Speed Sensor
ridgefire
02-21-2006, 06:43 PM
first off let me give you the basics of my vehicle
1996
Windstar
3.8L
Sorry dont know what transmission I have other than its an automatic
148,000miles
My ABS light came on and everytime I try to stop the ABS activate. I had no choice but to drive it for 200 miles like that. Was on road trip didnt have the money to go to a mechanic. I know I'm bad.
Now that I have it home the Overdrive light flashes and it shifts real hard.
Talked to friend who knows a little bit about cars thinks its the right rear wheel speed sensor which makes sense because that drum is rusted pretty bad on the outside so thinking maybe a hunk of rust broke off and broke the sensor.
Now for the question how hard is it to replace the speed sensor?
I will have the rear wheels off anyways going to do a brake job on it.
It might also have a bad bearing on right rear also wont know for sure to I tear it apart.
1996
Windstar
3.8L
Sorry dont know what transmission I have other than its an automatic
148,000miles
My ABS light came on and everytime I try to stop the ABS activate. I had no choice but to drive it for 200 miles like that. Was on road trip didnt have the money to go to a mechanic. I know I'm bad.
Now that I have it home the Overdrive light flashes and it shifts real hard.
Talked to friend who knows a little bit about cars thinks its the right rear wheel speed sensor which makes sense because that drum is rusted pretty bad on the outside so thinking maybe a hunk of rust broke off and broke the sensor.
Now for the question how hard is it to replace the speed sensor?
I will have the rear wheels off anyways going to do a brake job on it.
It might also have a bad bearing on right rear also wont know for sure to I tear it apart.
CoachKarl
02-21-2006, 10:51 PM
Welcome Ridgefire,
You're problem is common.
1. Back up to the Windstar forum, and plug "vss" into the "search this forum" thing.
2. Read all the hits.
3. Post your "new improved" question here.
we can help
Karl
You're problem is common.
1. Back up to the Windstar forum, and plug "vss" into the "search this forum" thing.
2. Read all the hits.
3. Post your "new improved" question here.
we can help
Karl
ridgefire
02-22-2006, 01:17 PM
Thank you I will search for that. Shoot I spent over an hour looking before I posted that question I just didnt know what to search for.
ridgefire
02-22-2006, 01:20 PM
Hmmm I must be doing something wrong.
Sorry - no matches. Please try some different terms
Sorry - no matches. Please try some different terms
mtmaurer8ooo
02-22-2006, 01:55 PM
ridgefire - Just a few things...
1) They only used one trans in the Windstar in 96 - AX4S. I don't have any recommendations for your shifting issues except...I would have a tranny shop test drive it.
2) The rear ABS sensors look really easy to replace. Just one bolt to hold them in place. Plug and play.
3) What makes your friend suspect the RR sensor? You should really have it scanned to see what's up. Sometimes even w/o a code you can pull something up. One or more sensor(s) may be sending an erratic signal.
4) Before you do ANYTHING...carefully clean all of the sensors and their respective connections w/ electric parts cleaner and inspect them - this includes the exciter rings. Gob some dielectric grease on the pigtail connections and give her a test drive. Also, clean up and adjust the rear brakes on it while you're back there. The rear sensors - if they are in fact the culprit - seem quite prone to contamination due to their location.
5) Let us know what you find. And Good Luck. I hope this helps. M.
1) They only used one trans in the Windstar in 96 - AX4S. I don't have any recommendations for your shifting issues except...I would have a tranny shop test drive it.
2) The rear ABS sensors look really easy to replace. Just one bolt to hold them in place. Plug and play.
3) What makes your friend suspect the RR sensor? You should really have it scanned to see what's up. Sometimes even w/o a code you can pull something up. One or more sensor(s) may be sending an erratic signal.
4) Before you do ANYTHING...carefully clean all of the sensors and their respective connections w/ electric parts cleaner and inspect them - this includes the exciter rings. Gob some dielectric grease on the pigtail connections and give her a test drive. Also, clean up and adjust the rear brakes on it while you're back there. The rear sensors - if they are in fact the culprit - seem quite prone to contamination due to their location.
5) Let us know what you find. And Good Luck. I hope this helps. M.
ridgefire
02-22-2006, 03:33 PM
He looked at it and drove it. He thinks its the sensor. I dont know that much about the electronics...I can do the basics brakes, spark plugs, oil changes...The real basic stuff
wiswind
02-22-2006, 05:01 PM
I also own a '96 3.8L
I have some pictures of a few of my projects that may be of some help to you.....I have them posted at
http://community.webshots.com/album/201931518cScpNK
You should be able to see the wheel sensors in the pictures....It is a gear....with a magnetic pickup. One thing that happens is that the gears can become loaded with brake lining dust. For the rear wheels, I would remove the tire,....even the brake drum.....and spray a liberal amount of brake cleaner...to clean the brakes, and the gear / wheel sensor. Some have posted that they found the sensor to be a bit far from the gears.....
What happens is that each time one of the "teeth" of the gear wheel passes the magnetic pickup.....it generates a magnetic pulse in the pickup....which becomes an electric pulse. From the pulses coming from each wheel, the ABS system is able to tell if one or more wheel is locked up.....and releases the brake (pulses it...making that loud noise that you hear).
There are a lot of codes that cover the wheel sensors that will tell you which wheel....and exactly what the problem is.
Also, the ABS light can come on if the brake fluid is even very slightly low in the master cylinder. So check the fluid level in the master cylinder.....is is normal for the fluid to drop slightly over time as the brake linings wear.
