, a'99 Windstar heater box modsnyone here cut it?

Hello and allow me to say Happy Valentines day to all of you!

I'm a new member here and have a 99 windstar LX with single zone heater that had a good blend door actuator. Unfortunately I found this out when I bought the van and discovered that it did not have heat. I have taken apart the lower dash (center console) and removed it and even the ductwork on the bottom of the dash. I have removed the 7 screw heater core cover and pulled on the heater core so I could see the blend door to discover than it was broken (the section that the actuator was supposed to go into was gone). Unfortunately I got the blend door out and broke it in the process. I had already ordered another heater box out of a wrecked 2000 windstar but am wondering how to cut the box and get the door out without breaking it too. If I can get it cut per 12ounce (aka Fordfan)'s method, hopefully I can epoxy glue or plastic weld the box back together. Anyone know where/how to cut the box so I can replace the blend door? I'm specifically looking for pics or anything, I am desperate!

I have put the heatercore lid and bottom cover back on and the ductwork and the van currently has no blend door and I have no heat. Previously the heater core hoses were hot on both sides. I didn't check them last night when I was doing all this so it could be the culprit too, I looked at the coolant and it isn't pretty so a clogged core could be somewhat of my problem, but I should have some heat shouldn't I ?

Check my posts for the cuts that I learned from 12ounce and Mora on how to modify the box to remove the door w/o removing the heater box (and the dash, etc).

Thanks!!!

Here's my pics of the cuts

http://img137.imageshack.us/img137/2849/im0018813jo.th.jpg (http://img137.imageshack.us/my.php?image=im0018813jo.jpg)

http://img78.imageshack.us/img78/7663/im0018836pu.th.jpg (http://img78.imageshack.us/my.php?image=im0018836pu.jpg)

http://img357.imageshack.us/img357/6461/im0018844xp.th.jpg (http://img357.imageshack.us/my.php?image=im0018844xp.jpg)

http://img88.imageshack.us/img88/3833/im0018856wb.th.jpg (http://img88.imageshack.us/my.php?image=im0018856wb.jpg)

http://img118.imageshack.us/img118/729/im0018868ft.th.jpg (http://img118.imageshack.us/my.php?image=im0018868ft.jpg)

http://img139.imageshack.us/img139/8391/im0018876my.th.jpg (http://img139.imageshack.us/my.php?image=im0018876my.jpg)

http://img139.imageshack.us/img139/8360/im0018880eh.th.jpg (http://img139.imageshack.us/my.php?image=im0018880eh.jpg)

Thanks 12ounce for all the help!

I am going to guess that the heater core is fine.
They don't seem to be a big clog issue on the windstar.
I have not messed with the blend door....so I cannot be of help there.

Phordguy,
Thanks for your knowledge! You replied to my recent post about the NO heat issue with my 99 windstar. My husband tried the pin on the actuator, but that didn't help. He's not a mechanic by any stretch of the word so, here's my question to you, or anyone else that can help.....

There is definitely heat comming out of the heat box....He has removed the actuator and it functions great, however, the "D" shaped hole is now just a circle, as something was pushed back into the heat/a/c box. I'm guessing that the end of the blend door has busted. You can stick a screw driver in what used to be the "d" shaped hole and turn the heat on & with the screw driver lift the blend door. The vaccum will suck the door in the correct position and 'voi la' HEAT! However the instant you turn the heat off or turn the van off, the blend door falls and the air is cold again.

SO......How can he cut into the heat box without having to tear up the dash, AND once he cuts into it, what does he do then.....

I'd love to avoid the $1200 repair bill, but this seems like such an impossible task.

Can ANYONE help?
Thanks so much for your infinite wisdom!
Tina

Tina,

I don't want to say how easy it is since I haven't yet cut the heater box inside the van yet, its been way to cold here to work outside and I don't have a warm garage for it. The cuts above are of other heaterbox that I ordered from the junkyard.

I have a lot of info I got from 12ounce from when he did the fix. Let me see if I can get the photos on here, but the good news is yes you can cut the heaterbox in the van and remove the blend door and fix it without pulling the dash. I am using a dremel at about half speed with the 561 multipurpose cutting bit per the directions I received. I sent you an email I think through the member profile, reply and I'll send you a pdf with instructions that I received.

