1988 Toyota Camry Starting Problems....

1988 Toyota Camry 188K miles
New altenator, spark plugs, and good battery.

Just recently i hadnt driven my car for about a week and didnt start it within those 7 days. I started it and it started fine then it died slowly a few seconds after it started. I tried it again and the same problem. I replaced the spark plugs and it started and ran good then a few minutes later it died. Any suggestions what the problem may be.
It starts good but seconds later it "slowly" dies.

The first thing to consider is your idle air control valve. Try cleaning it with some throttle body cleaner or O2 safe carb cleaner. Disconnect the big tube from the throttle body. The square or diamond shaped port in the bottom of the throttle body is the port to the idle air control valve. Spray it liberally with the cleaner (you might as well clean the entire throttle body while you are at it) and then reconnect the big tube. Now try to start it. It will be a bit difficult to start from all the cleaner in the intake plenum, but eventually it will start. You may have to keep your foot on the gas pedal a bit to finally get it started and to keep it running at first. Take it for a ride for 10 or 15 minutes to run all the cleaner through the system and to recharge the battery. The true test will be the next cold restart.

Mike

I had the same problem and it is definitely the Idle air control valve. There is a thread somewhere in here that will teach you to do it your self. Took me 1 hour with another person's help. Worked like a charm

Thanks for all the help.
I will post new updates when I have a chance to work on my car again.

My Camry is now working Perfectly.
I had tried to clean out the air valve, but still nothing. And I noticed that my gas gauge showed that I had a little over a quater tank, but the car is old so that gauge may not be working right, and so I put more gas in my car and it started right up.
SO THE PROBLEM WAS............I HAD NO GAS!!!!!!

Thanks for all the help.

I AM AN IDIOT

My problem is a bit more complicated.....
The car was running perfectly. One day, it wouldn't start. I laid on the key without releasing, turning over the engine for at least 3 minutes without letting up. It started fine. The next day, the same thing happened, but this time it wouldn't start. I poured injector cleaner and dry gas in the tank. Then, after charging the battery I laid on the key for about 3 minutes again. It finally started and ran rough for a while, then began running smoothly.
It ran fine for about 1 week. Then the other day, it started just fine and I drove it about 3 miles down the road, and it just stopped again. It turns over fine, but now, it won't start at all.
ANY SUGGESTIONS ?
Thanks !!!!!!:banghead:

First of all stop turning the starter for 3 minutes at a time. You are overheating it and shortening it's life. Crank the engine for 15-20 seconds max and then let it cool for about 30 seconds to 1 minute before trying again.

When you have a crank and no start condition you have to get back to basics. Is the car getting fuel and spark and is the spark happening at the right time? Get a manual and look up the troubleshooting section entitled "Cranks but wont start" or something to that effect. I believe there is a troubleshooting section posted at the top of this forum so start by doing a search for "Troubleshooting". Then report the symptoms you are finding and someone will be able to help you.

Mike

From the FAG's:

Re: Camry FAQs and Information

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Thanks to Toysrme for the following discussion:

WON'T RUN GUIDE

Cranking = turning over. Because this is the won't RUN guide, we assume the car cranks fine. Even so, the battery wires should be taken off and cleaned, even if they look OK.

When the car cranks fine, but won't run, here's what you need to know!
To run, an engine needs spark, fuel, compression, and they all have to happen at the right time! It's really that simple...

****************************************

Let's start at the beginning.

If you have any idling problem, you start with cleaning the Idle Air Control AKA Idle Speed Control (IAC, ISC - same thing) valve is clogged with carbon from the EGR system. If it's not clogged now, it will be in the future, and you just staved it off. It's not a question of if yours will clog. It's simply a question of when it clogs.

Remove the valve, and clean it by hand. 3s-fe's, 5s-fe's, and 1mz-fe's, it's located on the underside of the throttle body, and is held on by four phillips screws. On 2vz-fe, and 3vz-fe's, it's on the firewall side of the throttle body, held on by two 12mm bolts.

3s-fe, 5s-fe, 1mz-fe:


2vz-fe 3vz-fe:


Next, check for vacuum leaks. Unplugged vacuum hoses, and especially cracks on the rubber hose that runs from the throttle body, to the air box.

Yes... 75% of idle problems are that easy. If it's not the Idle valve, clogged with carbon, it's probably a vacuum leak.

Another possible fix for IAC-Related Idling Problems:

Thanks to Daniel M. Dreyfus for the following discussion.

