Universal door lock Actuator will work on 2001

:ebay Item number. 5795165295 Universal power door lock Actuators..
I DID SOME RESEARCH A WHILE BACK ON THE POWER DOOR LOCK ACTUATORS. In some cases the front door locks would not work half the time or not at all. in my case the pasanger side stop working all together.. The door lock actuactor was too pricey and would most likely go out again.. The universal type is a cheap replacement that works really well. Location is the key and is not hard to do..I did mine in about 2 hours but would have been done sooner if I did not have to scout my location and plan my action. On the pasanger side the wires are easy to get to I spliced right in leaving the old actuator in place and still pluged in.. There is a square hole in the area along with a big opening and a small hole. the small square is were I put the actuator.. The wires that control it are red and light blue from the winstar.. I will try to take pics later, but I just wanted to say it will work.. my next project is the drivers side.. It works half the time, and will again leave every thing in place just add the uni actuator... Keep in mind clearance issues with the window if you have it high enough and close too the inside wall were you can see it through the square hole you will have no trouble.. The Ebay item number I have shown is for 4 actuators but I just put that there to show what type I used...You can get what you need,, one is about 8.00 with shipping if your a lucky bidder... Hope this helps try to have pics soon.. Gary :smile:

Good job. My driver's side doesn't like to lock (but will unlock, wierd). I might go this route.

Good job. My driver's side doesn't like to lock (but will unlock, wierd). I might go this route.
Mine started like that then would do it every now again then would'nt lock at all or unlock then nothing but noise and no action you could always see the attempt by the moving door rod other than that nothing else. my drivers side works like that as well but will, when it wants too.. every now in again it works but not when you want it too like during a thunder storm..LOL.. So the drivers side is my next project.. I got the camera ready but its not digital so hopfully the film will turn out good.. or may break down and by a better digi cam this week-end.. the other I have is junk..

Look forward to the pics. When you say you left everything hooked up as is, did you leave the original actuator still hooked up to the lock rod? When I replaced my actuator recently it had a lot of drag from age and built up grime. I would think that might affect the life of the new universal actuator if it has to move the old actuator assembly as well as the lock. Might be worthwhile to leave it in place but disconnect where it attaches to the lock rod.

Then again if its only $9 you could buy a bunch of replacements and not worry about it.

got the pics need to know were to post them. Pics wont download here.
As for the auto lock feature I will explain that I need to further study this..

You can post them here:

http://groups.msn.com/FordWindstar

Then add links in a post here to the photo pages.

Got to that site, signed up but cant find were to upload pics ..easy on this site but my pic size are 1mb or more. I can email if some one pm's me.. Also u think i could downsize my photo but not to sure how or if it can be done. I guess I will do more thinking... LETS GET R done..

If you download Picasa from Google (free) it will resize your pictures for you for emailing. It is a great program for handling digital pictures and the price is right :-) Tim

http://windstarlock.blogspot.com
This is the site where I posted the pics and gives some info.. I have more pics that lewis form this forum is helping me with. I hope these work and will try to add more once i get it all figured out.. Gary
http://doorlock2.blogspot.com

Btt

I just wanted to post that for 7 months now I have not had any problems with the universal actuators I added on after the windstars front door locks failed. I still think this is an easy less expensive way to fix the power door lock problems.Hope this helps..

I just wanted to post that for 7 months now I have not had any problems with the universal actuators I added on after the windstars front door locks failed. I still think this is an easy less expensive way to fix the power door lock problems.Hope this helps..
Gary,

I am planning on replacing the actuators in the front doors, and I was very glad to see your post. Autozone wants $45 for each actuator and I need 2 meaning a total of $90 which isn’t horrible, but if I can do it for $15 that is obviously much better :-D.

I was reading through some of your posts on this topic and it wasn’t clear to me why you left the old actuator in place. Would you mind explaining this?


Thanks,
Chris

Hi Gary - awesome post and pictures -- thanks very much for taking the time and effort.

On my 2000 Windstar three out of the 5 locks (two front and right rear slider) are either on their way out (and getting worse week by week) or not working more than a slight quiver. I was getting a little anxious at the price to fix all these actuators until I came across your post.

I found what looks like a very similar actuator on ebay but wanted to run it by you anyways:

Ebay#: 9708714808

Like the previous poster I would also like to know the reason for keeping the old actuator connected physically and electrically.

