Block Heater
DRW1000
01-16-2006, 12:32 PM
I have a 99 Windstar that came with a factory installed block heater. I have tried to find information but I can not find very much. I checked the shop manuals, Chilton's, owner's manualect.... Does anyone know:
1) What the wattage is (or the current draw)
2) Is there a thermostat controlling it or does it run constantly?
1) What the wattage is (or the current draw)
2) Is there a thermostat controlling it or does it run constantly?
LeSabre97mint
01-17-2006, 07:31 AM
I have a 99 Windstar that came with a factory installed block heater. I have tried to find information but I can not find very much. I checked the shop manuals, Chilton's, owner's manualect.... Does anyone know:
1) What the wattage is (or the current draw)
2) Is there a thermostat controlling it or does it run constantly?
Drw
I don't know the wattage.
I do know that the heater has a thermostat to keep it from over heating. Where do you live that you need to plug in a Windstar? Unless it gets really cold (-20) I haven't had a need for one. Make sure your battery is good, use a good grade of 5w-30 oil change it every 3000.
Regards
Dan
1) What the wattage is (or the current draw)
2) Is there a thermostat controlling it or does it run constantly?
Drw
I don't know the wattage.
I do know that the heater has a thermostat to keep it from over heating. Where do you live that you need to plug in a Windstar? Unless it gets really cold (-20) I haven't had a need for one. Make sure your battery is good, use a good grade of 5w-30 oil change it every 3000.
Regards
Dan
wiswind
01-17-2006, 06:43 PM
I looked up the engine block heater in alldata for my '96 (cannot look at other years). It says nothing about current draw, or if it is thermostatically controled. It mounts into one of the freeze plugs on the engine block.
DRW1000
01-17-2006, 07:04 PM
Thanks for the replys.
I measured the current draw and it is about 4 amps. This works out to be about 450 Watts.
I live in Toronto where in January (although not this year) we can get -20 C. We have had above freezing for the most part but 2 nights ago it went to -10 and I am certain we will get some seasonal temperatures for a couple of weeks anyway.
I use Mobil synthetic mostly because of its low temperature properties.
I measured the current draw and it is about 4 amps. This works out to be about 450 Watts.
I live in Toronto where in January (although not this year) we can get -20 C. We have had above freezing for the most part but 2 nights ago it went to -10 and I am certain we will get some seasonal temperatures for a couple of weeks anyway.
I use Mobil synthetic mostly because of its low temperature properties.
LeSabre97mint
01-18-2006, 06:57 AM
I have a 99 Windstar that came with a factory installed block heater. I have tried to find information but I can not find very much. I checked the shop manuals, Chilton's, owner's manualect.... Does anyone know:
1) What the wattage is (or the current draw)
2) Is there a thermostat controlling it or does it run constantly?
Drw
Are you asking for the wattage so you know what size cord to run?
Regards
Dan
1) What the wattage is (or the current draw)
2) Is there a thermostat controlling it or does it run constantly?
Drw
Are you asking for the wattage so you know what size cord to run?
Regards
Dan
12Ounce
01-18-2006, 11:31 AM
I can find no reference to the engine block heater in the electrical diagrams. The shop manual shows only removal-installation, no specifications.
I understand there is a thermo-switch in the wiring pigtail. I have read somewhere else that the switching temperature is +40F. (???) I know the heater has never been very effective for me. I've considered shorting out the switch.
Some folks think that avoiding "cold starts", especially "very cold starts", saves some wear and tear on the engine.
I understand there is a thermo-switch in the wiring pigtail. I have read somewhere else that the switching temperature is +40F. (???) I know the heater has never been very effective for me. I've considered shorting out the switch.
Some folks think that avoiding "cold starts", especially "very cold starts", saves some wear and tear on the engine.
DRW1000
01-18-2006, 01:07 PM
Drw
Are you asking for the wattage so you know what size cord to run?
Regards
Dan
Dan,
Actually I was asking just for the economics of running it. I have it on a timer and I wonder what time I should have it come on. I only use it on very cold nights. I also wonder how much of the engine it actually warms. It is inside the coolant passages but I really want the oil to be a bit warmer. I don't even know if enopugh heat reaches the oil to make a difference.
Are you asking for the wattage so you know what size cord to run?
