BALL JOINT REPLACEMENT HOW TO (w/ pix)

Before you start reading...take note that I spent a day and a half trying to remove the bottom balljoint on just one side WITHOUT removing the whole hub assembly. Instead of saving time, I wasted it and ended up removing the whole assembly anyway. Had I done that from the beginning, I probably would have finished in HALF the time.

ALSO! I got my balljoints from AUTOZONE because they were the cheapest and I was trying to save cash. Dealer wanted $1800 for the job, and independant shop wanted $700.
I first got $20/ea BallJoints from them made by ValuCraft, to get it all apart and find out that the top balljoints were too big for their port in the control arm. I went back and got the $40/ea BallJoints made by Duralast. These were smaller, but I still needed to slightly file the edges of the hole to fit it.
Im sure the expensive ones from the Dealer would have been an exact fit...although I can't see paying near $100 per balljoint. MORAL OF THE STORY - Stay away from "ValuCraft", and you get what you pay for.

In the process, I forgot to take the pix, so forgive me...I took them as I reinstalled and tried to put them in the correct order. It fits pretty well. Any questions email me.


http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b40/JoshB_/balljoint/1.jpg
Break the torque on the hub assembly BEFORE you jack the car up.
(Use a breaker bar for this...Torque Wrench for illustration purpose only.)

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b40/JoshB_/balljoint/2.jpg
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b40/JoshB_/balljoint/3.jpg
Once you've removed the tire, remove the top and bottom 18mm bolts from the brake caliper.

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b40/JoshB_/balljoint/4.jpg
Remove the brake caliper.

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b40/JoshB_/balljoint/6.jpg
Using a tie-wrap, wire, or string, support the brake caliper out of your way to keep any stress from the brake line.

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b40/JoshB_/balljoint/5.jpg
Remove the brake pads.

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b40/JoshB_/balljoint/7.jpg
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b40/JoshB_/balljoint/8.jpg
Remove top and bottom 18mm bolts from brake pad housing (for lack of correct term)

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b40/JoshB_/balljoint/9.jpg
Remove the brake pad housing.

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b40/JoshB_/balljoint/10b.jpg
Using a bar to brace the hub from turning, back the hub nut off the rest of the way. Careful not to damage hub threads in the process.

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b40/JoshB_/balljoint/11.jpg
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b40/JoshB_/balljoint/12.jpg
Remove the hub nut, and washer.

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b40/JoshB_/balljoint/13.jpg
Using a punch in the center of the drive shaft hammer the shaft inward and out of the hub spline. This can be done with a 2x4 instead of a punch. Careful not to damage the shaft threads. Heat and/or liquid wrench may assist the process if the shaft spline is rusted inside the hub.

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b40/JoshB_/balljoint/14.jpg
Inner view of shaft backed out of hub. Now remove the three 18mm bolts securing the hub assembly. (max amount the shaft should be back out at the this time shown)

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b40/JoshB_/balljoint/15.jpg
http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b40/JoshB_/balljoint/15b.jpg
Using correct allen head, remove the one bolt shown here, securing the ABS sensor. Once the bolt is removed, wiggle it side to side and pull it out, and remove the nut securing its wire to the control arm.
Now again using your punch, carefully tap the shaft out the rest of the way from the hub, and remove the hub assembly. Put it somewhere clean to avoid debris entering the bearing.

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b40/JoshB_/balljoint/16.jpg
Remove the hub shielding, and now you should have a clear view of both the top and bottom ball joints.

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b40/JoshB_/balljoint/17.jpg
Remove the cotter pin from the top ball joint threads, and back the nut off.

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b40/JoshB_/balljoint/18b.jpg
If the ball joints are stock, you will have to use a hammer and chisel to shear the heads off all 4 rivets. This is a quicker process then drilling them out, although you may need to do both. This will take the majority of the job time.

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b40/JoshB_/balljoint/18.jpg
If they've been replaced before, just remove the nuts and bolts.

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b40/JoshB_/balljoint/19.jpg
You will now need the "pickle fork" tool that can be rented at most part stores.

