2000 Blazer LT Front Door Speaker Size?

I'm getting ready to replace the two front door speakers and I was hoping to get some help determining size/depth measurements to buy them before removing the panels. I went to the Crutchfield site and it lists 5 1/4 and 6 1/2-6 3/4 speakers for the fronts? Are one of the sizes the dash speakers listed as Fronts maybe?

Anyone know for sure the size of the front door speakers in my 2000 4DR LT and or know of any depth issues? Thanks for any help ....

Doors front and rear (4dr) are 6 1/2" and buy the GM adapters for them to connect without splicing. Dash I don't know.

Thanks for your help !!

Door panel has 2 small bolts under the arm rest and then 1 screw in the open handle plastic cup, then pull to remove panel, lift up to get lip off window opening. The control plate pops off the panel and fits thru the opening - need the door panel off to easily install new speakers. On install make sure the front plastic clips are clipped in so door switch does not break (see the quarter sized little plastic plate on panel to contact switch). If you have a 4 door you hear the rears more than the fronts.

a lot of the 6 3/4 speakers just cost more I guess 'cause the aren't as mass produced. the problem that you will run into on the dash speakers is the hole is so shallow there is a brace or ductwork below them. that's what a tech from crutchfield told me. the depth on the doors shouldn't be an issue they are made for 6 3/4 if you order from crutchfield, they will give you any adapters that you need

As for your speakers in the dash. They are a 4x6 opening but only a select few fit in them because of the mounting depth. Be careful you dont buy something you cant use.

Just replaced the dash and rear door speakers, BE CAREFUL...had a problem fitting the 6.5 inch speakers because the magnets were too thick.

As for your speakers in the dash. They are a 4x6 opening but only a select few fit in them because of the mounting depth. Be careful you dont buy something you cant use.
i bought pioneer 4x6's for like 50 bucks and they fit perfictly.

4" speakers fit nicely in the dash with scosche 4x6" adapters

i just aquired 4 infinity 5-1/4 inch speakers (they seem deep though), i have a 95 4 door blazer lt, it came with a single cd player. crotchfeel says the speaker sizes are 4x6, 6.5 and 6.75. a lot of people on this board seem to have 6.5s in both the front doors and the back doors of their 95's. are you guys useing adapter plates for the rear ones? also, when i took one of the dash grills off to check out what was under there (i didnt even know they were there for years) i found an adapter plate with a tweeter in it.

my question is, do they sell 5.25 to 6.5 and 5.25 to 6.75 adapters at my local wal mart or circut city/best buy? crutchfield wanted 14 to 25 bucks a pair! thats the price of a no-name-but-better-than-stock speakers! am i going to need wire adapters for these speakers cause i have a gm? do 5.25 to 6.75 adaptors even exist? could i just go find a peice of 1/8'' sheet metal and make my own adapters?

also the speakers i got have 4 wire harneses each, whats with that? do i need a crossover for them? they have tweeters in the middle.

I disconneted my dash speakers and I plan on dumping tweaters in. I don't find a use for them

I installed my rear speakers today, had to "recycle" a piece of 18 gauge sheet metal from my local abandoned factory. I made adapter plates for them and they fit great, I found the crossovers for the speakers.

Does any one know if my blazer has a crossover somewhere between the deck and the tweeters? Only 4 sets of wire came out of the stock unit (I have a Panasonic mp3/cd player now, 50w x 4 rms) so they obviously split somewhere. No I don’t have a Chilton’s, I wouldn’t be on this board if i could afford rich guy stuff like "manuals" and "speaker adapters".

blazerboy, I highly recommend putting tweeters in the dash, I was surprised at how crappy the stock speakers were when i pulled them out because the stock system sounded pretty nice. it just wasn’t loud enough.

I will put them in, I have Polk Audio all the way around now

Yeah i've never found an answer about the crossover...it must be there somewhere, but where?