And on the following picture on your blog it appears as if the mount strip has been bent somewhere behind the sheet metal. Was that required or is it just an optical illusion??

thanks again

Ian.

Gary,

I am planning on replacing the actuators in the front doors, and I was very glad to see your post. Autozone wants $45 for each actuator and I need 2 meaning a total of $90 which isn’t horrible, but if I can do it for $15 that is obviously much better :-D.

I was reading through some of your posts on this topic and it wasn’t clear to me why you left the old actuator in place. Would you mind explaining this?


Thanks,
Chris
Now on my 2001 the actuator is part of the linkgage and would have been more of a problem to take them out also the actuators are part of a series curcuit so i was a little worried if I took them out I would have added extra work. This was a simple wire splice, so in other words the old actuators still have power going to them but they dont work so the other actuators kick in all of the work.. And every power door lock option still works correctly even keyless entry... I was worried if i pulled the old actuator out I would have had to modify the whole set up some way.. Leaving everything in place was the easiest way to fix my problem. The reason why i wanted to give an update.. If I had an issue with the electrics such as blowing fues and or relays this would have not have been such a great Idea. But I had NO problems....what so ever and evrything works Great.. Just make sure you keep your power window clearance in mind. before you put your panel back on test the window for clearance and make sure the new universal type actuator is in tight so it wont come loose..hope this helps.. Gary

Hi Gary - awesome post and pictures -- thanks very much for taking the time and effort.

On my 2000 Windstar three out of the 5 locks (two front and right rear slider) are either on their way out (and getting worse week by week) or not working more than a slight quiver. I was getting a little anxious at the price to fix all these actuators until I came across your post.

I found what looks like a very similar actuator on ebay but wanted to run it by you anyways:

Ebay#: 9708714808

Like the previous poster I would also like to know the reason for keeping the old actuator connected physically and electrically.

And on the following picture on your blog it appears as if the mount strip has been bent somewhere behind the sheet metal. Was that required or is it just an optical illusion??

thanks again

Ian.
Yep those will work shipping a little high.... I had to cut but not bend the strip it may have bent a little because of the stamped metal door but no 45 degree bends or antything like that.. Ohh I think you are speaking of the crooked peace. The big bolt you see in the middle of the picture is the window guide bolt or harware bolt for the power window assembly. I used it as a monting place for the universal actuator.. and the strip for the acuator bracket .. the strips holes were to small so I cut one side of the strip so the it would fit and snuged the bolt down around it for a secure mounting .. I explained below why I left the old actuators on.. It was easier to leave them in place and also the universal actuators 2 wire set up is open closed and I did not want to mess around with the 3 or 4 wire set up and also the old actuators are part of the linkgage.. All power door lock options work fine, even keyless entry.. Hope this helps.. Gary

2 Power Door Lock Actuators ONLY $6.49
Item number: 5838004544
This may be a little cheaper about 14.00 for both doors..If needed both front doors I also think they will work on the rear slidding doors have not had any problems with the back sliding doors yet.....

Add me to the list of those you have braved the universal actuator installation….and succeeded!! I have a 2000 Windstar LX and yesterday, I replaced both the power door lock actuators in both the front doors and everything is working great. Generally speaking I followed Gary’s lead (and the pictures on his blog) on how to do it. Here are the highlights from my experience, let me know if you have any questions. 1)I bought 4 actuators (I only needed 2) off eBay for $21 delivered.
2)Following Gary’s lead, I left the old actuators in place, but I did disconnect the power source from them and connected it to the new actuators (Gary’s didn’t do this…he spliced the line).
3)I used only once screw to hold the new mounting strip to the car (same bolt and location as Gary)
4)I used only once screw in the top hole of the actuator to attach it to the mounting strip… for more stability I wrapped electrical tap around the bottom of the actuator and mounting strip.
5)I accidentally attached the wires backward the first time, which made the thing go up when it should have been going down…make sure you test yours before you seal everything up :banghead:
The first door (passenger) took about 1 ½ hours (as I figured everything out). The second door (driver’s side) took about 45 min.

