2001 Windstar Power Seat Disfunctional
Dirk Albring
01-04-2006, 09:05 PM
Anyone ever experience the driver side power seat totally quit on them? Nothing about it works from the left side controls. The lumbar support button works on the right side of the seat. The fuse is good and the wires seem to be OK. Does anyone have a wiring diagram/schematic for this make and year power seat? Thanks.
LeSabre97mint
01-04-2006, 10:34 PM
Anyone ever experience the driver side power seat totally quit on them? Nothing about it works from the left side controls. The lumbar support button works on the right side of the seat. The fuse is good and the wires seem to be OK. Does anyone have a wiring diagram/schematic for this make and year power seat? Thanks.
Dirk
Sorry no diagram here. Have you checked if you have power to the switch? When the switch is moved does power go through it?
Regards
Dan
Dirk
Sorry no diagram here. Have you checked if you have power to the switch? When the switch is moved does power go through it?
Regards
Dan
Dirk Albring
01-05-2006, 10:50 AM
Hey Dan. Thanks for the response. Haven't really dug into it much to look for power at connectors. Without a wiring diagram I am kind of hestitant with so many wires running under my seat. I'll do that at some point. Maybe my local Ford dealership can give me a drawing.
OldFaithful
01-17-2006, 01:03 PM
I am just starting to trouble shoot my left front power seat. It is blowing the 40 amp fuse (number 104 in the mail fuse box out front). The wiring is pretty simple. A hot wire from that fuse brings power out to the left from control module and is distributed to the three motors from there. The Rear Vertical, the Front vertical and the horizontal motors. The right front seat has another 40 Amp fuse for it.
The Ford manual first checks for power at he connector at that control module that is on the outboard side of your front seat and in my case there is power good enough to take out a 40 Amp fuse. We only have 15 amp circuits in our houses for normal lighting etc so 40 Amps is a lot of power and you can activate all three motors at the same time with that switch arrangement in the control module.
Ford checks for power and that fuse, then the switch functions, then the seat track which is mechanical and then "circuitry".
Don't set of the side airbags. Good luck. I'm just digging into mine.
The Ford manual first checks for power at he connector at that control module that is on the outboard side of your front seat and in my case there is power good enough to take out a 40 Amp fuse. We only have 15 amp circuits in our houses for normal lighting etc so 40 Amps is a lot of power and you can activate all three motors at the same time with that switch arrangement in the control module.
Ford checks for power and that fuse, then the switch functions, then the seat track which is mechanical and then "circuitry".
Don't set of the side airbags. Good luck. I'm just digging into mine.
OldFaithful
01-17-2006, 01:36 PM
Upps. Sorry. I forgot. Mine is a 2000 model and yours a 2001. I have no idea how similiar they are but I'd be surprised if they differ much at all.
jgattian
01-17-2006, 03:50 PM
Per the 2001 Ford Repair Manual;
Power seat inoperative - driver seat
Posssible sources;
1. Fuse
2. Seat regulator control switch.
3. Circuity.
Pinpoint Test A;
Raise the seat to its highest position, then move and tilt the seat to its most forward position.
Unplug the harness from the seat switch.
A1. Measure the voltage on the harness side pin H and ground. Looking at the conector, the top of the conector is where the latch is. The pins are labled from left to right, top to bottom. A B C D top row. E F G H bottom row. So pin H is the bottom right hand pin. The voltage should be greater than 10 volts. If voltage is less that 10 volts repair circuit. If correct voltage is present then go to A2.
A2. Measure the resitance between the harness side pin E and ground. The resistance should be greater than 5 ohms. If not repair the circuit. If less than 5 ohms carry out seat control switch component test.
It then refers you to wiring diagrams which I do not have to check the switch. At least this check will let you know if you have power to the switch.
Power seat inoperative - driver seat
Posssible sources;
1. Fuse
2. Seat regulator control switch.
3. Circuity.
Pinpoint Test A;
Raise the seat to its highest position, then move and tilt the seat to its most forward position.
Unplug the harness from the seat switch.
A1. Measure the voltage on the harness side pin H and ground. Looking at the conector, the top of the conector is where the latch is. The pins are labled from left to right, top to bottom. A B C D top row. E F G H bottom row. So pin H is the bottom right hand pin. The voltage should be greater than 10 volts. If voltage is less that 10 volts repair circuit. If correct voltage is present then go to A2.
A2. Measure the resitance between the harness side pin E and ground. The resistance should be greater than 5 ohms. If not repair the circuit. If less than 5 ohms carry out seat control switch component test.
It then refers you to wiring diagrams which I do not have to check the switch. At least this check will let you know if you have power to the switch.
