95 Camry Timing 2.2L
JennyDee
08-05-2005, 06:50 PM
I have a 95 Camry 2.2L and am trying to check the timing. The problem I am having is that I can not turn the distributor even after loosening the bolt that holds it to the engine head. Is there more than one bolt that I need to loosen as it did not show another one in the Haynes repair manual.
Also, I am not using a external tach but rather looking at the dashboard tach for the 750 rpms. I am getting a reading of 5-10 BTDC with the jumpers TE1 and E1 and without the jumper. The manual says that I should be in the range of 12-22 degrees BTDC. I assume that I will get better gas mileage if I can get the number 1# cylinder to fire in that range rather than the 5-10 degree range I am now seeing.
Any thoughts on how I can get the distributor to move!
Jenny Dee
Also, I am not using a external tach but rather looking at the dashboard tach for the 750 rpms. I am getting a reading of 5-10 BTDC with the jumpers TE1 and E1 and without the jumper. The manual says that I should be in the range of 12-22 degrees BTDC. I assume that I will get better gas mileage if I can get the number 1# cylinder to fire in that range rather than the 5-10 degree range I am now seeing.
Any thoughts on how I can get the distributor to move!
Jenny Dee
Brian R.
08-05-2005, 07:12 PM
It is correct to have timing at 10 deg BTDC with the jumper. It should be in the range of 0-10 deg BTDC without the jumper.
The single hold-down bolt is the only thing keeping you from moving the distributor. Maybe the o-ring is really seated hard and making it difficult to turn.
The single hold-down bolt is the only thing keeping you from moving the distributor. Maybe the o-ring is really seated hard and making it difficult to turn.
Brian R.
08-05-2005, 07:14 PM
It is correct to have timing at 10 deg BTDC with the jumper (transmission in neutral). It should be in the range of 0-10 deg BTDC without the jumper. If your car is OBDII-compliant (check the labels under the hood), you cannot change the timing. Timing is pre-set.
The single hold-down bolt is the only thing keeping you from moving the distributor if you have a California car. There may be two hold-down bolts in non-California distributors.
Download the '94 Camry manual in the sticky at the top of this forum. The '94 manual describes an OBDI ignition. Some '95s were OBDI and some were OBDII.
See the following tech articles:
OBDI http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h23.pdf
OBDII http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h39.pdf
General http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h59.pdf
Exactly what is applicable to your car will be determined by whether it is OBDI or OBDII compliant.
The single hold-down bolt is the only thing keeping you from moving the distributor if you have a California car. There may be two hold-down bolts in non-California distributors.
Download the '94 Camry manual in the sticky at the top of this forum. The '94 manual describes an OBDI ignition. Some '95s were OBDI and some were OBDII.
See the following tech articles:
OBDI http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h23.pdf
OBDII http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h39.pdf
General http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h59.pdf
Exactly what is applicable to your car will be determined by whether it is OBDI or OBDII compliant.
Toysrme
08-05-2005, 08:21 PM
At a warm idle, in diagnostic mode, Toyota is universal at 10*btdc. When not in diag mode, the ignition timing will adjust itself to current conditions to smooth engine operation.
What the Haynes manual is getting at, is that if you check the timing without diagnostic's mode - it is within specification if timing varrys between 12-22*btdc.
If you warm the engine up, and check it at idle in diagnostics mode, the timing should be 10*btdc, unless the ECU is compensating for fuel quality, or having to bounce the spark timing to set a reliable idle.
If it stays at, around 10*btdc there isn't a problem.
What the Haynes manual is getting at, is that if you check the timing without diagnostic's mode - it is within specification if timing varrys between 12-22*btdc.
If you warm the engine up, and check it at idle in diagnostics mode, the timing should be 10*btdc, unless the ECU is compensating for fuel quality, or having to bounce the spark timing to set a reliable idle.
If it stays at, around 10*btdc there isn't a problem.
JennyDee
08-06-2005, 06:06 AM
Hello Brian:
I did not find any info on the tags on the hood mentioning OBDII or OBDI. I did download the Manual that you had suggested and it was much more detailed than the Haynes. I was able to identify from the manual that the distributor was non Calf and had the two bolts. I was able to get a finger on the bottom bolt but it is in a tight location. One thing I did not due was to have the transmission in neutral when reading the tach. I will try it again today and check the timing.
Jenny
It is correct to have timing at 10 deg BTDC with the jumper (transmission in neutral). It should be in the range of 0-10 deg BTDC without the jumper. If your car is OBDII-compliant (check the labels under the hood), you cannot change the timing. Timing is pre-set.
The single hold-down bolt is the only thing keeping you from moving the distributor if you have a California car. There may be two hold-down bolts in non-California distributors.
Download the '94 Camry manual in the sticky at the top of this forum. The '94 manual describes an OBDI ignition. Some '95s were OBDI and some were OBDII.
See the following tech articles:
OBDI http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h23.pdf
OBDII http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h39.pdf
General http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h59.pdf
Exactly what is applicable to your car will be determined by whether it is OBDI or OBDII compliant.
I did not find any info on the tags on the hood mentioning OBDII or OBDI. I did download the Manual that you had suggested and it was much more detailed than the Haynes. I was able to identify from the manual that the distributor was non Calf and had the two bolts. I was able to get a finger on the bottom bolt but it is in a tight location. One thing I did not due was to have the transmission in neutral when reading the tach. I will try it again today and check the timing.