Chris

Good Job!!! .. If you have problems with the electrical tape you can still add the other screw. Or better yet.Wire ties for extra support... QUOTE=cao226]Add me to the list of those you have braved the universal actuator installation….and succeeded!! I have a 2000 Windstar LX and yesterday, I replaced both the power door lock actuators in both the front doors and everything is working great. Generally speaking I followed Gary’s lead (and the pictures on his blog) on how to do it. Here are the highlights from my experience, let me know if you have any questions. 1)I bought 4 actuators (I only needed 2) off eBay for $21 delivered.
2)Following Gary’s lead, I left the old actuators in place, but I did disconnect the power source from them and connected it to the new actuators (Gary’s didn’t do this…he spliced the line).
3)I used only once screw to hold the new mounting strip to the car (same bolt and location as Gary)
4)I used only once screw in the top hole of the actuator to attach it to the mounting strip… for more stability I wrapped electrical tap around the bottom of the actuator and mounting strip.
5)I accidentally attached the wires backward the first time, which made the thing go up when it should have been going down…make sure you test yours before you seal everything up :banghead:
The first door (passenger) took about 1 ½ hours (as I figured everything out). The second door (driver’s side) took about 45 min.

Chris[/QUOTE]

What is the blog address for directions in installing the universal actuator? I need to do the same thing for my 2000 Windstar. Getting it ready for sale since it is only getting 15 MPG.

http://windstarlock.blogspot.com
This is the site where I posted the pics and gives some info.. I have more pics that lewis form this forum is helping me with. I hope these work and will try to add more once i get it all figured out.. Gary
http://doorlock2.blogspot.com


Thanks for the pics and the wire configuration. Works great. It's a little noisier than original. Maybe has something to do with having only 1 screw holding it onto the bracket. Otherwise, this was a lot cheaper than having the dealer replace the unit.

I'm having a similar problem, I think, with our Windstar 2001. The remote wont' unlock on occasion, and when that happens usually I can use the key in the door and unlock the van from the driver's door. Today, the buttons inside the doors won't work either, so the only door I can unlock is the driver's door, with the key. This is a huge problem for us, and I would appreciate any insight anyone can give.

I'm having a similar problem, I think, with our Windstar 2001. The remote wont' unlock on occasion, and when that happens usually I can use the key in the door and unlock the van from the driver's door. Today, the buttons inside the doors won't work either, so the only door I can unlock is the driver's door, with the key. This is a huge problem for us, and I would appreciate any insight anyone can give.
But it should still be unlocking the rear doors right. Does the door unlock/lock controls unlock the other doors except the fronts??? Just making sure you dont have a switch problem or relay problem. But if all other door locks work with the remote and door controls then you most likley have the door lock actuator problem.. It not a hard job just splicing 2 wires together and running the universal actuators in the right spot to mount.. I have a blog with the info, but if you need further info please let me know.. I think its about or getting close to a year with trouble free service on my universal door locks now. The very first one i did I had to remount but took 10min. The one on the blog I did has never had an issue.

I am also having this problem with my 2000 3.8 at both front doors. I've just purchased 2 of these universal actuators and will attempt to do the fix when the weather gets a little nicer. I'll let you know how it goes. Thank you for taking the time to post your ideas on this forum as well for the pictures you provided.

Btt

I finished installing both actuators and everything went well, thank you Gary for all your help. I would suggest using a test light as I had a bit of a problem on the passenger side door; the color of the wires were different than the driver side. driver side door= red and yellow but on the passenger the yellow was for the door ajar. this drove me crazy since kept trying to connect it to the actuator and it woundnt work so a word to the wise; use a test light before you splice into any wire. My passenger door ended up being red and blue.

I am having the same problem on my 2001 Windstar with the actuators but I question that four have gone bad at the same time. Both front doors and both sliding doors work intermittently, at best. I installed a new actuator as outlined in this thread, starting with the passenger door, but this one is not functioning when supporting the existing lock rod, or even by itself.

On my van I have 4 wires running to the lock motor (red, blue, black, and yellow/green) and the new actuator has two wires (blue and green). I attached the new actuator green to the existing red wire, and the new actuator blue to the existing yellow/green. I just tested these for current by activating the lock/unlock button and checking for current with my volt meter. Both connections showed current when I hit the lock, neither connection showed current when I hit the unlock. I also cut into the insulation on the red and black wires but and neither of those showed current while locking or unlocking.

