Our Community is 940,000 Strong. Join Us.


rpm rev on 98 l windstar


Jess70
01-26-2006, 08:25 AM
Hi, I have been reading the forums and noticed that quite a few people have had the same issues. This has only happened twice and both times the car had been either running for over and hour or at idle for a long time. The rpms seem to race from 2-3mph and then shift down hard but delayed directly after that I would let off the gas and the rpms would jump and then come down again and normal shifting. I had to go to a buy here pay here place and was bought as is. THe CEL light goes on and off haven't had the codes read. I am hoping to go into the garage with some type of idea of what to expect. I also need to find out if it is alright to run the car for short trips...only car...blah blah blah. Jess:banghead:

LeSabre97mint
01-26-2006, 12:05 PM
Hi, I have been reading the forums and noticed that quite a few people have had the same issues. This has only happened twice and both times the car had been either running for over and hour or at idle for a long time. The rpms seem to race from 2-3mph and then shift down hard but delayed directly after that I would let off the gas and the rpms would jump and then come down again and normal shifting. I had to go to a buy here pay here place and was bought as is. THe CEL light goes on and off haven't had the codes read. I am hoping to go into the garage with some type of idea of what to expect. I also need to find out if it is alright to run the car for short trips...only car...blah blah blah. Jess:banghead:

Jess

You may of read that AutoZone will put a computer on your car and read your codes for free. When you get your codes read, make sure you get the numbers that are stored. Write them down and post them here.

Regards

Dan

wiswind
01-26-2006, 08:52 PM
A common cause of problems with RPMs at idle is the IAC (Idle Control Valve).
This is located on top of the upper intake manifold.....next to the throttle body. It has an electrical connection....and is held on by 2 bolts.
I would try removing it....and spraying some SeaFoam "deep creep" into it to clean it...and lubricate it. You could also try WD-40...or other such oil-cleaner. If that does not free it up....you can try replacing it.

Another thing...at the low speeds......like when turning the wheels in a parking lot.....and the vehicle stalls.. The Power steering pressure switch can cause that. The pressure switch senses the higher pressure...and tells the PCM of the higher load on the engine...and the PCM compensates by opening the IAC to increase the RPMs.

If this is more relative to shifting......maybe the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)...or a transmission issue?.... Has the transmission fluid been changed as recommended?....every 30K miles for normal service.... 21K miles for "severe" service.

If the CEL is lit..... Have the codes read (autozone). and get the actual numeric code from them. You will have to ask for that.
You can post back with the code.....
Also, you can do a search on the code in this forum.

Jess70
01-28-2006, 09:38 AM
Is it recommended to change the ATF on the van if you don't have the vehicle history? I am uncertain of wether it had been done before. It certainly has not been done since I bought the van last summer. Jess

Jess70
01-28-2006, 11:14 AM
i have had the recommendation to try replacing the Transmission range sensor TSR> When I have called two auto part stores they don't have the part listed as that. Could it be called something else? Jess Neutral safety switch the same thing?

wiswind
01-28-2006, 11:34 AM
Neutral safety switch is the same thing.
I could not find it on autozone's website, but I know that they used to carry it. I had several different ones come up on www.partsamerica.com but I have found that their website sometimes does not line up with what they come up with in the store (Advance and Checker near me).

Another place to find parts, especially dealer only parts, is http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/index.cfm?siteid=214072
which is Millennium Ford in Seattle's online parts department.... They sell at discount...and have been very helpful.

I would certainly change the fluid. It is VERY critical to do that at LEAST every 30K miles (21K for severe service).
Make sure to get Mercon V (not just Mercon) rated fluid for your '98.
I have pictures of how I did mine....and changed the filter in my pictures it is toward the end of the pictures. http://community.webshots.com/album/201931518cScpNK

I would run at LEAST 15 quarts through to fully flush the 12.25 quart capacity unit. If you just change the fluid....not a hard job. Changing the filter is a VERY messy job. Changing the filter on the transmission is not as critical as on the engine oil. The transmission filter is not as fine a filter media. FORD does not specify to change the filter within 100K miles for my '96.... although that is longer than I would let it go. Changing the fluid IS critical.

Jess70
01-28-2006, 12:29 PM
Thanks for replying so quickly. I am going to have my husband track down that part and actually change it. My brother is a mechanic, (albeit an extremely busy one) and he will be doing the transmission fluid change. He did say that it is one of those things that has to be done correctly or not at all. You can't just trust anyone. Hopefully he can squeeze me in soon. I will have all my fingers and toes crossed that the trS SENSOR is the solution to my problem. Thanks!

wiswind
01-28-2006, 05:16 PM
Another item that people have posted that can fail is the speed sensor.
It is mounted on the side of the transmission from what I saw on the alldatadiy instructions.
The transmission is electronically controled. So when it starts getting bad information.....strange things start happening.

The real problem for the transmission is heat....the fluid gets hot and breaks down. I installed a auxillary cooler for mine. As you most likely have read, the transmission in the windstar (and most other minivans) is a car transmission.

Add your comment to this topic!