Time for a new welder...
Cbass
08-26-2005, 12:41 PM
In the market for a new welder, looking for around 200amp DC welder... Anyone got any recommendations? I'm looking to buy new for the warranty.
The main thing that's on my mind here is TIG capability. I don't know a whole lot about TIG, as I'm just a C level guy. What are the advantages of going with a true TIG capable welder as opposed to the old trick of just hooking up a TIG electrode and gas to an arc welder?
The main thing that's on my mind here is TIG capability. I don't know a whole lot about TIG, as I'm just a C level guy. What are the advantages of going with a true TIG capable welder as opposed to the old trick of just hooking up a TIG electrode and gas to an arc welder?
mike@af
08-26-2005, 04:39 PM
If you're going to go TIG by a machine that you can use forever. As they say, "theres little point in buying a TIG without AC". You need AC to weld aluminum. Aluminum is best TIGed. TIGs are expensive, but worth the money if you buy a machine that will last you.
If you just hook up the TIG accessories to an Arc welder you dont have many capabilities. Most jobs require high freq arc start so you dont contaminate the weld. You usually cant do this with an arc adapter. And when you buy the HF unit for the arc welder, it ends up being as much as a real TIG.
Hope that helps.
If you just hook up the TIG accessories to an Arc welder you dont have many capabilities. Most jobs require high freq arc start so you dont contaminate the weld. You usually cant do this with an arc adapter. And when you buy the HF unit for the arc welder, it ends up being as much as a real TIG.
Hope that helps.
Cbass
08-27-2005, 12:39 AM
If you're going to go TIG by a machine that you can use forever. As they say, "theres little point in buying a TIG without AC". You need AC to weld aluminum. Aluminum is best TIGed. TIGs are expensive, but worth the money if you buy a machine that will last you.
If you just hook up the TIG accessories to an Arc welder you dont have many capabilities. Most jobs require high freq arc start so you dont contaminate the weld. You usually cant do this with an arc adapter. And when you buy the HF unit for the arc welder, it ends up being as much as a real TIG.
Hope that helps.
So I guess I'll hold off on getting a TIG welder for the next little while... Thanks!
As for contaminating the arc, you mean contamination from atmosphere, before the shielding gas displaces teh air?
I was looking at the Lincoln AC225 with DC function, but it loses half of the current through rectifying, and comes out to be 120a or so... I don't really want to shell out a grand for an inverter unless I have to, anybody know of any good bargain DC welders that are good to around 200a?
If you just hook up the TIG accessories to an Arc welder you dont have many capabilities. Most jobs require high freq arc start so you dont contaminate the weld. You usually cant do this with an arc adapter. And when you buy the HF unit for the arc welder, it ends up being as much as a real TIG.
Hope that helps.
So I guess I'll hold off on getting a TIG welder for the next little while... Thanks!
As for contaminating the arc, you mean contamination from atmosphere, before the shielding gas displaces teh air?
I was looking at the Lincoln AC225 with DC function, but it loses half of the current through rectifying, and comes out to be 120a or so... I don't really want to shell out a grand for an inverter unless I have to, anybody know of any good bargain DC welders that are good to around 200a?
mike@af
08-27-2005, 08:41 AM
So I guess I'll hold off on getting a TIG welder for the next little while... Thanks!
As for contaminating the arc, you mean contamination from atmosphere, before the shielding gas displaces teh air?
I was looking at the Lincoln AC225 with DC function, but it loses half of the current through rectifying, and comes out to be 120a or so... I don't really want to shell out a grand for an inverter unless I have to, anybody know of any good bargain DC welders that are good to around 200a?
The weld is contaminated by scratch start because tungsten from the electrode is left on the steel and the weld leaving tungsten and carbon deposits which can result in weld failure.
Inverters are neat, but dont last as long. The inverters use smaller aluminum coils to meet the demand for a light portable welder, whereas the big machines use big long lasting copper wound coils. The copper wound coils last much longer. As they say, the bigger the machine the better.
The EconoTIG is an excellent machine from Miller. I've used it and love it. Its 150amp at 40% dutycycle. AC and DC. The Miller Syncrowave is what I'm looking into getting.
Take a look at the older machines. A lot of them are very powerful, but less expensive since they dont have "squarewave" technology. One of my customers at work has a 500AMP Lincoln Idealarc that he bought at an auction for $400. Its built like a tank and was made in WWII he said. The catch is, some of the machines are three phase. You can get converters though.
As for contaminating the arc, you mean contamination from atmosphere, before the shielding gas displaces teh air?
I was looking at the Lincoln AC225 with DC function, but it loses half of the current through rectifying, and comes out to be 120a or so... I don't really want to shell out a grand for an inverter unless I have to, anybody know of any good bargain DC welders that are good to around 200a?