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b40/JoshB_/balljoint/20.jpg
Push the fork into the balljoint shaft so that the threads sit in the middle of the fork. Using a hammer, drive the fork inward till the gradual gap in the fork POPS the ball joint. Keep yourself clear, and be sure to wear eye protection. (NOTE: picture shown still has balljoint nuts and bolts secured, at this time they would be removed)

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b40/JoshB_/balljoint/21.jpg
Remove the cotter-pin and nut from the bottom balljoint.

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b40/JoshB_/balljoint/22.jpg
Again remove the four rivets (if stock), or nuts and bolts if they've previously been replaced.

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b40/JoshB_/balljoint/23.jpg
Again, using the "pickle-fork", pop the bottom balljoint out, same as the top, and remove its rivets, or nuts and bolts. After they've been removed, knock the balljoint downward and out of its hole. This was the hardest part of the job. It took a lot of beating with the hammer, some drilling of the rivets, and a full can of liquid wrench. For some reason the bottom ones rust themselves in much worse. It may take hours on just the bottoms....stick with it...they WILL come out eventually!


INSTALLATION IS REVERSE OF REMOVAL. I DID THE TOP JOINT FIRST, THEN THE BOTTOM.

Before lowering the vehicle, grease all four ball joints, gently till you feel resistance in the grease gun.
BE CAREFUL NOT TO OVER PUMP IT, OR YOU WILL BUST THE BOOT!

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b40/JoshB_/balljoint/24.jpg
During reinstall, you'll need to compress the caliper to fit it over the break pads. Compress them slowly as to not lock them up. I reccommend using the old pad to compress the pistons simultaniously. I was just struggling to take photos and finish the job. It was 9pm, and I was holding it in one hand, and the camera in the other. :)
Be prepared when you take it for the first test drive to have spongey breaks till it retightens around the break pads. A dozen or so slow spaced pumps on the brakes should bring it back to normal. Just dont race out and go to hit the brakes fast. You won't stop!

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b40/JoshB_/balljoint/1.jpg
After everything is reinstalled, and the truck is back on the ground, retorque hub nut to 123 ft. lbs.

Nice pics.
Great post. Should help some of the recent posters who've been asking/having trouble.
But why are you removing brand new joints towards the end of your post?
(I know it's just for illustration purposes)

Bet your Mom is proud of your fingernails ..... NOT.
:thumbsup:

Excellent thread.

I will definitely keep this in mind.

Scared me at first when you were using the torque wrench to break the center nut in the first pic.

yea, Im definately a visual guy. pix make it much easier, thats why I like to help out with them. BlazerLT, no worries...I didnt really use it to break torque...just for illustration purposes

question for ya'll. although the balljoint itself had grease in it, the rubber section did not. do you think youre supposed to add grease on a new install?

question for ya'll. although the balljoint itself had grease in it, the rubber section did not. do you think youre supposed to add grease on a new install?

you are supposed to grease new ball joints before you lower the vehicle and put weight on them according to my chilton's manual, but as they come with grease in them, i dont think it is a crucial step, but im no expert, so dont rely soely on my advice.

i sure couldve used this post about a week ago:) i was pullin my hair out trying to do mine;)

Glad everything went well for you. Excellent post, and nice pics too.
I have to agree with Sultan Gris, this would have been great two weeks ago before I did mine. But, now we have something new for the How To section.
Great Post!!

question for ya'll. although the balljoint itself had grease in it, the rubber section did not. do you think youre supposed to add grease on a new install?

Yes.

Good job Josh. I added it to the FAQ thread.

BlazerLT is right, you have to grease the new joints after installing them or they will fail prematurely. Pump in the grease and watch the boots. When the boots fill and become slightly firm to the touch, you're done.

Also, I recommend putting something between the C-clamp and the piston of the caliper while compressing it. I usually use one of the old pads so that you press it evenly and have less of a chance of damaging it.

