What maintenance should be done at 140,000 and beyond?
jwaimin
02-03-2006, 02:31 PM
I just bought a used 97 Windstar GL with 136,000 miles. It has worked fine, and hasn't let me down. I try to do most of the maintenance myself. With 140,000 miles nearing by, what maintenance should be done to it? I am mostly concerned with the transmission. I did not get the maintenance history for this minivan and would like to know what should be done to keep peace of mind.
floridatgp
02-04-2006, 12:26 AM
certainly drop pan and change tranny fluid and filter. A coolant & thermostat change, drop in a bottle of Bars heavy duty stop leak, some of us do that to catch timing chain cover leaks that can put antifreeze in crankcase without you catching it and ruining bearings. check upper radiator hose. check all vacuum lines, esp to back of engine and PVC.
I changed the range switch on top of tranny case as preventative measure, not hard or expensive part.
right at your mileage I had front struts and rear shocks changed, make the van handle like new.
search and read about EGR port & injector tip cleaning, If you have no symptoms, pinging or CEL, wait.
I changed the range switch on top of tranny case as preventative measure, not hard or expensive part.
right at your mileage I had front struts and rear shocks changed, make the van handle like new.
search and read about EGR port & injector tip cleaning, If you have no symptoms, pinging or CEL, wait.
LeSabre97mint
02-04-2006, 07:31 AM
certainly drop pan and change tranny fluid and filter. A coolant & thermostat change, drop in a bottle of Bars heavy duty stop leak, some of us do that to catch timing chain cover leaks that can put antifreeze in crankcase without you catching it and ruining bearings. check upper radiator hose. check all vacuum lines, esp to back of engine and PVC.
I changed the range switch on top of tranny case as preventative measure, not hard or expensive part.
right at your mileage I had front struts and rear shocks changed, make the van handle like new.
search and read about EGR port & injector tip cleaning, If you have no symptoms, pinging or CEL, wait.
Flordatgp
First off, I agree with your post!
I was reading through my maintenance guide for my 95 and found some interesting things. The maintenance millage stops around 125,000 miles. Are the considering the van used up after that? What does that say about my 95 with 180,000 + on it???
Another item is the fact that the filter in the trannie. They mention fluid change without filter change. This is to the end of the maintenance book! Are they saying that the filter doesn't need to be changed? I change my filter every time I drop the pan.
I would be interested in hearing from others on this and the maintenance schedule on later years.
Speaking about dropping the pan, anyone know of a place that sells a drain plug for the trannie that has a simple install?
Regards
Dan
I changed the range switch on top of tranny case as preventative measure, not hard or expensive part.
right at your mileage I had front struts and rear shocks changed, make the van handle like new.
search and read about EGR port & injector tip cleaning, If you have no symptoms, pinging or CEL, wait.
Flordatgp
First off, I agree with your post!
I was reading through my maintenance guide for my 95 and found some interesting things. The maintenance millage stops around 125,000 miles. Are the considering the van used up after that? What does that say about my 95 with 180,000 + on it???
Another item is the fact that the filter in the trannie. They mention fluid change without filter change. This is to the end of the maintenance book! Are they saying that the filter doesn't need to be changed? I change my filter every time I drop the pan.
I would be interested in hearing from others on this and the maintenance schedule on later years.
Speaking about dropping the pan, anyone know of a place that sells a drain plug for the trannie that has a simple install?
Regards
Dan
wiswind
02-04-2006, 07:41 AM
ENGINE OIL
I would send a sample for analysis, they can tell you if there is any coolant in the oil, or abnormal wear. Information and a free sample kit at www.blackstone-labs.com
You might also want to try an auto RX cleaning. This is not one of those solvent based cleaners that I would NOT recommend.
I am doing an ARX treatment right now. This will gently clean the insides of the engine.
I DO recommend it.
http://www.auto-rx.com/
FUEL SYSTEM
I would also run some fuel system cleaner through. After about 2 complete treatments, change the fuel filter.
Over the counter fuel system cleaners.... Chevron Techron and Redline Complete Fuel system cleaner.
The Redline has a lubricant that will be good for lubricating the fuel pump and injectors.
I am using a product called Fuel Power, FP60 in a "maintenance dose".
More information on this product at
http://www.lubecontrol.com/fuel.htm
POWER STEERING
I would change the power steering fluid.
Use the correct fluid for your year....It will be either "type F" transmission fluid or "Mercon" transmission fluid. Do not use "power steering" fluid from the auto parts store.
My '96 calls for the "Type F" transmission fluid. I have Redline Power Steering fluid in it.
If your '97 calls for Mercon transmission fluid in the power steering, I would use Mobil 1 ATF, which is Mercon rated.
This will give you a high quality synthetic fluid in your power steering system.
