95, 3.8, 175K mi. P0500 VSS

Hello everyone,

My faithful Windstar has popped its VSS. Or has burned the wire the wires going to it. I replaced it less than a year ago, while I had the exhaust manifold off the 1,2,3 head. Has anyone been able to replace this do-dad without removing that backside exhaust pipe? (I'm tempted to remove it with a 5' 3/8" extention through the drivers side wheel well) Anyone been here?

Karl

Let me elaborate,

I overhauled this car last year. I did a head job (myself), after first having the flywheel replaced, due to an ignition problem. As I was putting the heads back on, I noticed the heat shield was gone. I consulted the guy who did the flywheel, and they said it was gone when they did the job. (I believe them). So. Before I put the back exhaust manifold back on, I folded a pie pan around some fiberglass insulation, and mashed it overtop of a brand new Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS). Then I put the 1,2,3 exhaust manifold back on. I drove the van for 15K mi with no problems. Now I've got a P0500 code, and the van doesn't seem to know when to shift anymore. The VSS is easy to replace (1 bolt, 1 wire clip) but only when that 1,2,3 manifold is off. I am looking for a "slick" way to replace that puppy, without having to pull the rear Exhaust-pipe.

Karl

Let me elaborate,

I overhauled this car last year. I did a head job (myself), after first having the flywheel replaced, due to an ignition problem. As I was putting the heads back on, I noticed the heat shield was gone. I consulted the guy who did the flywheel, and they said it was gone when they did the job. (I believe them). So. Before I put the back exhaust manifold back on, I folded a pie pan around some fiberglass insulation, and mashed it overtop of a brand new Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS). Then I put the 1,2,3 exhaust manifold back on. I drove the van for 15K mi with no problems. Now I've got a P0500 code, and the van doesn't seem to know when to shift anymore. The VSS is easy to replace (1 bolt, 1 wire clip) but only when that 1,2,3 manifold is off. I am looking for a "slick" way to replace that puppy, without having to pull the rear Exhaust-pipe.

Karl

Karl
We're in the same boat. We both have 95's with high miles. Mine has just about 190,000 on it.

That speed sensor is a bugger to get at without removing something. I tried to replace it on my 93 Taurus with a 3.8. I didn't get it replaced. I put it in my Windstar when I did the headgasket job. It wasn't bad but I had things apart, it was sitting on the shelf.

I know I'm not giving you any good news here. I hope you are able to get it replaced.

Regards

Dan

It took 6 hrs to replace the VSS. Starting at 8:00 EST, I pulled the wiper motor off, the intake rubber pipe and the DFPE. I unscrew the EGR Pipe, and then drank a cup of coffee before getting down to business. I lifted the front left corner, crawled under and removed the 2 15 mm nuts holding the 1,2,3 Exhaust manifold to the cat pipe. Then, I placed a 3' long 2x10" on the intake plenum, and layed on it as I removed the 6 13mm bolts holding the exhaust manifold to the head. Once the exhaust manifold was free, I was able to pull it out completely, by shinnying it over the transaxle. I then removed the heat shield over the VSS, the 10mm Bolt that held it in the transaxle, and the clip that attached it to the speedo cable . . . Voila!! I tested the old (6 month) VSS as specified in the Haynes book, and sho nuff, she was shot. I tested the new one ($18 A-Zone), and re-assembled the whole mess. I just got back from a test drive. No more CEL, and the Cruise Control works again.
So, if YOU get a CEL, and the Cruise stops working, and the Code turns out to be P0500, just replace the Vehicle Speed Sensor, and you'll be in business!

Karl.

Alldata instructions have you working from under the vehicle
Unplug all 4 oxygen sensors.
Remove the complete "Y" pipe (includes both catalytic converters) to get to it.
Remove the transaxle heat shield.
There is a tool to install on the flex pipe assembly, Part # T94T-6000-AH , it is called "exhaust connector holder" and installs onto the flex pipe unit that is behind the "Y" pipe assembly.
This is to protect the flex joints from damage from too much flexing.
You put that on before removing the "Y" pipe.

So, as stated above, it is a LOT of work.
Anytime I have worked with any exhaust system, if something does not break, or otherwise go wrong, I feel blessed.
A good soaking of the bolts, such as the nuts holding the "Y" pipe to the exhaust manifold studs, and the bolts holding the back of the "Y" pipe to the front of the flex pipe is a good thing to do.
Also, be VERY careful about the oxygen sensors, on my '96, the rear most sensor connects into the back part of the rear most catalytic converter. VERY easy to have the sensor mounting ring break right out of the converter body. I had that happen, and was lucky that I was changing the "Y" pipe unit anyhow.

Wiswind, my chest is puffed out to here!! I thought this job would take the whole weekend. Truth be told though . . . when I lived in NY (almost 20 yrs ago), exhaust system work always involved cutting, discarding and replacing. But. Here in the warmer climes, nuthin ever rusts! You can still unscrew things. I go to dumps here to find car parts that I mail north.

Now, concerning that VSS. I don't think any good is served by having that thing mounted in such a "hot" spot. The original one I pullled is still fine. I replaced it only because I had access to it when I did the headgaskets. The "NEW" one I just pulled out is shot. I got it from NAPA. The one I just put in is from A-Zone. I just can't seem to find a place to buy quality (proven) parts anymore. OEM (Ford) seems to sell items for twice the price as AZone. NAPA sells the same stuff for 1 and a half times as much as AZone. Pep Boys, Advance and AZone are all managed by kids in their thirties, and run by teenagers, but, have the lowest prices. I am about to conclude that "all" aftermarket parts are manufactured in the Far East, and that you can buy parts from any seller, and that a brand name means squat anymore.

Karl