Here's my take on this - also 1994 4 cylinder Camry. Your car feels like it is running on three cylinders at cold start up because the IAC (idle air control valve) is sticking and not enough fuel gets into the cylinders for smooth cold start up idle speed.

If you remove the hose clamp at the throttle body opening and pull aside the large black air intake hose - at the bottom of the throttle body is a small rectangular hole - the air inlet for the IAC valve.
The best cure I've found for a sticking valve is TriFlow. It is a lubricant with teflon sold at bicycle and hardward stores. Just spray a small amount into the IAC air intake with the engine cold and stumbling at idle.

After I removed the throttle body, replaced the IAC valve with new, and performed all the adjustments and calibrations for the TB according to the factory service manual, this annoying sympton of cold start stumble returned but the TriFlow seems to have cured it.

My best guess is that the cylinder disk that covers and reveals the air port inside the IAC valve has no lubrication and the bimetallic thermostatic coil on the other end of the shaft running through the valve sometimes doesn't develop enough pressure to fully open the valve when cold.

****************************************

Check for spark. Pull a single spark plug out, grounding it well to the frame. Turning the engine over, you should have a strong white spark. Old plugs, or weak spark will be a blue color. That does not directly spell a problem. As long as it is a strong spark, with some white in the blue color, the plug is fine.

If you have a 3s-fe, 2vz-fe, or 3vz-fe you have a distributor! Mark the distributor cap so you know it's orientation with paint, or a sharpie. They typically are held on by three screws, or three 10mm bolts. Check the distributor cap for small cracks - they *WILL* let moisture in. Check all of the contact points for corrosion. Check the rotor for corrosion. If any corrosion is present, you can take a small bit of emory paper (or very fine sand paper) and knock it off. If there is any suspect in the rotor, and cap, or you had to work them to get the car running - replace them. They're not $15 parts, and will go bad at some point.

While the cap is off, note the orientation of the rotor and crank the engine. If the rotor moves, your timing belt is in-tact.

5s-fe's use a distributorless ignition.
1mz-fe's use coil on wire.

Ignition timing is universally 10*btdc in all modern, wide-scale Toyota production engines. It is only adjustable on distributor equipped vehicles. If ignition timing is off for no reason on a distributor equipped engine, this can be indicative of a slipped timing belt.

Spark plug wires are NOT a typical wear item. If the car is kept inside, they regularly last 250,000 miles + before deteriorating. Simply said, if they are not grounding out, and the contacts are not damaged, they do NOT need to be replaced. Replacement wires ARE inferior... Spark plugs wires are also expensive! Ranging $90-$110usd for the v6 OEM replacement wires. Other than OEM wires, only use quality replacement wires, like Vitek, or extremely expensive ($250usd) Magnecor wires. No Auto store replacement wires!

Spark plugs are important. DO NOT use split electrode type plugs, or American brands in general. The resistance is far different that what the Nippon-Denso ignition system is designed to work on. Simply put... You will have a problem with putting Bosch plugs in most Toyota's. Normally in a short amount of time. Only use Denso, or NGK plugs.

NGK makes good generic plugs, that are very cheap (Typically on "permanent sale" in most areas for around $1-$2usd a plug). They are the OEM replacement plugs at most dealers (Surprisingly not Denso), they are not platinum, and last much longer than the 60,000 mile replacement interval. Making platinum plugs a complete waste of money.

Iridium plugs are nice, with 80,000 up to 120,000 mile life spans! Unfortunately, you would never want them in a Toyota factory engine that long. Carbon build-up will make you clean spark plugs around 60,000 miles. Which makes you ask the question... Why pay $11-$15usd a plug, for something you have to take out and clean, when you can pay $1-$2 a plug, and simply replace it.

If you have no spark at all. Check the 15amp EFI fuse (fuse box nearest battery). Check the 7.5 amp ignition fuse (same box). If still no ignition, Bridge E1 & TE1 in the Diagnostic's port (3s-fe, 2vz-fe, and 3vz-fe) and make sure the Check engine light is flashing a stead on & off. If it is the computer is fine. The ignitor, coil/coil packs, and distributor can all be tested with a multi-meter, but go beyond this post. Ask for specific directions.

****************************************

Check for fuel getting to the injectors / fuel rail! Fuel pressure at idle is normally only 30-35psig. If you are using a pressure gauge don't be shocked if you don't get at least 40psig.

