using model masters metalizer

I recently bought a few metalizer laquers (both buffing and non-buffing) and i was wondering how to go about using them?

What exactly does "buffing" and "non-buffing" mean. I know it has something to do with the finish, does buffing just mean using polishing compound?

Anything else i should know about MM metalizer paints?

need an airbrush

i have a Paasche VL

I never heard non buffing

so (like in your bottle's instructions) just spry trought AB, paint is already thinned, do a couple or three layer

wait 10/15 mins, paint become almost matt

buff with a soft cloth, cotton, ecc: tone should become pretty "true metal look":)

seal with modelmaster sealer

after you could carefully done some washing/drybrushing

this's what i know, non-buffing seem to me like a normal metalized color, so I think it's need to be clearcoated like all metalized.

just try, good luck

just a little thing: warning for metalizer smell: awesome :evillol: so turn on your sprayboot&run

As gionc said, spray buffing metalizers and let dry, use a soft cloth to buff the finish.

Non buffing require just that, no buffing.

Using the metalizer sealer on either will greatly diminish the metal sheen. It's recommended that you only use the sealer in areas where the finished model will be handled. Since the uses of metalizers in automotive subjects are rarely handled, you can forego the sealer. It's really meant for finishes used on aircraft where handling is usually done on the fuselage and such.

As gionc said, spray buffing metalizers and let dry, use a soft cloth to buff the finish.

Non buffing require just that, no buffing.

Using the metalizer sealer on either will greatly diminish the metal sheen. It's recommended that you only use the sealer in areas where the finished model will be handled. Since the uses of metalizers in automotive subjects are rarely handled, you can forego the sealer. It's really meant for finishes used on aircraft where handling is usually done on the fuselage and such.

you're right: I also observed that sealer decrease "real metal appeal" and shine. Also this paint is really fragile w/out clear

I'll add to the sealer comments that a good substitute for the sealer is a solid lacquer dullcote like Floquil's or Model Master's.

Also, if you really don't want a top coat over the metalizer (which most folks don't since it can spoil the look) then use a good "tooth" lacquer primer (like Floquil or 3M automotive) that the metalizer will stick to.

I'm pretty sure this is a dumb question, but I'll ask it anyway :)

If the MM sealer dulls the metal finish, could you use acrylic gloss clear (X-20?) instead? This could be polished after. Or could you mix the metaliser and clear before spraying? Would this make it more robust? Has anyone ever tried this?

I've had too much Christams spirit, perhaps? ;)

I'm pretty sure this is a dumb question, but I'll ask it anyway :)

If the MM sealer dulls the metal finish, could you use acrylic gloss clear (X-20?) instead? This could be polished after. Or could you mix the metaliser and clear before spraying? Would this make it more robust? Has anyone ever tried this?

I've had too much Christams spirit, perhaps? ;)

do you mean to mix sealer and x20?

I don't know exactly how kind of enamel MMM should be, MM sell a kind of thinner, However sealer is extremely thin, also if you do 2/3 layer when youtry to polish it is easy to come down to the tint

where'is my english from Christmas? :naughty:

do you mean to mix sealer and x20?

Yes, something like that. I was just "thinking out loud" ;)

MMM and clear would need to be compatible for sure. I was wondering if sealer could be replaced with smthg else or even pre-mixed with the clear.

My English is the bottom of a bottle :biggrin:

I don't recommend mixing metalizers with anything. Their make up is totally different than that of regular hobby paints, even if by Testors.

A dullcoat will still affect the metallic sheen as will a gloss and it just won't look like natural metal. Sure it's a delicate finish but, it's not THAT delicate. Just be aware that you're handling it and it will be fine.

On the flip side, I've found the use of a dull coat on the aluminum metalizer will leave you with a nice oxidized aluminum "look" found on many engine castings.

Also, brushing metalizer is almost impossible because they are so thin. I purposely store mine upside down so the metallic's will settle in the cap. When you remove the cap you will have a nice mound of metallic pigment ready for brushing (just don't shake the bottle too much before opening).

Also, brushing metalizer is almost impossible because they are so thin. I purposely store mine upside down so the metallic's will settle in the cap. When you remove the cap you will have a nice mound of metallic pigment ready for brushing (just don't shake the bottle too much before opening).

eh eh uside down: great tip man, I need to try, good for tuch up..