Now, up to this point I failed to check the locks with the keyless remote. Interesting find when I used it. I tried unlocking the doors and with the first push the interior lights came on the driver's door tried to unlock, the second push caused the rest of the doors to try and unlock, and for kicks-n-grins I pushed it a third time and all locks tried to unlock along with the horn giving a short burst. The horn blew over and over with subsequent attempts to unlock until I locked the doors. Then, the process started all over as I noted.

Thoughts?

Now as for the 1st push on unlock,drivers door only unlock is normal. 2nd push all doors should unlock.. When locking 1st push locks doors. 2nd push lets you know all doors are locked by horn short beep, if you still hit lock after that it will do the same thing. Now for your rear door lock problem. Check the for metal contact pin points where the door meets with the other contact pins. This controls your rear speakers and door locks ETC.. This is on your rear sliding door and door frame.Take an eraser or contact cleaner and clean them..Did you check your relays first for the door locks?? #6 relay inside fuse box is one to check also # 8 fuse..

I failed to mention I cleaned the contact pins as my first step for checking the locks; it obviously never helped. Just checkd fueses 6 & 8, those are fine. Checked all 6 relays and they check fine (I tested by the instructions in my Hayes repair manual). Keyless seems to be working fine today, no more horn when unlocking the doors. I also checked fuse 18, saw it referenced in one of the threads. It checked fine too.

I want to check fuse 106 in the power distribution box because it feeds the #2 relay inside (accessory fuse delay relay), but I can't figure how to get the lid off. It looks like there are 4-6 clips. Is this right? I removed the front left head light to create more room but still no luck. Ideas?

Got the cover off the fuse/relay box in the engine compartment. Checked all the mini-fuses and replaced a couple that had corroded blade connectors (none of which have anything to do with the locks - :disappoin ). I still want to check relay 106 (it is not a fuse) but I'm not sure if I can just pull that straight out or if I need a special tool. Getting frustrated and don't want to break anything and cause myself yet more work.

I also used the keyless remote which of course locks and unlocks the doors intermittently, but much more consistently than the door switches. :banghead:

My Haynes repair manual (1995 - 2003) shows a Master Lock Relay Control on page 12-43, any ideas on checking this component? Not sure what else to do.

Sorry you went through the actuator/motor job and seeing how it works better with the remote than the door button makes me think you have a problem in that area. The engine fuse box I don't think has any thing to do with locks, but the inside fuse box does #6 relay and #8 fuse in the inside fuse box. The master door lock relay If I remember right is under the dash somewhere Just can't recall
I will take a look at mine and see what I find. OK went out pulled the stereo and still can't track the relay.. I seem to hear the relay click or think thats what i am hearing, more toward the fuse box area but just can't remember where i found it before..Or if it does have one. I did check a relay though.. I am stumped on that one..

Gary - I can't believe you pulled your radio and searched for the relay. I love you guys on this forum.

Now, after going through the nut-roll of installing one actuator for no benefit was fine by me. It was my dogged determination that there had to be something electrical wrong with the locks that lead me down the primrose path. :shakehead

So, there I was about 3 hours ago having spent oh about 7 hours on this lock problem and then it hit me that I had not completed a basic check. We all know its best to check fuses first, I kind of did that. But when I removed the interior wall-covers and exposed the door lock mechanisms I noticed they were all gunked up. Like I said, 7 hours into this it hit me that I never cleaned the lock mechanisms. These are my two sliding doors and the passenger door. I cleaned them up and put in a heavy dose of powdered graphite lubricant on every pivot point and voila the locks work fine.

You know, there is something to be said about preventative maintenance. Thanks all for the advice and the help. I am keeping my actuators because I know what will happen if I get rid of them now. :smokin:

The radio took every bit of 3 seconds to pull out maybe another 5 To look for a relay that we may not have on 2001. But I felt like I should at least look. I do have the removal tools for the radio.. An thats Great if it only needed lube. Maybe now if someone has an issue they can try that first before digging into the job..I would have not guess on that. Glad you got it fixed. So if you do have problem later on you should now know how to fix it as far as adding a new actuator. Gary

I want to THANK Gary for all the advice here and the blog photos, and others for posting as well! I am absolutely non-mechanical and completed this repair to both the driver and passenger side doors, and it went pretty much exactly as you described. It took me around 3 hours for the passenger side, being completely clueless and terrified, and around 30 minutes for the driver's side. This is my new "best-use-of-the-internet-ever" story.