Testing for fuel is laughably easy. Start by taking the gas cap off, and putting it back on. That will de-pressurize the fuel system.

If you have a cold-start injector (2vz-fe, 3vz-fe) Slowly unbolt the 12mm banjo bolt. If fuel starts draining out, you have no fuel problem.
Otherwise, pull the rubber fuel hose off the fuel rail. Gas will pour out. If gas pours out, don't test the fuel pump, don't change the fuel filter, don't check the injectors. Check for compression, or re-check ignition.

Forget the fuel filter... Like plug wires, they are NOT typical wear items in modern Japanese designed cars. They may claim 15,000-30,000 mile lives, you may hear it has a 15,000-30,000 mile. Barring the owner is a complete moron, and you pours dirt and debris in your gas. The simply fact is they all actually *need* to be replaced on a 100,000-150,000 mile cycle.

Fuel pumps are easy to check. When you supply them voltage, they turn on.

For Air-flow Meter cars (3s-fe, 2vz-fe, 3vz-fe) The fuel pump will NOT turn on when you turn the ignition key is on. (except after an ECU reset) There is a switch in the air-flow meter that trips when the vane flap is sucked open (engine cranking). If you take your airbox apart and turn the iganition to ON, you can reach in and push the vane-flap open. Not only can you hear the fuel pump turn on. But you can hear, and feel the fuel injectors working.

5s-fe, and 1mz-fe's must apply battery voltage directly to the pump to check them.

****************************************

Next check compression with a compression tester. On All modern, wide-scale Toyota production engines. Minimum compression is 142psig, maximum compression is 180psig. You want even compression across all cylinders.

If there is compression problems across all cylinders, check the timing belt, and cam orientation. The belt may have slipped, or snapped. (or the cams installed incorrectly after a re-build) Otherwise, there could be a blown head gasket (Common on Toyota v6's from the late 80's through the late 90's), or bad rings.

If compression tests OK, re-check ignition components, and check all the more in-depth parts skipped, or not tested.

CAR WON'T START - NO SPARK

Q: My 4 cyl 94 Camry died and won't start. I unhooked the plug wires and no spark when cranking. Any ideas on how to troubleshoot my ignition?

A: http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbul...d.php?t=217128
__________________
Forum Guidelines:http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/guidelines.html

"What we got here is a failure to communicate."

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Last edited by Brian R. : 09-04-2005 at 02:22 PM.

My problem is a bit more complicated.....
The car was running perfectly. One day, it wouldn't start. I laid on the key without releasing, turning over the engine for at least 3 minutes without letting up. It started fine. The next day, the same thing happened, but this time it wouldn't start. I poured injector cleaner and dry gas in the tank. Then, after charging the battery I laid on the key for about 3 minutes again. It finally started and ran rough for a while, then began running smoothly.
It ran fine for about 1 week. Then the other day, it started just fine and I drove it about 3 miles down the road, and it just stopped again. It turns over fine, but now, it won't start at all.
ANY SUGGESTIONS ?
Thanks !!!!!!:banghead:

OK, sorry...let me fill in the gaps. My neighbor is a certified mechanic, although he doesn't do foreign cars. He stopped on his way home from work the first time it wouldn't start and checked the car. It was firing properly. It was getting fuel. He also checked all electrical fuses/relays, etc. He came to the belief that the car has a short or bad ground somewhere (possibly the in-tank fuel pump or ignition switch, according to him).
It's after that that I added the dry gas and the injector cleaner, laid on the ignition and the car started and ran PERFECTLY for a week. That tells me the compression is good. The exhaust is normal, no white or black.
Once the car is started, it runs and "takes off" like a charm. The problem is it will crank just fine, but it will not start. Battery is good, starter is good, getting fuel, getting spark, compression is great. It has to be something simple.
Any suggestions where to start?
THANKS

Is it still getting fuel and spark now that it is not starting? Is the spark a bright blue color? You don't say what year your car is, but if it is a generation 2 (1987-1991), these cars had a lot of problems with the coil inside the distributor. They would develope hairline cracks and short themselves out on any metal inside the distributor. This problem is usually worse in wet/damp conditions. Was it wet or damp when you first had the problem? You could try checking the coil with a DVM and the specs from any manual.

Mike

sounds like you need to replace the ignition coil, as some others have suggested. I had similar problems for years, kept getting tuneups, examining the distributor, etc. Then I spent $35 and an afternoon replacing the ignition coil. Old one had a visible crack in it, turned out. Problem disappeared completely.