The Windstar tends to overheat the power steering fluid....which is why I am recommending a synthetic fluid.....that will be better at taking the heat, and still give you good cold flow.
TRANSMISSION
You have already been advised to change the fluid and filter.
Make sure to use the correct fluid....they changed the fuid type in the '97 model year. It will be Mercon or Mercon V transmission fluid. These are a specification, not a brand. You will want to use the correct fluid, as they are not interchangable. My '96 calls for Mercon, and I use Mobil 1 ATF.
I also strongly recommed a auxillary transmission cooler.
The windstar, as most minivans, has a CAR transmission, so it will require some TLC.
FORD calls for the fluid to be changed every 30K miles (21K miles for severe service).
BRAKES
I would check all the brakes, and bleed the fluid at each wheel. I would completely flush the old fluid from the system, replacing it with a quality new fluid. I am still using the Motorcraft fluid as it has a 550 degree dry boil point.
The fluid gets dark and nasty right at the wheel.
You might also give the brake pressure switch, located on the bottom of the master cylinder a good hard look. This switch can leak, and fail. If you see any sign of moisture on this switch, I would go to the dealer and get a replacement one. The replacement is cheap. When this switch fails, you cruise control will not work.
SPARK PLUGS and WIRES
I would change the spark plugs, if not already done. Also, if the wires are oringinal or questionable, I would replace them with a quality set.
For spark plugs, I would use ONLY Motorcraft DOUBLE PLATINUM. These plugs have the platinum enhancement on both the ground and center electrodes. The windstar uses a positive spark on one side of the engine, and a negative spark on the other. This causes the center electrode to wear faster on one side of the engine and the ground electrode to wear faster on the other.
Autolite also carries the double platinum plugs.
I would stay away from the Bosch plugs as people have reported that they do not do so well in the windstar.
The motorcraft plugs are rated for 100K miles, and will last that long with no problem, providing that there is not some other issue with the engine.
COOLING SYSTEM
I would change the coolant, and the upper, lower and 2 heater hoses. There is also a "bypass" hose that connects to a metal tube that passes through the intake from the water pump side to the other side of the engine.
I would change the thermostat as you have been advised. Get the correct heat rating for your year. Running a cooler thermostat, as in years past, is not a good idea as that will cause problems with the computer controls for your engine.
The traditional "green" coolant is getting very hard to find now.
Coolant has become a complex issue with the different types out there.
I have the Prestone "mixes with everything" in there now....but I have read a lot of posts on another site that say that this is pretty much like a Dexcool coolant.
I plan to try a G-05 type coolant this spring.
http://www.valvoline.com/pages/products/product_detail.asp?product=10
I also use Bar's Stop Leak, as I had a slight seapage with the timing chain cover , AKA Front cover. The leak was very slight, but can also leak into the engine oil. The steps to repair are MAJOR, and expensive to have someone else do. I also had the leakage at the lower intake manifold gasket....which is not as major of a repair....but I have not done it...as both leaks have been kept at bay with the bar's product.
These 2 leaks are very common on the '96 - '98 windstar with the 3.8L engine. The head gasket is not as common of failure on the post '95 windstar.
Not that it cannot fail, just not as common. These are 3 of their products that I would use.
http://www.barsproducts.com/product.cfm?id=38
http://www.barsproducts.com/product.cfm?id=43
http://www.barsproducts.com/product.cfm?id=45
OXYGEN SENSORS
You have 4 oxygen sensors. You have 2 catalytic converters, 2 sensors per converter. The sensor before each converter are the "upstream" sensors. The upstream sensors are used by the engine computer (PCM) to adjust things such as air / fuel mixture.
The sensors after each converter are the "downstream" sensors. These sensors are used to monitor the catylitic converters to make sure that they are working. That is the ONLY function that they provide.
The sensors on the converter that is more toward the rear of the car are "BANK 1" as they go to the rear bank of cylinders, which has cylinder #1
The sensors that are with the forward most converter, are "BANK 2".
The oxygen sensors on the windstar are rated for 100K miles.
I did change my "upstream" sensors, but did not notice much of a difference.
I would use only MOTORCRAFT brand.
If you do end up changing a sensor, I would replace them as a pair. They do slow down in switching speed as they age, and you want to have them switching pretty much at the same speed.
Again, they are NOT a high failure item. If the switching speed gets too slow, there is a failure code that will come up, lighting up your Check Engine Light. There are a lot of codes for the oxygen sensors that cover the types of failures, and tell you specifically the failure and the sensor that has the failure. For that reason, the "lean codes" (P0171 and P0174) are rarely caused by the sensors, but are just the sensors doing their job and reporting that the engine is running lean on one or more banks.
All 1996 and newer cars are required to be OBDII "complient"
What this means is, there is a plug under the dash...under the steering column that is the same on all 1996 and newer cars. If your check engine light comes on, you can go to many auto part stores, such as auto zone, and have them connect a generic code reader to that plug. They will get a readout of what the failure code is.