Regards
Dan
Dan,
Actually I was asking just for the economics of running it. I have it on a timer and I wonder what time I should have it come on. I only use it on very cold nights. I also wonder how much of the engine it actually warms. It is inside the coolant passages but I really want the oil to be a bit warmer. I don't even know if enopugh heat reaches the oil to make a difference.
wiswind
01-18-2006, 04:05 PM
I would guess that the theory is that coolant flows better than cold oil.
As the coolant next to the thermostat warms....It will rise...pulling colder coolant from lower in the block....spreading the heat throughout the block.
I am sure that it helps.......
I also found that the Mobil 1 synthetic oil was much better for those cold starts than non-synthetic.
As the coolant next to the thermostat warms....It will rise...pulling colder coolant from lower in the block....spreading the heat throughout the block.
I am sure that it helps.......
I also found that the Mobil 1 synthetic oil was much better for those cold starts than non-synthetic.
LeSabre97mint
01-18-2006, 05:49 PM
I can find no reference to the engine block heater in the electrical diagrams. The shop manual shows only removal-installation, no specifications.
I understand there is a thermo-switch in the wiring pigtail. I have read somewhere else that the switching temperature is +40F. (???) I know the heater has never been very effective for me. I've considered shorting out the switch.
Some folks think that avoiding "cold starts", especially "very cold starts", saves some wear and tear on the engine.
If you want more heat I would consider buying a magnetic heater that will stick to your oil pan. This will heat your oil too. You may have to remove it for driving.??
I wouldn't modify the heater. They're set up to run safely. I'm not sure if there is one for our vans that would put out more heat.
I can understand not wanting to spend more money than one has to on elec. I think a timer is a good idea.
I agree that a preheated engine will start easier and may not experience as much ware and tare.
Another option is to install a remote start that will start the engine with it cools down to a certain temp or to set it to start every few hours.
Have you see the heaters that are fueled with propane?
Regards
Dan
I understand there is a thermo-switch in the wiring pigtail. I have read somewhere else that the switching temperature is +40F. (???) I know the heater has never been very effective for me. I've considered shorting out the switch.
Some folks think that avoiding "cold starts", especially "very cold starts", saves some wear and tear on the engine.
If you want more heat I would consider buying a magnetic heater that will stick to your oil pan. This will heat your oil too. You may have to remove it for driving.??
I wouldn't modify the heater. They're set up to run safely. I'm not sure if there is one for our vans that would put out more heat.
I can understand not wanting to spend more money than one has to on elec. I think a timer is a good idea.
I agree that a preheated engine will start easier and may not experience as much ware and tare.
Another option is to install a remote start that will start the engine with it cools down to a certain temp or to set it to start every few hours.
Have you see the heaters that are fueled with propane?
Regards
Dan
DRW1000
01-18-2006, 09:44 PM
I can find no reference to the engine block heater in the electrical diagrams. The shop manual shows only removal-installation, no specifications.
I understand there is a thermo-switch in the wiring pigtail. I have read somewhere else that the switching temperature is +40F. (???) I know the heater has never been very effective for me. I've considered shorting out the switch.
Some folks think that avoiding "cold starts", especially "very cold starts", saves some wear and tear on the engine.
+40 sounds reasonable. I suppose it depends on the heat transfer within the coolant.
I like to use it on very cold nights. I am one of those who believe it helps reduce wear.
I would guess that the theory is that coolant flows better than cold oil.
As the coolant next to the thermostat warms....It will rise...pulling colder coolant from lower in the block....spreading the heat throughout the block.
I am sure that it helps.......
I also found that the Mobil 1 synthetic oil was much better for those cold starts than non-synthetic.
I agree "it can't hurt". I use the synthetic Mobil 1 year round too.
If you want more heat I would consider buying a magnetic heater that will stick to your oil pan. This will heat your oil too. You may have to remove it for driving.??
I wouldn't modify the heater. They're set up to run safely. I'm not sure if there is one for our vans that would put out more heat.
I can understand not wanting to spend more money than one has to on elec. I think a timer is a good idea.
I agree that a preheated engine will start easier and may not experience as much ware and tare.
Another option is to install a remote start that will start the engine with it cools down to a certain temp or to set it to start every few hours.
Have you see the heaters that are fueled with propane?
Regards
Dan
Haven't seen the propane ones yet. Actually I assume the factory heater helps in places where -30-40 nights are enjoyed............. so my -20 C requirements should be fine.
