1996 Achieva Starts for a second than it shuts off

I have a problem with my achieva 96 with the 3.1 engine. I had this problem for quite some while. Before it used to appear just periodically once on a while the engine starts for a second and than just shuts off. After a 10min brake all sudden it starts to work fine. However yesterday it did the same thing to me, but never started back on, even though I let it stay for a while and than attempted again. I would really appreciate if anyone could give me an advice with one since is my only transportation I reallly need to get it fixed. I viewed the forum and I found some information for the passlock #1 security system and I was wondering if that could be the problem.
If the passlock 1 system is the cause if I cut these 3 wires would that solve the problem, if I do it quickly while the car runs for a couple seconds. I would really appreciate if someone shares his experience with.

Thank you.

Sincerely,
Kiril

I just got off the phone with the dealership, and according to them is the cluster with the rough estimate of $500 replacement, which is kinda odd to me. I tried to let the key in on position for a 10 min and than tried to start it again and it didn't work, after that I took the battery off for 20 min+ and still nothing. The last thing I attempt is took all the panels around the steering wheel and I let the car run for a second while running quickly removed these 3 wires (yellow, white, and black) that are hooked up to the ignition swith...still nothing. My last hope is to try replacing that ignition switch along with the lgnition lock cylinder. What do you guys thing? I would really appreciate any suggestions, advices, etc. I am in a pickle and at the mid time my other car broke (fuel pump problem) and I am with transportation.

Any posting are greatlly appreciated.

Thanks

Instrument Cluster? Thats interesting. Did the dealer explain what part in the cluster could cause the problem you are having?

Other than suspecting the Passlock, have you checked other things like ignition and fuel?

I just got off the phone with the dealership, and according to them is the cluster with the rough estimate of $500 replacement, which is kinda odd to me. I tried to let the key in on position for a 10 min and than tried to start it again and it didn't work, after that I took the battery off for 20 min+ and still nothing. The last thing I attempt is took all the panels around the steering wheel and I let the car run for a second while running quickly removed these 3 wires (yellow, white, and black) that are hooked up to the ignition swith...still nothing. My last hope is to try replacing that ignition switch along with the lgnition lock cylinder. What do you guys thing? I would really appreciate any suggestions, advices, etc. I am in a pickle and at the mid time my other car broke (fuel pump problem) and I am with transportation.

Any posting are greatlly appreciated.

Thanks


No way anyone can think about it without proper testing.
Usually scanner time.
Is the dealer going to fix it or have they checked it out.
Remember proper testing and repair.
I would not try that old wire cut deal.
Let us know more about the dealer deal on it?
Are they sure of a fix on it?
MT

I have a problem like that only, the injector was clogged.

I was with the dealership on the phone and they told me that there are several recalls on this passlock system, but than they called me back and came up with the idea that the problem is the cluster. They didn't look at the car just told me over the phone is the cluster according to them and it will cost me about $500 which I think is ridiculous. It's defiantly not from the fuel system, because seems that the engine get the fuel, but then something cuts it and the car stalls. Another interesting fact is that if I start the car and than just hold the key all the way forward right before the starter starts scratching the car runs for about 4-5 seconds. This makes me think that could something related with the ignition switch. (I found two old ignition switches from the previous owner in the clove box) which makes me think that that is one of the possibilities.

I am still opened to any advices suggestions ideas, until I found a solution of the problem. I don't feel like spending $500 for a cluster since I can find it for 100 from a junk yard.

Thanks to everyone who replied to me so far.

Have you tested fuel pressure at the fuel injector rail? If it is a Passlock problem, it should disable the fuel pump circuits. You should be able to hookup a fuel pressure tester at the Schrader valve on the FI rail. Test pressure with ignition on but not start and see what the pressure looks like during fuel pump prime. Then start engine and monitor gauge and see what it does when it stalls or dies out.

The ignition switch is a possibility.

As soon as I get to the car today I'll try to perfom that test with the injectors pressure and I'll post right away whether I get pressure or not, even though I am very positive that is not from the fuel system, but wouldn't hurt trying.

Thank you.

Just a quick question. What does the cluster have to do with starting the engine? :shakehead That's kind of odd to me. :) Or just the dealer wants to take for a ride. Thanks to everyone participating in my post.

Just a quick question. What does the cluster have to do with starting the engine? :shakehead That's kind of odd to me. :) Or just the dealer wants to take for a ride. Thanks to everyone participating in my post.

Really hard to say. Maybe they know something we don't :dunno:

But I agree it is hard to comprehend how the IP cluster would cause your problem. I would ask the dealer how they determined it may be the problem. If they, in fact, troubleshot the problem maybe they determined something in the cluster was causing a short maybe affecting the Ignition Main 1 & 2 circuits, etc. Tell them you would like proof before shelling out the big bucks.

How does the cluster look to you. Does the background illumination work? Are you getting all gauges and idiot lights? Anything else visibly abnormal?

