Whats a good $150 amp from circuit city or best buy?

OK well in case my amps are busted, i need a new one

Should i get one of the jensens from target?

if not what are some nice ones from circuit city/best buy for $150

i dont wanna buy online because i dont have the time

if anyone could help me with my amp hookup id apprectiate it

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?p=3455754#post3455754

basically i tried my alpine amp, didnt work

THe old amp worked, after moving the wires around a bit but then it stopped working, and itll light up every so often (the power led) but it wont stay on

so wtf?

is the fuse (the one that is near the battery) suppose to be tight? because i stuck it in, and i can pull it out super easy, shouldnt it be hard to pull out?

The time? It takes some research, but you can get it shipped to your door and you'll save money too...

How much power do you need to push? Also, if you don't mind buying online, look into Profile amps, they put out close to rated power and I haven't had any problems with mine, plus they are Cheap.

-Ryan

what model profile did you get

Look at profile, hifonics, avionixx, you can get them off ebay for a really good price and ikesound. If you get it from ebay ive bought from millionbuy, not the best shipping and they screwed my order up once directly from the site but if i remember right they actualy have a warranty.

Give me an idea what your lookin for and i can look around when i get some time you can get a prfile shipped for less than a 100 and they usually have a good power rating.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Brand-New-Profile-AP740-480-Watt-4-Channel-Amp-Low_W0QQitemZ5814221860QQcategoryZ4950QQrdZ1QQcmdZ ViewItem
this one would be perfect for 4 speakers, or 2 and a low powered sub anything from 150-400rms. Less than a 100 shipped and a 1 year warranty.
Just give me an idea of what your looking for and i can see what they have for a good price.

I have the HA1000, I have heard that it isn't the best line to buy from profile, but it has stood up to my abuse, and in my opinion, abuse from a noob is the worse kind. It is rated at 240x2 @2ohm, and like 180x2@2ohm. Which is basically perfect when I had it running my 2 RE, Re 12's

-Ryan

*Edit* I think i got it for like 90 bucks shipped.

i have two kicker comp 12's that are 8 ohms what would be good

are those dual voice coil? I am just wondering cause my Kicker Comp VR's were dvc?

i do believe so

I can't tell you what model of amp to get, but I would prob venture you want something that puts out 700-800 wrms @ 4ohms. If I remember right, those are rated at 400wrms?

I assume they are 4 ohm coils, so you could wire them at 2 ohms or 8 ohms. Wire each sub to 2 ohms, then get a 2ch amp that pushes 250-300wrms @2ohms (I don't know what the rating of the subs is soo...just get an amp to match) Then call it good I guess.

-Ryan

Oh, make sure to set the gains right...

Ok, I assume you DON'T mean the VR, so the standard comp's are 150wrms. If it was me, I would pick up a amp that put out around 200wRMS at 2ohm (2channel) and set the gains a little conserative, that way I had a little head room to play with if I wanted to.

But that is just me.

-Ryan

well by time i mean, i dont wanna have to wait for shipping

All im gonna run is a single, 10 inch i believe, pioneer sub, i have no idea what its rms or peak wattage is

im not gonna run my other speakers through the amp, just that one sub, possibly 2 if i buy a new one

but right now its either the single 10 inch pioneer or 2 6.5in subs (no idea what brand) depending which sounds better

but ya not gonna be running much

edit: if anyone could help me with my amp hookup id apprectiate it

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?p=3455754#post3455754

basically i tried my alpine amp, didnt work

THe old amp worked, after moving the wires around a bit but then it stopped working, and itll light up every so often (the power led) but it wont stay on

so wtf?

is the fuse (the one that is near the battery) suppose to be tight? because i stuck it in, and i can pull it out super easy, shouldnt it be hard to pull out?

I would say just get one of the smaller profile amps. I know you don't want to wait on shipping, jsut get it shipped next day. When I was shopping around for amps for my RE's I never could find one anywhere local that was under 250 bucks for what kinda output I wanted, and I wasen't looking for a whole lot of output (~250 at 2ohm)

But since you want just a smaller amp, you might be able to find one decently priced locally, idk.

-Ryan

are hifonix and avionix cheap? or is profile the cheapest?

can anyone help with my amp prob?? (chech the bottom of the first post)

Ok, to hook up an amp, I will try to explain this best that I can

Run a powerwire from the battery to the amp (put a fuse within 18 inches from the battery, ALWAYS put a fuse)

Run the ground from the amp to the chassis of the vehicle, try to keep this as short as you can.

Run the remote wire from the head unit to the amp (little like 18-20gague wire), this tells the amp when to turn on.

Run the RCA's from the headunit to the input side on the amp

Run the speaker wire from the amp to the subs.

Set gains properly.

Enjoy.

