fiero problem

I just bought a 1987 fiero gt V6 and I am partly happy. The only reason I am not completely happy is because I am having trouble getting it started. I changed the distributor hoping that was the problem but I think I made it worse. Before changing the distributor, the Fiero used to start and after a few minutes it died so I found a used distributor and replaced it. Now it does not even start. Also I can smell gasoline so now I am thinking it can be the fuel pump.

I am the type of person that likes to work on cars, but I think I went over my head. My mechanical skills, if any are extremely limited. So If there is anyone out there that can help, I would greatly appreciated. This is a Poor Fiero Fanatic looking for advice

If you smell gas you have a working fuel pump. Many ignition problems can occur in the Fiero. Ignition module, under the distributor cap can be a problem. Ignition coil can be a problem. Wires and spark plugs can be a problem. The spark plugs, especially the three next to the front fire wall can be a PITA to remove, so many times don't get replaced. They can and do get corroded in place and lots of PB blaster can be used to free them up. Don't force them out, the tops can break off, then you'll need to take out the heads to get the spark plug pieces out.

I'd try replacing the module first. Use an AC Delco version, others are not that good. Get some heat sink grease (Radio Shack) to coat the metal plate on the module. (Important)
Then try replacing the coil.

Since it did run, I'm assuming, the wires and plugs are or were functioning. Those too should be replaced in the near future.

See if there are any error codes stored in the computer. See this link http://www.fiero.nl/cgi-bin/main.cgi?ECMCodes to understand how to read Fiero error codes.

Be sure your distributor timing is correct. When installing a distributor, rotate the engine until the #1 piston is at the top of the compression stroke. You can easily tell you're in the right spot by holding a thumb over the spark plug hole. When piston approaches TDC, the compression in the cylinder will pop your thumb off. At this point you can align the timing mark on the crank pulley with the o degree mark on the timing pointer. Install the distributor so that the rotor will be in line with the #1 plug wire terminal when the cap is installed. This will be enough to get the engine started. If you still have nothing, double check the timing again and make sure the plug wires are in the proper firing order. Once started, you'll still have to fine tune the ignition using a timing light. If you are positive everything is in it's proper order and still get nada, it's positive the used distributor, pickup or module is faulty. Try going back to the old one if all else fails. In the end, you'll need to do a bit of diagnosis to find the solution to the original problem that put you in this mess. A Fiero specific repair manual can be found in stock or ordered in a few days at any auto parts store for under $25.00. The manual will not only give you test procedures and troubleshooting for your ignition, but will undoubtedly pay for itself a hundred times over as future problems arise.

Thank you for your help.I was really not expecting a reply so soon. I will follow all your advice and hopely next time that I e-mail you, I can say my Fiero is working. Again thank you.

Be sure your distributor timing is correct. When installing a distributor, rotate the engine until the #1 piston is at the top of the compression stroke. You can easily tell you're in the right spot by holding a thumb over the spark plug hole. When piston approaches TDC, the compression in the cylinder will pop your thumb off. At this point you can align the timing mark on the crank pulley with the o degree mark on the timing pointer. Install the distributor so that the rotor will be in line with the #1 plug wire terminal when the cap is installed. This will be enough to get the engine started. If you still have nothing, double check the timing again and make sure the plug wires are in the proper firing order. Once started, you'll still have to fine tune the ignition using a timing light. If you are positive everything is in it's proper order and still get nada, it's positive the used distributor, pickup or module is faulty. Try going back to the old one if all else fails. In the end, you'll need to do a bit of diagnosis to find the solution to the original problem that put you in this mess. A Fiero specific repair manual can be found in stock or ordered in a few days at any auto parts store for under $25.00. The manual will not only give you test procedures and troubleshooting for your ignition, but will undoubtedly pay for itself a hundred times over as future problems arise.


It was the module which was a generic type. I changed it and it started. I was happy for about a week. Then I decided to change the spark plugs. I added plenty of WD40 before taking it out, but the bottom metal part of the spark plug stayed inside. They' ve told me to either take the motor apart or to use a special tool that will be screwed into where the spark plug goes and pull it out which one would you recommend.