I just added the note about the grease. Did it this morning before work. I'm always terrified that it's going to bust the boot, cuz I've done it before. This time, I just pumped gently till I felt a bit of resistance in the grease gun. Then stopped. It's hard to tell when they're full sometimes till POP out comes the grease.

And I totally agree about the old pad to compress the pistons simultaniously. (I edited and added the note)
I was just struggling to take photos and finish the job. It was 9pm, and I was holding it in one hand, and the camera in the other. :)
But yes, I agree...use a pad and compress both pistons evenly to avoid locking it up.

I may to the Idler and Pitman myself, I'm still debating. If I do, I'll post HOW TO's with pix on those as well. I wish MORE people did that...jobs would be a lot easier for everyone doing it the first time! It's always nicer to learn from SOMEONE ELSES mistakes

Just remember to put a couple of pump of grease in every 3 months with no weight on the tire.

I just jack up that corner, throw in 3 pumps of grease into them and let it back down.

I always pump enough so the boot is firm to the touch. Sometimes up to 5 pumps is needed.

Anyone know where the damn grease goes? I don't see it leaking anywhere, I just keep pumping it in.

Anyone know where the damn grease goes? I don't see it leaking anywhere, I just keep pumping it in.

The grease goblins come and suck it out in the middle of the night.

The grease goblins come and suck it out in the middle of the night.

Hearty little buggers to take the cold up here for a meal. ;)

Just weird don't you think. Always in, never out. The black hole of grease death. :lol:

As the grease does its job it begins to break down. It becomes more viscous and much thinner withthe heat and wear applied to it. As it breaks down it seeps out through the seals and basically just blows off like an oil leak.
What you are replacing is the grease that has broken down and leaked out, and what the grease goblins suck out to feed to their babies....:smokin: :tongue:

:lol: nice.

Yum....

Just want to add that the ABS sensor has an electrical connector about 1.5 feet up on the frame which is the best place to disconnect cause those allen screws may break off if rusted like most. I had to use a puller on the lower ball joint too. Best time to inspect and replace the CV axle too.

Great post! Might be doing this soon!

Hey guys!!
I have a 96' s-10 Blazer and am getting ready to put a 2" Superlift on it. This is a great post as I have never done the ball joints before and I have ordered Moog replacements for mine. Top should be easy as I can install them on the upper control arms that come with the lift kit prior to installing the upper control arms on the truck. The bottoms were replaced before by the previous owner so hopefully those will be a little easier to get out.

Anyway, stupid question, the ball joints simply slide into place, or do you have to press them in with a tool?

I did not see a post or how to in here about installing the Superlift 2" kit, so I'll ge the camera and takes some pictures so hopefully it can someone else down the line

Thanks,
Marcinko

Nice !! and thanks for taking the time out to take the pictures. Pretty soon we will be able to access a complete video libary for part replacement. Thanks again!

re. seating the caliper piston, i remove the 2 caliper bolts, then use a large screwdriver between the outer pad & the caliper & slowly pry the piston back in in a few seconds. (AFTER I remove the master cylinder cap & check the fluid level) no messin' with the c-clamp & piston goes back in straight

re. seating the caliper piston, i remove the 2 caliper bolts, then use a large screwdriver between the outer pad & the caliper & slowly pry the piston back in in a few seconds. (AFTER I remove the master cylinder cap & check the fluid level) no messin' with the c-clamp & piston goes back in straight

Not smart, you need to push it back evenly, not pry it back and forth so it can jam.

C-clamp is the best method seeing it pushes it back uniformly.

Hey guys!!
I have a 96' s-10 Blazer and am getting ready to put a 2" Superlift on it. This is a great post as I have never done the ball joints before and I have ordered Moog replacements for mine. Top should be easy as I can install them on the upper control arms that come with the lift kit prior to installing the upper control arms on the truck. The bottoms were replaced before by the previous owner so hopefully those will be a little easier to get out.

Anyway, stupid question, the ball joints simply slide into place, or do you have to press them in with a tool?

