leaking bypass hose

My 99 windstar is leaking coolant from what appear to be some sort of bypass hose. It is located on top of the block on the drivers side. It is buried in there pretty good below the throttle body, behind the EGR valve and some other things. I can see the coolant squirting out. It appears to be a small part , but I can't be certain. Does anyone know the part I am describing? Is it difficult to replace? Is it a by pass hose? Thanks

Thing are arranged a little different on my '96.
On my '96, the heater hose is the only little hose that I can think of that would be on the driver's side.

The upper radiator hose connects to the housing for the thermostat.

Keeping in mind that my pictures are from my '96, I have several that show a little closer look in there with the air intake removed.

http://community.webshots.com/album/201931518cScpNK

On my 2000 Windstar 3.8, there are two hoses beneath the throttle body: The larger attaches to the thermostat housing. The smaller hose goes to the heater (both cores, if your Windstar has rear heat).

The smaller hose uses a plastic push-on connection that depends on two O-rings to complete the seal. When I recently changed engine coolant, I removed this connection and discovered lots of crud around the O-rings. I suspect the connection at your O-rings is leaking. You'll need to remove the plastic connector (be careful not to break a tab), clean everything up, and likely replace the O-rings (there's a plastic spacer between the two rings; don't lose it).

On my 2000 Windstar 3.8, there are two hoses beneath the throttle body: The larger attaches to the thermostat housing. The smaller hose goes to the heater (both cores, if your Windstar has rear heat).

The smaller hose uses a plastic push-on connection that depends on two O-rings to complete the seal. When I recently changed engine coolant, I removed this connection and discovered lots of crud around the O-rings. I suspect the connection at your O-rings is leaking. You'll need to remove the plastic connector (be careful not to break a tab), clean everything up, and likely replace the O-rings (there's a plastic spacer between the two rings; don't lose it).


It appears difficult to get to ...how do I remove the hose?

Actually, it's not that tough to get to. Remove the air filter assembly for access. I was replacing the thermostat, so that gave me extra clearance. If you believe your thermostat is original, I'd replace it while you're in there. My thermostat was sticking all the way open, overcooling the engine. The temp gauge would barely move off the low mark and the heater didn't work well.

There are two plastic tabs (I believe they're on the retainer shown in the diagram linked below) that hold the fitting in place. They need to be (gently) pressed back to release the fitting. In my case, I had twist the fitting back and forth to loosen it up before it would slide off.

Here's a diagram of what it looks like:

http://groups.msn.com/FordWindstar/shoebox.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=34

Note that there are two O-rings. One of mine stayed inside the fitting when I slid it off; thankfully, I noticed it. Also note the plastic spacer between the two rings.

The metal tube that the fitting slides on to was pretty cruddy on my Windstar. I cleaned it up really well and used dielectric grease on the O-rings during reassembly.

There are kits available (O'Reilly's, etc) for replacing these quick-disconnects if needed. I failed to do this, even tho I thought something was wrong ... the disconnect popped loose, and I nearly lost my engine due to overheating.

The leak is definitley coming from the by pass hose. The hose appears to go from the top of the intake manifold, goes underneath the upper intake (black plastic piece) and continus to the other side of the engin and connects to another hose which appears to go to the heater core. Where the piece connects to the manifold, is very difficult to get to, how does the piece attach to the manifold? How do I change the part. Thanks

If you take a look in a Haynes manual, chapter 11 - section 28, you will see how to remove the cowl cover. This makes the space behind the engine more accessible.

In preparing to do the 'Leckemby' process for the isolator bolts issue I have discovered what the bypass hose is all about. This is the culprit that was leaking for me a year or so ago and I managed to patch the hole with JB weld. Now the question would be, since I am doing the Isolator bolts, should I go ahead and replace the bypass/crossover - hose/tube even though it has held strong? If so, is it a simple matter of removing the two bolts, or will it get much more involved? Also, how imperative is the 'reprogramming' of the PCM as referred in the TSB, as opposed to just clearing codes? I am so hoping this will finally clear the CEL codes. I've replaced the light once because it burned out!

As I remember, the quick connect "repair kit" that you will need is for a 3/4" unit.
You can also get them from the dealer.
The nylon part with the tabs can become brittle with age and heat cycles......so it is not uncommon for them to need replacement.

Does this quick connector "repair kit" also comes with clamps to replace the factory crush clamp that is on the hose?

The repair kit is NOT the complete connector.
It is only the nylon "clip" insert that is inside the connector.
Make sure to have the "O" ring gaskets in place.....or it will leak.
Maybe it would be quick for someone who works with them all the time....but to me......it takes the "quick" out of connector versus just a clamp on the hose.

The repair kit is NOT the complete connector.
It is only the nylon "clip" insert that is inside the connector.
Make sure to have the "O" ring gaskets in place.....or it will leak.
Maybe it would be quick for someone who works with them all the time....but to me......it takes the "quick" out of connector versus just a clamp on the hose.

Stealership got me for $60 smackers for the entire heater hose/quick connector. Doh!

Well.....when doing my lower intake manifold gaskets.....I ran into problems with the "quick" connector......and just cut the whole connector off.......bent a bracket very slightly to make the hose fit.....and used a regular hose clamp on the hose....which I had just slid up over the pipe on the lower intake manifold.
It was a "temporary" fix.........which has been in place for 2 years.
I had read about several experiences like 12Ounce had.....and decided that I feel more comfortable with my "temporary" fix being permanent than the "quick" connector.

I was about to do that but was uncomfortable with the idea of the hose clamp thinking why didn't the manufacturer do that in the first place? What size clamps did you use?

I was about to do that but was uncomfortable with the idea of the hose clamp thinking why didn't the manufacturer do that in the first place? What size clamps did you use?

I did it! Re-assembled everything last night and drove it around for most of the day and it is holding up. (Knock on wood!) I feel much better having that hose clamp versus the quick connect the factory used. I wonder why they did that any ways? Oh well, it's on and now it's at EF1 Motorsports in Signal Hill getting the new KYB shocks I bought from Tire Rack. Thanks again!

You can imagine how easy it is to hook that connection on the assembly line ... that's why they use it, I believe. Sure makes it difficult for the rest of us.