My mechanic quoted the following: 2 door lock actuators for $96.44 each, actuator latch @ $28.42, switch $21.52, labor $198.00. Total of $440.82.

My cost was 2 actuators from eBay at $3.40 each, plus $9.30 shipping. Total of $16.10.

Regarding the process, I also cut the wires and spliced them to the actuator wires, and left the old actuator in place. I didn't disconnect the car battery before cutting the wires. My wires were red and yellow on the driver's side, and red and light blue on the passenger's side. I also found that the holes on the bracket for mounting the actuator was too narrow for the pre-existing bolt on the Windstar which we use to mount (per Gary's photos), so I would recommend drilling these out a little wider in a few spots before starting. I nearly ruined the threading on the bolt. I also used just a single screw to tighten the actuator to the bracket.

I would suggest the following order after getting the door off:

1. Widen the bracket in a few spots with a drill so the bolt on the Windstar will fit through it
1. Set the bracket vertically as Gary describes using that single bolt on the Windstar
2. Mount the actuator to the bracket using a single screw. There's really no room to get both mounting screws in place. Before tightening, be sure the wires from the actuator will reach the point where they need to be spliced. I didn't have much room to spare. Mine ended up positioned like Gary's "finished" shot.
3. Tighten the acutator's long metal rod to the car's door lock rod using the hardware (clamp & screws) that comes with the actuator.
4. Cut the wires, and spice. Red from car to green on actuator; yellow (or light blue) on car to blue on actuator.
5. Test the actuator using the door lock switch on theother side of the car, to be sure it works, and to be sure the actuator isn't blocked or unable to achieve the open and closed positions
6. As Gary noted, test the power window to be sure there's clearance. It was pretty close call for me, but no problems.

Good luck! Thanks again Gary.

Im glad it worked out for you.. A long while ago something told me this would work. Just finding the location on where to put them for the easiest install. There are many ways to install them, but for pictures would have been a challenge. The wires to me were the hard part. I did not wont to end up with a bigger problem in the end. Good thing was everything worked and did not cut the wires. I just spliced mine in.. I know a few have and thats fine as well.In the end it may be better because of the old actuators decides to short out it may affect the others..As of now my door locks are still working and have had no problems.. I use these same actuators on cars that don't even have power door locks.Who wanted power locks. So I knew they should hold up over time.. The Great thing about these actuators is they are so universal you can mount them upside down but will need to reverse wires for that type of install and mount them at angles as long as it does not bind. But over all there is really nothing to be worried about on this install. As for the wires if you do make a mistake you can always correct it.Or replace a fuse at the worse.. I don't for see anything major happening to the wire if a little mistake is made.. I am really GLAD this is helping. I just wanted to help people save money.. Gary...

2 yrs now and still no problems... Gary..:grinyes: :popcorn: :smokin:

I am really thankful to garync1 for his photos which helped me to venture out to install the universal actuators for 98 Windstar. Got 2 actuators from ebay for $ 12.95 delivered.

During installation, I came across some minor issues and would like to list it here.
1. I took out the connector from the existing actuator, which made splicing easier and I could test the polarity and connect the new actuator wires easily. Be careful about the routing while joining the actuator cable to the wiring harness. The actuator has to be inside and the wires should be coming out from the right hole, otherwise you will have to redo it. ( I ended up redoing it). After the new actuator were installed, I plugged the connector back. Connected the blue form actuator to red on the harness and green from actuator to red with black lines on the harness.

2. I enlarged the bottom hole on the bracket beforehand so that it can be bolted to the bolt holding the guide rail for the window glass, as shown in gary's picture. However, when I unbolted the rail, it came loose from the clip at top and I had some trouble to get it back in the slot which is up somewhere and one can not see it properly. I suggest to somehow support it while you have unbolted it and trying to slip the bracket between the guide rail and the body.

3. I mounted the actuator with only one screw (top hole of the actuator to 2nd slot on the bracket from top) and taped it to the bracket at an angle so that it is in line with the vertical rod.