I abandoned my rear speakers and ran four new lines to the dash and front doors--Infinity 6.5" in the doors and 4x6 plates in the dash. I had to cut off one of the mounts on the dash cover to account for the extra thickness of the plate but it all fits nice and snug now. The finishing touch is to get a deck with a crossover (what Pioneer calles "network mode") so you can send your highs to the plates in the dash and the mids to the doors.

Door panel has 2 small bolts under the arm rest and then 1 screw in the open handle plastic cup, then pull to remove panel, lift up to get lip off window opening. The control plate pops off the panel and fits thru the opening - need the door panel off to easily install new speakers. On install make sure the front plastic clips are clipped in so door switch does not break (see the quarter sized little plastic plate on panel to contact switch). If you have a 4 door you hear the rears more than the fronts.

I have to replace the outside mirror on my '95 Blazer and can't figure out how to remove door panel. The screw in the open handle cup is obvious but I don't see the " 2 small bolts under the arm rest" Is this just on newer models? Thanks !

I have to replace the outside mirror on my '95 Blazer and can't figure out how to remove door panel. The screw in the open handle cup is obvious but I don't see the " 2 small bolts under the arm rest" Is this just on newer models? Thanks !
First off try THE SEARCH FUNCTION (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/search.php?f=119)

Then remove the oval shaped cap with a small flat head screw driver.

Reguarding the op - I put JL XR4's in with custom sheet metal plates. Only took a little time with a jig saw and some patients. As far as the doors, I found that most good aftermarket speakers were too deep anyways. So in the fronts I used JL VR5.25cs with 1/2 mdf adapter rings. In the rear doors I have JLXR6.5cs with the same type of adapter plate made from some 1/2" mdf.

I wouldnt even mess around with trying to find direct replacement speakers. Just use a little ingenuity and put in what you want.

Im running a total of 15 speakers @ 1000 watts. All JL audio:evillol:

I have to replace the outside mirror on my '95 Blazer and can't figure out how to remove door panel. The screw in the open handle cup is obvious but I don't see the " 2 small bolts under the arm rest" Is this just on newer models? Thanks !
Did you find the two screws?

Just a note about the two bolts "under the armrest" that some folks have been explaining above. Our 2000 Blazer 4D 4WD LS has the rear door panel bolts in a different spot. Looking down at armrest, look inside the the grab handle. You'll see a ~3" long x 1/2"wide cover. Use a small flathead screwdriver to carefully pry up the cover from the rear end. Once the cover pops off, you'll see two 7mm hex head bolts. Remove these. Then follow everyone else's instructions to carefully pry off the door around the edges.

Also note, I had to remove the two trim pieces on the top half of the door before the lower panel could slide up enough to come off. The front trip piece is attached by two small phillips screws that are easily visible. The rear trim piece has the same attachments as the lower door panel. Carefully pry off from the bottom. Once the lower one pops out, you can just swing the trim piece up and out of the way.

The power window button is tricky. Once you get the trim panel off, spin it upside down so that the switch is facing downward. Use a normal sized flathead screwdriver to the pinch (wedge) the silver clasps towards the switch. The switch will pop loose and one of the silver clasps will go flying. Be careful that you don't lose it. Try to keep the other clasp in place so that you can see which direction they go.

My eventual goal was to replace the speakers. There's a GM spaker connector that is tough to disconnect. My best advice after I finally unhooked it is that you have to try and squeeze all four sides at the same time. Good luck.

The speaker had four 5/64 (I think) stardrive screws that had to be removed. Lastly, I have no idea what GM was thinking, but the hardest part is sliding the connector under the housing that holds the speaker in place. The housing is attached to the door by what looks to be four rivets. Dumb design. You'll know what I mean when you see it. Yes, I could have cut the wires, but I was hoping to easily re-use the connector on the new speakers. Nonetheless, I finally used a larger flathead screwdriver to pry the housing away from the door. Eventually the top left rivet-like attachment popped out and the connector slid under the housing easily. Am I going to be able to pop the rivet back in? Will find out later. If not, looks like I can drill out the rivet and use a sheet metal screw.

Hope this helps.