2000 Windstar 3.8L Transmission Shaft Seal Replacement
OldFaithful
01-09-2006, 05:15 PM
I need to change the drive shaft seals in the transmission on my 2000 Windstar with 140,000+ miles one it and I have a couple of questions knowing that some of you have done this before. I came up empty on a forum search for previous posts.
You do have to remove the drive shaft from the vehicle.
Do you need a puller to get the wheel hub off of the drive shaft after you remove the spindle nut?
And do you need a puller to get the old seal out of the tranny?
And do you need anything to help put the new seal back into the tranny?
Ford seems to want $600 a vehicle to replace both the right and left seals and a local garage wants $140 to do both. Ford wants 2 hours per axil and the local garage says it will take and hour and a half to do both.
Thanks in advance for your response.
Jim
You do have to remove the drive shaft from the vehicle.
Do you need a puller to get the wheel hub off of the drive shaft after you remove the spindle nut?
And do you need a puller to get the old seal out of the tranny?
And do you need anything to help put the new seal back into the tranny?
Ford seems to want $600 a vehicle to replace both the right and left seals and a local garage wants $140 to do both. Ford wants 2 hours per axil and the local garage says it will take and hour and a half to do both.
Thanks in advance for your response.
Jim
LeSabre97mint
01-09-2006, 05:57 PM
I need to change the drive shaft seals in the transmission on my 2000 Windstar with 140,000+ miles one it and I have a couple of questions knowing that some of you have done this before. I came up empty on a forum search for previous posts.
You do have to remove the drive shaft from the vehicle.
Do you need a puller to get the wheel hub off of the drive shaft after you remove the spindle nut?
And do you need a puller to get the old seal out of the tranny?
And do you need anything to help put the new seal back into the tranny?
Ford seems to want $600 a vehicle to replace both the right and left seals and a local garage wants $140 to do both. Ford wants 2 hours per axil and the local garage says it will take and hour and a half to do both.
Thanks in advance for your response.
Jim
Jim
140.00 sounds like a good deal. Here's what involved to replace the seals. You need to get the axel out of the trannie. The lower balljoint needs to be removed from the steering yoke (lack of a better term) and the axel can then be pulled out of the trannie. (You could pull the axle out of the bearing but then you would need a new nut and retorque it.)
Make sure you have something to hold the hub out from the vehical so you can 'pop' the axel out of the trannie. I've lifted the car on one side at a time so the fluid doesn't run out. You'll need something to pry the old seal out. I went to a hardware store with my new seals and found pipe/pipe fittings the fit the size of the seal to drive them in. Make sure they start streight and are driven in streight. Make sure you put some trannie fluid on sealsto lube them before you put the axel back in. It will be helpful to have another person helping you.
I've may of left something out. Is the 140.00 sounding better?
Regards
Dan
You do have to remove the drive shaft from the vehicle.
Do you need a puller to get the wheel hub off of the drive shaft after you remove the spindle nut?
And do you need a puller to get the old seal out of the tranny?
And do you need anything to help put the new seal back into the tranny?
Ford seems to want $600 a vehicle to replace both the right and left seals and a local garage wants $140 to do both. Ford wants 2 hours per axil and the local garage says it will take and hour and a half to do both.
Thanks in advance for your response.
Jim
Jim
140.00 sounds like a good deal. Here's what involved to replace the seals. You need to get the axel out of the trannie. The lower balljoint needs to be removed from the steering yoke (lack of a better term) and the axel can then be pulled out of the trannie. (You could pull the axle out of the bearing but then you would need a new nut and retorque it.)
Make sure you have something to hold the hub out from the vehical so you can 'pop' the axel out of the trannie. I've lifted the car on one side at a time so the fluid doesn't run out. You'll need something to pry the old seal out. I went to a hardware store with my new seals and found pipe/pipe fittings the fit the size of the seal to drive them in. Make sure they start streight and are driven in streight. Make sure you put some trannie fluid on sealsto lube them before you put the axel back in. It will be helpful to have another person helping you.
I've may of left something out. Is the 140.00 sounding better?
Regards
Dan
OldFaithful
01-09-2006, 07:08 PM
Wow! Sounds like if you drop the bottom ball joint the shaft will move out enough to change the seal. Is that correct?
I figured on something to drive the new seals home and keep them straight. Since I have not one, but two of these cars to service, I'll probably do it myself if my perception of your comments are correct.
Thanks loads.
I figured on something to drive the new seals home and keep them straight. Since I have not one, but two of these cars to service, I'll probably do it myself if my perception of your comments are correct.
Thanks loads.
12Ounce
01-09-2006, 07:56 PM
There is a seal-install kit that you may need to obtain ... perhaps thru a tool rental service such as AutoZone or O'Reilly's has.
It amounts to nothing more than a selection of various diameter alum discs with a fit-all handle that mounts in the center holes of discs. With this kit, you select a disc that is just the right dia that allows you to tap the seal in place ... without bending/distorting the seal.
It amounts to nothing more than a selection of various diameter alum discs with a fit-all handle that mounts in the center holes of discs. With this kit, you select a disc that is just the right dia that allows you to tap the seal in place ... without bending/distorting the seal.
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