4. I found another hole to which the wiring harness was attached with a pin and which I had removed in order to get more slack in the harness. This hole perfectly matched with the bracket top hole and I used the folded sheet quick nut from the hardware kit to put a screw at this spot too.

5. While bolting the actuator rod to the vertical rod, I used my wife's nail polish on the screws so that they done become loose due to vibrations.

I got pictures of the installations and can send it to any one interested or can post it somewhere.

Thanks to this forum again.

Btt

Thank you for posting this! I have a 2000 SEL and both of the front door locks had completely quit working. I followed the instructions and completed both sides in about 2 hours.

2000 Windstar SEL wire colors
Driver side front door:
RED connects to the GREEN wire on the new actuator.
YELLOW connects to the BLUE wire on the new actuator.
Passenger side door:
RED connects to the GREEN wire on the new actuator.
BLUE connects to the BLUE wire on the new actuator.

I need to do this on the driver rear door as well. Does anyone have any pictures or descriptions on how to do this?

I am really glad everything has been working well for every one. I am also glad every one adds to this post. I will also add this will work on most Other Fords with electric door locks.I notice Ford Exploers have this issue as well.. NOW wires and mounting will differ..

has anyone attempted this on one of their rear sliding doors? both my driver's side doors are acting up (driver's door and rear slider). The front door is clearly an actuator problem... So I'm gonna follow Gary's now well-trodden path for that one.

The rear door, tho, is a little different. at times it won't unlock, even when you try to pull up the lock manually - the rod is stuck in the locked position and won't move at all. Some times you can play with the handle on the outside of the car while reaching inside and pulling up on the lock, and it will pop up. but other times nothing I can do seems to work. Then mysteriously a few days later it will just start working normally, with no intervention.

Any ideas on this sliding door lock issue?

Not being as brave as you guys ... today I used the Ford replacement part (6L3Z-25218A43-AA) for my '99's driver's door power latch actuator. It took me more time than you .... am I just slow or what???

Just for info ... the Ford actuator is redesigned ... smaller. Don't know if its any better tho...

Approx $40 each, so you guys are saving good money.

I took the chance to clean up the contacts in the driver's window switches ... using a small file and some 600 grit metal abrasive paper. Then filled all the little contacts with electrical silicone paste.

cleveman, I just went through this recently. My sliding door actuator on the passenger side was acting the same way. Assumed it was the actuator going bad, but once I got in there saw the voltage was not consistent. I think the actuator was good to replace while in there, but there were other issues.

First the power gets to the actuator via the pad and plunger connection. It may look clean, but can easily be the culprit. It really needs some serious rubbing to get a good connection. Also I used electrical contact cleaner on the electrical connector on the back of the plunger and the connection to the actuator, the plunger connection did look like it needed it.

Those steps have fixed my issue. If you think about it the intermittent working makes sense as the connection is provided by the pad and plunger setup which connects each time you close the door.

As far as the rear doors I would look into the contacts like above posted.. Im sure the uni-actuators would work. But unless you see there is no contact power issues then I would not attempt just yet. The only two I have done on my van are the front ones. I had an issue but only miner on one of the slide doors and that was the little metal door contacts. A pencil eraser did the trick as far as cleaning them..

cleveman, I just went through this recently. My sliding door actuator on the passenger side was acting the same way. Assumed it was the actuator going bad, but once I got in there saw the voltage was not consistent. I think the actuator was good to replace while in there, but there were other issues.

First the power gets to the actuator via the pad and plunger connection. It may look clean, but can easily be the culprit. It really needs some serious rubbing to get a good connection. Also I used electrical contact cleaner on the electrical connector on the back of the plunger and the connection to the actuator, the plunger connection did look like it needed it.

Those steps have fixed my issue. If you think about it the intermittent working makes sense as the connection is provided by the pad and plunger setup which connects each time you close the door.

thanks for the replies, lewis and gary... I'll try cleaning the connections.

I have a problem, tho - i can't get the driver's side sliding door to open for over a week now. in the past it would magically start working after a day or 2 - not so lately. I cannot unlock the door with the automatic locks or even pull up the lock manually (it feels like it's being held in the lock position, maybe a "safety feature"?).