If you smell gas you have a working fuel pump. Many ignition problems can occur in the Fiero. Ignition module, under the distributor cap can be a problem. Ignition coil can be a problem. Wires and spark plugs can be a problem. The spark plugs, especially the three next to the front fire wall can be a PITA to remove, so many times don't get replaced. They can and do get corroded in place and lots of PB blaster can be used to free them up. Don't force them out, the tops can break off, then you'll need to take out the heads to get the spark plug pieces out.

I'd try replacing the module first. Use an AC Delco version, others are not that good. Get some heat sink grease (Radio Shack) to coat the metal plate on the module. (Important)
Then try replacing the coil.

Since it did run, I'm assuming, the wires and plugs are or were functioning. Those too should be replaced in the near future.

See if there are any error codes stored in the computer. See this link http://www.fiero.nl/cgi-bin/main.cgi?ECMCodes to understand how to read Fiero error codes.


It was the module which was a generic type. I changed it and it started. I was happy for about a week. Then I decided to change the spark plugs. I added plenty of WD40 before taking it out, but the bottom metal part of the spark plug stayed inside. They' ve told me to either take the motor apart or to use a special tool that will be screwed into where the spark plug goes and pull it out which one would you recommend.

Sorry to hear about the broken spark plug. You can try an EZ out tool to remove it, but it will be a PITA. You can find EZ out at Sears or other auto parts store. If that fails, you may need to remove the head to get it out.

When I last removed the plugs it took me about two weeks to get all the plugs out. It was soak in penetrating oil and let it sit for a day or two. Then GENTLY try to remove the plug. add more oil and wait.

When I finally got the plugs out I added anti sieze to the threads to the new plugs.

My plugs had been in the car six years and 40,000 miles.

The recall removed the rubber water diverter to keep water off the plugs. So much for a recall.

Give the extractor a shot - just be VERY CAREFULL. Trying to force the seized plug could strip the threads and that means the head WILL have to come off, you'll have to replace head, valley cover and instake gaskets, re-torque head bolts and rocker arms, etc,etc,etc....
WD-40 is great for squeaky hinges and maybe even Aunt Mabel's arthritis but it's only fair when it comes to penetrating. Try something that's meant strictly for seized threads. A new but not-so-new product is Marvel Mystery penetrating oil - a spin off of the well known engine additive, but in this case it's in a spray can. I bought it on a whim when I saw a store display (I've always used MM oil in the crankcase on oil changes and in the gas tank, so it caught my eye right away) and fell in love with it. The stuff works GREAT on heat seized and rusted threads

Something that just hit me this very second.... you mentioned the insulator busted off, but you didn't say anything about stripping the hex on the base of the plug. If you haven't stripped it, it's a simple matter of penetrating oil and patience, and the plug will come out with a standard socket.

Like Lar said, use anti-seize on your new plugs so you don't repeat this hellish nightmare. The major auto parts stores practically throw the stuff at you in small packets for around $1.00 when you buy spark plugs, think about buying spark plugs, or even look like you might someday touch a spark plug.

Sorry to hear about the broken spark plug. You can try an EZ out tool to remove it, but it will be a PITA. You can find EZ out at Sears or other auto parts store. If that fails, you may need to remove the head to get it out.

When I last removed the plugs it took me about two weeks to get all the plugs out. It was soak in penetrating oil and let it sit for a day or two. Then GENTLY try to remove the plug. add more oil and wait.

When I finally got the plugs out I added anti sieze to the threads to the new plugs.

My plugs had been in the car six years and 40,000 miles.

The recall removed the rubber water diverter to keep water off the plugs. So much for a recall.

Gentleman I got it to work! After changing the fuel pump that busted, I got it to work. It is now on the street. Now that it is running the next step is to fix the AC and hopely one day paint it. Thank you for all your help. I greatly appreciate your help and time. Again thank you.

I hope the ac issue is just a recharge. I dropped $1300+ for a NEW system. It was still running R-12 and the car was in storage for a year and a half and everything dried up, leaked out and failed.