The cluster seems to be working just fine, besides that the security and the traction control light are on. But overall everything acts normally. :banghead:

the security module controller is inside the cluster

we are currently dealing with the exact same starting issue on a 98 achieva 3.1

sent the ipc to southern electronics to let them work on it, after i replaced the ign key lock switch because the local dealer said that it was what was at fault

but to no avail

they were wrong

the dealers dont know crap about this passlock and how to fix them, found this out first hand, the car has 80k miles on it and real sharp car runs great if it will start we only gave 105 bucks for it because the owner was sick of it

so we can put a grand it it and still be way ahead

so far we have about 250 in it altogether, and soon to have 220 more in it

and will keep spending til its fixed







good luck

the security module controller is inside the cluster

we are currently dealing with the exact same starting issue on a 98 achieva 3.1

sent the ipc to southern electronics to let them work on it, after i replaced the ign key lock switch because the local dealer said that it was what was at fault

but to no avail

they were wrong

the dealers dont know crap about this passlock and how to fix them, found this out first hand, the car has 80k miles on it and real sharp car runs great if it will start we only gave 105 bucks for it because the owner was sick of it

so we can put a grand it it and still be way ahead

so far we have about 250 in it altogether, and soon to have 220 more in it

and will keep spending til its fixed







good luck


http://members.troublecodes.net/crunch/96achievapasloc.pdf

Yes it does go threw the instrument cluster.
But there is a lot more to it.
The anti theft system is not that hard to test.
Any good dealer should be able to test it and get right to the problem.
A good scanner will give you codes that will point you to the problem on it.
What was the code no or test you got or done that pointed to the cluster?
Or you just taking a shot at it and hope that will fix it?:grinyes: :grinno: :lol:
Here is some tips on finding a good dealer.
Tip on going to the dealer
Ask that only a factory certified gasoline engine performance and anti theft system specialist work on your car.
Not all dealerships are concerned with how repairs are dispatched, and not all dealership techs bother to take advantage of the training offered by factory (the vast majority of which is paid training). If the dealer is uncooperative, ask for your money back and call around for a dealer that will accommodate you.

To bad the first poster did not post back how they came out.
This is kind of a old post but maybe it will wake them up.:grinno:
Let us know how you get along.

yeah its a kinda old post but maybe it will help someone somehow, and technically its in the wrong board lol

we are going with the IPC as the last resort because we already replaced the ign lock cylinder and the cluster was all screwy with fluttering lights and guages and everything and we also eliminated the ABS by unplugging the module like southern told us to


the dealer is the only one around here we live out in cornfield no where land of farmers and retired ppl and cows and nothing much else

so..

it was already taken to the dealer and diagnosed for this issue and thats when they said it was the lock cylinder

but nope i changed it and it still dies at startup

so..

dealer is no good, they dont know a spark plug from a wheel stud it seems and they have been here since the 1950s and have about 12 tech guys, or more




thanks..

yeah its a kinda old post but maybe it will help someone somehow

we are going with the IPC as the last resort because we already replaced the ign lock cylinder and the cluster was all screwy with fluttering lights and guages and everything and we also eliminated the ABS by unplugging the module like southern told us to


the dealer is the only one around here we live out in cornfield no where land of farmers and retired ppl and cows and nothing much else

so..

it was already taken to the dealer and diagnosed for this issue and thats when they said it was the lock cylinder

but nope i changed it and it still dies at startup

so..

dealer is no good, they dont know a spark plug from a wheel stud it seems and they have been here since the 1950s and have about 12 tech guys, or more




thanks..

To bad you do not have a good dealer.
You may need to check around for a good general repair shop that is up to date on testing the anti theft system.
Check around Ask around
Word of mouth.
Family friends coworkers neighbors business people and delivery people.
Mailmen and parcel delivery people get around and notice a lot of stuff.
Even a good parts house knows what shops are good and not good.
Chamber of commerce and better business bureau and city hall.
If you find a good referral to a repair shop go look them over and talk to them.
Look for a clean looking busy place with nice people running it.
Ask a few questions and ask about their qualifications and training.
Not all places have trained tech/mechanics.
If they do not find a place that does.
Even all dealers do not have all trained techs/mechanics.


A good dealer or good repair shop with a good scanner should be able to pinpoint the problem.
A bad cluster will set a certain code just like a bad engine sensor.
Post back and let us know how it goes.
Good luck.
MT

just got off the phone with southern and they are done repairing the IPC and they told me that the reason the car was starting and dying immediatley is due to bad back board of the IPC

220 bucks with shipping

done

is on the way back to here, they are also sending me reset/relearn instructions



thi sis after reaplcing the ign lock cylinder that the dealer said was the cause and really wasnt

will update when the IPC gets here

Hey,
My 95 Achieva with same motor was doin the same. Try wiggling the wire harness that goes from the computer(left side firewall) down around front of engine.Right below the throttle cable bracket(it continues into Neutral
safety switch etc) May be a bad wire...mine was.

Welcome to AF bluenoser67.

Please do not post in out dated threads.

Thanks for the tips!
If you need assistance please post your own thread.



this is closed!