85 CRX HF - Electrical Issues
canucksca
05-26-2006, 11:50 PM
I just purchased an all stock '85 CRX HF with 210,000 miles on it. The car seems to be in very good condition with the exception of some nagging electrical issues.
The Hazard lights, the instrument panel lights and the Washer motor do not seem to work. Does anyone know of some master switch or relay that could need replacing? :banghead: The fuses seem fine.
The headlights, turn signals, brake lights, marker lights and dome light all work. I had an '85 Civic DX with similar problems. Does anyone have any ideas? Thank you in advance for your assistance! :)
The Hazard lights, the instrument panel lights and the Washer motor do not seem to work. Does anyone know of some master switch or relay that could need replacing? :banghead: The fuses seem fine.
The headlights, turn signals, brake lights, marker lights and dome light all work. I had an '85 Civic DX with similar problems. Does anyone have any ideas? Thank you in advance for your assistance! :)
pimpmcdaddies
05-27-2006, 09:16 AM
I'd check the bulbs in the instrument panel,sounds like separate problems to me.Check for power going to the wipers when switched on.If the indicators work it could be a dodgy switch...
canucksca
05-27-2006, 04:43 PM
Thanks for the advice. I'll check the instrument panel bulbs and whatever switches/relays might be attached to the hazards and the washer pump.
The wipers work fine, just the washer pump won't pump fluid (yes, there is fluid in the reservoir). In the meantime, I rigged up some cheapie blue LED's running off the cig. lighter so I can at least see my panel at night until I figure out what is going on.
I want this thing to run forever! Getting new rubber in next week or two (Yokohama Avids 4x 175/70/13). I know I'll have many more questions!
The wipers work fine, just the washer pump won't pump fluid (yes, there is fluid in the reservoir). In the meantime, I rigged up some cheapie blue LED's running off the cig. lighter so I can at least see my panel at night until I figure out what is going on.
I want this thing to run forever! Getting new rubber in next week or two (Yokohama Avids 4x 175/70/13). I know I'll have many more questions!
pimpmcdaddies
05-28-2006, 12:21 AM
have a listen near the washer fluid filler bottle while someone operates the washer switch and see if you hear it pumping.when cars sit around the blue washer fluid sometimes goes sludgy blocking the motor up.The easy way to clean is stick an airline down the rubber tube at the bonnet end of the system.Jets in bonnet block to with polish so blast them too.If its the motor you can swap pipes from rear washer if it works to get you out of trouble...
lxndr
05-28-2006, 02:32 AM
There's a potentiometer (dimmer knob) on the left side of the rear defrost switch. You may want to check the connection behind this switch.
I don't remember if the HF model has a hazard fuse directly on the positive battery terminal or not, I would assume it does since the hazard lights are supposed to be wired directly to the battery. Anyway, this could be your problem. If not, then it's the conatcts in the hazard switch itself.
The solution for the washer motor could be as described earlier. I've also used a pin to remove wax build-up from the jet itself.
I don't remember if the HF model has a hazard fuse directly on the positive battery terminal or not, I would assume it does since the hazard lights are supposed to be wired directly to the battery. Anyway, this could be your problem. If not, then it's the conatcts in the hazard switch itself.
The solution for the washer motor could be as described earlier. I've also used a pin to remove wax build-up from the jet itself.
canucksca
05-28-2006, 05:41 PM
:) Thank you both for the advice on the washer pump. It turned out it was clogged and the pin was exactly what was needed. All four jets on it are working now. Thanks again!
I used electrical epoxy on the defroster grid, I'll test that tomorrow. I plan on checking the connection behind the potentiometer (dimmer switch knob) soon. From what I understand, the hazards may also have some kind of flasher relay that may need to be replaced if the fuse is okay.
It also needs a new oil pan as the drain plug is not stock (giant plug) and the hole has been re-tapped. The oil was just changed, so it isn't immediate at least. I think I can find a pan for about $90 online and then whatever the gasket kit and drain plug cost. Of course the more I inspect, the more I want to replace... $$$...:)
I used electrical epoxy on the defroster grid, I'll test that tomorrow. I plan on checking the connection behind the potentiometer (dimmer switch knob) soon. From what I understand, the hazards may also have some kind of flasher relay that may need to be replaced if the fuse is okay.
It also needs a new oil pan as the drain plug is not stock (giant plug) and the hole has been re-tapped. The oil was just changed, so it isn't immediate at least. I think I can find a pan for about $90 online and then whatever the gasket kit and drain plug cost. Of course the more I inspect, the more I want to replace... $$$...:)
lxndr
05-28-2006, 06:25 PM
:) I think I can find a pan for about $90 online and then whatever the gasket kit and drain plug cost.
$90 is way too much! You can probably find a used oil pan for about $10-$15 at a junk yard. If not, ask around at www.redpepperracing.com. Although if the hole is tapped properly, I don't think you need to worry about it.
$90 is way too much! You can probably find a used oil pan for about $10-$15 at a junk yard. If not, ask around at www.redpepperracing.com. Although if the hole is tapped properly, I don't think you need to worry about it.
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