Any suggestions on how to get the darn thing open? do I have to take off the door panel? if so, another stupid question - how? all I see is 1 screw just behind the inside door handle. Once I get it open, what should I do to release the lock?

you guys are wonderful - thx much.

talk about jumping from the frying pan into the fire...

now i REALLY have a mess.

I got into the sliding door and poked around until I could get the door to open. good so far.

Then I cleaned the electrical contacts on the door jam as suggested, and caused some kind of electrical problem. the remote keyless entry doesn't work at all, and when I press the unlock button on the driver's side door, I occasionally get a little attempt from one of the rear locks to open, but no other lock responds.

And HERE'S the kicker! the anti-theft system has now locked down the entire car - I assume because it thinks its still locked???? so I've gone from a non-functional door to a non-functional car.

Any ideas? from looking at the manual it looks like fuse 6 might be the culprit, but I pull it out and it looks ok. unfortunately, it's Easter Sunday - so finding an open store to replace that fuse is likely NOT happening.

ok - I've ruled out a fuse problem... took every one of them out and tested them - both in the pasenger cabin fuse box and in the power distribution module. all good.

had the battery disconnected for about 45 mins hoping that will magically do some good - nada.

so the power doorlocks are completely dead and when I try to start the car the THEFT light flashes and a racket comes from under the hood.

I fear there is a tow truck in my future tomorrow morning.

I am convinced that the anti-theft systems are far more a nuisance for owners than for thieves.

FWIW - just to update my situation... It was the battery. Apparently I drained it to around 10-11V (I guess when I sprayed the door-jamb contacts with the contact cleaner it must have arc'ed or something?) - which was enough to keep the door lights on and the anti-theft system active enough to be a red herring, but not enough to fire up the engine. Once the friendly guy from AAA convinced me to try a jump instead of a tow, we're back in business.

Now back to the damn sliding door lock issue! cleaning the contacts didn't seem to help. when I was in the door I noticed that is an upside-down-L-shaped slot that the lock mechanism moves through - when the lock is down, the mechanism is up, in the corner of the upside down L (and when you pull the handle it has no resistance as it slides across the L and doesn't open the door). When the lock is up, the mechanism is down at the bottom of the vertical part of the upside-down L and when you pull the handle there is therefore resistance and the door opens.

That's mega-confusing, but if you've been in there you'll know what I'm talking about.

Anyway, what's happening is that when the lock is down, and the mechanism is at the top of the upside-down L, it works fine when it's tucked right into corner. However sometimes it's actually halfway across the horizontal portion - so it's locked but you can't pull the lock up to unlock it and neither can the actuator. Seems to me it should never be in this position and so I'm trying to figure out what causes it to get stuck in this in-between state.

Unless somebody has the magic answer, my next steps is to begin dismantling the lock mechanism to see if I can figure out why it's getting into this position in the first place.

That isn't the child proof lock is it?

That isn't the child proof lock is it?

I had the same thought - but I don't think so. It seems to happen whether the child-proof lock is engaged or not. Also, on the other (functional) door the lock never gets stuck in the locked position, even when the child-proof switch is engaged. It looks like the child-proof function simply makes the inside handle non-functional, but you can still pull up on the lock.

Having said that, tho, I haven't been able to reliably re-create the issue (ie every time I do x then y then z it happens), so I can't rule anything out at this point.

I had the same thought - but I don't think so. It seems to happen whether the child-proof lock is engaged or not. Also, on the other (functional) door the lock never gets stuck in the locked position, even when the child-proof switch is engaged. It looks like the child-proof function simply makes the inside handle non-functional, but you can still pull up on the lock.

Having said that, tho, I haven't been able to reliably re-create the issue (ie every time I do x then y then z it happens), so I can't rule anything out at this point.
The child proofer removes control to the door handle. Nothing electronic there.. Check your linkages rods etc. But it kinda sounds like the Actuator is diein and only moviing it to the half way point.