I did not see a post or how to in here about installing the Superlift 2" kit, so I'll ge the camera and takes some pictures so hopefully it can someone else down the line

Thanks,
Marcinko
The upper ball joints are a press fit and you draw them tight by tightening the nut. The lower ball joints are a little different. Do not install the grease fitting until it is seated into the lower control arm. Use a jackstand with a small block on it so the weight of the vehicle is on bottom of the ball joint. Make sure it is started straight then use about a 4lb sledge and hit down on the lower control arm around the ball joint until it seats all the way in. Don't forget to have an alignment done after you are done.

lt, if you go at the center of the pad, on the outside (non-piston side)of the rotor it can only go in straight.

I don't know if I even want to fool with something like this or not. I am due for all ball-joints to be replaced. :/

It really isn't all that bad to do them, it just takes some time and patience. Plan on a whole day to do all four. The biggest pain is chiseling out the old rivets - if you have access to an air chisel it makes it easier.
I ended up pulling the hubs to have better access to the lower ball joints - but it isn't required. Keep in mind that if you are doing it have the 36mm socket on hand for the axle nut.

Yes that was a nice thread a some very good pictures too. The part where you was pounding the pickle fork with the hammer on the bottom ones tryung to break them loose, I know everyone don't have compressed air but get one of those forks and a air impact driver cuts out alot of work. Once agan nice thread.

Before you start removing your ball joints do you have to unload your torsion bars?

You do not need to unload your torsion bars.

all you do is support the unload the steering knuckle by placing jackstands under the lower control arms then you can take them apart

So if I were going to go as far as to replace control arm bushings at the same time while I have things apart, then would I need to unload the torsion bars? Could I unload them by breakign the balljoints free while a jack is supporting the lower control arm, then lower the jack to relieve the tension?

One thing I just noticed is that he has twin pisont calipers.

Mine on my 1995 are single. :(

hmm not to sure about that one i honestly never tryed that any time i did lower bushings i just unloaded the tbars right away

there is alot of stored energy there and it might be safer to just unload them to do bushings

Help!...im trying to take the front drive shafts out of the hub, and i cant get it to slide off the splines. I have hit it with a punch as shown in the picture, and no luck at all. Am i supposed to unbolt something else?? i've done all the work just as the pictures have shown, but my shaft will not slide out so i can gain access to the lower ball joint. I wasnt going to remove it, until i realized theres no room to pull the old joint out and put the new one in. Any help would be great!..thanks

Help!...im trying to take the front drive shafts out of the hub, and i cant get it to slide off the splines. I have hit it with a punch as shown in the picture, and no luck at all. Am i supposed to unbolt something else?? i've done all the work just as the pictures have shown, but my shaft will not slide out so i can gain access to the lower ball joint. I wasnt going to remove it, until i realized theres no room to pull the old joint out and put the new one in. Any help would be great!..thanks

Get a Bigger Hammer.

Really if you are afraid to use a real hammer you could heat it up a little. But watch where you put that heat you dont want to damage a CV boot.

yea i was gonna try heat soon, just gotta get a propane torch. Anyway, yea i've put a LOT of pressure on it, because i tried to use a puller, and i just dont wanna have somethin break. Anyway, if you think a bigger hammer and some heat will work, then i'll give it a shot. thanks!

A 3 jaw puller works well too. Provides pressure while you wack the crap out of it with the hammer. And yes, a bigger hammer = better results. I use a 3# sledge.

When I did mine I started with a punch. It did all of nothing what-so-ever so I ditched the punch and started pounding the axles directly with the hammer. I was very careful to hit it straight on and not miss and hit the threads. I also watched closely between hits to be sure the end of the axle was not mushrooming. They did fine and that's what finaly got the axles out.

I used a pretty decent size mini hand sledge. not sure of the weight, but it's the typical Estwing hand sledge you can get at Home Depot. It worked phenominaly well for the axles and for knocking the rivets out of the balljoints (in that application I drilled the rivets being sure not to screw up the holes in the control arms, then I used the hammer to pound a punch to knock the rivets out)

Oh, also I wrapped several layers of electrical tape around the threads on the axle so if it was hit or rubbed on somethign or bumped somethign there was a much smaller chance of compromising those threads. I have no idea how durable those threads are - it just seemed like a good idea to me.