OldFaithful
01-17-2006, 07:52 PM
I dug the left seat control module out of my 2000 Windstar, checked it, found it faulty, replaced it, and now the seat works just fine. The module cost $32 plus tax at my Ford Parts counter.
The first step is to check the fuse 104 in the battery fuse box up front under the hood. My fuse was removed, so I did not disconnect the battery. It is a bear to get that cover off of that fuse box. My fuse had blown and I was looking for the reason it had blown.
Next you have to get at the control module and the electrical connector behind it to test it so loosen the plastic trim around the top side of the left seat bottom to get access to them. Pull the trim away at the top left front of the left seat bottom and you can just see a threaded fastener with a hex fitting molded into it and the threads disappear into the seat. Use a 8 mm open end wrench to back that fastener all of the way out. I had to hold the fitting that the threads go into from the back side with pliers to keep it from turning. When it is loose, you can pull that trim out a couple of inches. The switches (control module) are mounted to the back side of this trim. The electrical connecter is now accessible. On the right side of that connecter is a black flat area. Use your ball point pen or other blunt non conducting "tool" to push that flat black area in towards the middle of the connector. That releases the catch and you can pull the connecter away from the module. If you need a little more wiggle room in this trim, you can loosen or remove an attaching screw on the bottom of the back side of this trim. I is a torx fitting on my seat.
Next check the connecter that attaches to the control module. Pin 8 should have more than 10 volts on it ALL OF THE TIME provided your battery is connected. Looking into the connecter from the side OPPOSITE of the locking tab, the pin closest and to the right is pin 8. If the voltage is not there, maybe that fuse up front isn't as good as you thought. If the fuse is blown, you need to find the reason for it before you toast another one.
If that checks out, remove the control module from the trim. The outside handle of this switch is removed by pulling it away from the switch. Note the notches position. There is a right and wrong way to try to put this back on the switch. Remove two phillips screws from the back of the module to get the module loose from the trim.
Next you want to test the switches in that module. I found one of mine bad. I asked my Ford Parts man if they replace many of these and he just smiled and said I always have some on hand. Orient the control module such that the slot in the connecter is towards you and the eight terminals inside it are as follows. Left to right on the bottom row A B C D and left to right on the top row E F G H. They are labeled down in there.
Each of the three switches operate the same way internally. They each have double wipers that move from a center position to one side or the other. Imagine that your windshield wipers have failed with both of them straight up the windshield and that in the middle of the windshield is a sheet of copper just wide enough for both wipers to rest on it, and this copper conductor is connected to the battery ground. The wipers just sit on this ground so when they move, one wiper will remain on this ground in the middle while the other one moves off of and away from the ground and eventually touch the battery power terminal out on the edge. The wipers move one way the motor turns one way, and the wipers move the opposite direction and that motor turns in the opposite direction. Got that!
Terminals A and D are for front vertical motor, B and C for the rear vertical motor, and F and G are for the horizontal motor. Remember that each one has a wiper connected to each terminal for each switch. Terminal E is the battery ground and terminal H is the battery hot terminal. All of the wipers are at rest sitting on ground. They should all show low or no resistance (a short) to ground or terminal E and to each other. Check them all: A and D, B and C, F and G. They all should be shorted or connected together and to the ground terminal E. If not, it is a faulty switch.
Next connect the ohm meter to a switch pair e.g. A and D. The meter should show a low resistance (a short) and while holding everything steady, move that switch. Now wiper A or D will move off of the ground and the meter should show a high resistance or open between those terminals. Check the other two pairs B and C, F and G in the same way. My B and C terminals did not change when I moved the switch meaning that when one wiper found the hot terminal, the juice went straight to ground and blew the fuse. If one of these pairs doesn't show open when you activated the switch, you have a faulty switch.
Next check each pair of the terminals looking for a short or low resistance to terminal H when the switch is activated fully by your hand. One of that pair should show a short to the H terminal as you move the switch one direction and the other of that pair should short to E terminal when the switch is moved the opposite direction. If you find one terminal that will not connect to terminal E, you have a faulty switch.
By now you are ready to reinstall. Attach the control module to the back of the trim with the two phillips screws and then plugin the electrical connector. Remember that screw fitting on the left front corner that took so long to get out? It goes back in with the palm of your hand. Just locate it in the hole in the metal frame of the seat and push. If you loosened that torx screw on the bottom in the back, you'll want to put that back in. Unless you loose a screw it takes 5 minutes tops to reassemble.
The tools I used were a 8 mm open end wrench, a quarter inch ratchet drive for the torx fitting, and a close quarters (short) phillips screw driver, needle nose pliers and of course a volt ohm meter and my ball point pen in the retracted position.