I guess what I was really trying to figure out is how long it takes ro reach a steady state temperare. If it only takes 4 hours then leaving it on for 8 is a waste of energy. If it reaches +40 quickly (and I think that it may be able, assuming the sampling point is close to the heating element) then I need to find my optimun turn-on time.
Thanks for the ideas
I understand there is a thermo-switch in the wiring pigtail. I have read somewhere else that the switching temperature is +40F. (???) I know the heater has never been very effective for me. I've considered shorting out the switch.
Some folks think that avoiding "cold starts", especially "very cold starts", saves some wear and tear on the engine.
+40 sounds reasonable. I suppose it depends on the heat transfer within the coolant.
I like to use it on very cold nights. I am one of those who believe it helps reduce wear.
I would guess that the theory is that coolant flows better than cold oil.
As the coolant next to the thermostat warms....It will rise...pulling colder coolant from lower in the block....spreading the heat throughout the block.
I am sure that it helps.......
I also found that the Mobil 1 synthetic oil was much better for those cold starts than non-synthetic.
I agree "it can't hurt". I use the synthetic Mobil 1 year round too.
If you want more heat I would consider buying a magnetic heater that will stick to your oil pan. This will heat your oil too. You may have to remove it for driving.??
I wouldn't modify the heater. They're set up to run safely. I'm not sure if there is one for our vans that would put out more heat.
I can understand not wanting to spend more money than one has to on elec. I think a timer is a good idea.
I agree that a preheated engine will start easier and may not experience as much ware and tare.
Another option is to install a remote start that will start the engine with it cools down to a certain temp or to set it to start every few hours.
Have you see the heaters that are fueled with propane?
Regards
Dan
Haven't seen the propane ones yet. Actually I assume the factory heater helps in places where -30-40 nights are enjoyed............. so my -20 C requirements should be fine.
I guess what I was really trying to figure out is how long it takes ro reach a steady state temperare. If it only takes 4 hours then leaving it on for 8 is a waste of energy. If it reaches +40 quickly (and I think that it may be able, assuming the sampling point is close to the heating element) then I need to find my optimun turn-on time.
Thanks for the ideas
labrite
01-19-2006, 11:32 AM
-Don't worry about plugging in your block heater if you live in Toronto. It doesn't get cold enough to warrant it. I live just up the 401 in Trenton and I've never had a start probelm on my Van. When I lived in Labrador, there you need to plug in or forget it.
Save yourself the electricty. It just doesn't get cold enough in TO.
Save yourself the electricty. It just doesn't get cold enough in TO.
rodeo02
01-21-2006, 08:01 PM
I have a 99 Windstar that came with a factory installed block heater...
Must be a Canadian thing!:cheers: My 2001 LX was a lease return from Mississauga. A truck load of them worked their way over the boarder to Buffalo. I didn't notice the nifty spring loaded cap for the block heater until the first time I washed it:uhoh: . I plugged it in once to see my garage lights dim a bit. That was the last time I used it!
G/luck
Joel
Must be a Canadian thing!:cheers: My 2001 LX was a lease return from Mississauga. A truck load of them worked their way over the boarder to Buffalo. I didn't notice the nifty spring loaded cap for the block heater until the first time I washed it:uhoh: . I plugged it in once to see my garage lights dim a bit. That was the last time I used it!
G/luck
Joel
DRW1000
01-21-2006, 08:27 PM
Must be a Canadian thing!:cheers: My 2001 LX was a lease return from Mississauga. A truck load of them worked their way over the boarder to Buffalo. I didn't notice the nifty spring loaded cap for the block heater until the first time I washed it:uhoh: . I plugged it in once to see my garage lights dim a bit. That was the last time I used it!
G/luck
Joel
I think it was just a Canadian thing. Daytime running lights as well.
G/luck
Joel
I think it was just a Canadian thing. Daytime running lights as well.
rodeo02
01-21-2006, 10:32 PM
Yep. Got the DRL's too! I often wondered if they had to do any mods to the dash- KPH to MPH, etc.. Was probably a plug 'n play thing to get the digital ODO to convert to miles.
Joel
Joel
Medea
11-30-2006, 08:08 AM
Could one of you Windstar owners answer a question for me please.
I just bought a 2001 and today is really cold out...i was going to plug in the block heater but i can't find the cord. I can't imagine i would have bought a vehicle in Manitoba that doesn't have a block heater!