If you had a peice of scrap metal you could put that up aginst the axle and hit that. The big thing is you dont want to take more than a couple of hits to break it loose or you will start to mushroom it out.

Anyways I forgot to say nice thread!

The only thing I disagree with is buying parts at Autozone.
Those a$$clowns always give me the wrong part and I have to drive back all greasy to get the proper ones.

My 2 cents worth.

I can't see how electrical tape would help saving the threads. You need to hit the axel with lots of force to do the job. For those into a few love taps to free this axel it will take a lot more than that. Full swings with a hand sledge will likely take 3-4 wacks to get it to free up. Don't be gentle!!!

I agree with the sledge as that is what i used. If you are worried about missing and hitting the threads ... they are hardened and it will take a lot to damage them. In any case, if you are still worried, try spinning on the axel nut just beyond the end of the axel. Once things are free the nut should spin off and straighten any slight ding on the way. I tried not to but I dinged the threads a couple times and no damage.

Also to get ball joint rivets off I tried the chisel method and it is not that great if you don't have an air chisel. Drilling is just a pain too. I used a Dremmel with a cutting wheel to notch the rivets first. They slice off much easier with a newly sharpened chisel this way. Try a notch right across the top like a standard screw. Chiseling from the side will peel the rivet top right off. If it bends up allong the notch, hammer it back down and it will break off.
Clean up the top by grinding it flush and then a punch will tap the rivet out with no mess or fuss. I hate fuss.

Good luck .. left side done. Right side this weekend.

good thread

To save yourself a headache, coat the splines of the outer CV joint with anti seize when reassembling. Literally one tap with a mallet is all it takes to separate the axle from the hub next time!

EXCELLENT POST

I too, have spent a day and half trying to remove lower ball joint on '98 Jimmy 4WD the way the service manual says.....

I finally did manage to get it out, but only because it was broken and I could remove the rubber and some metal from it for extra clearance.

But now there is NO WAY to get a new one in there, Or to mount the top of it first to the control arm and then install the cast steering knuckle over the ball joints stud.. Its just impossible going by the service manual instructions.

Tomorrow I will remove everything your way....sometimes the long way is the shortest. Thanks again.

I started this project and have everything taken apart to the hub assembly. I am know try to "tap" the drive shaft out of the hub assembly. The threaded drive shaft will not budge a milimeter. I started with a punch as suggested, then went to the 2" x 4", and after beating the 2" x 4" to splinters (literally) the drive shaft has not moved at all. Is there anything I could have missed? I have removed everything (including the ABS sensor and the 3 hub assembly bolts). how far should it slide back??? Until the threads have gone completely through the hub assembly? And even after removing the hub assembly bolts it does not seem to move at all either. I though even though the drive shaft was still in place I might see a little movement. PLEASE HELP!!

Can the ball joints be replaced with out removing the hub assembly, or is it pretty much impossible? Thanks!

First of all, the hub must be removed to replace the lower ball joint. The upper joint can be replaced without hub or axle removal. Three bolts hold the hub to the knuckle. When the 36mm axle nut is removed, the axle shaft should move inward about one inch. Also, the ABS sensor should not be removed from the hub. Clean all rust and dirt from both mounting surfaces before reinstalling the sensor, then hope for the best. Air gap clearance is critical to ABS operation, the slightest bit of dirt/rust where the sensor mounts will cause ABS problems.

