You will have to ask them for it.
They will be happy to give it to you if you ask, but they don't unless you ask as most people don't have a clue about the numeric codes.
But you do.....you can do a search in this forum on the code (s) and also post a question about it.
The only code that I will take a guess at is the Idle Control....and I would say to clean the Idle Air Control (IAC) valve. You can use WD-40 or SeaFoam Deep Creep (spray version of SeaFoam) to clean it.
I show the IAC in one of the pictures of my engine....and it will be similar on newer windstars as well.
If the IAC is acting up....you should be having issues with the idle (racing or stalling).
There are several speed sensors for vehicle speed (separate from the wheel speed sensors for your ABS).
One feeds the speedometer....so if it is acting up...your speedometer should be acting up...... That is the tough one to get at to replace.....follow the speedometer cable down to around the middle, back of the transmission.
If you have to replace that one.....get the Motorcraft part....as it comes with the little nylon gear....and it is best to replace that when you do the job.
The other speed sensor is on the side of the transmission...driver's side, and from the instructions, is easier to replace.....although....sadly, most posts have to do with the speedometer one.
It is possible that the "manufacture's code" for vehicle speed has to do with the wheel sensors....but you will need to have the codes re-read to get the numeric code, in order for you to know.
It IS worth the effort.....as the codes will tell you which wheel the problem is at.....and what the problem is.
For ABS, it is possible for the actual sensor pickup to go bad.
Do know that, you would need to make resistance checks, and / or go in and have those codes read....as they will tell you which wheel and what the error is.
There are posts about the pickup part being too far from the gear part.
You can compare from wheel to wheel to find out if one is too far away.
The way that the wheel sensor work is......there is a gear.....and a magnetic pickup unit (the part with the wires). As each tooth of the gear passes by the pickup unit, the magnetic field is "disrupted", creating a voltage. So, as you drive down the road.....each wheel sensor is generating a series of voltage pulses.....which the ABS unit monitors to know that the wheels are spinning, if a wheel locks up, the ABS unit releases the braking pressure for that wheel to let the wheel spin....and then re-applies the brake to that wheel.
If the pickup part is too far from the teeth of the gear.....it will have problems sensing the passing of each tooth.
Also, if you have metalic brake linings.....when the space between the gear teeth fills up with brake dust......it can make it look like a solid disk....and the pickup unit will not generate the voltage pulses.
Rust will do the same thing.
You want to make SURE that you use ONLY brake cleaner to clean the sensors, as you WILL get some of the spray onto the brake surfaces
Brake cleaner has no residue......and is completely safe for braking surfaces, including the lining material.
You do not want a spray that leaves any residue as it will cause damage to the brake linings. It will soak into the lining material......so it cannot be washed off.
All the repair instructions that I have read say that any brake lining that has gotten any oil (including brake fluid, or brake lubricant) onto it must be replaced.
12Ounce
08-19-2006, 07:39 PM
Here's a good read on the subject from autozone.com:
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http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/1d/3e/ed/0900823d801d3eed.jsp
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http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/1d/3e/ed/0900823d801d3eed.jsp
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