(You probably the same problem as this one where the ear popped off due to the box warping/blend door binding):

http://img323.imageshack.us/my.php?image=brokenblenddoor8ic.jpg
http://img80.imageshack.us/img80/2888/repairedblenddoor1tt.jpg
http://img156.imageshack.us/img156/9310/repairedblenddoor26fl.jpg

http://img156.imageshack.us/my.php?image=rotarytool8rb.jpg

http://img107.imageshack.us/img107/5332/windstarheaterboxcuts0kh.th.jpg (http://img107.imageshack.us/my.php?image=windstarheaterboxcuts0kh.jpg)

http://img154.imageshack.us/img154/5026/windstarheaterboxcuts17hh.th.jpg (http://img154.imageshack.us/my.php?image=windstarheaterboxcuts17hh.jpg)

http://img221.imageshack.us/img221/2215/heaterboxexplodedview3ed.th.jpg (http://img221.imageshack.us/my.php?image=heaterboxexplodedview3ed.jpg)


http://img221.imageshack.us/img221/9201/heaterboxexplodedairflowpaths2.th.jpg (http://img221.imageshack.us/my.php?image=heaterboxexplodedairflowpaths2.jpg)

Phordguy,

Thanks so much for converting the computer files and posting my photos ... and also adding the photos that you made during your practice-run.

1. Just as a added reminder to anyone considering making this repair: YOU DON'T HAVE TO REMOVE THE HEATING/COOLING PLENUM FROM THE VAN ....
....... all these photos were made using "extra" plenums that were available for practice cuts etc.

2. Phordguy's practice cuts in the extra plenum look about as "rough" as the cuts that I made on my plenum. But "Jpetrone" used a keyhole saw for the straight portions of the cut ... and did a very crafty job. However, if you are careful or not, the cuts get covered up when the heater core is reinstalled.

3. One of the blend door photos show the broken blend door pieces before repair was begun. Then there are some photos of the repaired blend door. It's difficult to see, but there is quite a bit of reinforcement included in the epoxied joints. I used salvaged hard plastic pieces for reinforcements. Others have used various fabrics ... including glass cloth.

2. Phordguy's practice cuts in the extra plenum look about as "rough" as the cuts that I made on my plenum. But "Jpetrone" used a keyhole saw for the straight portions of the cut ... and did a very crafty job. However, if you are careful or not, the cuts get covered up when the heater core is reinstalled.



The pic with the belly pan on was post cutting of the box. As bad as my cuts were, they were all invisible with the pan put back on. Also you can make a prettier cut by going slow with the dremel at a 45 degree angle to the plenum.

http://img137.imageshack.us/my.php?image=im0018813jo.jpg


Hope to have some more pictures for you all tommorrow. Happy Monday holiday for some of ya'll!

No pictures but I found a better solution to the blend air door problem on the 99 windstar. On mine I had the classic broken hinge so I drilled a hole up through the door ( in the all air go through the heater core position) and screwed it to the top with a wood screw #12 x 1" with a milwaukee 3/8 45 degree angle drill and 1/8" bit. In this position all air flows through the heater core. Now on to part two. We have too much heat. I added a universal water valve to the water line supplying the heater that is cable operated through the dash ( nostelgic air parts $48 including shipping for the cable and valve) drilling only holes through the dash and firewall.The cowl needs to be removed to install the valve. My heater now works great with a total cost of $51.98 plus tax(I also had to buy a radio removal tool from walmart for $3.99. The only downside is that for bi-level or reheat(Summer humid with AC on and condensation on winshield heater water valve must opened to dehumidify(parts manual heater control valve, heater control valve cable, and radio removeall tool). This solution works excellent and doesen't cost a lot. For the past 75 years heat has been regulated in car heaters with a water valve!!!!

to cut the heater box all I used was a sharp utility knife it worked fine and was quite neat

Well this info has been very helpful!
I been telling my wife for a year now we need to get rid of that thing! Now she knows why! Of course shes not the one with cut up hands and charlie horses in the mid section!
I have gotten the broken door out while leaving the plenum in and heater core in, not easy but doable. Now have to pickup some epoxy and fix the door. Just can not wait to see how easy the repaired door goes back in, my bet is NOT!
My door and broken part match the photo posed above almost to a tee! When I showed my wife the pic and the part, she asked why I took a picture of the broken part.
Looks like the total job is going to take about 6 hours not including drying time on the epoxy repair.
Thanks to all who have shared this info and I hope you never have to go through this! Well I suppose you could take the easy way out and pay Ford the 1,300 bucks for the repair, but to me, paying 1/2 the vaule of the vehicle for a repair just is not an option!!!!!!
Stupid Mini Van!
iHateWindstars...

Phordguy are you still out there... I have a broken door and I was wondering if you still have that PDF describing repair, that you could send to me?