Jenny
It is correct to have timing at 10 deg BTDC with the jumper (transmission in neutral). It should be in the range of 0-10 deg BTDC without the jumper. If your car is OBDII-compliant (check the labels under the hood), you cannot change the timing. Timing is pre-set.
The single hold-down bolt is the only thing keeping you from moving the distributor if you have a California car. There may be two hold-down bolts in non-California distributors.
Download the '94 Camry manual in the sticky at the top of this forum. The '94 manual describes an OBDI ignition. Some '95s were OBDI and some were OBDII.
See the following tech articles:
OBDI http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h23.pdf
OBDII http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h39.pdf
General http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h59.pdf
Exactly what is applicable to your car will be determined by whether it is OBDI or OBDII compliant.
JennyDee
08-06-2005, 06:20 AM
Hello Toysrme:
You are 100% correct!! I was reading the manual incorrectly. I will check the timing today in diagnostic mode and see how close I am to 10 degrees BTDC.
The car is running fine with 136K, but I do have a slight uneven vibration during hard accelerations. I've changed the basics, wires, Bosh 4 point Plugs, rotor, cap, (, at the shop timing belt, oil seals and water pump) I've added seafoam through the brake vaccum hose ( can feel the difference in power) but still have this slight vibration as if there is a communicatoin error in the system. Once I ease off the gas, there in irons out.
I will check the timing today.
Jenny
At a warm idle, in diagnostic mode, Toyota is universal at 10*btdc. When not in diag mode, the ignition timing will adjust itself to current conditions to smooth engine operation.
What the Haynes manual is getting at, is that if you check the timing without diagnostic's mode - it is within specification if timing varrys between 12-22*btdc.
If you warm the engine up, and check it at idle in diagnostics mode, the timing should be 10*btdc, unless the ECU is compensating for fuel quality, or having to bounce the spark timing to set a reliable idle.
If it stays at, around 10*btdc there isn't a problem.
You are 100% correct!! I was reading the manual incorrectly. I will check the timing today in diagnostic mode and see how close I am to 10 degrees BTDC.
The car is running fine with 136K, but I do have a slight uneven vibration during hard accelerations. I've changed the basics, wires, Bosh 4 point Plugs, rotor, cap, (, at the shop timing belt, oil seals and water pump) I've added seafoam through the brake vaccum hose ( can feel the difference in power) but still have this slight vibration as if there is a communicatoin error in the system. Once I ease off the gas, there in irons out.
I will check the timing today.
Jenny
At a warm idle, in diagnostic mode, Toyota is universal at 10*btdc. When not in diag mode, the ignition timing will adjust itself to current conditions to smooth engine operation.
What the Haynes manual is getting at, is that if you check the timing without diagnostic's mode - it is within specification if timing varrys between 12-22*btdc.
If you warm the engine up, and check it at idle in diagnostics mode, the timing should be 10*btdc, unless the ECU is compensating for fuel quality, or having to bounce the spark timing to set a reliable idle.
If it stays at, around 10*btdc there isn't a problem.
Toysrme
08-06-2005, 10:20 AM
Ewwww!
Ditch the Bosch plugs. For whatever reason, all non Denso / NGK plugs give Nippon-Denso ignitions fits. It may not make a differance now, it may not make a differance next year, but sometime between the time you put them in & change them 60,000 miles later; the car *will* start to run like a 1 leg pig.
Just get the cheapest Denso, or NGK plug you can find. Normally one or the other is on sale at autostores for $1-$1.50 a plug. They always are here. They come pre-gapped too! (Non-platinum, but they'll still last well past the 60,000 mile specified plug changing.)
Ditch the Bosch plugs. For whatever reason, all non Denso / NGK plugs give Nippon-Denso ignitions fits. It may not make a differance now, it may not make a differance next year, but sometime between the time you put them in & change them 60,000 miles later; the car *will* start to run like a 1 leg pig.
Just get the cheapest Denso, or NGK plug you can find. Normally one or the other is on sale at autostores for $1-$1.50 a plug. They always are here. They come pre-gapped too! (Non-platinum, but they'll still last well past the 60,000 mile specified plug changing.)
JennyDee
08-06-2005, 04:23 PM
The Bosh plugs might be a contributing factor as to my current problem since I have been running them for 30K in the Camry. I picked up a set of Denso standard plugs and will do the change out.
TY
Jenny
Ewwww!
Ditch the Bosch plugs. For whatever reason, all non Denso / NGK plugs give Nippon-Denso ignitions fits. It may not make a differance now, it may not make a differance next year, but sometime between the time you put them in & change them 60,000 miles later; the car *will* start to run like a 1 leg pig.
Just get the cheapest Denso, or NGK plug you can find. Normally one or the other is on sale at autostores for $1-$1.50 a plug. They always are here. They come pre-gapped too! (Non-platinum, but they'll still last well past the 60,000 mile specified plug changing.)
TY
Jenny
Ewwww!
Ditch the Bosch plugs. For whatever reason, all non Denso / NGK plugs give Nippon-Denso ignitions fits. It may not make a differance now, it may not make a differance next year, but sometime between the time you put them in & change them 60,000 miles later; the car *will* start to run like a 1 leg pig.
Just get the cheapest Denso, or NGK plug you can find. Normally one or the other is on sale at autostores for $1-$1.50 a plug. They always are here. They come pre-gapped too! (Non-platinum, but they'll still last well past the 60,000 mile specified plug changing.)
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