Always try to put real connectors on the end of the wire (spade connectors, something), don't just leave it frayed and shove it into the amp, this will cause problems, I have seen more than one amp fry becase of this.

how do you set your gain properly

Cavalier--

I would get an amp that pushed 150x2wrms @2ohms

Or

Something that pushed 300wrms@4ohms (mono)

-Ryan

thanks

Gain setting link...

http://forums.caraudio.com/vb/showthread.php?t=63933

ya i did all that, im positive all the connections are fine

(btw is it me or is crimping the power and ground cables impossible? i had to use the inside of big ass bolt cutter things IE Jaws of life)

but ya theres contact between the crimps

my amp is grounded to a bolt which i sanded the paint around it, and a its all hooked up

i dunno whats up, is the fuse suppose to be loose?

To crimp them, I cheat.

I just stick them in the edge of the jaws of a vise, and no problem.

You said after moving the wires around a bet it stopped working. Double check all the fuses and connections, but you could have blown the amp. I did that one time, to stupid to unhook the power before playing with then connections.

*edit* No, the fuse isn't supposed to be loose, you migt have to reach in there with a small screwdriver and kinda tweak where the blades of the fuse touch a little (make sure the power is off) to move the metal contact blades out more to get a better grasp on the fuse blades. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong.

-Ryan

ya i woulda done that (coulda done that with my ground) but i already ran my power wire through my car, so i had to use the jaws of life

but after moving the wires it WORKED, so i just sat there messing with my headunits settings, then i went back to check on the sub and the amps power light was off (i was messing with the headunits bass and treble and sub woofer settings) occasionally while moving the wires the light would come on (really dull though) and slowly go out, but no sound from my sub

Ya i took out the fuse (with the power still connected) and i put it back in (cuz i noticed how easy it was to pull) and it sparked lol

so the fuse needs to be tightened a bit or my amp is blown? the alpine amp my dad got at an auction for 20 bucks (same with the other one that sorta worked except that was a dollar)

You will have to wait till someone more knowledge to tell you if your amp is blown or not. I would try to mess with the fuse a little first.

-Ryan

ya im gonna try my alpine and the other amp in my sisters boy friends car when he comes by sometime (after all he is using an amp my dad gave him (its a jensen lol with i think 250w bridged)

Are you sure that your fuse is actually making a connection? Maybe the metal prongs that the fuse goes into are so loose that it's not even making a perfect connection.

^^thats what im hoping, im gonna check it out in a bit

k guys i think the sub is too much for my amp or somethin

cuz it works fine, but when i go past 17 on the volume, the amp dies

i need help mounting my dam head unit

YAYAY i got it in!! i need a new amp

they got refurbed pioneers (125w rmsx2) and its 760w max or somethin 65 buy it now

OKk ya so ill probly buy either a profile or a pioneer off ebay (what are some good ones?)

or one of these from best buy (circuit city has no cheap ones)

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?skuId=6983339&type=product&productCategoryId=cat03085&id=1099388650720

i kinda wanna just get a dual, i mean around 230w rms bridged, sure its dual but its got power, how bad can they be? lol

are insignias good?

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?skuId=7218888&type=product&productCategoryId=cat03085&id=1114638698347

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?skuId=6982045&type=product&productCategoryId=cat03085&id=1099388426171

i think they got ^^that one on ebay for pretty cheap

power acustik?
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?skuId=7042023&type=product&productCategoryId=cat03085&id=1099396539080

rockford?
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?skuId=6986997&type=product&productCategoryId=cat03085&id=1099389702426

why are sonys bad?

What kind of wiring did you say you were using?

The amp just turns off? Does the fuse blow?

I have an poweracoustik0v2 820 that i want to get rid of 85$ pm me if your interested.
230x2 @2ohm 180x2 @4ohm 360x1 mono @4ohm

I had that same problem with the fuse sometimes my amp would turn off, check the fuse and make shure its super tight they can have bad conections.

im using a 550w peak (220w rms or so) wiring kit from scosche which i got from walmart

I dunno if the fuse blows or not, but it just turns off

Well this isn't recomended but if ya really wanted to know weiter or not it is the fuse temporarly bypass the fuse i say only temporarly becasue that fuse is very important i've heard of many car fires becasue they didn't have their audio equipment fused. If it is the fuse just go about the step of toubleshotting fuse size and weiter or not it work and so forth.

by pass the fuse as in

take it out and hook up a wire connecting the 2 leads?

the alpine, insignia, rockford and power accoustik look kinda nice

what do u think?

I've never used rockford or alpine i'd shy away from insignia becasue its the best buy house brand and i've talk to employees about the brand and they say spend a little more and get name brand, i guess it depends on how you use it.