If these things are solenoids, they are not going to get any better. I've not torn into one of these yet, but if Tsauce is right about it being your actuator, it would explain your symptoms. Over time, solenoids can swell as they croak, causing your lock knobs and connected parts to act stuck and this would also explain if they only move partially. Eventually, they probably will croak completely burning up by trying to move an immovable object in it when turning it on.

just wanted to add my kudos to this thread, performed this on my windstar tonight and everything went so smoothly. 1.5 hours for the drivers door, 25 min for the passengers.
i wouldnt have thought it this or tried it without this thread and pictures to help me along
thanks again gary

just wanted to add my kudos to this thread, performed this on my windstar tonight and everything went so smoothly. 1.5 hours for the drivers door, 25 min for the passengers.
i wouldnt have thought it this or tried it without this thread and pictures to help me along
thanks again gary


Again Im glad it worked for you as well.. What was your final cost.? If you don't mind me asking.. Gary

i had bought the same universal actuators you used off of ebay for around $30(including shipping)
might be a coincidence but the van's battery seems to have kicked the can right after installing these. i had unhook the existing actuators and tied the wires right into the new ones so i cant see how that would have changed any of the voltage requirements of the system
anyone else had this problem?

Solenoid isn't the problem on the sliding door, IMO. I was in mine today for the same reason, but had a different cause. However, there is a spring on the backside of the mechanism that should pull that pin over into the corner. 6 Torx bolts and the whole thing comes out. The outer door handle, inner front & rear cables can be unsnapped so that you can clear the door. Remove the wire harness to the actuator before pulling too far.

I STILL haven't done the front door actuators. :)

Almost going on three years with no issues with the universal actuators. I keep this post alive with results of my door locks over the past few years.. Keep in mind this will work on most Fords and other electric powered door locks. It could work with vacuum type as well just a little more work would have to be done.

There have been some posts on this thread regarding the lock mechanism on the sliding doors so I'll add my 2 cents. Driver's side slider lock would not always unlock with actuator and would sometimes get stuck. As per other posters, I removed mechanism from door, cleaned and re-lubed. To pull plastic trim off of door remove two screws, one at door handle and the other at the aft bottom corner. Unscrew the door lock knob and pull trim from door, held on by clips. The mechanism torx screws were also treated with a thread lock, use a good torx socket to remove they're stubborn. When looking at the pad/plunger contact at the door, two wires are for the actuator and the other two for the door speaker, so if your sound quality is bad clean the contacts. Reassembled and haven't had a problem with lock yet.

Hey, I am new here, and I found the forum after fixing rear AC problem and now attacking the front passenger side door lock problem that has not worked for years. The switch unlocks and locks other doors, just not it's own. Driver side door works fine, and it operates all switches except for the passenger door. It works manually. I opened the trim today, and tried to trace the problem. I am no mechanic, mind you. I thought based on these posts it is bad actuator, but I have no idea where it's located. I traced the cables from the switch to the lock mechanism (I guess that's where the bad part is), but I could not get it out even after unscrewing 3 screws on the side of the door and taking off rod connecting to outside handle. The rod from manual lock still connects to it, and I don't know how to disconnect it. So my question is this: where am I going wrong? What exactly should I do on my 98? Based on these posts, it appears to me nobody bothered to get the lock mechanism out, or am I the only one that cannot get it out? Thanks for your help.

Hey, I am new here, and I found the forum after fixing rear AC problem and now attacking the front passenger side door lock problem that has not worked for years. The switch unlocks and locks other doors, just not it's own. Driver side door works fine, and it operates all switches except for the passenger door. It works manually. I opened the trim today, and tried to trace the problem. I am no mechanic, mind you. I thought based on these posts it is bad actuator, but I have no idea where it's located. I traced the cables from the switch to the lock mechanism (I guess that's where the bad part is), but I could not get it out even after unscrewing 3 screws on the side of the door and taking off rod connecting to outside handle. The rod from manual lock still connects to it, and I don't know how to disconnect it. So my question is this: where am I going wrong? What exactly should I do on my 98? Based on these posts, it appears to me nobody bothered to get the lock mechanism out, or am I the only one that cannot get it out? Thanks for your help.


That was one issue I had when mine went out and seeing how mine was a 2001 and the stock actuators seemed to last only 4 or 5 yrs and at the time they were pricey.. Its an all in one mechanism. So that made it even harder. So I thought the universal actuators were a better option. Easy to do and cheap.. I am glad however they lasted this long and will last longer. Just did not want to have to pay they dealer 600.00 bucks at the time to replace them. I think the price has dropped since then.. Seeing yours is a 98 makes me think you had better door lock motors.. But yes they are in there tight. I think there has been a few who have replaced them. Its a linkage and a motor all in one..