I hope this helps.
Regards,
Jim
The first step is to check the fuse 104 in the battery fuse box up front under the hood. My fuse was removed, so I did not disconnect the battery. It is a bear to get that cover off of that fuse box. My fuse had blown and I was looking for the reason it had blown.
Next you have to get at the control module and the electrical connector behind it to test it so loosen the plastic trim around the top side of the left seat bottom to get access to them. Pull the trim away at the top left front of the left seat bottom and you can just see a threaded fastener with a hex fitting molded into it and the threads disappear into the seat. Use a 8 mm open end wrench to back that fastener all of the way out. I had to hold the fitting that the threads go into from the back side with pliers to keep it from turning. When it is loose, you can pull that trim out a couple of inches. The switches (control module) are mounted to the back side of this trim. The electrical connecter is now accessible. On the right side of that connecter is a black flat area. Use your ball point pen or other blunt non conducting "tool" to push that flat black area in towards the middle of the connector. That releases the catch and you can pull the connecter away from the module. If you need a little more wiggle room in this trim, you can loosen or remove an attaching screw on the bottom of the back side of this trim. I is a torx fitting on my seat.
Next check the connecter that attaches to the control module. Pin 8 should have more than 10 volts on it ALL OF THE TIME provided your battery is connected. Looking into the connecter from the side OPPOSITE of the locking tab, the pin closest and to the right is pin 8. If the voltage is not there, maybe that fuse up front isn't as good as you thought. If the fuse is blown, you need to find the reason for it before you toast another one.
If that checks out, remove the control module from the trim. The outside handle of this switch is removed by pulling it away from the switch. Note the notches position. There is a right and wrong way to try to put this back on the switch. Remove two phillips screws from the back of the module to get the module loose from the trim.
Next you want to test the switches in that module. I found one of mine bad. I asked my Ford Parts man if they replace many of these and he just smiled and said I always have some on hand. Orient the control module such that the slot in the connecter is towards you and the eight terminals inside it are as follows. Left to right on the bottom row A B C D and left to right on the top row E F G H. They are labeled down in there.
Each of the three switches operate the same way internally. They each have double wipers that move from a center position to one side or the other. Imagine that your windshield wipers have failed with both of them straight up the windshield and that in the middle of the windshield is a sheet of copper just wide enough for both wipers to rest on it, and this copper conductor is connected to the battery ground. The wipers just sit on this ground so when they move, one wiper will remain on this ground in the middle while the other one moves off of and away from the ground and eventually touch the battery power terminal out on the edge. The wipers move one way the motor turns one way, and the wipers move the opposite direction and that motor turns in the opposite direction. Got that!
Terminals A and D are for front vertical motor, B and C for the rear vertical motor, and F and G are for the horizontal motor. Remember that each one has a wiper connected to each terminal for each switch. Terminal E is the battery ground and terminal H is the battery hot terminal. All of the wipers are at rest sitting on ground. They should all show low or no resistance (a short) to ground or terminal E and to each other. Check them all: A and D, B and C, F and G. They all should be shorted or connected together and to the ground terminal E. If not, it is a faulty switch.
Next connect the ohm meter to a switch pair e.g. A and D. The meter should show a low resistance (a short) and while holding everything steady, move that switch. Now wiper A or D will move off of the ground and the meter should show a high resistance or open between those terminals. Check the other two pairs B and C, F and G in the same way. My B and C terminals did not change when I moved the switch meaning that when one wiper found the hot terminal, the juice went straight to ground and blew the fuse. If one of these pairs doesn't show open when you activated the switch, you have a faulty switch.
Next check each pair of the terminals looking for a short or low resistance to terminal H when the switch is activated fully by your hand. One of that pair should show a short to the H terminal as you move the switch one direction and the other of that pair should short to E terminal when the switch is moved the opposite direction. If you find one terminal that will not connect to terminal E, you have a faulty switch.
By now you are ready to reinstall. Attach the control module to the back of the trim with the two phillips screws and then plugin the electrical connector. Remember that screw fitting on the left front corner that took so long to get out? It goes back in with the palm of your hand. Just locate it in the hole in the metal frame of the seat and push. If you loosened that torx screw on the bottom in the back, you'll want to put that back in. Unless you loose a screw it takes 5 minutes tops to reassemble.
The tools I used were a 8 mm open end wrench, a quarter inch ratchet drive for the torx fitting, and a close quarters (short) phillips screw driver, needle nose pliers and of course a volt ohm meter and my ball point pen in the retracted position.
I hope this helps.
Regards,
Jim
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