Thanks
autojoe1

Wow... I had no idea that this was a wide spread problem with this van. Mine broke about 5 or 6 years ago. I fixed it in the van with out any cutting. The end of the door that the actuator moves had broken. After a failed attempt to epoxy and re-install the door with out cutting failed, I became a bit more creative. I had no idea how to get the entire box out of the van, nor did I want to attempt it. So I figured that since the door would not go through the opening, so I needed something flexible to replace it. I began looking for a piece of donor plastic and found a portable high chair that was made of somewhat flexible plastic. I traced the shape and cut it out with my jig saw. I then cut the other "hinge" end off the pos ford blend door and bolted both the broken and cut hinges to the new (blue high chair) blend door. I was able to flex it enough to get it into place. I tested it with a hair dryer to make sure that it was not going to melt. It was fine. It has been working for 5 or 6 years now with no issue. Keep in mind, at the time; I was working with out any of the knowledge of this board. I can not provide photos of the install, but I think I still have the remaining high chair and old blend door is that would help any, let me know. Now keep in mind that the Ford door is all blended and has a foam seal, mine is a flat piece of plastic, but works fine.

Bravo jakhbet!!! Bravo!!!

Well... I am back on this topic again. This time two fold... So my "fix" for the blend door lasted 8 years. Not that big of an issue as I was planning on going back in and making a new one again in the same fashion as the old one. However... now i have an AC leak that i think is in the evaporator. I can not find the leak anywhere else and i can smell the 134 in the vents all summer. So... all the books i have say that the evaporator has to be replaced with the case. This is the same case that contains the blend door. So... looks like i am taking the dash out!

My question is this... once i take the dash out and the evaporator case... can i take the case apart? My memory says that it is plastic welded together and thus i can not take the evaporator out and have it repaired? Also this would aid in a longer term fix for the blend door.

Ford wants $480 for the evaporator and case which includes the blend door. I am going to look at some junk yards too. This is going to be a ton of labor on this one... :banghead:

Yep, the ac evaporator only comes from Ford as an included fixed part inside the plastic plenum. But it is available as a separate aftermarket part. Once you have the plenum removed, you will have to cut, and later repair, the plastic plenum to remove the blend door and the evap coil. I don't think it will be that difficult.

Like you wrote, you are facing a pretty large task ... mostly removing and installing the plenum.

I expect you will find the insulation deteriorated around the ac evap coil ... which you will replace ... and then the front ac will work better than ever. I have a post on this subject somewhere.

BTW, Ford did upgrade the plenum making the blend door a bit stronger ... I think it was late 2002, but I'm not certain. A Ford service guy could look that up for you.

Gosh, I wonder if the plenum could be cut, while still in the vehicle, ... in such a way as to remove the ac evap coil .... would be a new level of accomplishment for this string!!

I would just repair the current plenum myself and save the money and hassle of trying to find another one. My repaired blend door is probably in its ninth or tenth year.

I had the evaporator coils replaced on my '96.
I had it done by my local mechanic......major labor job.
They told me much what you have found.......FORD modified this part, so you have to buy the whole assembly $$$$.
My shop located a aftermarket coil for around $125.
It was STILL a lot of labor to replace.....but $125 was better than the $450 that was quoted for the FORD unit.
3 years later, it is still doing just fine......
I figured that if the OEM system worked just fine for 10 years......If a replacement was good for another 10.......good enough for me.

HOWEVER, what my shop did was to add a dye to the A/C system.......and was able to determine FOR SURE that it was the evaporator core that was leaking before all the expense and time to replace.
It is worth the small extra effort due to the labor expense involved.

If doing the work yourself.....Rockauto lists the front evaporator core for under $100.
Make sure to be careful and get the FRONT unit......not the rear unit.

When doing this repair, make sure to maintain the proper drainage for the water that you get from the condensation from the evaporator core.....lots of water that is supposed to drain through a tube that passes through the firewall into the engine compartment.

Also read up on proper A/C system work.....involving the sealed refrigerant system.
There may be local laws regarding this type of work.
Shops are required to have a recovery system to prevent the refrigerant from leaking into the atmosphere.
In fact.....up until a couple years ago, we could not even buy the R-134 refrigerant in Wisconsin without a license for this type of work.....no DIY'er walking into AutoZone and buying it off the shelf.

I have a windstar that had a busted blend door. :banghead: After getting jerked around by some shops and looking at some online DIY options, I came across this thing called heatertreater . It has done the job, you go in through the glovebox and make a cut so you don't have to disassemble the dash and it saves a ton of labor. It has been working smooth this season. Though I'm assuming busted evap coils coming up next:screwy: Nonetheless thanks for the tips!

Evap coils......let's hope that you don't have that coming up.
MAJOR labor.
Now, I needed them for my '96 (front blower box unit).
FORD has a improved part, that requires the WHOLE assembly be replaced......around $450.
My mechanic located a aftermarket unit that was to the old "unimproved" style that was about $125.