I just bought a 2001 and today is really cold out...i was going to plug in the block heater but i can't find the cord. I can't imagine i would have bought a vehicle in Manitoba that doesn't have a block heater!
Doug360
11-30-2006, 09:12 AM
Could one of you Windstar owners answer a question for me please.
I just bought a 2001 and today is really cold out...i was going to plug in the block heater but i can't find the cord. I can't imagine i would have bought a vehicle in Manitoba that doesn't have a block heater!
There is a spring loaded cap in the lower part of the grill towards the left side. Kind of a neat idea but it can be awkward to use.
I just bought a 2001 and today is really cold out...i was going to plug in the block heater but i can't find the cord. I can't imagine i would have bought a vehicle in Manitoba that doesn't have a block heater!
There is a spring loaded cap in the lower part of the grill towards the left side. Kind of a neat idea but it can be awkward to use.
phil-l
12-01-2006, 06:29 AM
The OEM Windstar block heater hookup isn't a cord; it's a male electrical connector within a small, covered box. Yes, it's a cool idea (protects the connection well when not in use), but a little hard to get to.
pitteach
12-01-2006, 04:33 PM
Assuming that your Windstar has a factory block heater, it will not have a cord. Under the front bumper you would see a black cap. Open the cap and see that there is a three pronged male end of an electrical inlet. You would hook up the female end of an extension cord to this inlet for the heater. It seems like only the Canadian versions of the Windstar have these. I know my van was brought over the border from the Toronto area. I found the plug by accident and didn't know what it was until I asked on this forum. I have never found a reason to use it, even in chilly Buffalo.
rodeo02
12-01-2006, 06:53 PM
..I know my van was brought over the border from the Toronto area...
Hey same here pitteach! Mine was a lease return from Mississauga if I remember correctly. Bought it from Towne Ford/autochoice 3yrs ago.
Joel
Hey same here pitteach! Mine was a lease return from Mississauga if I remember correctly. Bought it from Towne Ford/autochoice 3yrs ago.
Joel
road_rascal
12-04-2006, 07:53 AM
I use the block heater on my '01 all the time when it gets colder than +30F outside. I no longer have the garage space (3 bikes and one car occupy the space) plus I only drive 7 miles one way to work. I'd rather pay the few extra bucks in electricity and have a warm van.
ogre73
01-31-2007, 10:42 AM
Hello. With the recent cold weather we have been having here in Maine, I had an issue starting my van yesterday. I got the relay clicking to send the juice to the starter, but the starter wouldn't turn. While cleaning all of the connections to ensure that wasn't the problem (it seems to have been, by the way), I noticed that the block heater cord is actually attached to the starter motor. Does this sound right to anyone? Could anyone confirm this? I would like to start using it, but I want to make sure that I don't do something bad to the van.
Also, what do I use for this, just a standard extension cord from a wall outlet to the heater plug?
Thanks.
Ogre
Also, what do I use for this, just a standard extension cord from a wall outlet to the heater plug?
Thanks.
Ogre
DRW1000
02-07-2007, 09:16 PM
Hello. With the recent cold weather we have been having here in Maine, I had an issue starting my van yesterday. I got the relay clicking to send the juice to the starter, but the starter wouldn't turn. While cleaning all of the connections to ensure that wasn't the problem (it seems to have been, by the way), I noticed that the block heater cord is actually attached to the starter motor. Does this sound right to anyone? Could anyone confirm this? I would like to start using it, but I want to make sure that I don't do something bad to the van.
Also, what do I use for this, just a standard extension cord from a wall outlet to the heater plug?
Thanks.
Ogre
Make sure you get a cord that can handle the current draw. The thicker (lower AWG) the better, especially for longer cords. Buy one that can handle the temperatures too - an outdoor extension cord. The insulation can crack in a cord and damage the wire, not to mention the shock hazzard, if it wasn't intended for cold.
Lastly make sure it can fit in the socket (assuming your van has this arrangment)
Also, what do I use for this, just a standard extension cord from a wall outlet to the heater plug?
Thanks.
Ogre
Make sure you get a cord that can handle the current draw. The thicker (lower AWG) the better, especially for longer cords. Buy one that can handle the temperatures too - an outdoor extension cord. The insulation can crack in a cord and damage the wire, not to mention the shock hazzard, if it wasn't intended for cold.
Lastly make sure it can fit in the socket (assuming your van has this arrangment)
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