The weld is contaminated by scratch start because tungsten from the electrode is left on the steel and the weld leaving tungsten and carbon deposits which can result in weld failure.
Inverters are neat, but dont last as long. The inverters use smaller aluminum coils to meet the demand for a light portable welder, whereas the big machines use big long lasting copper wound coils. The copper wound coils last much longer. As they say, the bigger the machine the better.
The EconoTIG is an excellent machine from Miller. I've used it and love it. Its 150amp at 40% dutycycle. AC and DC. The Miller Syncrowave is what I'm looking into getting.
Take a look at the older machines. A lot of them are very powerful, but less expensive since they dont have "squarewave" technology. One of my customers at work has a 500AMP Lincoln Idealarc that he bought at an auction for $400. Its built like a tank and was made in WWII he said. The catch is, some of the machines are three phase. You can get converters though.
Cbass
08-28-2005, 04:17 AM
The weld is contaminated by scratch start because tungsten from the electrode is left on the steel and the weld leaving tungsten and carbon deposits which can result in weld failure.
Ah, I see... I think I'll have to pass on TIG for now then, but the EconoTIG is pretty promising.
Take a look at the older machines. A lot of them are very powerful, but less expensive since they dont have "squarewave" technology. One of my customers at work has a 500AMP Lincoln Idealarc that he bought at an auction for $400. Its built like a tank and was made in WWII he said. The catch is, some of the machines are three phase. You can get converters though.
I'm getting this welder through my work, so I'm hesitant to buy an old welder, in case it fails, since my boss is putting up half of the money.
Ah, I see... I think I'll have to pass on TIG for now then, but the EconoTIG is pretty promising.
Take a look at the older machines. A lot of them are very powerful, but less expensive since they dont have "squarewave" technology. One of my customers at work has a 500AMP Lincoln Idealarc that he bought at an auction for $400. Its built like a tank and was made in WWII he said. The catch is, some of the machines are three phase. You can get converters though.
I'm getting this welder through my work, so I'm hesitant to buy an old welder, in case it fails, since my boss is putting up half of the money.
mike@af
08-28-2005, 08:27 AM
In that case, I'd go with a Miller Syncrowave 180SD or bigger. The Syncrowave's are superior machines with squarewave technology and AC balance.
The Lincoln Precision TIG 175 is also a good match to the Miller Syncrowave. It also has squarewave technology.
I just noticed you're a Porsche fan. My buddy and I just bought a 944 that we're turning into a road racer and autocrosser. Pictures to come!
The Lincoln Precision TIG 175 is also a good match to the Miller Syncrowave. It also has squarewave technology.
I just noticed you're a Porsche fan. My buddy and I just bought a 944 that we're turning into a road racer and autocrosser. Pictures to come!
Cbass
08-30-2005, 10:02 PM
In that case, I'd go with a Miller Syncrowave 180SD or bigger. The Syncrowave's are superior machines with squarewave technology and AC balance.
The Lincoln Precision TIG 175 is also a good match to the Miller Syncrowave. It also has squarewave technology.
I just noticed you're a Porsche fan. My buddy and I just bought a 944 that we're turning into a road racer and autocrosser. Pictures to come!
I'm mostly interested in having a poweful DC welder for my work right now, have to weld about 1/2" thick steel, and the AC welder we have right now SUCKS. TIG was a notion that it might be nice to have... I think I may buy a Hobart DC welder, they seem to have the most reasonable 200amp DC welder out there.
Awesome! Here's a good tip for the 924/944 series cars, cut an access panel in the rear transaxle bellhousing, helps so much when installing or removing the transaxle.
Also a good one, tie the roll cage into the outer housing of the driveshaft, and go to solid engine and transmission mounts. This makes the entire driveline a stressed member of the chassis, and results in insane body stiffness.
The Lincoln Precision TIG 175 is also a good match to the Miller Syncrowave. It also has squarewave technology.
I just noticed you're a Porsche fan. My buddy and I just bought a 944 that we're turning into a road racer and autocrosser. Pictures to come!
I'm mostly interested in having a poweful DC welder for my work right now, have to weld about 1/2" thick steel, and the AC welder we have right now SUCKS. TIG was a notion that it might be nice to have... I think I may buy a Hobart DC welder, they seem to have the most reasonable 200amp DC welder out there.
Awesome! Here's a good tip for the 924/944 series cars, cut an access panel in the rear transaxle bellhousing, helps so much when installing or removing the transaxle.
Also a good one, tie the roll cage into the outer housing of the driveshaft, and go to solid engine and transmission mounts. This makes the entire driveline a stressed member of the chassis, and results in insane body stiffness.
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