You will need to ask them for the actual numeric code, as most people would not know what to do with it. The reader will give a code and a description.
Such as.... P0304 "Misfire". Which is what I had once. I came home....looked up the code....and found that it was a Misfire on cylinder #4.
More information than they had given me. They told me to change the spark plugs and spark plug wires. I cleaned my EGR ports, which was the actual cause of the failure.
So, when you get the numeric code, you can do a search on this forum, and see what other windstar owners in the 1996 - 1998 vintage have had cause the code. You can also post a question with the code.
If you get failure codes P0171 and P0174, auto part store clerks often recommend changing the oxygen sensors, which rarely cure the problem.
Those codes are usually caused by a vaccum leak.
There is a TSB for these codes involving upper intake manifold bolt seals.....this TSB is ONLY for 1999 and newer. It does NOT apply to 1995 through 1998.
AIR FILTER
You should keep a clean air filter in there.
FORD dealer parts....at a good price from Millennium Ford in Seattle
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?siteid=214072
Auto Parts at good prices from Rock Auto
http://www.rockauto.com/
Some pictures from my repair projects which may be of help to you.
http://community.webshots.com/album/201931518cScpNK
I would send a sample for analysis, they can tell you if there is any coolant in the oil, or abnormal wear. Information and a free sample kit at www.blackstone-labs.com
You might also want to try an auto RX cleaning. This is not one of those solvent based cleaners that I would NOT recommend.
I am doing an ARX treatment right now. This will gently clean the insides of the engine.
I DO recommend it.
http://www.auto-rx.com/
FUEL SYSTEM
I would also run some fuel system cleaner through. After about 2 complete treatments, change the fuel filter.
Over the counter fuel system cleaners.... Chevron Techron and Redline Complete Fuel system cleaner.
The Redline has a lubricant that will be good for lubricating the fuel pump and injectors.
I am using a product called Fuel Power, FP60 in a "maintenance dose".
More information on this product at
http://www.lubecontrol.com/fuel.htm
POWER STEERING
I would change the power steering fluid.
Use the correct fluid for your year....It will be either "type F" transmission fluid or "Mercon" transmission fluid. Do not use "power steering" fluid from the auto parts store.
My '96 calls for the "Type F" transmission fluid. I have Redline Power Steering fluid in it.
If your '97 calls for Mercon transmission fluid in the power steering, I would use Mobil 1 ATF, which is Mercon rated.
This will give you a high quality synthetic fluid in your power steering system.
The Windstar tends to overheat the power steering fluid....which is why I am recommending a synthetic fluid.....that will be better at taking the heat, and still give you good cold flow.
TRANSMISSION
You have already been advised to change the fluid and filter.
Make sure to use the correct fluid....they changed the fuid type in the '97 model year. It will be Mercon or Mercon V transmission fluid. These are a specification, not a brand. You will want to use the correct fluid, as they are not interchangable. My '96 calls for Mercon, and I use Mobil 1 ATF.
I also strongly recommed a auxillary transmission cooler.
The windstar, as most minivans, has a CAR transmission, so it will require some TLC.
FORD calls for the fluid to be changed every 30K miles (21K miles for severe service).
BRAKES
I would check all the brakes, and bleed the fluid at each wheel. I would completely flush the old fluid from the system, replacing it with a quality new fluid. I am still using the Motorcraft fluid as it has a 550 degree dry boil point.
The fluid gets dark and nasty right at the wheel.
You might also give the brake pressure switch, located on the bottom of the master cylinder a good hard look. This switch can leak, and fail. If you see any sign of moisture on this switch, I would go to the dealer and get a replacement one. The replacement is cheap. When this switch fails, you cruise control will not work.
SPARK PLUGS and WIRES
I would change the spark plugs, if not already done. Also, if the wires are oringinal or questionable, I would replace them with a quality set.
For spark plugs, I would use ONLY Motorcraft DOUBLE PLATINUM. These plugs have the platinum enhancement on both the ground and center electrodes. The windstar uses a positive spark on one side of the engine, and a negative spark on the other. This causes the center electrode to wear faster on one side of the engine and the ground electrode to wear faster on the other.
Autolite also carries the double platinum plugs.
I would stay away from the Bosch plugs as people have reported that they do not do so well in the windstar.
The motorcraft plugs are rated for 100K miles, and will last that long with no problem, providing that there is not some other issue with the engine.
COOLING SYSTEM
I would change the coolant, and the upper, lower and 2 heater hoses. There is also a "bypass" hose that connects to a metal tube that passes through the intake from the water pump side to the other side of the engine.
I would change the thermostat as you have been advised. Get the correct heat rating for your year. Running a cooler thermostat, as in years past, is not a good idea as that will cause problems with the computer controls for your engine.