Yes find some way to get somethign in the fuses spot but be safe about it you are dealing with a lot of power the best method for saftey might be to run a temporary power line from your battery. I've seen wires start on fire and its not prety so make shure you get the right size if you do run a temporary wire.

ehh idont wanna risk it

someone said to set my gains to the lowest and then turn the volume up, see if it still blows, im gonna try it

k so insignia sucks

how about the rockford, power accoustik and that alpine? cuz i have friday off, no school or work, so id like to go and by the amp and install it on friday

are these kickers any good?

http://www.circuitcity.com/rpsm/catOid/-13095/N/20013088+20013095+40794641/link/ref/rpem/ccd/categorylist.do

how are bazookas? (the ones they have at circuit city are all mono amps though

Alpine is a good compnay and Rockford is also a fairly good company. The poweracoustik amp that i have now is a great amp for sub's i'm tring to run fullrange speakers with it so i don't really like it.

You've waited liek 3 days for people to get back with you right? Well if you find out your amp isn't any god http://www.etronics.com (http://www.etronics.com/) is a good site to order off of i get a lot of what i order in 3 days.

well id rather not have to go through the trouble of buying online (getting my dads credit card and all that)

So which would be best?

one of the kickers at circuit city?

http://www.circuitcity.com/rpsm/catOid/-13095/N/20013088+20013095+40794641/link/ref/rpem/ccd/categorylist.do

the power acoustik
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?skuId=7042023&type=product&productCategoryId=cat03085&id=1099396539080

Rockford
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?skuId=6986997&type=product&productCategoryId=cat03085&id=1099389702426

or the alpine
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?skuId=6983339&type=product&productCategoryId=cat03085&id=1099388650720

i think the power acoustik has the highest bridged rms correct me if im wrong

how bout the pioneer

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?skuId=6982045&type=product&productCategoryId=cat03085&id=1099388426171

The Poweracoustik is a good amp i have one and have no problem with it, i siad this befor. Quality reasons the alpine is better but you don't get as much power now for amps i can't really tell a difference besides options between a $200 and a $2,000 espically on subs. You are paying twice for the pa amp then you would on the internet though that same amp is on line for 70 with 15 for shipping
well not quite twice.

i couldnt find the power acustik on ebay

same with the rockford,

the pioneer, alpine and the kicker are on there for around <100

Ok well through the many opinions and personal experience i stay away from almost everything that best buy and circuit city sells. Power acoustik does make some good amps but i would never use one personally and there speakers are just pieces of shit, they are a little over priced but they get the job done. Rockford is just a joke unless you want to spend a ton of cash on there power series that and the stuff they sell at best buy is insanely over priced. Sony blows altogether except there high end and i mean there $500+ HU. Kicker anything unless you get it of ebay or know somebody is over priced like hell and there generakky over rated too. Dont get me wrong these companies do have there good points but they are overrated and really arent that good compared to other stuff. Alpine does make some awsome stuff but depending on what your looking for you might spend more than you want.

Out of the stuff you listed the pioneer has the highest bridged output. The power acoustik has only 240rms bridged and they have the power rating reversed it should be 125@4ohm and 180@2ohm. Out of that list i would get the pioneer.

If you dont want the risk of going through ebay than ikesound is an authorized dealer for most brands and you get the warranty and everything.

This amp would destroy anything from bestbuy or circuit city and its about $50 cheaper than anything you put down.
http://www.ikesound.com/product-product_id/2212

and this ones even better and its only about 20 bucks more

http://www.ikesound.com/product-product_id/2214

and that pioner is about $50 cheaper than it is at best buy.
http://www.ikesound.com/product-product_id/2884

But if you have to then the kickers from circuit city or the pioneer would be the best deal, and personally i would go through ike sound only because you can save almost 50 bucks and put it in somewhere else. From what it looks like your looking for a 2 channel amo that can be bridged with a decent amount of power and that second profile has 600rms and they are rated at 14.4v and some companies dont list it but they like to rate it at 18v which is more than that amp will ever see and it makes the power rating almost 1/3 higher than it is at what your car puts out so read the fine print to.

well if im gonna buy online ill probly just buy on ebay

but ya,

Kicker, alpine, pioneer, power acustik, rockford, or profile

which kicker would you suggest from circuit city?

ya chances are ill go online, probly ebay

Ok so with around 150-160 to spend, what profile amp would be the best i dont wanna spend all 150-160 but ya

ya on ebay the pioneer is around 80-110 buy it now brand new

and the profiles are around 80-100

but the profiles have more power than the pioneer?

i got a question, all amps should fit standard ring terminals ad stuff right?

hmm its working now

i tried it with no load, works

i tried it (with engine off) worked

so i tried with the engine on, didnt work

tried single channel instead of bridge, worked, tried bridged again, and it works wtf?

that means your sub and amp may be different impedence. Are you using one sub or two? if 2, how are they wired, parallel or series? your amp may not be stable at 2 ohms.

