2000 Windstar WON'T START! HELP!

Our next door neighbors/best friend's 2000 Windstar won't start. It won't even crank or click or anything for that matter! :disappoin It's a V6 model with only 40k on the clock.

The battery appears to have a nice charge, because to turn on the headlights, they're VERY bright. You put the key in, turn it to the "run" position and you can hear the fuel pump instantly prime. All i.p. and hvac lights fire up and are bright, but when you turn the key all the way to start it NOTHING happens. All the lights remain lit when you attempt to crank, so it's not like the battery is poopin' out.

It kinda' reminds me of when the starter relay would go out on my `99 Mustang... full battery power but no crankability. The neighbors said that a couple weeks ago it had done this, but the husband went out and moved the shifter from park down to drive then back into park with a little additional effort so as to make sure it wasn't foolin' the neutral safety switch with slight disengagement and then it fired up. Not the case THIS time.:disappoin It simply does nothing whether you're trying to start it in park OR neutral.

Any suggestions?? Please help if you do! Thanks in advance.

Dale

The "neutral safety" switch, also called Transmission Range Sensor (TRS) can cause the problem. This is connected, by a cable, to the gear select lever.
The TRS is mounted on TOP of the transmission. It is under the air filter and the flex hose that goes from the air filter to the engine. The TRS prevents the starter from working in any gear other than Neutral or Park.
As he got it to work by shifting through the gears, it sounds like this could be the cause. Try shifting to Neutral and see if it will start.
You can get a new TRS at a auto parts store for about $30 - $40.
It is not hard to change.

The "neutral safety" switch, also called Transmission Range Sensor (TRS) can cause the problem. This is connected, by a cable, to the gear select lever.
The TRS is mounted on TOP of the transmission. It is under the air filter and the flex hose that goes from the air filter to the engine. The TRS prevents the starter from working in any gear other than Neutral or Park.
As he got it to work by shifting through the gears, it sounds like this could be the cause. Try shifting to Neutral and see if it will start.
You can get a new TRS at a auto parts store for about $30 - $40.
It is not hard to change.

Thanks for the reply, wiswind! If the TRS is the problem... would it not start in neutral as well? Because the van refuses to crank regardless of whether it's in park OR neutral. Thanks again! :bigthumb:

Our next door neighbors/best friend's 2000 Windstar won't start. It won't even crank or click or anything for that matter! :disappoin It's a V6 model with only 40k on the clock.

The battery appears to have a nice charge, because to turn on the headlights, they're VERY bright. You put the key in, turn it to the "run" position and you can hear the fuel pump instantly prime. All i.p. and hvac lights fire up and are bright, but when you turn the key all the way to start it NOTHING happens. All the lights remain lit when you attempt to crank, so it's not like the battery is poopin' out.

It kinda' reminds me of when the starter relay would go out on my `99 Mustang... full battery power but no crankability. The neighbors said that a couple weeks ago it had done this, but the husband went out and moved the shifter from park down to drive then back into park with a little additional effort so as to make sure it wasn't foolin' the neutral safety switch with slight disengagement and then it fired up. Not the case THIS time.:disappoin It simply does nothing whether you're trying to start it in park OR neutral.

Any suggestions?? Please help if you do! Thanks in advance.

Dale

Dale

With the key on run try jumping the large lug on the starter solenoid with the smaller one with a screwdriver. Make sure you don't touch ground or there will be sparks flying. If the starter works the problem is else where. You should be able start the van this way.

Regards

Dan

Dale

With the key on run try jumping the large lug on the starter solenoid with the smaller one with a screwdriver. Make sure you don't touch ground or there will be sparks flying. If the starter works the problem is else where. You should be able start the van this way.

Regards

Dan

Hey Dan! Thanks for the reply!!:bigthumb:

I know exactly what you're suggesting, although used to pull this trick when the relay (solenoid?) was a separate unit mounted on the fenderwell. Is the solenoid you're referring to actually on the starter now? Because on my `99 Mustang (just one year older Ford), the relay is on the fenderwell. :dunno:

Dale

Hey Dan! Thanks for the reply!!:bigthumb:

I know exactly what you're suggesting, although used to pull this trick when the relay (solenoid?) was a separate unit mounted on the fenderwell. Is the solenoid you're referring to actually on the starter now? Because on my `99 Mustang (just one year older Ford), the relay is on the fenderwell. :dunno:

Dale

Dale

The solenoid is on the starter.

Dan

Dale

The solenoid is on the starter.

Dan

Thank you, Dan! I'm on a mission first thing in the morning! By the way, if jumping the solenoid works and cranks the engine over for start up, does this mean that the TRS is my problem?

Dale

It could be the TRS, or very likely the solonoid on the starter, as you are bypassing BOTH. I was thinking of the TRS as he was able to start the engine by shifting through the gears first.
A sticking solonoid will cause the no start, as the solonoid has to pull in....before any power gets to the starter. The solonoid and TRS are in series (both must pass the power)...

There are a lot of posts of the TRS failing as far as the transmission performance is concerned, but not for no start problems....but always possible.

It is also possible that you will do this 1 time, and the problem will be solved...but I would be wondering when it might happen again.

Hey guys, is there any way to isolate which part is faulty? (solenoid or TRS)

edit~
OH!... and one other thing, after looking up both a starter and the TRS on rockauto.com, I noticed they also referred to the TRS (or "neutral safety switch" as they called it) as a back-up light switch. Here's one of the parts they offered:

STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # NS200
Automatic Transmission {NEUTRAL SAFETY/BACK-UP LIGHT SW.}

If this switch is defective, would the back-up lights not function as well?... or could it still perform it's function for the lights but not for the starting issue? Just trying to isolate.

Dale

This just in... I crossed the solenoid on the starter and it fired right up. Checked the back-up lights and they do NOT work. We're runnin' up to the auto parts store right now to grab a new neutral safety switch! (confident that's our problem) Thank you SOOOOO much you guys for all your help!!!!!!

Dale

This just in... I crossed the solenoid on the starter and it fired right up. Checked the back-up lights and they do NOT work. We're runnin' up to the auto parts store right now to grab a new neutral safety switch! (confident that's our problem) Thank you SOOOOO much you guys for all your help!!!!!!

Dale

Dale

Glad to help. Let us know when you get it fixed!

Dan