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car wont start at all


morfontheblue
10-05-2005, 03:35 AM
ok here is the deal. coming home car ran hot stoped at red light car died story of my life. car ran hot dont know why but what i do know is that i craked my water pump. not a problem i can fix here is the brian bust i go to trun the car over nothing. the motor's not froze because i can turn it with my hand. it makes a clicking sound like when the battery is dead .battery seams to be fine because every things works in side the car. i checked the starter wire and for the hell of it replaced it a pain in the butt .starter is fine for the hell of it replaced it to. replaced the finder coil for the hell of it. still no cranky so what the hell someone help :banghead:

smc1243
10-05-2005, 12:53 PM
Check the distributor - does it have an integrated chip installed? What kind of car do you have? I had a Nissan Stanza and it died when I went to the store. Cost me $300 for a new chip - wouldn't go until I replaced it. Wouldn't turn over or do anything. Found the problem using a fault analysis tree (from Nissan shop manual) and a multimeter.

97Bird
10-05-2005, 07:13 PM
Have a load test done on your battery. Just because the radio and lights in the car work doesn't mean the battery is all right. You replaced the battery cable to the starter but did you check the ground cable?

intrcptrbird
10-06-2005, 01:54 AM
Yeah check the battery because cranking over a car takes WAY more juice to do than anything else in it. If you have a battery charger at home you can connect the charger on the battery terminals, make sure its on 12 volts and try to start it using the juice coming from the charger. If you dont have one at home take it to a Pep Boys or Kagen ort something and they'll usually test it for free.

morfontheblue
10-06-2005, 01:01 PM
ya i checked the ground wire i replaced it to

coondawg6
10-07-2005, 06:18 PM
battery has 12.6 volts at rest, surface charge removed and you need at least one cranking amp per cubic inch----3.8 engine needs at least 232 cranking amps, 5.0 needs 302 cranking amps-------sounds like you have one or the other missing try another battery

morfontheblue
10-08-2005, 10:58 AM
took the battery to auto zone thay said the battery was good i replaced the termals on the battery it still does not want to crank

97Bird
10-09-2005, 05:58 PM
Ask if they did a load test on the battery or just checked it with a voltmeter. It has to be checked with a load on it. A quick and dirty test is to turn on your headlights and then try starting the car while someone watches the lights. If they dim way down then the battery is still suspect.

INNES
10-11-2005, 06:07 PM
your battery w/car off should have 12.8 volts.go down to your starter and see what kind of volts you have going to the big thick wire w/the big nut it should also be about 12.8

brianneves
10-11-2005, 09:23 PM
it sounds to me like the battery is no good. autozone is great for inexpensive repair and tune up parts, but you dont need a phd to work there. i agree with trying the "headlight load test" and i also think you ought to check the ground going from your negative battery terminal to the engine block. have you tried jump starting it? if not, try it. i can say for sure that your engine is not locked because im working with a tbird with a locke dengine and the starter does not do the "click click click" that you say yours is

hope this helps and let us know what it was when you figure it out!!

morfontheblue
10-13-2005, 09:35 AM
sorry for wrong info it advanced auto were i got the battery tested they did a cc test on the battery it was low but they charged it up its holding the volts it needs the pos and neg wires to the motor and starter i replaced i replaced the alt wire it was burned up so i took care of that finder coal replaced that took the starter there to t oget it checked they said it was fine to im losing my mind any body help i know the problem is small but what?

97Bird
10-13-2005, 03:19 PM
I don't know what you mean by a cc test of the battery but if it wasn't a test that they put a load on the battery for a certain amount of time and then measure the voltage then their test was useless! Did you try my quick and dirty test with the headlights? You might as well take the battery out of your mothers car and try that as coondawg6 eluded to earlier.

INNES
10-14-2005, 10:59 AM
not cc but
CA means cranking amps and CCA means cold cranking amps.

you can never go wrong by buying a new battery its only going to go bad sooner or later. and a new battery will give true results when testing the car

w/ a new battery check and recheck all your connections if the engine isent seized or hard turnig it should crank.
taking the spark plugs out will help it crank easyer.

INNES
10-14-2005, 11:15 AM
one more thing i read your story again and i know you can turn it by hand but check it again running it hot might have broke a head gasket causing hydrolock. so take the plugs out and turn it by hand if water comes out stop everything and do not start car w/out proper repare or you will blow a hole in the piston then kiss the motor goodbye

morfontheblue
10-14-2005, 03:35 PM
thanks innes never thought to do that. i will give it a try and see what gives. when i said cc thats what i ment cca my battery is like new it holds its cca and cc. i will pull the plug's and see what gives. when it went hot at the red light when it died and soon as it killed i tried to crank soon after

brianneves
10-14-2005, 08:51 PM
i really do think you should try to jump start it. if it doesnt jump start then you know with out a doubt that it is not the battery causing the problem. you also said that there was a burnt alternator wire? that might mean that you have an internal short in your alternator. to test for this, try removing the positive terminal from the alternator and then jump starting the battery. if it starts, then replace your alternator and problem solved

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