Profile uses a lug system its a set screw system just put the bare wire in the hole tighten the set screw and its done. Just be sure not to torque the shit out of it if you do you will most likely strip the plastic threads can be repaired easily with jb weld or a helicoil but just make them snug so the wire stays in there. Like i said last night bboy look into profile amps 600rms bridged for 115 from ikesound and its cheaper on ebay. As for his amp its only 4 ohm stable bridged so 2 ohm would put it into protect, and he only has one sub, i was trying to see if he can get me model number so i can see whether its dvc and whether or not its 2 or 4 ohm. As far as the amp working in the different circumstances and not in others and since it works now it sounds like there might be a probem internally with your amp. I had a bazooka that had a bad circuit between the power and remote s the amp would never turn off so i put it on a switch. Remember that having an amp bigger than the sub wont matter just dont crank the amp and if you decide to upgrade then you have the amp that can handle it. The other good thing about profile is that there is no gain control it doesnt need it it has a bass control, crossover, a poer level control and a switch to turn it on LP-off-HP, or LP-low pass crossover only plays sounds below i think its like 300hz so its only bass, of it plays everything, and HP-plays all the high stuff about like 1khz and up. So when your tuning it you can tune it by three methods to get the sound you like. If you get a chance bboy try to get that model number so can se what size amp you would need for it and whether or not its dvc or svc and what impendance it is.

ok so the hp and lp on my head unit adjust what sounds come out? (type/frequency or whatever)?

ya when i was going to work the sub turned off while i had it on 20, after driving for a bit, but on my way back it worked fine at 20

ya its one sub,

so basically a new amp SHOULD probly fix this? (either way id like a new amp lol)

If your HU has one then yeah it can do that but the profile has one built into the amp very nice if your just using the amp for a sub. Ive had that problem before to turned out to be the ground was coming loose on the amp. But a new amp will definately be a uge improvement and if you somehow manage to turn this one ff then it is most likely the sub or the wiring. Like said earlier an amp that is bigger than needed isnt a bad thing because you can turn the power down and when you upgrade you have the extra power at hand.

i just wanna run around 20, thats really the most i feel like doing, anything else is too loud imo

man my dad wants me to go garage saling with him today, to look for amps (at 7 its now almsot 4 lol)

i dont wanna go, cuz he can just find an amp and bring it back, i really wanna buy a new profile though

man they got a new ap1200 for 83 buy it now and 15 shipping i WANT IT!!

What kind of garage sales do you go to to buy an amp?

random garage sales someone usually has somethin, i dont wanna go (i thought we were goin friday morning, but we didnt, so were going tomorow morning ) i dont really wanna go, cuz last time he got the alpine amp and i wasnt there, whys he need me

but he also wants to check out the pawn shop (well get over priced crap lol) i really just wanna buy a new amp (profile) on ebay

I wouldnt suggest buying anything electronic from a garage sale or a pwan shop, unless its something rare or you can actually see it perform before you buy it, 9 times out of 10 not very likely. I have bought used car audio stuff from friends with no problems but at a garage sale you dont know how it was treated, whther it works or not and whether or not its really worth the money. Just pick out a profile that you think would be in the correct size area for what you want. In your case look into what subs you might be interested in or in the case with ha1200 you could get a low power single 15 or 18 and have the ability to make it sound good. Unless your buying something from someone you know then i wouldnt suggest it, got 2 polk 12's in box for 50 and a ca400m for 50 half power at 2 ohms about 75 watts and those 10 year old subs can fucking pound. When i asked what power you where looking for i was talking about how many watts you think would be enough for your future plans. I also believe the ha1200 has a bass remote so you can change the bass boost from your seat rather than having to try and tune it when you get a chance.

is there an ha and an ap? or did u just make a big typo? lol ya i searched on ebay no ha's

ya i dont wanna buy from a garage sale, nor pwn shop, but if my dads buying, he can go ahead lol he bought the alpine

and ya the ap1200 has a remote which is sweet

ill try and get that

edit: wait, all my amp wirings have ring terminales or spade terminals (ground, remote and power have spade, the 2 speaker wires have ring terminals)

and so can the profile amps take the ring/spade terminals? they better, cuz i dont wanna rip my terminals off/cut my wires

Sorry i ment the AP series which is there newer line that replaced the california series, the HA is the model numbers for there baja series amps.

i see , but ya i just wanna get a dam profile, apparantly my dad didnt wanna wait 5 min for me to eat breakfast and so he left without me

so here i am, but ya the ap1000 is like 65 buy it now

i want a ap1200 though

Well its still below your $150 price range for the 1200 and hell they have a ap2000 or ha 2000 cant remember on ike sound $175 bridged at 4ohm it has 960w-rmsx1 thats insane thats more powerful than the kicker1200.1 for about a 1/3 of the price only bad thing is that it doesnt have the ability to run 2ohm stable bridged. But they do have some mono amps that can handle the 2ohm load.