The traditional "green" coolant is getting very hard to find now.
Coolant has become a complex issue with the different types out there.
I have the Prestone "mixes with everything" in there now....but I have read a lot of posts on another site that say that this is pretty much like a Dexcool coolant.
I plan to try a G-05 type coolant this spring.
http://www.valvoline.com/pages/products/product_detail.asp?product=10
I also use Bar's Stop Leak, as I had a slight seapage with the timing chain cover , AKA Front cover. The leak was very slight, but can also leak into the engine oil. The steps to repair are MAJOR, and expensive to have someone else do. I also had the leakage at the lower intake manifold gasket....which is not as major of a repair....but I have not done it...as both leaks have been kept at bay with the bar's product.
These 2 leaks are very common on the '96 - '98 windstar with the 3.8L engine. The head gasket is not as common of failure on the post '95 windstar.
Not that it cannot fail, just not as common. These are 3 of their products that I would use.
http://www.barsproducts.com/product.cfm?id=38
http://www.barsproducts.com/product.cfm?id=43
http://www.barsproducts.com/product.cfm?id=45
OXYGEN SENSORS
You have 4 oxygen sensors. You have 2 catalytic converters, 2 sensors per converter. The sensor before each converter are the "upstream" sensors. The upstream sensors are used by the engine computer (PCM) to adjust things such as air / fuel mixture.
The sensors after each converter are the "downstream" sensors. These sensors are used to monitor the catylitic converters to make sure that they are working. That is the ONLY function that they provide.
The sensors on the converter that is more toward the rear of the car are "BANK 1" as they go to the rear bank of cylinders, which has cylinder #1
The sensors that are with the forward most converter, are "BANK 2".
The oxygen sensors on the windstar are rated for 100K miles.
I did change my "upstream" sensors, but did not notice much of a difference.
I would use only MOTORCRAFT brand.
If you do end up changing a sensor, I would replace them as a pair. They do slow down in switching speed as they age, and you want to have them switching pretty much at the same speed.
Again, they are NOT a high failure item. If the switching speed gets too slow, there is a failure code that will come up, lighting up your Check Engine Light. There are a lot of codes for the oxygen sensors that cover the types of failures, and tell you specifically the failure and the sensor that has the failure. For that reason, the "lean codes" (P0171 and P0174) are rarely caused by the sensors, but are just the sensors doing their job and reporting that the engine is running lean on one or more banks.
All 1996 and newer cars are required to be OBDII "complient"
What this means is, there is a plug under the dash...under the steering column that is the same on all 1996 and newer cars. If your check engine light comes on, you can go to many auto part stores, such as auto zone, and have them connect a generic code reader to that plug. They will get a readout of what the failure code is.
You will need to ask them for the actual numeric code, as most people would not know what to do with it. The reader will give a code and a description.
Such as.... P0304 "Misfire". Which is what I had once. I came home....looked up the code....and found that it was a Misfire on cylinder #4.
More information than they had given me. They told me to change the spark plugs and spark plug wires. I cleaned my EGR ports, which was the actual cause of the failure.
So, when you get the numeric code, you can do a search on this forum, and see what other windstar owners in the 1996 - 1998 vintage have had cause the code. You can also post a question with the code.
If you get failure codes P0171 and P0174, auto part store clerks often recommend changing the oxygen sensors, which rarely cure the problem.
Those codes are usually caused by a vaccum leak.
There is a TSB for these codes involving upper intake manifold bolt seals.....this TSB is ONLY for 1999 and newer. It does NOT apply to 1995 through 1998.
AIR FILTER
You should keep a clean air filter in there.
FORD dealer parts....at a good price from Millennium Ford in Seattle
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?siteid=214072
Auto Parts at good prices from Rock Auto
http://www.rockauto.com/
Some pictures from my repair projects which may be of help to you.
http://community.webshots.com/album/201931518cScpNK
wiswind
02-04-2006, 07:50 AM
I have seen the drain plug for the transmission pan at Rock Auto and Advance Auto Parts. I'm sure that it is available at many other stores as well.
The plugs require you to REMOVE the pan and drill a hole in the pan....and install the plug. You want to have the pan off.....and look carefully to make sure that the inside of the plug will clear the transmission parts when the pan is in place. I do not have a plug on mine at this time. But if I did, I would install it so that it was on the side of the pan....not sticking down from the bottom of the pan.
The plugs require you to REMOVE the pan and drill a hole in the pan....and install the plug. You want to have the pan off.....and look carefully to make sure that the inside of the plug will clear the transmission parts when the pan is in place. I do not have a plug on mine at this time. But if I did, I would install it so that it was on the side of the pan....not sticking down from the bottom of the pan.
jfl330
02-23-2006, 12:52 PM
Light lots of candles and pray.
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