Overdrive light:
This is a "check transmission" light....just like a "check engine" light.
You can have the transmission codes read to find out what is causing the problem. One common failure is the Transmission Range Sensor (TRS).
The TRS is mounted on TOP of the transmission. There is a cable that goes from the gear select lever in the car.....to the TRS. The TRS senses what gear you have selected, and the electronics take over from there.
The TRS is about $30 to $40 and easy to change yourself.
I would also make sure to change that transmission fluid at least every 30K miles.
Your '96 requires MERCON rated ATF. Do NOT use Mercon V or a fluid that claims to be both Mercon and Mercon V.
I use Mobil 1 ATF, which is Mercon rated, synthetic, and easily found at auto parts stores such as Autozone.
I recommend a synthetic as it will take the heat better, and give you great cold shifting.
I have some pictures of a few of my projects that may be of some help to you.....I have them posted at
http://community.webshots.com/album/201931518cScpNK
You should be able to see the wheel sensors in the pictures....It is a gear....with a magnetic pickup. One thing that happens is that the gears can become loaded with brake lining dust. For the rear wheels, I would remove the tire,....even the brake drum.....and spray a liberal amount of brake cleaner...to clean the brakes, and the gear / wheel sensor. Some have posted that they found the sensor to be a bit far from the gears.....
What happens is that each time one of the "teeth" of the gear wheel passes the magnetic pickup.....it generates a magnetic pulse in the pickup....which becomes an electric pulse. From the pulses coming from each wheel, the ABS system is able to tell if one or more wheel is locked up.....and releases the brake (pulses it...making that loud noise that you hear).
There are a lot of codes that cover the wheel sensors that will tell you which wheel....and exactly what the problem is.
Also, the ABS light can come on if the brake fluid is even very slightly low in the master cylinder. So check the fluid level in the master cylinder.....is is normal for the fluid to drop slightly over time as the brake linings wear.
Overdrive light:
This is a "check transmission" light....just like a "check engine" light.
You can have the transmission codes read to find out what is causing the problem. One common failure is the Transmission Range Sensor (TRS).
The TRS is mounted on TOP of the transmission. There is a cable that goes from the gear select lever in the car.....to the TRS. The TRS senses what gear you have selected, and the electronics take over from there.
The TRS is about $30 to $40 and easy to change yourself.
I would also make sure to change that transmission fluid at least every 30K miles.
Your '96 requires MERCON rated ATF. Do NOT use Mercon V or a fluid that claims to be both Mercon and Mercon V.
I use Mobil 1 ATF, which is Mercon rated, synthetic, and easily found at auto parts stores such as Autozone.
I recommend a synthetic as it will take the heat better, and give you great cold shifting.
ridgefire
02-22-2006, 05:21 PM
Could the o/d light flashing be a result of the bad speed sensor. What my friend explained to me is that the computer is reading as the tire is locked up and more power is needed by the transmission. There for the computer is switching the transmission into the high pressure mode. The o/d doesnt start flashing right away and the transmission except for an occasional hard shift is shifting fine everything is feeling fine as far as driving its just the flashing light.
My friend used to work for a transmission shop. I'm just looking for a second opinion I guess.
I hope I havent lost anyone and I hope I explained it right. I'm no good with these computers.
My friend used to work for a transmission shop. I'm just looking for a second opinion I guess.
I hope I havent lost anyone and I hope I explained it right. I'm no good with these computers.
wiswind
02-23-2006, 04:48 PM
I do not think that the wheel sensor would cause the O/D light to flash.
I think that they are separate problems.
The wheel sensors are used by the ABS system to release the brake pressure to keep a wheel from staying locked up.
They are NOT used to cause the transmission to boost power out.
From what I have read....
The brake pressure switch that is mounted on the bottom of the master cylinder is used by the PCM (computer) to determine if the brakes are being used.....and has to do with preventing torque converter lockup under braking conditions. My brake pressure switch did fail (they are somewhat a common failure) and I had no cruise control (is also used to release the cruise control when the brakes are applied)....but I had NO flashing O/D light or noticeable shifting issues with the transmission.
I think that they are separate problems.
The wheel sensors are used by the ABS system to release the brake pressure to keep a wheel from staying locked up.
They are NOT used to cause the transmission to boost power out.
From what I have read....
The brake pressure switch that is mounted on the bottom of the master cylinder is used by the PCM (computer) to determine if the brakes are being used.....and has to do with preventing torque converter lockup under braking conditions. My brake pressure switch did fail (they are somewhat a common failure) and I had no cruise control (is also used to release the cruise control when the brakes are applied)....but I had NO flashing O/D light or noticeable shifting issues with the transmission.
RonnieC
07-18-2007, 10:32 AM
It seems my strange problems are more common than I thought. I have a 98 Windstar. It wouldn't pass inspection (fuel sensor) so the guys at the shop replaced the assembly? in the tank. That also fixed my fuel gauge, which hadn't worked in a while. Then a couple of weeks later, I stalled.? It felt to me like a fuel pump problem, so I had it towed back to the shop. They figured they got a bad fuel pump from Ford. After checking it out, they realized the fuse had blown for the pump. Replaced it no charge. thank you. A week later the fuse blew again. ( I fixed that one myself) Took it back to the shop. Cant' figure it out... In the mean time, Right before the fuse blew the second time, my speedometer dropped to zero ( from about 70) and the transmission seemd to hesitate. After 160000 miles I expect strange things to happen, but I can usually figure them out. This one has me. Are these problems related? From what I have read, the VSS may solve one problem. Overall I have had good luck with the van. thanks for any help
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