Ajkolar,

Hopefully you removed the axle nut (36mm) AND the WASHER.
I got mine to move by whacking it hard with the "hammer" side of an axe. It moved once i finally gave it a good whack...metal to metal. There was no thread damage. Good Luck.

i found a little trick in getting the botom ball joint out than sitting there and beating on it i put a hydrolic jack in between the arms and pumped it till it popped off the knuckle because man it was rusted solid in there

haha well ok im going back to my dodge neon forums :)

Anybody knows if spicer ball joints will fit, 2000 blazer S-10 stock ball joints. I'm trying to buy the ball joints from an internet store, and I would hate to send them back if they do not fit. Any help is greatly appreciated

guys-
just did a lower ball joint on my son's 99 blazer 4X4. while it's true that it can't be done without taking the hub off, i found it's a lot easier to break the upper ball joint, take of the hub retaining nut, bang the spline shaft back out and that allows you enough clearance to get to the ball joint. you don't need to completely undo the whole hub assembly.
another tip for removing the spline shaft - take the nut completely off. thread it back on with the bottom of the nut facing out until it is just flush with the end of the spline shaft. then you can bang the hell out of the spline shaft without risking messing up the threads, and if you hit off center, you'll only hit the back of the nut. no real risk of damage, unless your a complete loser ;-)

nice post! i thought i was going to have to rent a press but apperantly not. im working on a 92 S10 4WD so im hoping its the same! where exactly do i put my jack stand?

Just started mine today on a 2001 4wd. Sheared the top of the rivets off with a dremel on the top ball joint and then spent the next hour trying to get it to pop loose. Then I realized I need to also drill them out. spent another 2 hours with the pickle fork, but it just wouldn't budge. The top control arm looked like it was bending instead of the ball joint coming out.There just wasn't much room to be swinging a hammer.Just as I was about to give up and put it all back together, I smacked the pickle fork one last time and it popped right out. , By then I think I had said every curse word I knew.

Started the bottom one and the nut was rusted on, had to cut about 2 1/2 sides of the nut off with the dremel and then was able to get the nut off. Thats as far as I got today. About 5 hours total so far.

I got enough ball joints to do both sides of the car, but having second thoughts about doing the other side, this is little more of a pain in the ass then I was expecting.

Also there were no cotter pins top or bottom, they had probably rusted away, or factory never put them in.

Just finish the job. If you do it half a$$ed you will regret it.
Put good parts in there and know its done right. Otherwise Im afraid youre just waiting for a bad situation to get worse.

yeah, if you think this project is bad, try replacing your heater core! I'd replace my ball joints again ANY day!

get a bigger hammer :biggrin:

Don't bend your control arm though. It's been a few years now since I did my ball joints, but it seems you need to pop them loose with the pickle fork before you drill the rivets. Maybe that will add some stability to what you're doing. I used a little hand held sledge hammer on mine and they were pretty easy. I had to take some serious swings at em even with that big of a hammer, so I would imagine if you're using a little chicken sh!t hammer, you're probably going to have to work a lot harder.

Oh, and forget about the dremel. Just drill them with a small drill bit (don't take metal off of the control arms - only take out rivet material) and them shear them off with a chisel. It's about nine thousand times faster that way and very easy.

Got the job done on the drivers side, the side that was bad. I would have to say the hardest part was popping the ball joint with the pickle fork. I was using a 4lb mini sledge but was really worried about it screwing up another part as I was pounding it in. Before I do the other side, I am going to pick up a ball joint remover tool. I was doing some searching and this seems to be an easier way to get them out.

^^
heat wrench is the easiest way.

btw, blazers are notorious for going through ball joints. don't waste your money on the cheap autozone ones - you'll be replacing them in a few months. i got the close to the top ones from napa and have had good luck with them.

Moog or TRW.

I dont know about the ball joint remover tool. Ive never used one. Maybe it would be worth it.

The "ball joint remover tool" is used for ball joints that are pressed into the control arm. 4WD Blazer ball joints are either riveted or bolted in, (the press will not work). First separate the ball joint from the steering knuckle with a pickle fork, then remove the bolts or grind the rivet heads off and knock the rivets out.

The "ball joint remover tool" is used for ball joints that are pressed into the control arm. 4WD Blazer ball joints are either riveted or bolted in, (the press will not work). First separate the ball joint from the steering knuckle with a pickle fork, then remove the bolts or grind the rivet heads off and knock the rivets out.

Not the tool to press out the ball joint, there is another tool used to pop out the stud from spindle. Instead of using pickle fork.